======== Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking Subject: Re: ? about giant lathe (Noble & Lund 96"x30') From: Robert Bastow Date: Tue, 25 Aug 1998 05:57:22 GMT -------- As big lathes go this is a baby (well mid-range at best) I spent part of my apprenticeship running a monster 108" swing dual bed ,dual carriage, roll turning lathe, that would take 48 feet and 90 tons between centers. Speeds ranged from 1 minute per rev to 12 rev per minute. It took a crane and about an hour to change the position of the four face plate jaws. Drive was DC and all controls were on a multi button pendant...At one rev/ minute jogging speed you learned to true up a job in two revolutions or less!! The carriages each had a staircase up about eight feet from ground level, then there was another staircase up to the top slide which had about twelve feet of travel and could be set up to cut threads from 8 tpi to about 12" pitch!! One of the fun jobs was screw cutting the cable ways on eight foot diameter x 14 foot long hoist winding drums. These were a half round groove for a 1 1/2" dia. cable. Half the drum was left hand thread the other half right hand pitch. Thats a half round form tool 1 1/2 inches across cutting full width!..Screw-cutting!! On some larger (longer) jobs you would have both carriageways machining at once..that was fun!!! Tools varied from HSS to carbide inserts and even some early cermets for chilled iron rolls. Average insert size was 1 1/2" square x 1/2" thick and held in tool holders up to six inches square. These were in turn held down by a couple of huge straps with four nuts on each about six inches across flats. The wrench was about eight feet long and had to be brought up on the crane. I remember one job on a huge steam turbine rotor where we strapped the head and turret from a bridgeport mill onto the tool post to mill a key way. This type of machine is used daily in heavy engineering works, steel mills, shipyards arsenals etc. and their work includes the aforementioned steam turbines, hydro electric generators, steel mill rolls, gun barrels, monster reduction gears for aircraft carriers, oil tankers etc. I spent an interesting and informative six months running that machine and then went on to a 42 foot diameter vertical boring machine and thence to a 24 foot wide x 48 foot stroke planer. One thing I learned was to plan the job ahead..mistakes were big and expensive!! The other thing I learned was that I didn't want to spend the rest of my life doing that...I still have one shoulder almost an inch lower than the other and now, in my fifties I hurt all over, every day as a direct result of the sheer "horse work" of running machines like that while I was in my teens. ======== Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking Subject: Re: Little Elevator/Big Lathe From: Robert Bastow Date: Tue, 25 Aug 1998 06:14:14 GMT -------- The Millwrights,(riggers) if they are worth their salt, will find this one a breeze! Standard practice is to drop the elevator to the basement, open the doors and hoist the machine up the shaft..on end if necessary. Yes they do drop them on occasion!! I saw the very first Herbert CNC lathe dropped four stories..made a right mess of the elevator. They may decide it is easier to go up the outside with a crane and scoot it through the window. My advice is to leave it to the professionals..if only for insurance purposes. I put a Smart and Brown Model A Toolrom lathe into my (then) townhouse basement by dropping it vertically through a 24"x30" hole I cut in the floor right inside the front door. I built two custon "A" frfames out of 4x4 lumber, one for outside and one for inside. The lathebed was split from the base, which was the heaviest piece. Total weight close to a ton. Myself and two helpers had the hole cut, lathe in and the hole buttoned up with carpet relaid inside an hour..before "She Who Must Be Obeyed" came home from the mall. I never did tell her how I got the lathe in there. OBTY it came out the same way in even less time..we were experts by then!! Robert Bastow ======== Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking Subject: Re: looking for 52100 alloy From: Robert Bastow Date: Tue, 25 Aug 1998 06:21:26 GMT -------- You'll be real lucky to find it outside of custom rolled mill lots. When and if you do you'll have a bunch of knifemakers lining up (or running all over you). 52100 alloy is a specialised steel for bearings and a favorite with some knifemakers. They have to forge blades out from large balls, rollers or races. Good luck. Robert Bastow ======== Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking Subject: Re: Bolt, thread and tap sizes reference From: Robert Bastow Date: Tue, 25 Aug 1998 06:27:14 GMT -------- What you need are "ZEUS" charts ....standard in any machinist's box. Dunno where you'd find them but when you do..let me know..I need to replace mine. Starrett do a single page chart too..try a distributor. Robert Bastow ======== Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking Subject: Re: #2 MT collets / Hex and Square From: Robert Bastow Date: Tue, 25 Aug 1998 06:33:17 GMT -------- Hardinge will make hex., square, or any other shape you want in 2MT, 3MT 3C 5C and B&S. You might try Myford in England..2MT collets are their standard...they have a web address..try a search. Robert Bastow ======== Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking Subject: Re: how to bolt together to S-section I-beams From: Robert Bastow Date: Tue, 25 Aug 1998 06:39:36 GMT -------- You use taper washers..they are available from where you buy your steel. Don't bother to ask at Ace Hardware..they will look at you funny. Robert Bastow ======== Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking Subject: Re: aligning holes in tube From: Robert Bastow Date: Fri, 28 Aug 1998 04:34:30 GMT -------- The good 'ole eyeball will never let you down. Assuming that you are using a drill press and know how to align and clamp down a vee block to said drill press table. Drill your first hole and swap ends. Now put as long a piece of close fitting rod as you can get under the ceiling,through the first hole. Drop a plumb line somewhere beyond it and eyball the rod to the plumb line. It will be plenty close enough for almost any purposes. This does assume that your drill press is somewhere close to being perpendicular. You might want to eyeball it with the plumb line first. Robert Bastow ======== Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking Subject: Re: Auger screws; anyone know how to make them????????????? From: Robert Bastow Date: Sat, 29 Aug 1998 06:20:53 GMT -------- Two ways I have used..depends on I/d to O/d and thickness of material. Narrow flights (1 to 4 inches wide) can be rolled on edge from strip stock. You may need custom grooved rollers. For larger and thicker flights..flame cut a series of plate rings (Annuli !) cut one side on centerline, heat and pull open to pitch dimension..(axially that is). weld to next flight and repeat. For really big ones, flame cut segments of a turn to save material. I have built them (For continuous decanting centrifuges) with a core dia 36'' , O/D of 60 inches, length 12 feet'' material..1/2" stainless. Hard faced and ground to gage. Don't want to make another!! Robert Bastow ======== Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking Subject: Re: "I" beams as lathe beds etc. From: Robert Bastow Date: Wed, 02 Sep 1998 04:53:59 GMT -------- One of the "top of the line" German CNC Lathes (GDF I think) Has a bed/mainframe made of reinforced concrete with hardened steel ways bonded in place. I did hear of one instance where the ways fell off. Robert Bastow ======== Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking Subject: Re: Help with 4 Jaw Chuck From: Robert Bastow Date: Sun, 06 Sep 1998 00:22:57 GMT -------- It is not easy to figure out, from your description , exactly what the problem is..but it sounds like a bent screw. Remove all four jaws. You will notice that the screws have a necked section that runs in a forked insert. Look at the back of the chuck and you may see four round plugs. If not, remove the backplate and you should see them. Using a narrow, flat ended punch , and from the front of the chuck, gently tap the forked plugs out and the screws should slip out of their holes. Check the screws and straighten if required. Make sure the jaws are a good sliding fit. Pop the screws back in and tap the forked plugs in from the back..DON'T GO TOO DEEP Or the screws will bind. Reassemble jaws and backplate. Robert Bastow ======== Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking Subject: Re: Mounting a back plate on a three jaw chuck From: Robert Bastow Date: Fri, 11 Sep 1998 09:03:33 GMT -------- Cutting a step to suit the recess in the back of the chuck is certainly the "textbook" way. However, it may not be the "best" way! I always mount my 3-jaws without a locating spigot and drill rather oversized clearance holes for the mounting bolts. That way you can ease off the bolts and tap any particular job into dead alignment. (don't forget to tighten the bolts up again before turning) Robert Bastow ======== Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking Subject: Re: MSC nice guys From: Robert Bastow Date: Fri, 25 Sep 1998 05:43:31 GMT -------- MSC _are_nice guys (and Gals) to deal with. I'm fortunate in that I live in Atlanta and can nip around the perimeter to their main distribution center (not in rush hour!!) Service is quick, competent and very friendly..nothing is too much trouble. Never yet ordered anything that was out of stock and not ready for me when I arrived thiry minutes after placing a phone order. Prices and quality are more than competitive. Specials are really a good deal, but their regular prices are usually as good or better than other suplpiers "specials" There is always something "tasty" on the "scratch and dent" table in the store, which makes each visit an adventure. I have had only one return so far and that was done without question or quible. These people are to be commended and encouraged..they get 90% of my business! I haven't been able to spring a new catalogue out of them..yet! Robert Bastow ======== Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking Subject: Re: Stupid Question From: Robert Bastow Date: Fri, 25 Sep 1998 06:33:34 GMT -------- Scott S. Logan wrote: > If I've got this straight, to cut a 1.75mm pitch with a 6mm pitch lead > screw, you would need a threading dial with some multiple of 7 teeth > in the gear. (6mm x 7 turns=42mm and 1.75mm x 24 turns=42mm) > > To cut 1.25mm, you would need some multiple of 5. (6mm x 5 turns=30mm > and 1.25mm x 24 turns=30mm) This is precisely what I have on my Maximat Super II It is fitted with an 8tpi leadscrew and a thread indicator dial with three gears..14, 15 and 16 tooth which can be engaged at will with the leadscrew. For Imperial pitches only the 16t gear is ever used and pickup is the usual 1,2,4 or 1,2 or 1only, depending on the pitch. With metric threads I am stuck with the same pickup problems as anyone else with an imperial lead screw. However, if I had a lot of metric threads to cut, I would change to a 3mm pitch leadscrew. I would then be able, by ringing the changes on the three pickup gears, to get 1,2,4 or 1,2 or 1,3 or 1 pickup on the following range of metric pitches: 0.175, 0.35, 0.4, 0.45, 0.7, 0.8, 0.9, 1.25, 1.75, 2, 2.25, 2.5, 3.5, 4.5 and 5.0 (this according to the instruction manual) It is significant that 0.5 and 1mm pitch are missing from this list. Robert Bastow ======== Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking Subject: Re: Stupid Question From: Robert Bastow Date: Fri, 25 Sep 1998 06:52:02 GMT -------- Robert Bastow wrote: However, if I had a lot of metric threads to cut, I would change to a 3mm pitch leadscrew. I would then be able, by ringing the changes on the three pickup > gears, to get 1,2,4 or 1,2 or 1,3 or 1 pickup on the following range of metric > pitches: > 0.175, 0.35, 0.4, 0.45, 0.7, 0.8, 0.9, 1.25, 1.75, 2, 2.25, 2.5, 3.5, 4.5 and 5.0 > (this according to the instruction manual) > > It is significant that 0.5 and 1mm pitch are missing from this list. > > On re-reading the manual (which appears to have been translated from the original German by a first year Chinese student of Arabic, with English as a fourth language!!)..I _think_ that pickup on 0.5 and 1.0mm pitch can be done at any position. Robert Bastow ======== To: alshinn@sirius.com Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking Subject: Re: Casting a sailboat keel From: Robert Bastow Date: Sat, 26 Sep 1998 07:10:31 GMT -------- Alan Shinn wrote: > Richard Sewell wrote: > > > > In article <360B7F4C.E7E694CB@mindspring.com>, gashmore@mindspring.com > > (Glenn Ashmore) wrote: > > > > > Steve Rayner wrote: > > > > > > > How about sealing the drain, and using the back of the tub as a spout. > > > > Pivot the back. Rig a tripod of heavy steel tubing over the front. > > > > Use a > > > > chain block, or tripod and boom to lift the other end from a distance. > > > > Make sure that the tub can't tip over sideways! > > > > > > Considering how much I am abusing this tub already, I don't even want > > > to tickle it while it is > > > hot. > > > > Incidentally, with all this talk of plugs, I've started to worry about the > > force you'll need to apply to lift a plug against the pressure of the lead > > above it. It'll be equal to the weight of the lead cylinder directly above > > the plug, if you see what I mean. > > > > Richard Sewell rsewell@cix.co.uk > > Or at least a plug the diameter of the drain. > For this same reason, an iron ball would not float once completely > immersed (you would have to hold it down for awhile with your myrtle > branch). Try this with water and a tennis ball in your (real) bathtub. > -- > > Looking forward: > Alan Shinn > > Experience the > beginnings of microscopy. > Make or buy your own replica > of one of Antony van Leeuwenhoek's microscopes. > visit http://www.sirius.com/~alshinn/ I strongly recommend setting up a screw (threaded rod about 3/4" dia should do it) to raise the plug with some control and give yourself a fighting chance to throttle the flow or close it off if something starts to go wrong (remember murphy?!!) Another consideration is the bubble of air that will be explosively ejected from the flow pipe when you open the valve..you need to control, and protect against, that. Robert Bastow ======== Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking Subject: Re: Not a great weekend (and some car tips) From: Robert Bastow Date: Sat, 26 Sep 1998 07:25:04 GMT -------- Fitch R. Williams wrote: > I used to love heading out to the barn to do chores on those cold > winter evenings when the snow was falling in the soft light of the > barn pole lamp, made crunching and squeaking sounds as I walked, and > the cold dry air tingled the hair in my nose. Havn't experienced that > in a looooong time. > > Thanks for the plesant memory. > > Fitch > In So. Cal. Fitch...you're sick!!! 8^) I lived for twelve cold years in the (lake effect) snow belt of the Niagara Peninsular before finally escaping back to the sunny south (Atlanta) Yes I know we get tornados and the fringe effects of hurricanes...I don't care so long as I don't have to shovel it!! I don't do snow any more..my family knows that robins, holly and Santa are ok on Christmas cards...but no snow!!! Robert Bastow ======== Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking Subject: Re: Not a great weekend (and some car tips) From: Robert Bastow Date: Sat, 26 Sep 1998 15:55:24 GMT -------- Fitch R. Williams wrote: Once or twice a year - most but not all years - we get a tiny bit of snow here. It lasts about 24 hours to 36 hours max, the FWY is shut down, then melts. Two or three years ago we had the "Blizzard of the Century" here in "Hotlanta".....4 to 6 inches..which would have been classed as a light sprinkle in Ontario. Funniest thing I ever saw was the first snowfall in Cairo, Egypt for about 25 years. About a sixteenth of and inch that stayed all of ten minutes! But in a city of eleven million people who had never seen it or driven in it, with an _accumulative_ total of 1/8th inch of tire tread between them and not a single windshield wiper in the city, it was a hoot to watch! On a normal ,dry day there is a major collision at ever major intersection, every hour, on the hour. You can imagine that with the snow it was "Fred Karno's Karnage"! Robert Bastow ======== Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking Subject: Re: Not a great weekend (and some car tips) From: Robert Bastow Date: Sat, 26 Sep 1998 23:17:16 GMT -------- DoN. Nichols wrote: > Robert Bastow wrote: > > I would have replied by e-mail, but that e-mail address looks like a > spam-proof one, so I'm going for the newsgroup instead. > > >Funniest thing I ever saw was the first snowfall in Cairo, Egypt for about 25 > >years. About a sixteenth of and inch that stayed all of ten minutes! But in a > >city of eleven million people who had never seen it or driven in it, with an > >_accumulative_ total of 1/8th inch of tire tread between them and not a single > >windshield wiper in the city, it was a hoot to watch! > > Especially given the typical speeds and inter-vehicle clearance > there. :-) > > >On a normal ,dry day there is a major collision at ever major intersection, > >every hour, on the hour. You can imagine that with the snow it was "Fred > >Karno's Karnage"! > > Interesting. I was *told* (by someone in the tourist industry) that > there were never any accidents, and I started looking at the vehicles as > they whizzed by. I saw *no* crumpled metal, or signs of crumpled metal > having been "fixed", even though quite a few of the vehicles had been in use > long enough so the paint was wearing thin, and there was a light film of > rust forming on some of the vehicles. > > So -- since what you say agrees with what I felt *must* be the case, > what happens to the victims? Are all the vehicles totaled in these wrecks? > > I was rather amazed at the skills of the taxi drivers, with what > felt like a fore-and-aft clearance of 1-3 feet, and a lateral clearance of > 8-12 inches -- at speeds around 50+ MPH. > > Thanks, > DoN. All I can say Don is that either, Cairo has changed a LOT in the past twnty years, or,we are talking about a different Cairo. The carnage was horrendous. At almost every intersection you would come across a high speed, total write-off wreck and bodies. Almost without exception there would be a black and white Fiat taxi involved. So far as dings and dents went..you could NEVER find a car without plenty. I once had a bet on with a friend that he couldn't find a car without a dent. After a whole days searching he dragged me triuphantly into a new car showroom and presented a gleaming, brand new black Mercedes. We walked around it and sure enough there was a ding in the door!!! My scariest trip was hammering across the desert road from Cairo to Alexandria in a clapped out diesel Peugeot 504 with eight people in it and four bald tires. One a cross ply, one a steel belt and two different sized/makes of textile belts! Robert Bastow ======== Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking Subject: Re: Not a great weekend (and some car tips) From: Robert Bastow Date: Sun, 27 Sep 1998 04:37:38 GMT -------- DoN. Nichols wrote: > Wonderful! I figured that the first part of the vehicle to fail > *must* be the horn, They don't have horn buttons....just an on switch....or wired direct to the ignition. The cacophany of blaring horns, mixed with braying donkeys starts at five am and goes on twenty two hours a day > and the brakes probably lasted for the life of the > vehicle. :-) > > BRAKES????? > > -- > I once passed an interesting hour watching a pavement crafts man in the "Souks" (Bazaar). He was sitting on a carpet on the ground holding a Ford piston between his bare feet while he filed off about 60 thou on diameter to fit an old Mercedes engine. I have no doubt in my mind that it worked perfectly when he had done. Those street craftsmen were incredible. Robert Bastow ======== Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking Subject: Re: The perfect shop: floors From: Robert Bastow Date: Mon, 28 Sep 1998 08:22:33 GMT -------- Steve Rayner wrote: > A wooden floor is best, with the machines mounted on raised concrete slabs > that extend just above the floor. > > Scott A. Moore (samiamREMOVE@cisco.com) wrote: > : Oh, well, its two months off, but its on my mind! > > : I am planning to insulate and roof in my new shop garage, but > : I also know that concrete floors suck the heat right out of > : the air. I can't think of a whole lot of surfaces that are > : appropriate for machining ! I second the wooden floors bit. I am slowly building my perfect shop in the basement(with slightly damp concrete floor). Main bitch is the back and leg problems caused by hard concrete floor, plus the dust and damp problem. After a lot of research I decided to go with a fairly springy arrangement and I love it. My procedure is to first seal the floor with a thick coat of black roofing "tar"..it is far cheaper than the floor sealants and seems to work just as well. Over this, while it is wet I lay a layer of thick roofing paper. On this I lay 2 x 2 pressure treated sleepers, first in a 4' x 8' perimeter and then cross to divide in to eight.. 2 ' square sections. I tried one area with only 3 dividers and that (in front of the bench) is maybe a little too springy. The perimeter bearers are pinned with a couple or three concrete nails, the rest are glued down with "liquid nails" This is done while the sealant is still wet so that the few nails will be self sealing On top of this goes 3/4" tongue and grooved, flooring grade, plywood which is nailed to the sleepers. Under areas where I placed benches and light machines I added additional wood blocking...To the point of being almost solid under the table saw and jointer. I tried the same under my Maximat Super II lathe and it was a no-go. Solution was to mark VERY carefully the position of the jacking screws (by screwing them down into the wooden floor). Move the lathe to one side and drill 2" diameter holes through the plywood. into these I dropped close fitting 2'' diameter steel plugs, faced to the floor thickness (2 1/4'') in length and into one end of which I had put a substantial drill dimple to suit the jacking screws. Moved lathe back and leveled it...solid as a rock!!..with a nice "springy" floor all around it. Proof of the effectivness of the water proofing came a week later. While we were away on vacation the neighborhood was hit by a tornado. Missed us by a few yards!! But the power was out for several hours and without the sump pump the basement flooded to a depth of one inch..ie below the new floor. Absolutely no loss or damage to any equipment or materials..Phew!! As of yet I haven't decided on the best finish for the floor but I'm hankering after prefinished oak parquet (surprisingly cheaper than vinyl) for the wood working area and the hardest, thickest vinyl tiles I can find (like the old "Battleship Linoleum in the metal shop. I like tiles because they can be replaced if worn or damaged. Expensive? Yes but I worked long and hard to be able to spend a lot of time in the future in MY "Perfect Shop" I would welcome other suggestions on a suitable finish for the metal area..I'm kinda committed to the structure! Do you know the difference between "involved" and "committed"? Its kinda like bacon and eggs.....The chicken is involved, the pig is committed!! Robert Bastow Don't force it...Use a bigger hammer! ======== Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking Subject: Re: Interrupted Screw Threads? From: Robert Bastow Date: Mon, 28 Sep 1998 10:02:20 GMT -------- > OK, may I muddy the waters a little here :) > > The process described works fine for *single* interrupted threads. > But look more closely at that artillery piece (especially a large > one). Chances are, it's not a single thread cut at 90 degree points, > but *two* interleaved threads cut out at 60 degrees. > So moving around the circumference, one sees: > > 1. Large diameter thread > 2. Smaller diameter thread > 3. Cut clean away > 4. Repeat from [1] > > When disengaged, the small (male) thread can pass clean through the > large female, while the cut-away section passes clean through the > small thread. > The closed breech now has engaged threads over 66% of its > circumference, not 50%. Result: a stronger gun. > > Now please, how to cut those threads (esp. the interior one)? > > -- Dave Brooks > PGP public key via , or servers Dead on description Dave of what is called a "Welin" breech screw. Some of the larger ones have three or even four steps. For a good picture of one go to your search engine, enter" breech" and it will take you to a site in Finland that has as good a picture as I've seen. I do have the URL but it doesn't seem to transmit well. Now as to how they are made. The article in the ME was not a very good description. In real life they are done on special machines that combine the operation of a relieving lathe (used also for turning relieved form tools such as gear hobs) and an intermitant drive (probably some form of "geneva" motion. I am currently building a 1/8th scale model of a WW I 9.2" howitzer which has a two step Welin screw. Here's how I plan to do it. First job is to slow the lathe down from minimum low speed of 55 rev/min to a tenth of that. I have rigged a temporary drive from a DC motor to an auxilliary pully on the main drive motor with a 10 to 1 reduction. The main drive acts only as a jockey shaft. Now I get variable speed from zero to five rpm..Lotsa torque!! Fitted to the chuck back plate is a cam that controls the cross slide movement via a direct push rod. The cam has four quadrants at 90 degrees, each quadrant has a full dia (controls major thread dia on the female bush..opposite on the male). then there is a sharp drop off (square edge follower) to relieve from major dia to minor dia. The minor dia is not controlled by the cam but independently by an adjustable back stop on the cross slide. This gives me independent control of the two thread diameters..relative to each other. The final step of each quadrant is ramp back up to major dia. In operation the feed screw is removed from the cross slide just as in taper turning and cross slide is controlled by a strong spring in one direction and and adjustable stop in the other. Segments are planed out of the bush and breech block , obviously, before threading. Not quite as simple as some people think but quite straight forward after you have thought about it for 35 years as I have done with this particular model!!! Robert Bastow Don't force it..Use a bigger hammer!! ======== Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking Subject: Re: The perfect shop: floors From: Robert Bastow Date: Tue, 29 Sep 1998 04:58:16 GMT -------- Where I "served my time"....in a hundred year old, multi-acreage sized, engineering plant..all the floors were wooden "sets" These are end grain wooden blocks set on a rammed earth base. Very durable, non slip, "warm" (relative term..the shop could be well below freezing during winter!!), tough as old boots, yet gentle on dropped parts. Added advantage that chocks could be spiked down to stop things rolling or slipping. In machine shops we were provided with wooden duck boards for the operators to stand on. A good one would be strips of softwood say 1/1/2" x 3/4" x 6ft long; nailed at 3/4" spacing onto four, underneath, cross battens of the same section and about 30" wide. These are resilient, thus easy on the back and legs, allow swarf (chips) and coolant to drain, and provide a non slip surface. As a by-word I would implore all machinists to ensure that the area around machinery is kept clean, dry and free of obstacles. Always know your escape route if something goes wrong. I once witnessed an apprentice, with his hands in his pockets, trip and fall head first onto the table of a large, rotating, VTL (Vertical Turning Lathe). I had to help pick up the bits!! Wood floors do seem to stand up reasonably well and the advantages outweigh the disadvantages in my honest opinion. Indeed we found the most durable and comfortable footwear was wooden soled, leather upper, clogs shod with clog irons and nails. Your feet would remain snug and comfortable for 16 hour double shifts and the uppers wore out before the soles! Robert Bastow (Who is not as old as I maybe sound) ======== Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking Subject: Re: lathe reconditioning From: Robert Bastow Date: Tue, 29 Sep 1998 05:25:22 GMT -------- Russ Kepler wrote: > > > Turcite apparently comes in a couple of liquid forms, a thicker and > thinner version. There is also several thicknesses of sheet > available. The type I saw used was the thicker liquid. > Hi Russ, I used the 1/16'' Turcite to rebuild a Smart and Browne Model A toolroom lathe (very similar to a Monarch EE) After getting the bed reground I set up the saddle on the milling machine and removed enough metal from the ways to accomodate the Turcite (pronounced Tur-Kite) This material is a tuquoise colored, extruded PTFE based material with additives. One side is etched to provide a key for the special (and VERY expensive) two part epoxy used to bond the Turcite to the saddle. After thorough degreasing, the ways are buttered with epoxy, precut strips laid in place and the saddle clamped onto the bed. After curing the saddle pops off and can then be finish scraped into true alignment. It is best to machine the saddle to remove oil contamination and to avoid having to shim the apron and leadscrew back into position Turcite does a wonderful job. Slip-stick is virtually eliminated and clearances can be set to zero..thus eliminating chatter. It will turn a good lathe into a superb one. Turcite is made by Shamban and they do have a web site. Robert Bastow ======== Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking Subject: Re: Why turn rotors? WAS Not a great weekend From: Robert Bastow Date: Tue, 29 Sep 1998 06:05:35 GMT -------- Rev Chuck wrote: > > > Know the difference between a Yugo and a Jehovah's Witness? > > You can shut the door on the Witness. > > -- > Do you know why Trabants have a heated rear window? So your hands don't freeze when you push it! Robert Bastow ======== Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking Subject: Re: Antique gas engine kits?? From: Robert Bastow Date: Tue, 29 Sep 1998 06:14:54 GMT -------- Russ Kepler wrote: > Actually, as list-mom Are you my Mommy? Hey guys come on over and give the modeleng-list a try..lots of good information and company. Just don't try to run off subject as long as you do here. Thats when Russ turns net-nanny!! And don't mention Weetabix!! Robert Bastow ======== Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking Subject: Re: Rotary Table for sale From: Robert Bastow Date: Wed, 30 Sep 1998 19:34:45 GMT -------- Dick Brewster wrote: > Enco also has H/V rotary tables on sale. $189 for the 8 inch Enco, > and you can get the table plus tailstock and dividing plates for > $289. > The 10 inch Enco is $220 for the table and $339 for the combo. > > MSC has the 10" Phase II H&V Rotary table for sale at $299 Phase II is usually good quality. Robert Bastow ======== Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking Subject: Re: Precision reciprocating grinder From: Robert Bastow Date: Thu, 01 Oct 1998 06:57:06 GMT -------- Steve Rayner wrote: > They are called a toolpost grinder. .......... > I have one in the design stage right now. I would be very interested in the bearing design and specification. Do you intend to use angular contact bearings? What size and ABEC spec? What provision for preloading? What about sealing? What HP drive and belt type? Spindle nose and/or collet sizes? Appreciated. Robert Bastow ======== Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking Subject: Re: Amazing Press From: Robert Bastow Date: Fri, 02 Oct 1998 11:47:48 GMT -------- This is a big press but by no means the worlds largest. I used to work for a company in the UK with a 50,000 ton press. It was used for making large steel pressure vessals...hydraulic accumulators etc. It would take a huge cube of 4140X and in one push would back extrude it into an open ended cup with a six inch wall thickness. Hydraulic mains were 24" dia (saw one break once...Oops!!) Demag in Germany have a 75000 tonner and I believe there is an even bigger one in Russia. Robert Bastow ======== Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking Subject: Re: Hare brained scheme, hole poking invited... From: Robert Bastow Date: Fri, 02 Oct 1998 12:12:57 GMT -------- Jeff DelPapa wrote: > I have gotten very tired of losing register every time I need to move > the head on my mill drill. (snip) So now I have another strange idea, > replace the > round section with a square one, and carve out the head casting to > match...(Big snip) > As you say....a hare brained scheme and a collosol amount of uneccessary time and expense. A square column with a dovetail is redundent design..you only need one or the other. Simplest way is to attach a feather key to the column (no need to mill a key way for it). Take the head casting to a decent machine shop and have them broach a keyway in it for you. Have this made 1/8" wider than the feather key and offset from C/L by that amount...then you can fit a gib strip and adjusting screws. A better device would be a triangular gib key..but that would be a whole lot more difficult to machine and fit. I was looking at a JET Mill/drill the other day and it was fitted with an elevating rack. This was designed to swivel around the column...exactly like a drill press. You have most of the elements there for a feather key alignment....Get the rack strip ground accurately parallel on its sides. Screw it to the column..a few counterbored capscrews will not interfere with the rack operation.Figure out how to fit and adjust a thin flat gig strip (or open up the existing keyway as above). I realise you will loose the swing head feature, but that may be an acceptable compromise. There are mill/drills built in Europe with exactly this system of alignment. Robert Bastow ======== Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking Subject: Re: mill/drill From: Robert Bastow Date: Fri, 02 Oct 1998 12:32:37 GMT -------- rkurtz wrote: > I recently bought a mill/drill from harbor freight. After cleaning the > shipping grease off I sprayed the gibs and ways with wd-40 (what I could > get to). I tried to move the x and y tables. The x moves but with great > effort. The y takes 2 hands on the wheel and even more effort. I can > get to the x lead screw from underneath to lube it. How do you lube the > y lead screw? I've tried to loosen the gibs to hopefully lessen the > pressure there but that didn't help. The instruction manual is in > English but very Chinese written (worthless). Does anyone have a > suggestion on the lube and table movement? That much effort is NOT a lube problem. First loosen lock screws! Still a problem? Then loosen the screws holding the feed screw mounting brackets If that frees in up, move the table as close to the feedscrew mounting end as possible before snugging up the screws. If it tightens up again try shimming the mounting bracket. It may be out of square. Next check the feed nuts. If they are loose it could cause jamming. If they are not loose..try loosening them..they may be out of alignment. If they have an antibacklash adjustment try backing this off (see your manual) Still a problem ? Remove the feed screws altogether..you should be able to push the slides reasonably easily from one end to the other without shake or tight spots. Check that the feedscrews rotate freely in their bearings If you find tight spots you are into slideway scraping. If you know how to do this...fine. If not you now have grounds to demand a replacement machine. Robert Bastow ======== Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking Subject: Blackbird From: Robert Bastow Date: Fri, 02 Oct 1998 12:41:00 GMT -------- Fitch R. Williams wrote: > >There is also an SR71 on display at the Castle AFB museum. > There is an SR71 Blackbird on display at the Air Force Armament Museum at Eglin Air Force Base, Pensacola FL. (actually Fort Walton/Crestview area) Lots of other goodies including missiles, "gatling" type guns, a 12000 lb "Tall Boy" bomb and the casing for "Fat Boy" Well worth a visit if you are ever in the Florida Panhandle Robert Bastow ======== Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking Subject: Re: Is Millink kweston From: Robert Bastow Date: Fri, 02 Oct 1998 12:57:24 GMT -------- Big Bad Wolf wrote: > Hello > Can helping my pls Im gotink millink big whavt ist gray und > lectric 7 KW motro being.Vhast its max revloutions beink vith ths tip > millink whist caste iron beink. > Can carbide stronger beink, vhat speed being. > With lath round steel an bras long round along color. Should tap M12 > Am use understandink me beink. sory my elgland ist not goot. First time > metal verkink > > Thks > > Ivor Achtung! Das machin nicht is fur gerfingerpoken!Oder rubbernechin touristen gervatchen!Und a hans, neez, und boompsadaisy to you too Ivor! Robert Bastow ======== Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking Subject: Re: mill/drill From: Robert Bastow Date: Fri, 02 Oct 1998 13:24:01 GMT -------- Dick Brewster wrote: > With one large entrance to the shop at loading dock height. > > -- > Dick Brewster > > Watch that first step...Its a Doozie!! Robert Bastow ======== Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking Subject: Grinding spindle From: Robert Bastow Date: Fri, 02 Oct 1998 13:50:25 GMT -------- I am looking for a successful design for a small grinding spindle. Ideally about 1 1/2" o/d x 6" long, suitable for up to 30,000 rev/min and with collet chuck. Any ideas? Much appreciated. Robert Bastow ======== Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking Subject: The only advantage of metric! From: Robert Bastow Date: Fri, 02 Oct 1998 14:44:08 GMT -------- IMHO the ONLY advantage of metric is that you can tell your date that 150mm is equivalent to about 10 inches. By the time she finds out..it's too late!! 8^) Robert Bastow ======== Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking Subject: Re: Grinding spindle From: Robert Bastow Date: Fri, 02 Oct 1998 18:13:44 GMT -------- Randy O'Brian wrote: > Metal Lathe Accessories( advertises in HSM) has a kit for a tool post > grinder which is about the same size. The internal grinding spindle uses > double angle collets. Top speed is 30,000 rpm. I built the kit, but > modified the bearing arrangement somewhat since I didn't agree with the > original design. It works well and could be modified fairly easily to meet > some special need. > > Randy > Randy, Thanks for the imput. How and why did you modifiy the bearing arrangement? All I need is the spec on the bearings and a sketch of the pre-load arrangement. This will be a "cartridge" type spindle..machined from solid cast iron bar stock. The mounting, motor, and gards I will fabricate. Does any one have a set of drawings for this or the Quorn spindle that I can scrounge a copy of? Costs will be covered of course. Robert Bastow ======== Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking,alt.machines.cnc Subject: Re: Power req for threading machine From: Robert Bastow Date: Fri, 02 Oct 1998 18:17:21 GMT -------- Hoyt McKagen wrote: > Am helping a guy with an unusual stepper-driven threading machine, to be > dedicated to a given product. He has decided to use a gear-head stepper > and thinks he can thread up to 3/8-24 in 304 stainless rod with 200 oz/in > output to the die. I think if he could use that little torque, an > ordinary NEMA #34 frame 450 oz/in stepper could be used, but intuitively > I don't think that is powerful enough. In order to size this guy's system > for him, can anyone give me a solid idea what torque is going to be > needed at the die? > > Many thanks and best wishes, > > Hoyt > Too many variables..die sharpness and lubrication etc.. Suck it and see...put a torque wrench on a sample..then you will be sure. Robert Bastow ======== Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking Subject: Re: The only advantage of metric! From: Robert Bastow Date: Sat, 03 Oct 1998 17:11:03 GMT -------- plastic wrote: > Robert Bastow wrote: > > >IMHO the ONLY advantage of metric is that you can tell your date that > >150mm is equivalent to about 10 inches. > > > >By the time she finds out..it's too late!! 8^) > > > >Robert Bastow > > > If you did have 250 MM your date would be screaming in pain. Yeah..but not PAIN!! ======== Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking Subject: Re: Need ideas for removing tank From: Robert Bastow Date: Sat, 03 Oct 1998 17:25:44 GMT -------- Howard Eberly wrote: > I have a tank in my basement that was lowered in with a crane after the > basement was poured. (snip), and I don't have a clue as to how I can > get this monster out of the basement. (snip) It has to be taken out in > sections, > and the asphalt/tar coating makes me think burning would not be a good > idea. If the rivets are round, raised heads, chop them off with a club hammer and cold chisel then punch the rivet out. An air hammer would be an asset. If they are flathead rivets you will need to drill them out. Good luck, I don't envy you the job...but think of all the new tackle you can put in that space! Robert Bastow ======== Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking Subject: Re: Bending of Non-Circular Tubing? From: Robert Bastow Date: Sat, 03 Oct 1998 17:49:28 GMT -------- Akilli wrote: > Greetings, > Is there a method of bending tubing of polygonal cross section, > without the buckling/crimping at the bend, or does the geometry just make this > impossible? > Much Obliged, > Ethan Gross Commercially this would be done by filling the tube with lead or similar material. The bend would be done on a "Stretch Bender"...a machine which stretches the tube as it is bent. Stretching puts all the material above the neutral axis and eliminates kinking. (In normal bending the neutral axis is at or close to the centerline. Material above the NA is stretched and does not normally kink. Material below the NA is compressed and will kink.) ======== Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking Subject: Re: The only advantage of metric! From: Robert Bastow Date: Sat, 03 Oct 1998 17:58:09 GMT -------- PLAlbrecht wrote: > >> If you did have 250 MM your date would be screaming in pain. > > > > Yeah..but not PAIN!! > > If there were a perceived problem, you could install a travel stop, like on a > lathe bed. Clamp firmly with setscrews. > > Pete ROTFLOL!!! OUCH!!....That would bring tears to a glass eye. Reminds me of the kid who went to buy his first pack of condoms. "Thank you sir." says the shop assistant, "that will be $2.00 including tax" " never mind the tacks" says the kid "I'll tie them on!" Robert Bastow ======== Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking Subject: Re:Kit Machines From: Robert Bastow Date: Sat, 03 Oct 1998 18:25:00 GMT -------- greybeard wrote: > If it was a "kit" > machine I could agree Theres a thought for an enterprising Importer. I would love to get my hands on a set of finish machined castings and do all the detail finishing, fitting and assembly. You could "mix and match" your own custom machine and choose the level of sophistication you build in. Probably a pie in the sky dream. Robert Bastow ======== Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking Subject: Re: Surface Grinder lead screw replacement From: Robert Bastow Date: Sun, 04 Oct 1998 00:18:39 GMT -------- Gunner wrote: > Thanks everyone for your information.! I was figuring on cutting off > the old leadscrew just below the bearing surface, faceing and then > boring a hole. Then turning a matching stub on the end of the new lead > screw, inserting it into the hole and then heliarcing them togather, > then grinding down the weld. Is this a good way to proceed? Overkill and risks warpage. Use loctite permanent..it will hold! > The delta > has a odd shaped cast iron casting with the nut threads, threaded id. > I was figuring on boring it out, and making a bronze or oilite sleeve > to fit inside the bore with the threads single pointed inside the > sleeve. Silver solder should hold it into the casting? Don't use Oilite...way too soft. Use hard bronze or cast iron is even better. Make the bush a slide fit and use loctite. OBTW never try to solder Oilite (a) it won't stick (b) you will drive out most of the oil. Robert Bastow ======== Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking Subject: Calling Tom Hammond From: Robert Bastow Date: Sun, 04 Oct 1998 01:15:44 GMT -------- Tom I got your email and the offer is much appreciated However your return email address didn't work for me. Can you contact me off list at tubal_cain@hotmail.com Thanks Robert Bastow ======== Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking Subject: Re: Jimmy Airs a Junkyard Dog TV Plug. From: Robert Bastow Date: Sun, 04 Oct 1998 04:29:37 GMT -------- PLAlbrecht wrote: > Geez, now I'm making people snarf their herb tea? We must be getting old. I can > remember when it was still chocolate milk back at dear old Lane Tech... Good > joke was chocolate milk out of both nostrils... Timing is everything....With the right joke or repartee and perfect timing, you can get beer coming down nostrils AND out of both ears!! Robert Bastow Blessed with perfect pitch and perfect timing. ======== Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking Subject: Reverse Polish Notation From: Robert Bastow Date: Sun, 04 Oct 1998 04:34:15 GMT -------- Where does this term originate and what precisely does it mean Sounds more like a sexual aberration than a mathematical term. Robert Bastow ======== Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking Subject: Calling Tom Hammond..again..sorry list. From: Robert Bastow Date: Sun, 04 Oct 1998 18:21:49 GMT -------- Sorry listers, but Tom and I seem to have a major communication problem. Tom I got your last message and sent a (long) reply Mailer demon bounced it right back. Address I am using is: thamm10502@aol.com What am I doing wrong? Robert Bastow ======== Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking Subject: Re: What is "Blanchard grinding?" From: Robert Bastow Date: Mon, 05 Oct 1998 15:50:24 GMT -------- Rev Chuck wrote: > If I understand correctly, it's sort of a reversed lathe where the > cutter spins and you move the workpiece by hand. A copying machine > essentially, with the cutter linked to a pattern follower. Originally > used to mass produce gunstocks for the U.S. Army. A familiar > variant is the key duplicating machine at your local hardware store. > Sorry Chuck, what you describe is a duplicating lathe A blanchard grinder is a horizontal magnetic table,(usually rotating but there are reciprocating models) The grinding wheels are segments, some bigger than house bricks mounted on a vertical spindle with provision for fine feed. Used for rough and finish grinding of plate material which finihes up with characteristic swirl grinding marks. A common example would be the top of most table saws. In the hands of an EXPERT it can produce work within a half thou or so of flat. However, for most purposes a flatness limit of plus or minus a couple of thousandths is expected and acceptable. The largest I ever saw had a 120" dia table, the smallest was 12" x 6" (cute..wish I had one.) In that case the table was fixed and the vertical spindle grinding head was swung by hand in an arc. This would make an interesting, useful, and fairly straight forward project, for the home shop...I'm gonna build one!! My initial thought would be to use the base and column from a bench drill press Once assembled the machine would generate its own accuracy with a finish pass over the base before mounting the magnetic chuck. Blanch.grinding experts..... Are 10" to 12" dia wheels available? Would a 1 1/2 hp - 3450 rev/min 220v single phase motor have enough oomph for such a machine? Robert Bastow ======== Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking Subject: Re: Opinions on Webb vertical mill? From: Robert Bastow Date: Mon, 05 Oct 1998 16:09:49 GMT -------- PLAlbrecht wrote: > >They were rather poorly finished and not as smooth as a B'port but > >then a B'port is not much of a mill either, though they are good drill > >presses. > > Oooh... zinger.... > > What mills would you put ahead of BP then? Deckel? the Japanese? What? I'm > willing to change my jones list... > > Pete I would put the small Deckel WAY ahead of the Bridgeport, or any of its clones, in terms of quality, versatility, accuracy and, oh yes..price and resale value. Do-All, in Canada, built a better version of the BP. They used square edge ways that were more resistant to wear. Kondia and several other makers build a larger version of the BP that is more rigid and powerful. IMHO the Bridgeport is now way overpriced. Several clones are available that are as well or better built and half the price. They use castings from the same Asian sources as BP. I would not hesitate to buy one after completing my own "Due Diligence" I would not buy ANY machine tool, new or used on a "sight unseen" basis. For the home shop my personal preference is for a horizontal mill with vertical head attachment. Robert Bastow ======== Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking Subject: Re: Moore and Wright measuring instruments From: Robert Bastow Date: Mon, 05 Oct 1998 16:58:10 GMT -------- Clive Warren wrote: > I have been told that a number of messages have been posted in this group > requesting information on Moore & Wright micrometers and other products. > > I am pleased to advise that Moore & Wright are able to respond directly to > all enquiries via e-mail. Their address is: info@moore-and-wright.com > > Clive Warren > General Sales Manager > Moore & Wright, Sheffield, UK. I hope Mr Warren will post the name of their US distributor. I would like to be able to purchase their products here..if the price is not too silly! As an ex-patriot English tool and die maker (who settled in the US twenty-two years ago) I have extensive experience of Moore and Wright tools and rate them right up there with Starrett for quality. I still have the M&W 0-1" Micrometer I bought with my first week's wages as an apprentice. It is used almost daily and has never failed to pass calibration. I have no connection with M&W except as a very satisfied user (who was born in Sheffield!!!) Robert Bastow ======== Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking Subject: Re: Reverse Polish Notation From: Robert Bastow Date: Mon, 05 Oct 1998 17:37:15 GMT -------- Stan Stelmach wrote: > Go to Dr. Math and check it for your math question. > BTW, where to get help on the second subject you mention, I don't know. > Stan Stelmach > > Robert Bastow wrote i > > Where does this term originate and what precisely does it mean > > > > Sounds more like a sexual aberration than a mathematical term. > The group has already answered my first question. The very first calculator I purchased, (a Casio I recall) worked on the RPN principle. I was familiar with it and liked it very much. I had a long term curiosity about the ORIGIN of the term which I had heard so many times. I just wasn't sure whether this was a "proper" title for it or a derogatory term, as in "French Automobile Styling" or "Jap Scrap". ;^) (Note to Self....Self, put on Nomex Knickers and find secure hiding place!!) So far as my second question: I have other sources for sexual aberrations of which I am an avid collector and experienced practitioner. It is the only thing I would rather be doing than cutting metal. ( Usually anyhow.....) However I always welcome constructive advice on how to get the best out of them!! 8^) 8^) 8^) ======== Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking Subject: Re: Copper Question From: Robert Bastow Date: Mon, 05 Oct 1998 17:43:26 GMT -------- GlassFishy wrote: > Hi! > > > Here's what I'm trying to make and some questions I have. I am wanting to make > a Range Hood Cover. I plan to make it out of wood and cover it with Copper > sheeting (in some sort of design or piecework.) Can the copper sheeting be held > together in the same manner as plumbing pipes with solder or is there a > different process? I've also seen some copper art projects with like a lacquer > look on them. Does this keep them from tarnishing? I would advise against a wooden lining simply on the grounds of fire risk. Properly designed and constructed a solid copper hood would not need a lining. Soft solder will hold it together quite adequately but overrun would be unsightly and difficult to remove. If I were to make something similar I would opt for nice straight rows of polished copper rivets. For what it is worth 8^) Robert Bastow ======== Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking Subject: Re: Decorative ironwork From: Robert Bastow Date: Mon, 05 Oct 1998 17:48:21 GMT -------- A Spammer wrote: > G***** F**** consists of a highly qualified team of professionnals : > blacksmiths, polishers, patinaters, varnishers, producing components in forged > iron and bronze. It’s also has designers who constantly draw and innovate with > respect to the traditions. > > G***** F**** appears on any five continents !!! > So does this group mate! But we don't like spammers ! Sod off!! Robert Bastow ======== Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking Subject: Re: Bison 5-C collet chuck From: Robert Bastow Date: Mon, 05 Oct 1998 17:58:37 GMT -------- Stan Stocker wrote: > Topless Pig wrote: > > > > Does anyone have any opinions good or bad about a Bison 5-C collet > > chuck? If 250 is too steep, consider making one yourself. If you decide to build a collet chuck you might want to consider ustilising the excellent Jacobs "Rubberflex" collets. They are very accurate, grip mor securely and have a wider tolerance range than standard spring steel collets. Jacobs Chuck Co have a web page which your search engine will find. Naught but a satisfied user. Robert Bastow ======== Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking Subject: Re: Moore and Wright measuring instruments From: Robert Bastow Date: Mon, 05 Oct 1998 18:40:51 GMT -------- Brian Evans wrote: > When last in Jolly Old, I went to a flea market and picked up a complete, in the > original box, still had the packing slip Moore and Wright inside Mic set. 2" to > about 10" with interchangeable extensions. Paid about 15 pounds (maybe $25 US). > Now I need to find a depth mic with all the extensions, and I'll be all set! Yer lucky sod! Next time I'm over I intend to raid Tony Griffiths establishment. I always fancied one of those cute little instrument makers mill. How about a group discount Tony? BTW does anyone know if there are import duties on used equipment coming into the US? ======== Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking Subject: Re:Expletives to be deleted From: Robert Bastow Date: Mon, 05 Oct 1998 18:57:05 GMT -------- > MERDE ?? > > Is this French for Bullshit ?? > > Regards, > > John Stevenson at > No it is french for Shit..as in this thread!! 8^) "Zut...merde alors!"......a favourite french expletive does not translate! Nor does the French Canadian "Tabernac!" Robert Bastow ======== Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking Subject: Re: British Cars From: Robert Bastow Date: Mon, 05 Oct 1998 19:26:56 GMT -------- Carl Byrns wrote: > True enough, but English cars in general have had a rotten reputation > for quite sometime. If you've ever dealt British cars, it soon becomes > impossible to say "Lucas" or "SU" without bursting into tears or > laughter, depending on which side of the repair bill you're on. It was the Scottish soldier that won the British Empire ....And Lucas Electrics (Prince of Darkness) that lost it! The best thing ever to happen to Jaguar was their purchase by Ford. First thing they did was chuck Lucas out and put in Bosch electrics and the excellent Ford Q1 program. My (third) XJ12 is as smooth, quick and reliable as you could wish for in any car. Not that that is a major consideration as it is covered bumper to bumper by factory/dealer extended warranty for as long as I own it. It even covers routine sevices, oilchanges and windshield wiper blades! Definitely a "keeper" My delight with this car is in sad contrast to my buddy who has a Mercedes 600SLC (V12) and it spends (literally) more time in the shop than on the road. If you think Jags are expensive, try maintaining a Benz!! The BMW 750 V12 is the worst dog of the bunch! They sell for cheap round here. I was an avid fan of the earlier Triumphs..had at least one example of every model from the original TR rumble seated roadster, up to three TR6's The UK version of the TR6 was a flying brick on wheels with fuel injection (albeit Lucas)..not the anemic carburetted "federalised" version sold here. If anything the power exceeded the capabilities of the chassis and they could be very hairy to drive in wet weather. Lotsa fun though! The TR7 [ 8^( ] was one of the many reasons why I left the country! Robert Bastow ======== Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking Subject: Re: What is "Blanchard grinding?" From: Robert Bastow Date: Mon, 05 Oct 1998 20:52:13 GMT -------- David Berryhill wrote: > > > I've thought the same thing for some time but wouldn't it be easier to have > a vertical grinding wheel like a surface grinder instead of a horizontal > grinding wheel? At least I think it would be easier to true the wheel since > it would only be necessary to dress the edge of the grinding wheel instead > of the face. > > What do you guys think? > Very much more complicated Dave. On a Horizontal spindle (a regular surface grinder) you need table travel back and forth on VERY accurate ways. You need Y axis adjustment (ditto) and Z axis too. All to be protected from grit if you ever get it built. Not a project for the average HSM On the other hand the small blanch type only needs fine adjustment in the z axis (the head up and down the column) traverse over the fixed table is by swinging about the round column. All moving parts are out of the way of most grit and easily protected. The wheel is a cup wheel that is easily dressed by swinging over a diamond held on the magnetic chuck. The wheel axis is tilted VERY slightly from true vertical to prevent contact on two arcs. There was, maybe still is, a kit of parts available in the UK for a similar grinder designed IIRC, by Edgar Westbury or Arnold Throp. This is well within the capabilities of many HSMs...Even me! Robert Bastow ======== Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking Subject: Re: egg launcher: Max egg rpm? From: Robert Bastow Date: Mon, 05 Oct 1998 20:58:42 GMT -------- Ted Edwards wrote: > James J Wygralak wrote: > > > the 2 lb bird at 500 MPH has over 22,000 joules of kinetic energy. > > The 500 lb bird at 2 mph only has about 90 joules > > Yet both have the same momentum. Which counts? Sounds like the > perenial debate over hunting arrows - heavy and slow or light and fast > from a bow with given stored energy. > > Ted B***S***. Stop and think! Which would you rather be hit by? The five hundred pound bird would likely bowl you over. The five hundred mph bird would likely vaporise you!!! Robert Bastow ======== To: STJ28 Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking Subject: Re: Another Thread Question: PLEASE HELP From: Robert Bastow Date: Tue, 06 Oct 1998 08:36:11 GMT -------- Sounds like a fundamental design problem. If you have to have a particular material in contact with the product and that material will not perform needed functions then you need to separate the functions. Choose materials that will do the adjustment function, like carbon steel and bronze and arrange a telescopic shield of the required grade of SS. alternatively move the adjustment "out of harms way" The initial cost will be repayed many times over. Anything else is stretching the envelope of compromise and that NEVER pays off long term. If your designers can't come up with an answer I am available for $2000 per deum plus first class travel and living expenses on a "no tickee..no laundree" contract basis. ( I've been around the Pharmaceutical Industry long enough to know that that is PEANUTS to youse guys!!!) 8^) Robert Bastow Consultant designer (Really!...Guess who put Birth Control pills in daily dial packs??) ======== Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking Subject: Re: Make Woodburning Stove? From: Robert Bastow Date: Tue, 06 Oct 1998 08:42:46 GMT -------- Gary Hansen wrote: > I'd like to build a woodburning stove for my own use. I have zero > experience with wood stoves but I have (and know what to do with) a good > wire welder and a plasma torch. Northern Hydraulic, among others, sells > some steel stoves made of 11 to 13 gauge rolled steel. I had in mind > using 3/16 to 1/4" material for longer life...... Get a four foot length of three foot diameter bar. Chuck in suitable lathe........8^) Robert Bastow Who is only half kidding!! ======== Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking Subject: Re: Why turn rotors? WAS Not a great weekend From: Robert Bastow Date: Tue, 06 Oct 1998 09:29:25 GMT -------- Carl Byrns wrote: > What can I say? You chaps also drink warm beer and eat kidney pie! Not > to mention you all drive on the wrong side of road. > Urban Myths.... English beer is served just 3 degrees warmer than US bee....shit! English beer is full flavored and designed to be quaffed in large quantities from wide mouth glasses..not sipped pansy style from long necked bottles!! Find an English or Irish Pub (the fastest growing segment in the bar business) and try it. It will knock you flat on your ass the first few times...but I'll guarantee you come back for more. ( Newcastle Brown Ale is called "Oil of Olay"....four pints makes every woman look beautiful!!!!) The correct name is "Steak and Kidney Pie"....with the emphasis on STEAK. The kidney is there in miniscule quantities to add delicious flavor. If you find a piece of kidney in a steak and kidney pud..it hasn't be made right. Check out a Ford "Fliver" most of them were Right hand drive. The US drove on the left in the days of Horses and the early days of Horseless carriages. No-one seems quite sure as to when and why the US went "cack-handed" In terms of population the majority of people in the world drive on the left. I love the Good 'Ole US of A...I CHOSE to live here twenty-three years ago and married a Southern Belle from Olde Alabamie. I do think though, it is time that WE Americans woke up to the fact that there is a whole different world out there and stopped being so bloody PAROCHIAL!!! All flames to be written on $100.00 bills and forwarded by express mail. PS I love fried okra...But I REALLY love Liver and Onions FWIW 8^) Robert Bastow Proud Brit, Proud Yank. ======== Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking Subject: Re: Another What Is It ?? From: Robert Bastow Date: Tue, 06 Oct 1998 09:34:30 GMT -------- John Stevenson wrote: > Amongst a job lot of gear I have a Starrett 'Gauge ?' > It is tapered like a sine bar with a sliding stepped piece with two rollers screwed > onto the sliding stepped piece > I thought it might be an adjustable packing block but the clamp arrangement is not > strong enough. > The Starrett part number is 246 [ could be 240 but I don't think so ] > Its obviously some form of level as it has a small bubble level in the base. > > Regards, > > John Stevenson at > > engineers@btinternet.com > > Nottingham, England. It is a Planer gauge..used originally to set the height of planer and shaper tools. Set with a micrometer..it is adjustable from 1/4" to six inches (using the cylindrical extensions) Useful bit 'o kit if you explore its possibilities. Cheers Robert Bastow..who has one too. ======== To: Denis Boboritsky Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking Subject: Re: need From: Robert Bastow Date: Tue, 06 Oct 1998 09:43:19 GMT -------- A Spammer wrote: > We need purchasers/buyers/ of iron pipes,U-beams,I-beams, > construction rods etc. Yeah...so do we! Go sit on yours. Sheesh..these Eastern European, ex Commies have a LOT to learn about marketing in the Free Enterprise System. Robert Bastow Who is just right of Attilla the Hun ======== Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking Subject: Re: Why turn rotors? WAS Not a great weekend From: Robert Bastow Date: Tue, 06 Oct 1998 09:51:28 GMT -------- PLAlbrecht wrote: Things like this are one reason people lease cars. If it's really, truly bad, maybe you still have some recourse (not sure about that, but if the thing is truly a lemon, seems you can let them have it back...) Pete Nope! A vehicle lease is a cast iron contract. The lessor takes no responsibility for "fitness for purpose" Your contract is likely sold within hours of you signing it, to a finance/collection outfit who will shit all over you and your credit rating if you don't pay up. No matter what the reason! Been there..done that...couldn't afford the tee-shirt! 8^( Robert Bastow ======== Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking Subject: Re: Jimmy Airs a Junkyard Dog TV Plug. From: Robert Bastow Date: Tue, 06 Oct 1998 09:55:15 GMT -------- Peter Drumm wrote: > > > If you like driving a 8000lb boat that gets 4 MPG, then it's good, > otherwise... > > Jeez.... That makes my XJ12 an Econo-cruiser!! Robert Bastow Ecologically aware! ======== Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking Subject: Re: went to Heaven today, well, almost From: Robert Bastow Date: Tue, 06 Oct 1998 10:02:08 GMT -------- Martin H. Eastburn wrote: > My property moved > 7 feet NW during the last big one. I can only hope the next real > big one is long after I migrate back to the Texas hill country. > > Martin > Sit tight Martin, the next big one may well move you AND your house back to Texas. Robert Bastow Who prefers hurricanes and tornados to either snow or earthquakes. I live near Kennesaw GA where every household is REQUIRED to have a gun. We don't have gangs around hereabouts! 8^) ======== Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking Subject: Re: Sheldon lathe From: Robert Bastow Date: Tue, 06 Oct 1998 10:57:31 GMT -------- > . I have no idea how much > movement is too much. On my machine the chuck moves about .125 inch--I > suspect that's about .124 inch too much. > > Thanks! Gmasterman@aol.com > > > ROTFLOL 8^) 8^) 8^) I'll give this group its due....Its a mile a minute comedy routine. Thanks for the chuckle. Robert Bastow ======== Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking Subject: Re: Expletives to be deleted From: Robert Bastow Date: Tue, 06 Oct 1998 12:05:59 GMT -------- Steve Rayner wrote: > Robert Bastow (nil_carborundum@hotmail.com) wrote: > > : "Zut...merde alors!"......a favourite french expletive does not > : translate! > : Nor does the French Canadian "Tabernac!" > > : Robert Bastow > > Rubbish! Tabernac means tabernacle, or church. French Canadian is old > French as used in the 1700s, mixed with a lot of slang. I know what it _means_as well as I know what "Zut..Merde, alors!" translates to literally. I lived for three years in France and twelve years in Canada and I speak fluent French. However the literal translation of "tabernac" to tabernacle means nothing to anyone but a French-Canadian who would expect the wrath of his priest for taking the name of the Lord's HOUSE in vain. (fer chrissakes) For someone to stand in the middle of the street in New York, London or even Paris and shout "CHURCH" at the passing traffic might get him taken into protective custody, poor sod....but not arrested for public profanity. On the other hand a French or F-C Priest, wouldn't turn a hair if you said "Sanguine' " in his presence. The word "Bloody" does not translate. There are parallels in the English speaking world. "English" English is Queens English of the twentieth century. American English is Kings English, or, as you so aptly put it...Old English of the seventeenth century, mixed with a lot of slang!! Nothing wrong with that but we are two peoples "separated by a common language". A prime example is the usage here in "Polite Company", Network TV, Sears advertisments and CNN, of the Old English word "Bugger" which is used here in the connotation of broken or bent. Particularly of threads or the flats of nuts, bolts etc. It seems that people do not use or view it as a pretty naughty expletive as it is in England, nor do they seem to make the connection between it and the crime of Buggery...Corn-holing to you.....particularly of little boys!! If my mother, or teachers, had heard me say "Bugger" I would have been thrashed within an inch of my life. But if I were to tell her that the girl next door had asked me to stop by in the morning and "Knock her up!!" Mother wouldn't have batted an eyelid, knowing that I had simple been asked to make sure the lady didn't oversleep. Try saying it to Your Mother, Wife or Significant Other!!! Yeah! Right! 8^( I rest my case 8^) Robert Bastow ======== Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking Subject: (no subject) From: Robert Bastow Date: Tue, 06 Oct 1998 12:12:05 GMT -------- Michael P. Henry wrote: > Thanks Glen. There don't seem to be any holes in the two countershaft > bushings for oil to flow through. At least I can't see any while looking > inside the bushings. They appear in decent shape. I'm wondering if oil is > supposed to diffuse from the oilers through the bushings to the shaft. If the bushings are "Oilite" (porous, sintered bronze) that is exactly what is supposed to happen. It is not "Good Practice" to drill oil holes through that type of bushing. Cheers, Robert Bastow ======== Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking Subject: Re: Expletives to be deleted From: Robert Bastow Date: Wed, 07 Oct 1998 01:41:51 GMT -------- Alden Hackmann wrote: > ">The other night on a British comedy TV show I'm surprised they let that onto > the air. It means exactly what you > think it means ;-) For British TV that is VERY mild...Childrens Hour stuff! We don't get the good stuff here...just watered down , faint facsimilies Classic example was "Sandford and Son" a barely recognisable,pablum version of the original BBC series "Steptoe and Son" which though aired in the sixties would probably carry warnings on late night pay tv here in the US today. The forerunner of "All in the Family" was "Fings ain't what they Use'ter Be" . "Archie Bunker" wouldn't have lasted two minutes in the ring with "Alf Garnett" Alf wrote the book on bigotry and intolerance and would have regarded Archie as a namby pamby, leftwing , panty waist, pinko commie, grammar school boy and would have dealt with him as such in thirty seconds flat. I doubt that "Fings" would be allowed into this country even now. It probably contravenes every hate and tree hugging law there is!! But, Dear Lord, they were FUNNY and would have you on the floor in stitches. The absoluteness of the hatred and bigotry was such that it created an awareness and distaste for the real thing in Britain . Bunker, on the other hand, was so watered down that it did the opposite and created the monster it failed to parody. People looked up to him, and thought if it was good enough for Archie Bunker, it was good enough for them. A ghastly result of unwritten and unspoken censorship!! Just my honest opinion. Robert Bastow ======== Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking Subject: Re: Expletives to be deleted From: Robert Bastow Date: Wed, 07 Oct 1998 01:55:09 GMT -------- Mike Graham wrote: > Rogering is sex the 'normal' way. > > "There once was a man from Perdue > Who found he had nothing to do, > So he took out a carrot > And rogered his parrot > And sent the result to the zoo." > It never ceases to amaze me what some people consider "normal" sex . Still Mike is from the hinterlands of "Canerderr" Eh? Rogering parrots is an art form there. Hey Mike, tell everyone why they call it "duck" tape in Canada... You wrap it round your pet duck so it doesn't explode when you "Roger" it!! Sorry Mike...but you asked for that one. I will atone. 8^) Robert Bastow ======== Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking Subject: Re: British Cars From: Robert Bastow Date: Wed, 07 Oct 1998 02:28:58 GMT -------- John Stevenson wrote: > If only we had discovered North Sea oil a few years earlier the british Motorcycle > Industry would not have died. That way we could have kept up with the leaks. > I once had an early "A" frame supension, Lotus Cortina MKI. A pretty unique car in that the first owner worked for Cosworths in Nuneaton ( Builders of the Ford Cosworth Formula I engine) and this was his Sprint car!! Turned out it Had an almost full race formula III engine with forged ,stroked and nitrided crank, overbore Hepworth forged "slipper"pistons, 5 speed ZF rear transaxle, "On/Off" Racing clutch that DID give me a hernia. Borrani wire wheels and some quite special tires from Goodyear.. Had four Weber 45DCOE carbureters with trumpets like a colliery band. It got 8 mpg steady..two if you pushed it The thing was a screamer...12000 rpm in top gear!! Fell "off the cam" at five grand and would stall out on you at 4500 The brute taught me how to REALLY drive and we had a lot of fun together. For all that it was immaculately turned out. Unusual for a Lotus Cortina which were invariably white with a light green flash, this one was in British Racing Green with a light grey flash. Grey painted wire wheels. Very striking..what a bird puller!!! I was tweny four and VERY single at the time!! ;^) It had a lot of vices, oil consumption of a quart of that lovely green Duckhams per fifty miles. Not that it burned oil..It just slung it out of every joint and gasket that Ford, Cosworths and Colin Chapman ever dreamed off. That's when I realised that oil was a dielectric..Damned thing wouldn't run unless the plugs were immersed in green gold. For all that..It is one of the few cars I have owned that I wish I had now. I hope it survived..It would be worth a Kings Ransom today. Sentimentally yours, Robert Bastow ======== Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking Subject: Expletive to be deleted From: Robert Bastow Date: Wed, 07 Oct 1998 02:53:18 GMT -------- Carl Byrns wrote: > Robert Bastow wrote: > > > English beer is served just 3 degrees warmer than US bee....shit! > Not around here ( Upstate NY). We tend to like our brew damn near frozen > in the summer and slightly warmer in the winter. I lived in Canada and Friday/Saturday Nights the border crossings were jammed both ways.Yanks heading to Canada for the stronger beer (used to knock 'em on their asses) and the strip clubs in Niagara and Windsor Ontario. Canucks heading south to buy Canadian beer cheaper in the US than Canada, to fill up with cheap gas and to cruise the easy pickins among all the delectable but neglected Buffalo Gals!! New York Beer was a tragedy..you had to freeze it down to hide the taste. If it got five degrees above absolute zero it would gag a maggot!! > > > > > There's a couple of bars around here serving English beers and ales. My > favorites are Samuel Smiths Nut Brown Ale and Tadcaster. Good stuff. Better than Genessee huh! > We also have several 'microbreweries' that produce beers that are > excellent by any standard. And, of course, Samuel Adams Boston Lager is > world-class. You gotta be shittin' me..by who's reckoning...The Delhi Llama? > > > Still... the thought of eating any part of an animals urinary tract > gives me the willies. You never tried Tripe and Onions? Very Tasty. Just don't ask!! Just as when I lived in Oklahoma (Enid) I didn't ask about the wonderful "Prairie Oyster" Like Tripe and sheeps eyeballs (yup) you just chow down and swallow What a wonderful world we share. 8^) Robert Bastow ======== Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking Subject: Re: Why turn rotors? WAS Not a great weekend From: Robert Bastow Date: Wed, 07 Oct 1998 03:01:16 GMT -------- plastic wrote: > That fuel costs far to much in England. Yeah. But you don't have to drive half a day to get anywhere. My wife commutes to work, daily, further than most English people drive on an annual vacation Robert Bastow ======== Newsgroups: alt.machines.cnc,rec.crafts.metalworking Subject: Re: Why are drill points commonly 118 deg. ? From: Robert Bastow Date: Wed, 07 Oct 1998 03:52:47 GMT -------- > > > Why are drill points commonly 118 deg. ? > > > Nobody got the right answer..which is quite simple and straight forward. The first element of design in a twist drill is the helix angle, it is what determines the cutting angle which is the equivalent of top rake on a lathe tool. Drills for soft or "stringy" material are designed with a fast helix. Drills for friable materials like Brass and Cast Iron are designed with a low or zero helix (straight flute) The vast majority of drills, including Jobbers drill are expected to be all rounders but most of the holes will be in Mild Steel I forget off hand what the exact helix angle is for a Mild Steel / general purpose/Jobbers drill. but it is the one we are all familiar with. Which brings us to the point angle. Have you ever noticed what happens if you grind a flatter point angle..all the way through to a flat bottoming drill? The flatter the included angle THE MORE CONCAVE BECOMES THE CUTTING EDGE AND THE MORE ACUTE AND FRAGILE BECOME THE OUTER LIPS. Now go the other way, grinding a more and more acute point. In this direction the lips becom even more rapidly curved in a convex direction and one very quickly reaches a point where the cutting edge is a spiral and is aproaching zero rake. The reason why a point angle of 118 deg is chosen for a "Standard" jobber type drill for mild steel is simply that at that angle the cutting edge is neither concave nor convex IT IS DEAD STRAIGHT. and the cutting angle and cutting edge thickness are optimised and constant. The curved inner surface of the flute is designed to produce this optimisation at exactly 118 degrees So now you know. Robert Bastow ======== Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking Subject: Re: Why turn rotors? WAS Not a great weekend From: Robert Bastow Date: Wed, 07 Oct 1998 04:31:18 GMT -------- plastic wrote: > I did have a series 2 Jaguar V12 and it was a dog, then I got a series > 3 and it was 100% reliable. All the Jags were imported. God they were > beautiful to drive. Yeah they kinda spoil you for anything else thats on the road. My experience mirrors yours 1st was a Series II XJCV12 2 door piilarless coupe. A dog but smooooooth wish I had it now ..they are highly sought after. 2nd was a Series III XJV12 1989..the very last of the series and a very reliable and refined car I did 189000 miles in it with nothing but routine maintenance. Plugs were changed at 90,000 averaged 18 mpg around town and 23 on a run. 22 pints of oil for an oil change. (I didn't say cheap) 3rd 1995 XJV12 6 liter and the last of the breed. Absolutely superlative vehicle..cannot fault it. Will go faster from 60 to 120 than most "sports cars" can get 0-60 Total delight to drive, docile,silent and smooth. But that pussy cat can growl when you need it. Finished in Black Cherry...this is a Keeper. Interestingly, Insurance cost is very reasonable, My Agent told me that in terms of vehicle/miles/fatalities they are the safest car on the road in N America with not a single recorded fatality in an XJV12!! The reasons are..not many about. As I recall mine was one of only 42 sold in 96 and the only Jaguar on the whole continent painted this color! Age and experience of drivers. The few young people that can afford them want something flashier. The safety of superb handling acceleration ad stopping power can get you out of situations where lesser cars would have a major accident. Last but by no means least..they are built like a tank. and at something approaching 5000 pounds would plow straight through most cars (and a lot of trucks) without noticeable deceleration!! Robert Bastow ======== Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking Subject: Re: British Cars From: Robert Bastow Date: Wed, 07 Oct 1998 05:07:07 GMT -------- Ron Moore wrote: > Silly question, I'm sure, but how did it have 4 dual throat webers on a 4 cyl engine? Just > curoius. > Respectfully, > Ron Moore > > Robert Bastow wrote: > > > .. Had four Weber > > 45DCOE carbureters with trumpets like a colliery band. It got 8 mpg steady..two if you > > pushed it ......... > > You are correct......brain fart......two twinchokes = four monster chokes (for an 1860cc engine!!) Look down the trumpet and blip the throttle, it was, I swear, like turning on a bathroom faucet. I only did that one time! ======== Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking Subject: Re: Expletive to be deleted From: Robert Bastow Date: Wed, 07 Oct 1998 06:11:26 GMT -------- Carl Byrns wrote: > Buffalo? You went to Buffalo to pick women? I knew things were bad in > Canada, but not that bad! I didn't say _I_ did, just half the male population of southern ontarioLooking for an American Wife!!We used to say a Canadian is someone who can't get a Green Card!! Speaking of Canadian women. This American guy is talking to a friend in a bar and he says, " I can't stand Canadians, they are all either whores or hockey players" There is a tap on his shoulder and he turns to look up,and up, into the eyes of the biggest meanest looking SOB he had ever set eyes on. 'I heard what you said about Canadians" says the big guy. "I'll have you know, my wife is from Canada" "Oh!" says the little guy, "What position does she play?" > Now, now. Genny Cream Ale is an ideal winter/summer coolant :-) Also > good for occasional irregularity. Real good, in fact. I guess if I were real hot I might pour it on my head too I know about its purging effects...thats why I don't drink it. > Metalworking content: I cook on cast iron. I just converted a cast iron sauce pan into a grinding wheel guard Ain't Life great? Robert Bastow ======== Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking Subject: Re: Why turn rotors? WAS Not a great weekend From: Robert Bastow Date: Wed, 07 Oct 1998 17:20:12 GMT -------- Fitch R. Williams wrote: > My Dad had an XK140 fixed head coupe followed by a XK150 Drop Head Coupe back in > the lathe 1950s. I recall that it took quite a slug of oil. the engine and > drive train were near perfection except that the synchromesh on the transmission > wasn't particularely wonderful, and it had a really really long throw from first > to second. The rest of the car was a continual PITA in Michigan. Doors would > freeze shut at night, disc brakes on the 150 were totally allergic to the > chloride used on the roads and pads were major expensive. Dad loved both of > them but only drove the 140 45K miles and the 150 about a 50K before selling > them. > > do they still have the same inline DOHC six with the nice sounding chain drive > cams? Nobody ever bought a Jaguar just for transportation! The old DOHC Six was replaced by SOHC six in, I believe, 1997. That, and the V12 have been replaced by a V8 in the last couple of years Very nice engine but I will miss the turbine-like smoothness of the V12. However, they do have a supercharged version of the V8 in the XJR. I test drove one. The handling is superb and the performance is shattering. It's on order!! My wife wants the XJV12. Robert Bastow JagNut! ======== Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking Subject: Re: Chicken and egg From: Robert Bastow Date: Wed, 07 Oct 1998 17:26:17 GMT -------- Fitch R. Williams wrote: > Sure has, we should be discussing how to get the 500mph chicken to lay an egg > with proper spin! > > Fitch > In So. Cal. > Egg and chicken are making love. Suddenly the egg stops, rolls off and lights a cigarette. Chicken says, " I guess that answers_that_question!" Robert Bastow ======== Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking Subject: Re: How to deburr narrow slot in tube From: Robert Bastow Date: Wed, 07 Oct 1998 19:45:17 GMT -------- PLAlbrecht wrote: > I'm cutting 1/32 wide slots in 1/4 OD thinwall aluminum tubing, 7/32 ID. > Anybody have any good ideas on how to deburr the underside of these slots? I > > > Is there a dedicated deburring tool for this sort of job? I looked through > pages of deburring tooks in MSC and didn't find anything that looked suitable. > > Pete Make a dedicated scraper. Use 3/16 drill rod, square the end, . mill a flat 60 thou deep starting 1/16 back from the end.(this will leave a stiffer shank than simply turning it down) Harden the end and temper to a medium straw. sharpen the other end and bang on a handle of your choice, Hone the buisness end and use with a push or pull actin or both, according to preference. Tip: If you ever need to deburr a drilled hole internally, say after countersinking. Use the original size drill in a pin chuck and PUSH it straight in and out--do not twist it! 8^) Robert Bastow ======== Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking Subject: Re: Sheldon lathe problem From: Robert Bastow Date: Wed, 07 Oct 1998 21:42:30 GMT -------- Brad Heuver wrote: > >I have a 10" Sheldon [pre war].With the halfnuts engaged I get .018" end > >play of the apron. Most often the wear in a leadscrew is at the headstock end, for obvious reasons. A quick and inexpensive fix is to swap the leadscrew end for end and bring the little used tailstock end to the much used headstock end. Obviusly some cut and shut modifications will be required, but these are well within the capabilities of most machinists. New nuts would be adviseable but thes are easy to make. This may be the only solution for an obsolete lathe (other than an expensive custom leadscrew.) Robert Bastow Who has done it a couple of times ======== Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking Subject: Re: align-boring engine blocks.. From: Robert Bastow Date: Wed, 07 Oct 1998 21:49:22 GMT -------- Jan Ben wrote: > > > Can you think of a way to do it w. "proper" machine shop techniques, e.g > on a vert or Horiz. mill maybe? > Thx > Jan The "proper machine shop way" would be to do it on a Horizontal Boring Mill Check around your local Jobbing Machine Shops, it shouldn't be difficult to find one. Failing that, an excellent substitute is a large lathe, with a between-centers boring bar and the block strapped to the carriage and packed up to bring the bore on center height. Robert Bastow ======== Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking Subject: Re: Stolen Suburbans From: Robert Bastow Date: Thu, 08 Oct 1998 01:41:40 GMT -------- Charles Gallo wrote: > What I was going to do was coat it with DMSO and Lemon > juice. I like that one. What is DSMO and where can it be obtained? Robert Bastow ======== Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking Subject: Re: align-boring engine blocks.. From: Robert Bastow Date: Thu, 08 Oct 1998 01:49:07 GMT -------- Erich Coiner wrote: > I think the real question is, will there be any meat left in the main > bearing caps after you open them up .2 inches? If in doubt, fit new thicker steel ones before boring. Not difficult to flame cut from plate and mill to fit. We used to fit home made steel bearing caps to our Race/Rally blocks before align-boring on a lathe as I previously outlined. We went up .125 to .180 in size to suit new forged steel Raceing cranks. Robert Bastow ======== Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking Subject: Re: Why turn rotors? WAS Not a great weekend From: Robert Bastow Date: Thu, 08 Oct 1998 02:28:38 GMT -------- Wayne Cook wrote: > . I can get 3 phase > anytime I want and can probably get it for little to no money (it > helps to be friends with the local head of the power company ..... > ...............so when I need 3 phase to my new shop (going up > in the next year I hope) to tell him and he'll see what he can do. > > Wayne Cook > Shamrock TX As ever...It is not what you know..It is who you know, that knows how! ======== Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking Subject: Re: Expletive to be deleted From: Robert Bastow Date: Thu, 08 Oct 1998 05:08:09 GMT -------- Chilton Gregory wrote: > And then there's haggis...... > > Chilton Och aye mon, noo yer i' ma parrrticulah arrreah o' experrrtise! "haggis" , spelled wi' a wee "h" is use t' denote the boiled specimen consumed by everry true Scot on Rabbie Burrns' nacht, ( and many a Sassenach fewl the noo ye ken) 'tis an aquired flavorr te be sure, aboot five generrations aught t' do it! But the rrreal joy o' a guide Haggis (the use o' th'capital denotes th' live specimen..t' them that ken, ye ken) Och mon 'tis a delecht, on a braw, brecht, moonlecht necht, to stalk the wee buiggers i' the gloamin' o'er hill an' glen. Harrrd stalkin'ye ken. ye canna shuit the wee beasties o' accoont 'o therrr s'quick, the little buiggers will jump the musket ball an' be ower in th' next shire aforr the smoke has ceased t'borrn yer guid eye, ye ken. Och noo mon, ye have t' ruin doon the wee sods t' beat the life oot o th' puir wee buiggers wi' a guid big stick ye ken. Ah! hoo the puir Haggis sets a greetin' when a' furrst ye crack his wee heed, Ye has t' bang the buiggers prettty harrd ye ken, for they're tough wee sods. If yer borrn i' Bonnie Sco'land ye ha' tae be tough ye ken. Ye ken,we stalk the Haggis i' Novemberr. The tough wee beasties haftae hang fa a guide two months, an'then be boiled fae another guide month tae be guid an' tender fae the Burrns night. Rabbie Bastow ======== Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking Subject: Re: Stolen Suburbans From: Robert Bastow Date: Thu, 08 Oct 1998 05:49:43 GMT -------- I hope everyone is taking into account the fact that, although you may not be able to pursue the perp, legally, south of the border, he can legally pursue YOU, north of the border. IIRC you do not have to be a legal resident or a US Citizen to bring a civil case in a US court. Given the number of litiginous, ambulance chasing, low life pond scum suckers in California...you guys are talking about creating a whole new market for them. If you are going to do anything, best kill the perps..You stand a better chance of not being extradited to Old Mehico for wasting a low life than you do defending yourself against a multimillion dollar, demonstrably provable, premeditated, bodily harm law suit for giving a scum bag belly ache. If you persist in your current line of reasoning, I for one, am going to register in a Californian law school. There's gold in them there thrills! 8^) Robert Bastow ======== Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking Subject: Re: Stolen Suburbans From: Robert Bastow Date: Thu, 08 Oct 1998 12:24:34 GMT -------- Don Foreman wrote: > Maybe they're just kidding and I'm over-reacting -- but look at some of > this stuff that's being posted! Perhaps these people watch too much TV. > I really wish TV and movies would quit trivializing the matter of killing > people. They make it look like cutting down a tree -- just a thing a man's > gotta do when he's gotta do it, no big deal. Wrongo! > > I skipped the part about consequences -- beyond the TV stuff of lawyers and > trials. If a man steals my truck, I'd be angry but I'd collect the > insurance and be more careful about securing the new one. Been there, done > that. > > If my kid stole someone's truck, she'd be wrong for doing that and > would deserve to be punished. If she is killed for that, the guy that > killed her need not worry about social security. As said, we all have our > thresholds. > > I'm of Finnish extraction -- generally thought of as slow and docile > people, difficult to provoke. Think about how a Mexican might react in a > similar scenario. I wonder if the hot-trigger posters have thought things > through that far. > > But after your comment, Mr. North, I shall shut the hell up on this > matter right now. Hopefully most of the "kill-em" posts are empty swagger, > and I sure don't need to be publicly judged and labelled as having > homicidal tendencies for trying to get people to think about what they're > saying. > > Regards > > Foreman > At Last a voice of reason, Lets leave the Rambo stuff on alt.guns.politics Go check it out....it will make you sick and scared. Robert Bastow ======== Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking Subject: Re: homemade abrasive waterjet cutter From: Robert Bastow Date: Thu, 08 Oct 1998 13:01:43 GMT -------- Rev Chuck wrote: > Why not just leave some empty space in the water tank and feed a > carburetor into it? Shoot some fuel into the tank and spark it, let > the expanding vapors push the water through the nozzle. Ok..Ok, already, This is getting beyond the bounds of reason! First thing, you are talking about generating 50,000 psi...Quickly! Very Quickly! This is the pressure level inside a high powered rifle breech! We are talking about pressure vessels the size of a howitzer! The only "fuel" that will generate these kinds of pressure levels are nitro based propellants, "gunpowder"! Gasoline won't hack it. Given the wrong circumstances, propellants that burn fast enough for this application, will detonate. Not something you'd want in your basement. Don't even think about the liability insurance premiums if you want to market it commercially. Go back and read some of the earlier posts from some real experts. Fluids, even distilled water, at these pressure levels are dangerous..don't fuck with them! How many diesel, or hydraulic mechanics do you know that have never been hurt by pinpoint leaks, some of them badly? Are you ready to sacrifice a hand, an eye, or a testicle (happened to a buddy of mine..working on a fork lift truck!) to the furtherance of home shop machining? I know a lot of this stuff is tongue in cheek, some of it from experts who are well aware of this fact. There ar a lot of very knowledgeable and experienced people in this group but with knowledge comes responsibility. Just consider how many times a week we get a posting that says "Hi I'm new to this stuff". This is a public forum to which people come to learn from "we" (collectively, ) the experts! Remember what Goebbels(SP) said: " If you repeat something often enough, people will believe it" That cost the life of millions of people. I'm sure nobody on this list wants even the tiniest contribution to a death or maiming on their concience! At least if you are going to post something YOU know is dangerous YOU should attatch a warning "Don't try this at home in your living room children" Kidding? No, not really! Two cents for what it is worth. 8^) Robert Bastow ======== Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking Subject: Re: Tiny belts From: Robert Bastow Date: Thu, 08 Oct 1998 13:43:53 GMT -------- Ian Bee wrote: > Yeah......I make special effects stuff, and I use the O Ring Splicing > Kit from R S Componenets here in Australia, although I beleieve that > they are an International Company. > > Cinch to use, just cut the desired length of O ring material, drop it > into a jig & glue, sets in seconds, and is unbeleivably hard to break, I > kid you not. > > Our stuff has run for years on these belts.......best of luck!!!!!!!! > > Ian Hi Ian,An excellent suggestion!You can get a similar and even stronger effect with round (or even vee section) polyurethane belting. Available at any belting suppliers, it comes in sections right down to 1/16th (or maybe less) Buy it by the foot. It is joined by heating and butt welding. In a pinch put an old knife blade in the vice, heat it to the point where th P-U just starts to "Slide" Gently press the two end to each side of the blade and when they soften quickly remove and press together until they cool. Remove flash with a sharp blade or on a grinder is better. Do not over heat as this will seriously weaken the joint. It takes a little practice but makes a first class belt. Small jigs of the sliding vee block type are available. Ask to see one and go make it!! I once designed, manufactured and marketed a spring loaded, tong type tool, and an electrically heated, teflon coated blade for the job. It is still on the market 'cause I get a royalty check every month...what I call "Mail Box Money" 8^) This is not a plug..so I'm not going to tell you the brand name or the supplier. There are several equally good copies available...but mine was the FIRST!! Robert Bastow ======== Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking Subject: Re: Van Norman Milling Machine From: Robert Bastow Date: Thu, 08 Oct 1998 13:50:02 GMT -------- gfulton wrote: > There will be an auction soon in a town near me of an old machine shop. I > stopped and talked to the fellow that is retiring yesterday and he's got a > '40's vintage Van Norman milling machine. Works in either horizontal or > vertical mode, presently in vertical. Has the full set of gear cutters. > Says it was rebuilt a few years ago, new bearings, etc. I was wondering > what a good bid on this machine would be as it's the right size for my small > garage and if the company is still in business, parts availability, etc. I > am admittedly a rank amateur with just a Shoptask at present. Thanks for > any help. > > Garrett Fulton > > gfulton@ctc.net This is an excellent machine for the home shop. If it is reasonable shape, will fit in your shop and you can afford it, pay whatever you are comfortable with to get it. If you don't want it, please let me know the name etc. of the auctioneer....Off line off course. 8^) Robert Bastow ======== Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking Subject: Re: How to deburr narrow slot in tube From: Robert Bastow Date: Thu, 08 Oct 1998 14:08:02 GMT -------- The best cure is, of course, prevention. Slide a close fitting plug of the same material inside the tube and use a VERY sharp cutter. You won't have a burr! Of course this is sacrifical of the plug material but the same piece will do a lot of tubes by rotating and swapping ends, On a Mass Production basis this would be done on a fixture with a closely fitted hardened plug with an accurately ground slot. Deburring would be done with abrasive blasting, tumbling, a bench mounted, rotating, wire brush on an extension mandril..or the aformentioned custom scraper. Yer pays yer money..yer takes yer choice! 8^) Robert Bastow ======== Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking Subject: Re: align-boring engine blocks.. From: Robert Bastow Date: Thu, 08 Oct 1998 22:33:11 GMT -------- brian wrote: > Robert, what material did you use for the caps, and what heat treat (if any) did > you give them? I've fabricated straps for main caps, from mild steel, and they > were just fine, but I've never made complete main caps before. If you heat > treated them was it before or after rough boring on the block? You'd have to do > the final hone after any treating, I'd guess... It is a long time ago...1966/69..but I do recall we flame cut the caps from HR Plate which was already blanchard ground to thickness. They were then milled on face and width drilled and mounted. We would mill the seat sfew thou lower to give us a machining allowance. No heat treating was done, before or after line boring. We didn't have the tackle to hone so we just bored 'em to dead size. Never had one break, 'cept once when I rear ended a Rover 3 Litre. Totalled the Ford but he didn't even stop at the scene...I genuinly believe he never felt it!! These were mostly 120E blocks, some three bearing, five, when they started appearing in scrap yards. We would stuff them in Anglias and the older Populars. The three bearing 997cc Anglia opened up and stroked to 1100cc, cross flow head and some wild cam work was a screamer. We could only get ten thousand rev tacos and we would bend the needle against the stops. I had a 997 that was clapped out and decided to break it on purpose..every one said the 3 bearing motor was fragile. Baloney I was taking it over 12,000 revs and the sucker Wouldn't break. I finally topped it by dropping the clutch, in second gear, doing 90 down a steep hill. I'll swear that motor did 20K before it exploded. Not the bottom end though! I think I vaporised the springs and collets, dropped the valves and you can imagine the rest!! Couldn't have done a better job with an Exocet missile!! 8^) > > > I'd also guess that just about any billet steel material main cap would be > stronger than it's cast iron equivalent. Any actual knowledge of this? Two to three times as strong/stiff. And it's stiffness that counts. ;^) > Also, since you're an ex-brit who obviously played with Ford Kent based engines > in the bad old days, have you ever heard of Martin engines? I have an 1865cc > Martin, circa 1966, based on the Ford 120E block, with a 12 valve alloy cylinder > head, push-rod, two gear cam drive, 82mm stroke, 85mm bore. I'm running it in a > 1965 Merlyn MK6A sports racer... > > Cheers, Brian Never Heard the Martin, but it may well have been one of the multitude of Formula Ford engine builders. There were a lot of outfits following the Cosworth/Lotus lead in developing these engines. Sounds very like the Cosworth mill I had in my Lotus Cortina...same bore/stroke/displacement. 1865cc was the absolute outer limit for that block if you weren't to be able to crumple it in your hands. With the twin cam Xflow heads, 45DCOE Webers etc they were approaching 2OO bhp..at the wheels!! That's well over a bhp per cc. I chuckle even today when I read of "high performance" engines here that don't come close to 1 bhp per Cubic INCH. Those WERE the days my friends. 8^) Robert Bastow ======== Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking Subject: Re: Aluminum Materials From: Robert Bastow Date: Thu, 08 Oct 1998 22:37:24 GMT -------- zj wrote: > Looking for aluminum? We offer light weight aluminum and stainless steel. > You can order online. Contact us with any questions. > http://www.thermsulate.com Any one here ever come across HEAVY weight aluminum? Robert Bastow In a playful mood 8^) ======== Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking Subject: Re: British Cars From: Robert Bastow Date: Thu, 08 Oct 1998 23:07:37 GMT -------- Paul Amaranth wrote: > The 7 was a pretty lousy car. The 7 was an UGLY lousy car!! Looked like a flying cheese dish. > (I'm putting together a Stag whose V8 engine........ > I remember the Stag as a nice car with a lousy engine. Block and heads had permanent, terminal tendency to warp. What made it a really nice car was the conversion to the Rover V8. This started life as the small alloy block BuickV8. One of those might fit your Stag. I wouldn't recommend spending money on the Triumph V8 Robert Bastow ======== Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking Subject: Re: What are CNC machines used for ? From: Robert Bastow Date: Fri, 09 Oct 1998 03:19:21 GMT -------- I think you have had enough good reasons why CNC reigns supreme in Industry. But if they haven't convinced you maybe this one will. IMHO the biggest advantage of CNC is that it has freed up a whole bunch of good quality machine tools that the home shop machinists can buy at reasonable prices! IMHO the one and only benefit of NAFTA to the average stiff, is exactly the same thing. Robert Bastow Average Stiff ======== To: Erich Coiner Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking Subject: Re: align-boring engine blocks.. From: Robert Bastow Date: Fri, 09 Oct 1998 20:14:43 GMT -------- Erich Coiner wrote: > Jan, > > When you get this project all sorted out, I would like to know the > details for increasing the displacement on the Buick 215. I have all > ways wanted to do a project using that motor. > I was doing web searches on Buick 215 and remember finding a site that > indicated that somebody is making a bellhousing and trans adapter that > allows you to use a Borg Warner T5 tranny. That is a great solution for > a front engine rear drive car. > > Good luck, > > Erich Hi Erich, I may be mistaken, but is the Buick 215 the engine that was bought by Rover in the UK and produced as the Rover 3.5 V8? If so, you might want to find one of those..they are used in the Range Rover, and one helluva engine!! ======== To: John Stevenson Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking Subject: Re: Are you all strange? From: Robert Bastow Date: Fri, 09 Oct 1998 20:35:41 GMT -------- John Stevenson wrote: > Not really I just class Harleys with all the other BS brands that sell by pure hype. > To me they are as technical advanced as a cinder block. > In fact a cinder block is more pleasing to the eye. [ the grey type that is, the > white one compares to the electro glide ] > > Regards, > > John Stevenson at > iiiiiIIIIIIIINNNNNN.............COMMMMMIIIIIIIIiiiiiiiiiigg !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! Robert ======== To: Ron Moore Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking Subject: Re: British Cars From: Robert Bastow Date: Fri, 09 Oct 1998 20:46:39 GMT -------- Ron Moore wrote: > I have a 71 Stag with the original Triump engine having been balanced and > blueprinted. Has a NICE rip to it. > Respectfully, > Ron Moore > > Robert Bastow wrote: > > > Paul Amaranth wrote: > > > > > The 7 was a pretty lousy car. > > > > The 7 was an UGLY lousy car!! Looked like a flying cheese dish. > > > > > (I'm putting together a Stag whose V8 engine........ > > > > > > > I remember the Stag as a nice car with a lousy engine. Block and heads had > > permanent, terminal tendency to warp. > > > > What made it a really nice car was the conversion to the Rover V8. This started > > life as the small alloy block BuickV8. > > One of those might fit your Stag. I wouldn't recommend spending money on the > > Triumph V8 > > > > Robert Bastow Granted, but you do need to be aware that the Stag engine had a nasty reputation of warping..just a caveat FWIIW By the way, outside of the Buggatti engine the sweetest rip I ever heard was the fuel injected (UK version) TR6. Pure music on the original factory tailpipes..after market exhaust systems never could reproduce it. I used to drive mine "Harry-flatters" with the lid down, just to listen to the "music". Robert ======== To: PLAlbrecht Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking Subject: Re: British Cars From: Robert Bastow Date: Fri, 09 Oct 1998 20:53:25 GMT -------- PLAlbrecht wrote: > Then he put a Rover V8 in it and that put an end to the snide comments. > It has already been pointed out that this remarkable British engine started > life (many engineering redesigns ago) as a Buick engine. Another item GM tossed > on the scrap heap of history, to be picked up, dusted off, and made viable by > others. > > Pete I had one of these great engines in a Rover 3500S (Manual 4 speed) Helluva Sleeper!! My understanding is that Rover paid $100,000.00 for the design AND the entire production line and tooling. This must rank with the Louisiana Purchase as one of the all-time best deals in human history!! Robert ======== To: chilton@unm.edu Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking Subject: Re: Expletive to be deleted From: Robert Bastow Date: Fri, 09 Oct 1998 21:02:49 GMT -------- ======== To: chilton@unm.edu Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking Subject: Re: Expletive to be deleted From: Robert Bastow Date: Fri, 09 Oct 1998 21:03:43 GMT -------- Chilton Gregory wrote: > Ne govorish dobro engleski jesik! > > I tambien porque vivo en nuevo mexico, mi gusta muchisimo el menudo.. > > Chilton HUH?? Robert ======== To: Felice Luftschein & Nicholas Carter Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking Subject: Re: Stolen Suburbans From: Robert Bastow Date: Sat, 10 Oct 1998 02:25:36 GMT -------- Felice Luftschein & Nicholas Carter wrote: but my wife is jewish and as > far as I'm concerned the only good nazi is a dead nazi. > Unless you like Quisling, Vichy et al, I think all you europeans will > agree with me. Think it can't happen? Look at Kosovo. Here, Here. You got my vote. Robert Bastow ======== To: PLAlbrecht Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking Subject: Re: Stolen Suburbans From: Robert Bastow Date: Sat, 10 Oct 1998 02:35:40 GMT -------- PLAlbrecht wrote: > Felice Luftschein said > > And who gets to clean up > Europe's soiled diapers again? Yup. American troops again. And my tax dollars. > And we won't get so much as a thank-you. > > Pete Absolutely, but somebody HAS to do it! With authority and capability comes responsibility, and facing up to one's moral responsibility simply for, or in expectation of, "gratitude" would be to debase the whole thing. Robert Bastow ======== To: Myjakjs Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking Subject: Re: How do you mill a cube accurately From: Robert Bastow Date: Sat, 10 Oct 1998 02:41:30 GMT -------- Myjakjs wrote: > What do experienced machinists do ? > > Here's how I square up blocks. > Machine one side with the flycutter as you did. > Rotate 90 placing machined side against fixed jaw. Use a rod between rough side > and movable jaw & tighten. > After machining that side rotate part so the side you just machined is on > bottom & tighten with rod again. > Now you can put part in vise & cut the side opposite your first cut. > Use a square to line up the block for the fifth side. > Note -the jaw has to be square to start with. > > John Myjakjys, If you are 'LISTENING" this is the way an experienced machinist would do it!! (Thankyou John, you saved me a whole lot of "hunt and peck" 8^) Robert Bastow ======== Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking Subject: Re: How do you mill a cube accurately From: Robert Bastow Date: Sat, 10 Oct 1998 02:51:33 GMT -------- Steve Austin wrote: > > >I'm trying to mill a cast iron cube as accurately as I can with a > > >fly-cutter. > > > The most accurate flycutting techniques on a milling machine will > approximate those used on a surface grinder. Your part will have > been roughed in. Your table will be stoned flat. You will use > an angle block that's as true as you can get it and prove. Clamp > the part to the angle with kant twist clamps and lightly clamp > the block to the table with your standard table clamps. Take > light cuts. You will use a surface plate and an indicator to set > up and prove your 90 degree angles. > > Steve A. And starve to death as a machinist!! You have introduced an un-neccessary and guaranteed inaccurate second element in the angle plate. What is wrong with , and more accurate than the machine table and rear vise jaw as primary referenc and clampin surfaces? Robert Bastow ======== To: Erich Coiner Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking Subject: Re: Stolen Suburbans From: Robert Bastow Date: Sat, 10 Oct 1998 03:41:47 GMT -------- Erich Coiner wrote: > It sounds like you guys need to build the device I saw at my Uncles > Ranch in Oklahoma. (Just outside of wide spot known as Byers, NE of > Paul's Valley but I digress) > My sister in law dubbed this thing the "heifer hefter" > > > > Cows did not like this machine but it didn't seem to hurt them. > > Seems a bit rough for horses but you never know. > > Erich Sounds like cows and maybe horses have the same weak spot as dogs do. From experience I can assure you...no matter how nasty, vicious, or powerful a dog is, if you can manage to grab it around the mid-section and lift it bodily off the floor, it is "game over". The brute will hang immobile in your arms...they don't like losing contact with the ground and go totaly to pieces when they do. It is up to you to figure out where to go from there. The fastest way to immobilise, and kill a vicious dog is to grab its front paws and jerk its legs apart as far as they will go, perpendicular to its chest. This collapses its chest and lungs and compresses its heart. Failing that thrust your hand far back into its mouth and grab hold of its lower jaw. With your other hand, grab its upper jaw, and tear the two apart. In case anyone is wondering if I am a dog hater or sadist, let me assure you, quite the opposite. I love dogs, I breed and train Dobermans, I speak "dog" and given the choice, most times I prefer the company of a dog to that of a human being. But in this world of "Trained attack dogs", brutalised pit bulls, inbred shepherds, and a general media overhype, I feel that the thinking person should understand the general risk and remedies. The dog hasn't been born that could take down and kill a knowledgeable, fit, and determined adult Human Being. Note: I didn't say it couldn't hurt you, it can..big time! FWIIW Robert Bastow FWIIW, Hoping it may save someone's ass in the future. Robert Bastow ======== Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking Subject: Re: machine keysetters for sale From: Robert Bastow Date: Sat, 10 Oct 1998 04:12:03 GMT -------- WGalcik wrote: > i have a davis keyseater set #da-17-2 cutter type( a f a) for sale > 1/16 -3/4 plus some extras . 14 broaches in all plus 2 wood boxes. > contact walter, WGALCIK@A0L.COM Walter, You are wasting your time and (more importantly) our time by not posting a price (best offer won't hack it) age and condition is a must and location doesn't hurt. You are more than welcome to try again. Robert Bastow ======== Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking Subject: Re: identity of carbon steel part? From: Robert Bastow Date: Sat, 10 Oct 1998 04:33:23 GMT -------- Robert A. Lodder, Ph.D. wrote: > I am hoping that someone has seen something like these objects before > (bearing1.jpg and bearing2.jpg in the drop box at > http://www.metalworking.com/dropbox/). They are both carbon steel in > composition. One is brass-plated. The composition has been confirmed > by xray fluorescence spectrometry. Possible uses that have been > suggested for the objects are valves, tapered roller bearings, or "feet" > for a box or cabinet. Only place I recall seeing similar objects was as a peining medium in a tumbling machine. FWIIW Robert Bastow ======== Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking Subject: Re:One Mans Perspective From: Robert Bastow Date: Sat, 10 Oct 1998 14:21:01 GMT -------- PLAlbrecht wrote, regarding the reasons for the American Revolution and throwing off the yoke of the"tyrannical British": > Agree, the U.S. (and Australia, and Canada, and the other former colonies) owe > much to Britain as the mother country. We just think we've had a chance to do > it better over here. (As do you in Australia.) Absolutely True! I am from the Old Country and chose to emigrate to N. America in 1976, since when I have spent about half my time in Canada and half in the Good Old US of A. I hold dual American /British Citizenship, and my beautiful wife is from "Olde Alabamie" Many times I have been asked why I came here, and whether or not I would ever consider returning to the UK. My response, in simplified terms is this: IMHO Britain was the founder of modern civilisation, the concept of civil rights and democracy (Magna Carta,Elected representation, trial by peers etc) and led the world in this until the 18th century when it seems to have become set in its ways and further progress has been slow. I have no problem with a Constitutional Monarch..Which means the people own the Monarchy, not the other way round, and the Monarch reigns only so long as the people allow.So far as I am concerned it is cheaper than a Presidency, garners way more in tourist dollars than it costs, and removes the Titular Head of State from any power or influence in the running of the country. I like the fact that any government can be brought down at any moment by a majority of one vote in a "Motion of No Confidence" and a General Election called to elect a new government. Wouldn't that have been nice, here in the United States over the past few months. I think it is WAY past the time to get rid of the hereditary peerage! (Britains equivalent?? to the Senate) It is also way past time to smash the "Class System" where one is judged by where, and who, you come from socially as opposed to what you have achieved personally. As the son of a coal miner and a coal miner's daughter, who broke out of that mould, I hit the "Glass Ceiling" at the age of twenty three!! That was the moment I decided to leave and it took me ten more years to "work my passage" over here. No I will never return to live in England, 'tho' there is a lot that I miss culture wise. It is a wonderful place to come from, and a wonderful place to visit, but IMHO a lousy place to live!! My feeling is that the "baton" of modern democracy, was dropped by Britain in the 18th Century and picked up by the United States of America. Sure, there have been many stumbles along the way, and there are many more to come! But this Country is only 222 years old, a toddler in historical time spans. (a helluva toddler for a' that!!!!) We have a long way to go, and a lot of problems that will not be solved in our lifetime's, but we are on the right track and at last starting to take a hard earned lead in the world on a moral basis rather than simply on a power basis. I would choose no other place on earth to live and bring up my children!! We are not perfect..but be patient..God isn't finished with us yet! One Mans Perspective. Robert Bastow ======== Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking Subject: Re: Stolen Suburbans From: Robert Bastow Date: Sat, 10 Oct 1998 15:37:15 GMT -------- Mike Graham wrote: > .................................................................. though I've used the > 'throat jab' method to train dogs to not bite (these aren't viscious > dogs, just young dogs that haven't lost the puppy habit of nipping > fingers etc.; my young beagle used to always grab my nose with those > needle-sharp teeth of his. OW!). Anyway, when he goes for my fingers > I stick them down his throat. Doesn't hurt him; he gags then jumps > back into the fray. > > Mike Graham We certainly have the same approach to training dogs. A well bred Doberman has a genetic program to guard, never to attack! Sure they have the equipment, speed and power, to make a real mess of someone. Not that I fancy either but I would rather take on a pit bull that a Dobe. Pit bulls instinctively grab and hang on and that gives you the chance to disable it. Dobes slash repeatedly, at hight speed, will never let you "get inside" and would cut you to ribbons! Except they don't have the instinct to do that..they make an exceptionally good guard dog, but the only way to make an "attack" dog out of a dobe is to brutalise it..and I mean BRUTALISE!! I know this is done...by sickos!! Of course I am excluding the cross bred and inbred kind of "Junkyard Dog" from this generalisation. I brought up all my pups to be unaware of the fact that they had a powerful weapon in their teeth, and NEVER to use them around people. This starts right at the puppy stage when any amount of rough and tumble is acceptable, but the instant they nip it is corrected by a tap of the finger on the nose..every single time without fail. Trained this way (and in obedience etc. of course) the Dobe is a wonderful family dog..all my kids were brought up with dobes...who were very protective but liked nothing better than to rough and tumble with the kids. They never used their superior strength, and NEVER nipped at them! Even when poked up the bum with a pencil, or being ridden like a motor cycle, with their ears used as the handle bars and throttle!! When pushed too far , they would simply dump the child and withdraw. They loved riding in vehicles and I wouldn't have hesitated to leave a brace in my Bronco parked in downtown Atlanta (temperature permitting), with the door unlocked! Ain't NOBODY gonna mess with that truck! Robert Bastow ======== Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking Subject: Re: How to Cut Steel with a saw? From: Robert Bastow Date: Sat, 10 Oct 1998 17:10:20 GMT -------- Red Rider wrote: > The way it works is the friction from the blade gets the metal you are > cutting white hot and it is easily pushed out of the way as slag. The blade > gets hot but doesn't change color, as the moving edge of the blade is acting > against the non-moving part being cut, and heat doesn't build up fast on the > blade. A number of years ago I worked with a company that produced vibratory bowl feeder systems. The primary construction was 1/8" 300 series Stainless Steel. All the cutting of this material was don on friction bandsaws, running at wood cutting speeds and feeding by hand at about th speed you would feed 1/2" plywood. These were, in the main, large, high powered, industrial bandsaws but we did buy a couple of asian built 14" wood cutting bandsaws for odd job cutting. In the interests of longer blade guide life, we converted them to ball bearing guides..just like their bigger brothers. The special friction cutting blads were used for the larger machines but on the smaller ones a regular 18 tooth metal cutting saw blade was used. Obviously,, at woodcutting speeds on SS, the blade soon lost its "sharpness"..probably in the first 1/4" of cutting but thereafter it settled down to a long and successful life as a friction saw. This usage does not strip all the teeth off as one may expect, it simply reforms them into a shape remarkeably similar to the teeth on a regular friction cutting blade. I have tried this at home on my delta 14" band saw which is not yet fitted with a speed reducer. It works like gangbusters on steel sheet up to 1/8'' thick. I use regular wood cutting blades to cut aluminum up to 1" thick with great success. Using WD40 as a lubricant the blades last longer on aluminum than they do on hardwoods and plywood. I guess the aluminum is far less abrasive. This, I am sure will work well on the tubing in question, I would hold the tube in a vee block in order to present the blade with a corner to cut thro' rather than a 1" high slab of tube wall on edge. Robert Bastow ======== Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking Subject: Re: Info on monster lathe; J Butler From: Robert Bastow Date: Sat, 10 Oct 1998 23:35:11 GMT -------- Mike Graham wrote: > A friend of mine who's a woodworker has a really big metal lathe > that I'd be interested in getting a bit of info on. Unfortunately, I > can't get at the main I.D. plate of it (it's behind a bunch of stored > stuff) but the tailstock has a plate that reads "J Butler & Co" makers > of fine machine tools blah blah "Halifax, England". The bed on this > puppy is about 6', and it was originally wide-belt driven. It's got a > gearbox that can shift on the fly (!) and apparently it has some > pretty funky features; it can cut threads as heavy as 1 tpi. I'm > sure there are bigger lathes out there, but this one is pretty huge to > me. I wish I could get a model number, and in a few months I should > be able to, I was just curious if anyone was familiar with the > company. > > Mike Graham > Very familiar with the name Mike, Butlers are in Halifax, Yorkshire, just up the road from where I served my time. First class company, they made lathes, planers, shapers, radial arm drills and a very nice vertical slotter. I don't know if they are still in business or what the parts situation is, but if the lathe is not too big for you and if it is not badly worn, with no parts broken, then you have a great lathe. I remember Butlers as building some REALLY big lathes. My company used to make some huge bed castings for them which we rough machined to "prove" them before shipping for seasoning. Hope this helps. Robert Bastow ======== Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking Subject: Re: Anti-Harley propaganda (long); was Are You All Strange? From: Robert Bastow Date: Sat, 10 Oct 1998 23:45:47 GMT -------- rick d wrote: > Mike/Bob- > > What about (slobber, drool) a Vincent Black lightning......? > > Rick D I thought they built the Black shadow and the Black Knight....'course I may be full of S*** because I don't profess to know a llot about the Vincents. All Ikno is that a LOT of British bikers would sell their first born to get one. These are guys with their pick of Besas, Nortons,Triumph AJS and yes, Harleys! I understand they are increasingly popular over there. Robert Bastow ======== Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking Subject: Re: FS: Rhino, the best 3d modeling program at the best price From: Robert Bastow Date: Sat, 10 Oct 1998 23:54:10 GMT -------- Andrew Werby wrote: > Since many of us are model makers as well as computer-users, I thought > I'd mention Rhino, which I think is the best 3d modeling tool available I am a model maker, and I was wondering if the Rhino could build me a 1 1/2" scale "Big Boy". You know, like carve it out of solid in one setup? Or are we talking about a whole differnt kind of "Model Making" here? ;^) Robert Bastow ======== Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking,sci.engr,sci.engr.mech,sci.engr.manufacturing Subject: Re: What is the difference between a Form Tap, Plug Tap, Bottoming Tap, and a Taper Tap ? From: Robert Bastow Date: Sun, 11 Oct 1998 00:37:55 GMT -------- wg wrote: > What's the difference between a Form Tap, Plug > Tap, Bottoming Tap, and a Taper Tap ? > > wg When (if!!,I never do) you prchase a set of Hand taps you will get a Taper tap, a plug tap (called a Second Tap in the UK) and a Bottoming Tap (called a Plug Tap in the UK) The ONLY difference between them is the degree of taper ground on the CRESTS of the threads. Contrary to what a lot of people think, there is no taper on the thread root and pitch diameters. Only Taper Tread series (Pipe threads) are form tapered. Neither do taps have any "form relief"..like a milling cutter or gear hob. Ground HS taps are centerless form ground out of pre_hardened blankc and the flutes are ground in afterwards. The taper tap is used first especially in tough materials. It has a taper ground over th first 1/3rd (approx.) of the tap length. This taper IS backed off to give a cutting relief. The Plug tap is tapered and backed off over about half the length that you see on the taper tap. It follows the taper tap..though generally this tap will be the ONLY tap you use under most circumstances. The Bottoming tap has only the first thread chamfered and relief ground. It is used to follow the taper tap and cut the thread right to the bottom of a blind hole. Very rarely called for except where the material is thin and you need maximum thread possible. 'Scope mount screws on a rifle reciever are one of the few applications where there is a genuine requirement. Internally threaded pipe unions would be another. Sadly most "botttomed" threads I have ever had to cut from drawings were the result of a designer that didn't know his a** from a hole in the ground!! I have never bought a taper or a bottoming tap (for home use) If I REALLY need one or the other, I will hand grind one from an old taper tap. It is easier than grinding a drill. I am not sure what you mean by " form" tap. All taps are form taps in that they carry the form of the thread to be cut. Could you be thinking of a "Forming" or "Roll Forming" tap? This is a tap without flutes, has a rounded polygonal section and is designed to roll form the threads without removing metal. All my smaller taps are of this type as they are FAR stronger than a regular tap and give a smother and stronger thread. Robert Bastow ======== Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking Subject: Re: How do you mill a cube accurately From: Robert Bastow Date: Sun, 11 Oct 1998 01:01:33 GMT -------- Peter O'Leary wrote: > Scott S.Logan) wrote: > > > (Peter O'Leary) wrote: > > > >> > >>The original poster said he was using a Kurt vise. They don't bend. > >>Period. Besides they have a cam lock mechanism where the moving jaw > >>is forced down at an angle as the jaw is tightened to prevent the > >>workpiece from lifting. I think the original poster's problems were > >>resolved by trying dowels against the movable jaw and smacking the > >>workpiece down, > > > >Sorry, if you really believe "They don't bend. Period." I have a > >surprise for you. They DO! Exclamation point! > > > >It is all a matter of degrees (sorry). A Kurt Vise will bend LESS > > You're absolutely correct, > Peter J. O'Leary The whole point is that the original poster asked "What would an EXPERIENCED Machinist do" An experienced machinist is fully aware that nothing on the face of the erarth is truly flat, straight,round or rigid. He takes that into account and does NOT whale down on an expensive, precision vice. A Kurt vice (or my favorite the Girardi) will hold a piece like this, especially for a light load like fly cutting, with almost a finger tightening. If I saw an alleged "experienced" machinist whaling on MY vice in MY tool and die shop, I would have fired his butt before he caused further damage..or hurt someone! The very best vice can be damaged permanently by over tightening. Experienced machinists don't do this, it is usually a less experienced and nervous amateur or an unskilled "thug". An experienced machinist faced with something that he knows he cannot grip firmly enough in a vise without overtightening, will use auxilliary clamps for security, or, he will dispense with the vice and (in this case) edge dog it right to the table top using a trammed in stop bar for squareness. Robert Bastow ======== Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking Subject: Re: Strange division on my Spindle nose From: Robert Bastow Date: Sun, 11 Oct 1998 10:08:23 GMT -------- Ostcroix wrote: > We a French lathe called casenave ( I may have spelled it worng ) > ON the end of the spindle nose ( The left most part of the spindle nose ) > are divisions from 5 all the way to 60. What is a practical use for for > these division? > Othniel Rawlins > Ostcroix@aol.com > ============== Cazeneuve make a nice lathe. 5 to 60 divisions on the tail end of th spindle sounds like a dividing facility. FWIIW Robert Bastow ======== Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking Subject: Re: best way to bore a hole in pulley From: Robert Bastow Date: Sun, 11 Oct 1998 10:36:31 GMT -------- DAVID NIEMELA wrote: > Cowards! > > Just chuck a shanked-down 5/8" bit in your 3/8" drill, clamp the pulley > in your vise, and go for broke! It won't take long to break!!!! ;^) Robert Bastow ======== Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking Subject: Re: Are you all strange? From: Robert Bastow Date: Sun, 11 Oct 1998 10:51:53 GMT -------- J R North wrote: > Just passing through? Thats nice..... > JR > > Ham Burger wrote: > > > Just passing through this group I wonder what else he is passing? Like blood hopefully! Robert Bastow ======== To: John Stevenson Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking Subject: Re:US & UK M/c ToolManuf. was Info J Butler From: Robert Bastow Date: Sun, 11 Oct 1998 11:24:02 GMT -------- John Stevenson wrote: > On Sat, 10 Oct 1998 23:35:11 GMT, Robert Bastow wrote: > > > > > > > >Very familiar with the name Mike, Butlers are in Halifax, Yorkshire, just > >up the road from where I served my time. > > > >First class company, they made lathes, planers, shapers, radial arm drills > >and a very nice vertical slotter. > > > Butlers have since gone the same way as a lot of the British Machine Tool industry. > I have a 5" stroke Butler slotting machine. > They were famous for their slotters in the UK. They seemed to have cornered the > market. > > Regards, > > John Stevenson It is tragic, if not criminal, what has happened to the Machine Tool Industry in The UK and here in North America. It seems like all the great names are gone. I worked, closely, with Alfred Herbert, once the largest machine tool manufacturer in the world, pioneers in machine tool automation, builders of the first production, hard wired NC machines, and originators of the universally used "G Code" programming system. In the early 80's they were a shadow of their former selves, but had a magnificent CNC turning center on the market. I was in there at the end, in 1982/3, when the recession killed what was left. They still owe me money!! 8^( Co-incidentally, for many years, and probably even still, the magnificent range of Herbert Capstan and Turret lathes was built in India! The quality was unimpeachable..better even than the UK built machines..so don't knock Imports just because they are Imports!! Does anyone have a handle on the few great Names that are left. Bridgeport and Southbend, of course, Cincinnatti Milacron? Myford, Jones and Shipley (maybe), Boxford, are all names that spring to mind. What about K&T, P&W and Smarte & Brown? Any more that come to mind? Cheers, Robert Bastow ======== Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking Subject: Re: . Clinton, resign... From: Robert Bastow Date: Sun, 11 Oct 1998 16:42:54 GMT -------- Dan wrote: > http://resignation.ariannaonline.com/ Any, so called "poll" or petition, that does not give an equal opportunity to those canvassed to vote "nay" if they wish, has no validity regardless of the subject! The vast majority in this country (and the rest of the world) want to see the end of this stupidity and do not see strong enough grounds for impeachment, nor do they want Clinton to resign. As I see it, if the most powerful man in the world can't get a bit 'o pussy ANY time he wants it...then where does that leave the rest of us? If I had been caught red handed, and knew my wife was listening to the question, I would LIE LIKE RUG!!! Your only hope of survival in that case is DENY! DENY! DENY! no matter how strong the evidence, never never confess. The instnat you do your goose is cooked, and ready to stick a fork in! Just MHO, 8^) Robert Bastow ======== Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking Subject: Re: How to Cut Steel with a saw? From: Robert Bastow Date: Sun, 11 Oct 1998 16:49:01 GMT -------- Mike Graham wrote: > >A "Cold Saw" is a device that looks sort of like a chop saw but has very > >low rpm, appropriate for steel. They are fairly expensive, but maybe you > >could rent one. > > Actually, does anyone know the RPM that these things operate at? > Somewhere around 200RPM? > > Mike Graham > Usually they are variable speed but IIRC that would be about mid range. Robert Bastow ======== Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking Subject: Re: What is the difference between a Form Tap, Plug Tap, Bottoming Tap, and a Taper Tap ? From: Robert Bastow Date: Sun, 11 Oct 1998 17:16:18 GMT -------- ldkeith@home.com wrote: > Robert Bastow wrote: > > > > The Bottoming tap has only the first thread chamfered and relief ground. > > It is used to follow the taper tap and cut the thread right to the > > bottom of a blind hole. Very rarely called for except where the > > material is thin and you need maximum thread possible. 'Scope mount > > screws on a rifle reciever are one of the few applications where there > > is a genuine requirement. > > Internally threaded pipe unions would be another. Sadly most > > "botttomed" threads I have ever had to cut from drawings were the result > > of a designer that didn't know his a** from a hole in the ground!! I > > have never bought a taper or a bottoming tap (for home use) If I REALLY > > need one or the other, I will hand grind one from an old taper tap. It > > is easier than grinding a drill. > > I find myself using bottoming taps quite reqularly, and do not > share your > opinion of them. For anyone building a Gingery lathe a few > bottoming taps > will come in very handy. Lots of blind holes need to be tapped, > and the > bottoming taps make finishing these holes that much cleaner and > safer (from > broken taps). > > dave I stand by my statement! As I said there are a few obvious exceptions, but I am not alone in thinking that no designer/draughtsman worth his salt would spec. a blind hole with a bottomed thread if he could possibly avoid it. The penalty in production time, tool changing and down time plus scrapped parts and broken taps, is the spur to find a better way. Not to mention keeping his job!! In most cases a deeper drilling, which allows enough space to use a taper tap to get the required thread depth, can be allowed and gives somewhere for the chips to go. I have seen cases where a cast boss was provided on the UNDERside to allow this, when a fluid tight component was required. Use of thicker material or a straight thro' hole should be considered. Last but by no means least, many designers specify far too deep a thread. In most cases, two to three times diameter is adequate. (Look at the thickness of a nut if you doubt me.) If this is not the case the designer should investigate the use of more fasteners of a smaller size, finer threads, or the use of stronger materials. FWIIW Robert Bastow ======== Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking Subject: Re: SINE BARS?? NEED HELP From: Robert Bastow Date: Sun, 11 Oct 1998 17:35:23 GMT -------- Scott Logan wrote: > The other posts are helpful, and give the answer you are looking for, > but I have one "warning". Beyond about 30 degrees, a sine bar/plate > loses it's accuracy. After 30 degrees, a small error in the stack of > jo-blocks makes a big error in the angle. > > For instance (assuming 5" sine bar/plate): Thankyou for sharing that Scott. I have been aware of the "caveat" ever since I was an "Oily Rag"and had to share the services of a laborer, but, although I took account of it,and never used a sine bar for larger angles in a critical application, It never really made sense. Textbooks and Instructors quote it "parrot fashion", but never expand upon the real reasons....Guilty as charged m'Lud!!! But I have never before seen an explanation that made sense! Thank you Scott for reminding me that one is never too old to learn 8^) 8^) Warmest regards Robert PS considering the cost of a set of gauge blocks our listers should be aware that it is standard practice to machine your own block of the required height. You can make that as permanent and accurate as the occasion demands. PPS. I was in a production meeting on one occasion, when the subject of sine bars came up in conversation. "Oh yes!" piped up our new "Hot Shot" Production Manager. " I have a set of those...a six inch and a twelve inch"..... ======== Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking Subject: Re: . Clinton, resign... From: Robert Bastow Date: Sun, 11 Oct 1998 17:55:26 GMT -------- Ron Moore wrote: > Mr. Bastow > How do you define "vast"? In Oklahoma, from the folks I know and talk > to, that's about 20%, maybe. I lived for a while in "Enid, AMERICA!!!" I can understand your belief that what Okies think, should be good enough for the rest of this great Nation!!! If you were to pull your head out of that dark place and check the NATIONAL POLLS you will see a different picture. And as I said... > > Just MHO, 8^) And No, you haven't changed it. 8^) Respectfully, Robert Bastow ======== Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking Subject: Re: What's in "denatured" alcohol? From: Robert Bastow Date: Mon, 12 Oct 1998 02:46:31 GMT -------- DAVID NIEMELA wrote: > 95% ethanol, 5% methanol eh? If a guy knew the boiling points for the > two he could probably distill some pretty potent shine out of it. > > All that would be needed would be a boot-draging idiot cousin to test > the end result. . . In the UK "de-natured Alcohol" is known as "Methylated Spirit"..."Meths" for short. In addition to the Methanol it also contains an additive that dyes it a permanent purple and gives it a FOUL taste. There is no known means of separating them. Nevertheless the next depths to which a " wino" sinks is to drinking Meths..Usually with a soft drink called "Tizer" [Which needs something like meths to make it palatable ;^) ] after that comes "brasso" (metal polish) and finally (literally) comes boot polish, spread on bread. ".......And now you know the REST of the story" 8^) Robert Bastow ======== To: Jeff DelPapa Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking Subject: Re:An elegant solution..was Hare brained From: Robert Bastow Date: Mon, 12 Oct 1998 03:44:51 GMT -------- Jeff DelPapa wrote: > Ok, I got a bunch of comments, > So I have a new harebrained idea... Since it seems that a square > collumn and a dovetail are redundant, and adapting for a square column > is a real pain, the current scheme has me getting a round hunk of cast > bar, and machining to match the current one. Cut a slot to fit a > dovetailed slide into the cylinder, and make the matching slide with a > round back, the length of the existing head. The new column would > mount where the existing shaft does, and the dovetail block would be > at the back of the machine, so it could be easily bolted/pinned to the > head. I LIKE THIS > To get the slider to have the needed matching > curved back, the simplest thing looks like fitting it into the column, > tightening the gib to lock it in place, and turning both parts to > finish diameter at the same time.... Good thinking. Use steel for the "slider" It will be stronger, stiffer, and will wear better. > Any suggestions as to how thick should I be planning for the gib? > (space to come from the plug) About how far apart is reasonable to > space the gib adjusting screws? (the head is about 15" tall). Cast > iron or brass for the gib? 1/8 to 5/32.....use ground 01 gauge stock (unhardened) place the gib screws 1" to 1 1/4" apart > Anyone on the east coast have a source for > cast iron rounds, thats cheaper than MSC? Try Scott Logan, he'll be around. > I notice that MSC sells > both grey cast iron, and a higher tensile strength malleable iron (for > about the same price). Any advantage of one over the other for this > application? Cast Iron will be fine..Malleable Iron will wear better. "semi steel' will be far stiffer Why not just use HRS? Thickwall tubing if you can find it at "Jones the scrap" A steel column inside the cast iron housing will give better friction and wear qualities. If you decide to use steel, then go for a much wider,deeper "slider" and think about using a taper gib. They are easy to make,and can be adjusted in situ. If you kneed to know how to make one contact me direct. I think you maybe on to an elegant solution for a perennial problem. Patent it as an improvement, licence its use to OEMs and arrang for the manufacture and marketing of conversion kits for the thousands of users out there that are slowly being driven NUTS by this problem. Let me know if I can help Robert Bastow > > > > ======== Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking Subject: Re: It would be funny if it wasn't so sad. . . From: Robert Bastow Date: Mon, 12 Oct 1998 03:50:37 GMT -------- Ron Moore wrote: > "Here,Here" or is it "Hear, Hear" Mr. Hoover. > Respectfully, > Ron Moore I believe the term, is "here, here" meaning 'Here I am in support" rather than " I hear You and agree" No wonder people have such difficulty learning English/American, as a second language. Respectfully Robert Bastow ======== To: chilton@unm.edu Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking Subject: Re: Expletive to be deleted From: Robert Bastow Date: Mon, 12 Oct 1998 04:11:49 GMT -------- Chilton Gregory wrote: > Robert Bastow wrote: > > > > > > > Och aye mon, noo yer i' ma parrrticulah arrreah o' experrrtise! > > > > "haggis" , spelled wi' a wee "h" is use t' denote the boiled specimen consumed by > > everry true Scot on Rabbie Burrns' nacht, > > ( and many a Sassenach fewl the noo ye ken) > > > Ne govorish dobro engleski jesik! > > I tambien porque vivo en nuevo mexico, mi gusta muchisimo el menudo.. > > Chilton Ach, noo a' ken what yer meanin' is, ye Sassenach!! An' why, be tellin' me, would a guid,braw, bonnie, an' brave Hielander like ma sel' iver be wantin, (or needin') ta be speakin' a heathen language like th' ainglish? But a' ken well, laddie tha' ye' have rrresisted well, the temptation ta lerrn the language yersel' Guid fe' ye, an a' wull raise ma cup an' drrink a wee dram t' ye. "Pip,pip old bean" as th'Sassenachs declare whan they're a drinkin' the filth we Scots export especially ta debilitate the ainglish!! Rabbie Bastow ======== Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking Subject: Re: !2x36 Atlas: Installing QC toolpost problems From: Robert Bastow Date: Mon, 12 Oct 1998 04:34:14 GMT -------- David R. Birch wrote: > I now have my new Dorian/Aloris type QC tool post and I find that > if I install it as offcenter in the compound rest T slot to the > left, the tool holders will still not clear the compound rest. I > want to set the compound rest at a 30 degree angle, but it looks > like I'll have to mill the corner of the compound rest, which I > am not eager to do. Who has already solved this problem? > > David If I understand correctly, you are saying that, in order to bring the tool point on center, the tool holder has to hang below the top of the cross slide? If this is the case it sounds as though your QC system is way too big for your 12" Atlas. And /or You are trying to hold tools that are way too big (deep) And/or your topslide is too close to the center height of your lathe for comfort The size usually recommended is the AXA. This size fits comfortably on my Maximat Super II. The ideal height from top of topslide to lathe center is about 1,110" I skimmed a few thou off my top slide, to bring it to this height, to suit some Hardinge toolholders and accessories I already had. This topslide height will put the tool holder squarely in the center of the sliding gib (I have a Dorian MKII) with about 3/13" clearance over th topslide when I adjust it to put the maximum, 1/2" square,tool bit right on the center height. Robert Bastow ======== Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking Subject: Re: Best Kitty Litter? From: Robert Bastow Date: Mon, 12 Oct 1998 04:53:57 GMT -------- Gunner wrote: > Ok ok, I can speak as an expert at kitty litter. Taft, Ca. where I > live is the home of the two kitty litter manufactures. Johnny Cat, > (A&M Products) and Golden Cat. Virtually every pound of kitty litter > in the US comes from here. Millions of pounds of the same diatemaceous > earth are pulverized, milled, dried and bagged. You realise that this makes kitty litter a major component of Dynamite!! The other component is Nitro-Glycerine..far too sensitive and dangerous, on its own, to be generally accepted. Nobel's breakthrough was to soak up the Nitro in "Kieslghur"...the German? name for diatomaceus earth...a kind of soft limestone made up of the skeltal remains of trillions of tiny sea creatures. Now, about my neighbor's cat.....here kitty kitty... ;^) Robert Bastow Who would be a helluva fellow in a "political organisation" ======== To: Ostcroix Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking Subject: Re: SINE BARS..Alternative methods From: Robert Bastow Date: Mon, 12 Oct 1998 05:29:48 GMT -------- Ostcroix wrote: > Let's say a machinist needed to check that > Angle and it's very critical. And the shop > is too cheap to buy JO blocks. What other > method can the Machinist use to check the Angle? Assuming he has access to an accurate sine bar,and it is not difficult to make your own, it is perfectly ok to make your own block to the required height, You can make it as permanent (Hardened) and as accurate (ground and lapped) as you like. Absent a sine bar, one can resort to using accurate rollers or balls and a micrimeter to measure angles If his shop math is not up figuring out the geometry, he can always go to the library and get "Machinerys Handbook" I am assuming that his boss is too chintzy to buy a copy. Another method is to use a projection comparator. The magnifed shadow of the piece is compared with an accurate drawing, sample or gage. There are many other ways, you will find experienced machinists can figure out a way to do almost anything. Robert Bastow ======== Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking Subject: Re: How do you mill a cube accurately From: Robert Bastow Date: Mon, 12 Oct 1998 06:05:07 GMT -------- mulligan@advinc.com wrote: > In article <36200460.E4061282@hotmail.com>, > artificer@netscape.net wrote: > > > > > An experienced machinist is fully aware that nothing on the face of the > > erarth is truly flat, straight,round or rigid. > > > > Not quite. A truly experienced one will have a good estimate in > his mind for how *much* the object deviates from flat, straight, > round or rigid. > > And compensates accordingly - if needed. > > Jim > Yer got that "Bass-Ackwards" Jim!! I wasn't speaking of specific deviations just a FACT that an E.M. keeps in mind. Au contraire to your statement, an experienced machinist has learned, from bitter experience, never to rely on a instinctive judgement or "eyball measurement" on his raw materials or his tackle. Measure twice..cut once, is his maxim. Mistakes are expensive. The "experience" in a machinist comes not from winging it or skipping steps but carrying out those necessary steps with speed and accuracy. Then he KNOWS how much it TRULY deviates from flat, round, straight or square, to the best of his ability and need. If he is wise he will WRITE down those details before he starts, because, especially in a jobbing shop environment, he never knows if or when he may be broken off to do something more urgent and have to pass that job on to another EXPERIENCED Machinist. Only when he has done that does he formulate the best and FASTEST way to make the piece within the required tolerances. Rest assured that if the spec. is tight he will not start to set up and cut metal until he has first checked out his equipment...regardless of whether or not he was the last to use them...................."a good estimate in his mind"..Baloney! And surely, someone will respond with "I have thirty years experience as a machinist....blah blah... But if he propagates baloney, I will respond that it sounds like he has one year of experience...thirty times over!! Respectfully Robert Bastow With forty-one year's of experience.....not all of it repeated (or repeatable..Thank God!!) ======== Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking Subject: Re: Can you use Slick 50 as Cutting and Tapping Oil ? From: Robert Bastow Date: Mon, 12 Oct 1998 06:45:09 GMT -------- Martin H. Eastburn wrote: > I read in this group about Crisco. I tried it on steel. > Now I have an old Peanut Butter Jar (sans peanut... and label) > in the shop with a serving spoon size lump in it. I press the tap > into the lump and tap away. Works nice on 6061 Al as well. > Cheap as well. > Martin > When "I were a lad", serving my six year aprenticeship we didn't haveall the (excellent) modern cutting and tapping lubricants that are available now. we used "suds" ( emulsion of lard oil in water) for machining. straight lard oil for tougher jobs and sulphurised EP oil for real arduous machining like hobbing gears for warships and gundrilling or trepanning deep holes in naval gun barrels. The favorite for tapping on all materials, including all grades of steel, Stainless steel, phosphor bronze, admiralty and aluminum bronzes, alluminum alloys and brasses, Monel Metal, titanium and a host of others, was home made. We would heat up a small can of tallow or suet, even lard in a pinch, and stir in as much powdered graphite as it would hold. the resultant mix, when it cooled was about the consistancy of boot polish. to use, you poked your hand tap in it and tapped away. Hint, when hand tapping..ignore the text books...they repeat the mistakes of people a century ago. Modern taps are designed to cut, not tear the material..and to BREAK the CHIPS. Do NOT except under extreme circumstances repeatedly back off the tap to "break the chips" chances are you will break the tap. The modern, HSS ground thread tap, properly sharpened and with the appropriate lubrication will tap a hole "straight through" without reversals at every turn. Don't believe me? Visit a jobbing machine shop and watch them tapping holes all day long on a drill, mill or lathe, and using HAND taps...often without benefit of a tapping head. The reason taps "bind" are: a. the tap is blunt. b. set out of square or torqued unevenly. c. galling...choose a tap with a suitable finish..of which there are many. d. frequent reversals.......leading to chipped teeth...leading to a. above Coincidentally, I would like to make up some of this black "Goop" for my own use, now my new shop is getting to the point of actually "making stuff" Can anyone tell me where I might find some powdered graphite? Cheers, Robert Bastow ======== Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking Subject: Re: An elegant solution..was Hare brained From: Robert Bastow Date: Mon, 12 Oct 1998 14:09:02 GMT -------- plastic wrote: > Robert Bastow wrote: > > > > > > I dont know if you can get it in America but the ASSAB steel > (Associated Swedish Steel) company sells "hollow bar" steel in various > grades including tool steel grades. This is essentially a very heavy > walled tube. They have various wall thickness/diameters available. > You could also use solid steel. I dont think cast iron running in a > cast iron head is a good or practical option. My thought too, but hollow bar tends towards the "spendy" which is whyI suggested trying to scare some up at "jones the scrap" We have one here in Atlanta and a suitable chunk, if it were to be found might cost twenty bucks > > > I still believe that if you are using the back of the "dove tailed > runner", even turned to match the ID of the head that if it is only > bolted/pinned it will move and negate the whole purpose of the job. > get a slot broached so the "dove tail" piece can be fully located. > Absolutely, although properly fitted, hardened dowels, or taper pins willstand up to a heck of a lot of thumping in a die set. As this is a low- stress application, dowells will probably be more that adequate..certainly worth proving out. I have in mind also, the possibility of marketing this as a conversion kit, and here, of course, minimum complexity and cost are important. To mill an integral key on the fixed :slider would prevent the use of his elegant solution of turning it "in situ" with the column. To machine a slot in he slider for a fixed key would add complexity to both the supplier and the supplyee, and introduce two or three probable sources of error. Bear in mind, that any angular error will have a twisting effect that will be multiplied many-fold at the spindle. Broaching a slot is a "one shot deal" whereas the bolted "slider" can be proved out for alignment before finally, inserting the dowels. Finally, a dowelled construction, as in tool and die work can be realigned by reaming the holes oversize and fittiing new dowel pins, or in the case of taper pins, tapping in new ones in deeper after re-reaming. I would prefer taper pins but the reamers are spendy for a one shot deal. Respectfully Robert Bastow ======== Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking Subject: Re: How to Cut Steel with a saw? From: Robert Bastow Date: Mon, 12 Oct 1998 14:22:58 GMT -------- Glenn Lyford wrote: > >> Actually, does anyone know the RPM that these things operate at? > >> Somewhere around 200RPM? > >> > >> Mike Graham > >> > > > >Usually they are variable speed but IIRC that would be about mid range. > > > >Robert Bastow > > > I just received a Grizzly catalog, they offer a cold saw blade for > use in their abrasive cut-off saw, prices run about the same as for > the rest of the saw... > --Glenn OUCH!!A Cold saw needs to be a whole lot more robust and rigid than a chopsaw, and run a whole lot slower..unless they are talking about cutting aluminum. When I had my own jobbing and tool and die shop, I cut tens of thousands of pieces of custom extruded aluminum sections, with a chop saw, using ten inch blades, made for that purpose, and purchased at the local Wallymart. I also had a cold saw for ferrous materials, and that weighed ten or twenty times as much as the chop saw. Robert Bastow ======== To: Brian Hornaday Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking Subject: Re: Suggestion for new RCM group (WAS: Clinton, resign...) From: Robert Bastow Date: Mon, 12 Oct 1998 14:28:43 GMT -------- Brian Hornaday wrote: > I like this group, in fact I credit you guys/gals as the source of most of > my metalworking knowledge and everything not relating to welding (gotta > thank old Mr. Tilford for that). What I think we should do is create a sub > group called rec.crafts.metalworking.clinton-opinions and get the national > debate off of the group. I realize I don't have to read them, but they > really don't have a place here. Face it, everyone here has formed their > opinion, and no amount of verbal (written) sparring is going to change our > minds. > > Respectfully, > > Brian Hornaday Here, Here.I'm done with this thread. rec. guns.politics is doing a great job of cluttering up the ethernet with Clinton and similar garbage if anyone needs a "fix"! Robert Bastow ======== To: "Scott S. Logan" Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking Subject: Re: SINE BARS?? NEED HELP From: Robert Bastow Date: Mon, 12 Oct 1998 14:54:24 GMT -------- Scott S. Logan wrote: > As Robert pointed out, making a sine bar is possible, although I would > spend the relatively small amount and buy a good one. > When I was an apprentice, making a sine bar and plate was a standard "Government" job, along with toolmaker's vices, miniature angle plates, "1-2-3' blocks, angle slips and a whole host of other toolmaker's acoutrements. On $6.00 a week we couldn't afford "boughten" tools. We were allowed to do this at lunch hour, and after work...the company freely supplying materials, equipment and heat treatment. Most were made of cyanide case hardened HRS, Ground and lapped to at least inspection grade standards. They had to pass through our Inspection Dept. (a right bunch of "bar-stewards") and be stamped or etched, before we were allowed to use them in the shops I still have and use regularly, all my stuff including a full 81 piece set of Inspection grade 1" square gage blocks that are traceable and have "passed muster" with visiting Quality Auditors on numerous occasions. Robert Bastow ======== To: "Richard H. Williams" Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking Subject: Re: FS: Rhino, the best 3d modeling program at the best price From: Robert Bastow Date: Mon, 12 Oct 1998 16:02:07 GMT -------- Richard H. Williams wrote: >Andrew Werby wrote: > >> Since many of us are model makers as well as computer-users, I thought > >> I'd mention Rhino, which I think is the best 3d modeling tool available > > >I am a model maker, and I was wondering if the Rhino could build me a 1 1/2" > >scale "Big Boy". You know, like carve it out of solid in one setup? > > >Or are we talking about a whole differnt kind of "Model Making" here? ;^) > > >Robert Bastow > > Bob: Are you actually building something like this? Can you actually find > the real estate to run it? A fella out our way built a 3" (yes quarter > size) pacific that is just enormous, and very taxing on the track. > > Rich Williams Hi Rich, No I was only kidding..sorta!! I would love to build a 1 1/2" "Big Boy" or better still the 1 1/2" scale "King George V" from Reeves' exquisite castings. And Yes...I do have the real estate to run it! Robert, PS I do really prefer "Robert"...I was "Bob" for too many years and he was not a very nice person...you wouldn't want to meet "Bob"!! ;^) ======== Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking Subject: Re: Suggestion for new RCM group (WAS: Clinton, resign...) From: Robert Bastow Date: Mon, 12 Oct 1998 16:14:25 GMT -------- Scott A. Moore wrote: > .................................................................................................. > For example, > Clinton would not have that problem if....... he had an unfortunate groin accident > with a lathe....... NOT FUNNY!!!! ;^) I saw an apprentice hit in the nuts by a 2 pound chunk of steel that flew out of the chuck! Dropped him like a log. No permanent damage, fortunately. Brought tears to his glass eye tho'!! > FBI disclaimer: ........... Too little too late. The FBI have NO sense of humor, and precious little sense of priorities! Look out your window Scott...see that van across the road?? Cheers, Robert ======== Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking Subject: Re: What are CNC machines used for ? From: Robert Bastow Date: Mon, 12 Oct 1998 16:37:10 GMT -------- mledtje@my-dejanews.com wrote: > I(Scott A. Moore) wrote: > >> Here's a stupid subject, or is it ? > >> > >> What, exactly, are CNC machines used for ? > If our competitors had access to CNC and we did not we would not be able to > stay in business. Any Jobbing shop that did not use CNC as much as possible would die of starvation! Go check out a few of your local ones..you will be made more than welcome. Strike up a relationship there and you might, eventually be given access to their scrap bin, or even get a few small subcontract jobs to earn some "tool money"! Robert Bastow ======== Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking Subject: Re: Can you use Slick 50 as Cutting and Tapping Oil ? From: Robert Bastow Date: Mon, 12 Oct 1998 16:53:59 GMT -------- Felice Luftschein & Nicholas Carter wrote: > >Hint, when hand tapping..ignore the text books...they repeat the > >mistakes of people a century ago. Modern taps are designed to cut, not > >tear the material..and to BREAK the CHIPS. > Gun taps are certainly designed to do this, but a lot of my hand taps > need to be backed up, or they jam, especially used under power. > Besides some of my taps are practically antiques, having come from > estate sales, etc. As I clearly stated, I was refering to MODERN, SHARP, Hand Taps!! I would respectfully suggest you invest in a few of your most frequently used taps. Buy the best you can afford, avoid the "Imports", this is not a place to skimp! You will be delighted with their performance, and your investment will be amply returned, if only in reduced stress levels!! Robert Bastow PS. If you enjoy high stress levels, try setting up a (shop built),high speed "ejector"type, deep hole drilling machine. Tooling can go from $300+ to garbage in two seconds flat. You need the reactions of a snake, the concentration of a chess player and the deductive powers of a nobel prize physicist! Guaranteed to make your palms sweat!! Robert ======== To: Felice Luftschein & Nicholas Carter Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking Subject: Re: Suggestion for new RCM group (WAS: Clinton, resign...) From: Robert Bastow Date: Mon, 12 Oct 1998 17:06:59 GMT -------- Felice Luftschein & Nicholas Carter wrote: > Well, if you were hanging around in a shop, having a few beers at the > end of the day, these subjects would certainly come up, as well as all > the other political debates we engage in. Topics like taxation, gun > control, environmental regulation, etc. are germane to the running of > a shop and the practice of metalworking. We should be adding the OT > prefix to the posts, so newcomers know that what the newsgroup is > primarily about is metalworking, not healthy intellectual debate. > > I find it interesting that although we have a few dyed in the wool > liberals, and a few hardcore social conservatives, most on this group > have a pragmatic fiscal conservative/social liberal outlook. If only > we ran the world. > > The U.S. has a healthy tradition of free political discussion, in > spite of the powers that be, and I like to see it exercised. My only > complaint is that people should think about the common ground of their > philosophies: right to bear arms, gay rights, ending excessive gov. > regulation, ending public land pollution, decriminalization of drugs, > lowering taxes, all have the same root, that of promoting individual > private liberty. Someday we'll all work together and all the > entrenched politicians will be out of work. > > Hell yes I'm a Libertarian. Well said, that man!! Robert Bastow Who CHOSE to become an American in the firm belief that this IS the Land of the Free and the Brave. And who believes that, one day, we WILL settle our minor differences, and work together to build this Great Nation into what it is truly capable of becoming. We owe that much at least to our children and their children!! Who may not believe in what you say, but will fight to the death to defend your right to say it!! An' oil foight the man who sez it isn't so!! ;^) Robert ======== To: Chas Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking Subject: Re: early turn benches, or lathes From: Robert Bastow Date: Mon, 12 Oct 1998 17:24:59 GMT -------- Chas wrote: > I've been experimenting with a foot-powered wood lathe for a while, but > would like to try a different variation. Does anyone have resources they > can suggest on making a "turn-bench," or small bow-lathe such as was > used by watchmakers for fine work? > > I've got access to Joseph Moxon's "Mechanic Expercises"(circa 1680) but > he really just mentions it in passing as part of his chapters about > turning. I've posted to rec.crafts.woodturning, but have gotten no > response. > > Chas > -- > MacGregor Games > Purveyors of historic pastimes to re-enactors around the world > http://www.historicgames.com Try "Fine Woodworking" for treadle, bow and spring "Lathe" ( pronounced "lat"..a springy stip of wood and the origin of the name of our modern lathes) One of the neatest "serious wood turning lathes I ever saw, was based on a bicycle hub gear with freewheel. and driven by a length of bicyle chain. One end was attached to a foot treadle with a heavy flywheel and it went up and over the drive gear to a coil return spring. This developed some seriously useable, smooth, power and speed. Such a drive, mounted under the headstock with a flat belt, multi-step pulley drive to the spindle would make for a very useable set of "Turns" or a precision Clock and Instrument Lathe. The range of speeds (20 or more+ variable speed treadling. would be ideal. Robert Bastow ======== Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking Subject: Re: A question about stainless steel and magnetism. From: Robert Bastow Date: Mon, 12 Oct 1998 17:39:30 GMT -------- mrsfixit@TheGarage.com wrote: > I was wondering why a magnet won't stick to some grades of stainless steel? > > Candice > mrsfixit@postoffice.ptd.net Too little iron and nickel and too much (non-magnetic) chrome. PS, there are no "dumb" questions only dumb answers! Never be afraid to ask if you don't know.. ther is no shame in "ignorance" because.... "Ignorance can be fixed..Stupid is forever!!" Robert Bastow ======== Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking Subject: Re: Are you all strange? From: Robert Bastow Date: Mon, 12 Oct 1998 17:59:54 GMT -------- PLAlbrecht wrote: > Professor Bruce Plastic wrote > > >Personally I think these poof types are strange. They are only tolerated not > accepted. > > G'Dai, Bruce. > We will now have the reading of the rules of RCM. Rule one: NO POOFTAHS. Does this include Ladies of a homosexual persuasion?I certainly hope not! One of the best apprentices I ever employed, was as butch/dyke as they come. But she? made a helluva tool and diemaker and could run rings around most men in areas of skill and expertise. (As well as in arm wrestling and beer drinking) She went on to head up the toolroom of a major aero-space Contractor. I would certainly welcome her in this news group. Regardless of her pecadillos. I would like to think ANYONE who comes here to learn and to contribute would be welcome no matter what their sexual prefference. I truly trust that your post was in jest. If so it was in poor taste and the joke should be made clear to a casual observer or better still, withdrawn. "You are known by the company you keep" and I prefer nNOT the company of Bigots! Respectfully Robert Bastow (Who has his own Pecadillos) ;^) > Professor Bruce (who is in charge of the sheep dip) Plastic has finally come out of the closet!! ;^) Perhaps he is a Bigamist or a Pimp!! ======== Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking Subject: Re: An elegant solution..was Hare brained From: Robert Bastow Date: Mon, 12 Oct 1998 18:11:20 GMT -------- Kelley Mascher wrote: > > > How about milling a 90 degree V into the column and a matching > 90 degree V in the head (vertically, of course). Fit and pin a > piece of keystock into the square opening you have created. > You could probably fit a gib to the V groove on the head. > This would have been my first choice, and is similar to the "Urwick wedge key" the only drawback IMHO is the difficulty most people would have in broaching a Vee keyway inside the head casting. bearing in mind that this is a "one shot deal and any angular error will be magnified at the spindle. Robert Bastow ======== Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking Subject: Re: SINE BARS?? NEED HELP From: Robert Bastow Date: Mon, 12 Oct 1998 21:25:12 GMT -------- Phil Clark wrote: > Robert Bastow wrote: > > > angle slips > snip > > What is an angle slip please? > > I am a self taught, would-be, amateur machinist. My books don't cover > angle slips. Thanks That's what we called them, now called angle blocks and sold by MSC, Grizzly etc. Made of steel about 3-4"" long 1/2' thick, cyanide case hardened, stabilised with a liquid nitrogen quench, ground and lapped. Look like a set of parallels with the top edge "wonky" This because it is lapped to a very accurate included angle with the base. A good starter set would have angles from 5 deg, by 5deg steps to 30 deg. plus a 45 deg., and from 1 deg to 5 deg in steps of one deg. Used individually, or wrung together like Gage block they are a quick and accurate setup aid. I use them a hundred times more often than my sine bar or plate. You could add a further range of 5 minute slips os even 5second slips. but that would be overkill I can honestly say that in my entire career I have had to set up a non aliquot angle to +/-- 1 second of arc maybe three or four times. Robert Bastow ======== To: PLAlbrecht Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking Subject: Re: Are you all strange? From: Robert Bastow Date: Mon, 12 Oct 1998 21:34:15 GMT -------- Okay Okay already!! Uncle! Uncle! You are right I was wrong ! and I apologise in front of God and everybody. OK? Sorry you caught me on a day when my piles were giving me GYP!! It probably WILL happen again, so bear with me OK? Sheesh--settle down and take one of your tablets Perhaps a nap might help!! Hey...whose day is it it watch this guy anyway 8^) cordially Robert "todays butthead" Bastow ======== To: James Wilkins Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking Subject: Re: Can you use Slick 50 as Cutting and Tapping Oil ? From: Robert Bastow Date: Mon, 12 Oct 1998 21:47:09 GMT -------- James Wilkins wrote: > Robert Bastow wrote: > > > ...Don't believe me? Visit a > > jobbing machine shop and watch them tapping holes all day long on a > > drill, mill or lathe, and using HAND taps...often without benefit of a > > tapping head. > > I've tapped many electronics rack rails #10-32 with a hand-held VSR > drill, changing the tap every thousand or so holes in case it was > getting dull. I use my VSR to free hand tap up to 3/8" in steel and 1/2" in CI and ally. through or blind. No secret except a sharp tap (as James confirms).. the right lube, the courage of your convictions, and a good eye for square. > > > > ...Can anyone tell me where I might find some powdered graphite? > > Robert Bastow > > Lock oil. > > jw Ta s'much> Robert Bastow ======== Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking Subject: Re: Stolen Suburbans From: Robert Bastow Date: Tue, 13 Oct 1998 00:40:43 GMT -------- Mike Graham wrote: > I'm 6' 300 lbs. I've had experienced horse folks gape at the way I > can anchor a horse (i.e. keep them from going anywhere). .............. > I had the halter rope quite slack, because she calmed down that way, and > anyway I just braced myself and when she hit the end of the rope she > flipped right sideways off her feet. Hey, I guess this guy wasn't kidding when he said he was a bouncer in a biker bar. I had nasty reminder of the power of horses. (don't you love it when they stand on your foot and the harder you push 'em the more they bear down..) Many years ago I was going through a "horsey" phase and was into point to point and hunter trialing. I had a big, (17 1/2 hands) rangy, mean,sonofabitchin' , thoroughbred, ex-steeplechaser, called Tosca. I got him cheap, when they retired him early, with a split hoof, which we fixed with a bar-shoe. I was the only person he wouldn't try to kill in his loosebox. He tried it a couple of times and then we had a "Come to Jesus" meeting and he never tried it again..with me! The compensation was that this corn-fed fellah could run like the wind ..flat out over fences, across country....next best thing to s*x......Come to think of it....8^) Anyhoo, the only other person who could handle him in the paddock was a young slip of a lass who had the gift of hores talking. Mind you, if she had whispered an' cooed in MY ear the way she did HIS I would have followed her ANYplace she wanted to take me. Until , one morning she was leading him out for exercise, with a rope halter wrapped around her hand. For some unknown reason Tosca spooked and tossed his head. The girls thumb was torn clean out of its socket!!! Robert Bastow ======== Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking Subject: Re: Stolen Suburbans re-buke - british_ad.htm (0/1) - british_ad.gif (0/1) From: Robert Bastow Date: Tue, 13 Oct 1998 01:31:39 GMT -------- Gunner wrote: > gunner@lightspeed.net (Gunner) wrote: > > An interesting bit of trivia for those of you whom feel that British > gun laws are wonderful. This ad is from the 1940s, Taken from the > American Rifleman, the publication of the National Rifle Association. > Gramps sent several of his guns, including some handguns to help arm > the Brits, seems the silly buggers had taken most of the arms from the > subjects even then. And the Hun was knocking at their doors. > Enjoy your crow. > >Gunner > > For a period before I left England, I was an avid collector and shooter, mainly of muzzle loaders but I always had a couple of modern pistols about for "plinking" Back in those pre-ban days, one could get a Firearms Certificate (FAC... better known as a "ticket), if one could show good reason and usually only for use at a registered target range. Hovever you didn't need the contacts of "The Jackal" to easily pick up an "off ticket" weapon of ANY type. usually cheaper than a legal one. Every shooter and gun collector I ever met had several, if not many, "off ticket" guns. Well now they have banned all the legal hand guns and called them all in from the people that tried to follow the law. Do the silly buggers imagine they got all the OFF ticket guns as well...hell no but they can sop the public with that and THOSE stupid buggers will believe them. Well, now they have criminalised hand guns....by definition, only criminals will have guns, (Hmmm..where have I heard THAT truism before??) I can guarantee that if I were to return to Blighty and IF, for whatever reason, I needed a hand gun, an UZI, a Bazooka, or an M60 tank.I could lay my hands on one within 24 hours..Hey there's no waiting period or background check required! And my search would begin in the nearest pub! In fact, one transatlantic phone call, and I could have it waiting for me when I got off the plane!! So my fine British (OZ , Kiwi et.al. friends) get down off your high horses. Heck..the massacre of school kids in Scotland was by a Nutbar with an FAC and a LEGAL gun collection. Hey don't blame the guns or even the Barmpot shooter!! Blame the STUPID Police and Laws that allowed him to have one in the first place...With a mental record like his, he wouldn't be allowed, under current legislation, to buy one , legally, in the United States!! If he tried, he would be in for a sh**pot full of grief! As I recall both Oz and N.Z have had their share of people "Gone Postal" in each case with permitted weapons. Respectfully, Robert Bastow ======== Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking Subject: Re: Can you use Slick 50 as Cutting and Tapping Oil ? From: Robert Bastow Date: Tue, 13 Oct 1998 01:54:07 GMT -------- Michael P. Henry wrote: > What brands of taps and dies do you recommend? > AMERICAN!!! Cleveland is my first choice for "staples" but I have been very satisfied with "Generic" US made taps, when I need an expensive ,large nonstandard tap for a "One -off" I get most of my stuff from MSC..never had a complaint about quality or service. I bought a couple of tandem ACME taps on sale for $40.25 each. A left and a right hand 1/2" 10tpi, for a special project. Tested this weekend on Aluminum-Bronze and Con-Cast Iron, they worked like a treat. These, from MSC were "generic" USA manufacture. Truth be known these generics are probably made by the major "names" just as "Own Brand" products at the grocery store are made by Kelloggs etc. Robert Bastow ======== Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking Subject: Re: SINE BARS?? NEED HELP From: Robert Bastow Date: Tue, 13 Oct 1998 02:05:29 GMT -------- k.kinnison wrote: > Please keep response as simple as possible, > > bar elevation = bar length x sine of desired angle. > > so much for a simple answer, jeeeezzzzz > Lets not confuse the lad! If you actually read the response you will see that my post was not in response to the original question..Your research may show you that has already been done..simply!! My post was in fact in response to Mr. Clarks perfectly justified question regarding ANGLE BLOCKS!! > Robert Bastow wrote: > > > > Phil Clark wrote: > > > > > > > > > > What is an angle slip please? > > > > > > I am a self taught, would-be, amateur machinist. My books don't cover > > > angle slips. Thanks > > ======== Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking Subject: Re: Stolen Suburbans re-buke From: Robert Bastow Date: Tue, 13 Oct 1998 13:08:14 GMT -------- James Wilkins wrote: > It was acquaintances, not family members, but in practice it means your > (Huge snip) > Do you hear anyone campaigning against pleasure boats, or to require > steak to be sold as hamburger? No, neither of them is a way to attack > only conservatives. A first class, well thought out, and well written response James! ThankYou, Robert Bastow ======== Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking Subject: Re: Stolen Suburbans re-buke From: Robert Bastow Date: Tue, 13 Oct 1998 13:08:40 GMT -------- James Wilkins wrote: > It was acquaintances, not family members, but in practice it means your > (Huge snip) > Do you hear anyone campaigning against pleasure boats, or to require > steak to be sold as hamburger? No, neither of them is a way to attack > only conservatives. A first class, well thought out, and well written response James! ThankYou, Robert Bastow ======== Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking Subject: Re: SINE BARS?? NEED HELP From: Robert Bastow Date: Tue, 13 Oct 1998 13:16:58 GMT -------- k.kinnison wrote: > I certainly was not attacking the answer to the gentleman's post, only the > length at which this thread has grown. > Your post just happened to be most recent. > So before you wet yourself, I will apologize for any frustration I may have > caused you. > Possibly start a new thread on " ANGLE BLOCKS" would be interesting. I too, apologise Mr Kinnison, for over-reacting and not "looking before I leaped" However, though advancing years inevitably cause medical and physical problems incontinence is not one of mine yet! ;^) As to a new thread on angle blocks...I will leave that to someone else to start. I have said my piece on that subject. Sincerely, Robert Bastow ======== Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking Subject: Re: early turn benches, or lathes From: Robert Bastow Date: Tue, 13 Oct 1998 13:37:23 GMT -------- > Chas wrote: > > > I've been experimenting with a foot-powered wood lathe for a while, but > > would like to try a different variation. > > > > Chas Robert Bastow wrote: > One end was attached to a foot treadle with a heavy > flywheel......... One caveat Chas....On any treadle powered machine, especially one with a heavy fly wheel attached, be sure to include a "one way link" That is to say a crank arm with a slot in it or, of course, the chain drive, so that the fly wheel is driven by the treadle but the treadle cannot be driven by the fly wheel. Otherwise, when, not if, you or a bystander, get your foot under the treadle while the flywheel is freewheeling, it will simultaneously try to drive your foot into the ground and lift the machine in the air. The machine will win!! Not something you would enjoy and God forbid it should happen to a child at on of your demos. Regards, Robert Bastow ======== Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking Subject: Re: Double Lead Threads From: Robert Bastow Date: Tue, 13 Oct 1998 14:03:59 GMT -------- Jim Santee wrote: > How do you cut double lead threads? > > The only way I can think of is to cut one at 1/2 the TPI and then > disengage the lead and rotate the spindle 180 degrees by counting gear > teeth. Will that work? It seems error prone. I thought that I had > seen a post for another way. Yes that will work, so long as you make it clear that you mean disengage the gear drive 'twixt spindle and lead screw and not simply the half-nuts. An even simpler method is to wind back the topslide the required distance to start the second (or third or fourth) thread. The math is a little more complex if your topslide is set at half thread andgle but most people could figure it out. Working on the same principle as your suggestion there are indexing chucks and I have an indexing driver plate that will allow me to cut threads up to eight start...not that I ever contemplate cutting an eight start thread!!...... Life is too short for that! The simplest way, if you are turning between centers, is to have two or more tapped holes in your driver plate (some have two slots for precisely this purpose when using "safety dogs") Myself, I prefer straight dogs, and a straight pin, screwed into a flat plate that doubles as a small face plate. I always tape the driver to the pin to prevent overrun and those irritating "clonking" noises! Anyhow the trick is, after finishing the first thread, you simply remove the drive pin and replace it at 180 degrees, (for a two start..120deg, for a 3 start...90deg for a 4 start....you get the picture..) pop the job back between centers and continue cutting your next thread. That's it...s'F.M. 8^) Robert Bastow ======== Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking Subject: Re: Krono Labs "Kroilz" (sic.) Sought From: Robert Bastow Date: Tue, 13 Oct 1998 14:08:48 GMT -------- Gunner wrote: > Ill ask the boss at work tommorow, We got a can that works WONDERS for > rusted bolts, Works almost better than Coca Cola for breaking nuts. I agree, coke makes a great rust remover..but it makes it almost undrinkable afterwards! Robert Bastow Who was brought up by "Waste not..Want not" depression era parents!! > Gunner ======== Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking Subject: Re: How do you mill a cube accurately From: Robert Bastow Date: Tue, 13 Oct 1998 14:17:59 GMT -------- mulligan@advinc.com wrote: > In article <36219D0C.9A4EA853@hotmail.com>, > Robert Bastow wrote: > > > ...................."a good estimate in his > > mind"..Baloney! > > > > Good estimates are not baloney - yes, they have to be accurate. If > a vise has been off square, or the bridgeport head out of tram, then > eyeballing it and saying "right on" is not by any means a good > estimate. > > Good estimates, to be good, have to be accurate - or at least > have the magnitude of the uncertainty and its source understood. > Absolutely, Jim!! But the original post did not convey that context. > Example: > > Estimate how much *your* lathe deflects if pushed on. Imagine > putting a dial indicator in the toolpost, and touching off on > a part in the spindle. Then simply lean on the headstock, as > one often sees done. > Learned that my first day on a lathe as an apprentice, leaned on thetailstock, got a cuff around the ear AND an explanation from the Toolroom Superintendent!! Also picked up on "First you got to get their Attention!!" Robert Bastow ======== Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking Subject: Re: How do you mill a cube accurately From: Robert Bastow Date: Tue, 13 Oct 1998 14:27:48 GMT -------- One final (from me) comment on the subject and then I'll shut up!! I eventually learned, and took pains to pass on to MY apprentices is this. "Extreme accuracy, in your workshop and your methods is not achieved overnight.! Rather it is the slow, methodical, attention to detail, that will inevitably bring the desired results". Robert Bastow ======== Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking Subject: Re: Double Lead Threads From: Robert Bastow Date: Tue, 13 Oct 1998 15:57:33 GMT -------- Richard H. Williams wrote: > Good Info Robert. > > We have done this using a similar technique. Chuck a piece of CRS in a 4 jaw > and turn a center. Use the chuck jaws as a driver for the dog. You could do > a 2 start or a 4 start thread like this. Chuck jaws are accurately spaced. > If there is a problem, usually the dog will spin on the work. Never lost a > chuck yet. 3 start threads? Use a jaw chuck. BRILLIANT!! That,s one I never thought of, and a technique anyone can use, Me included!! Thank you, Robert Bastow ======== Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking Subject: Re: Metal VS Wood From: Robert Bastow Date: Tue, 13 Oct 1998 16:04:32 GMT -------- plastic wrote: > >We insult Bob Vila plenty ! > > > >He deserves it, too. > > Who is he and why does he deserve insulting? OH-OH! Plastic's looking for a new playmate!! ======== To: Misty & Sean Foley Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking Subject: Re: Double Lead Threads From: Robert Bastow Date: Wed, 14 Oct 1998 00:59:35 GMT -------- Misty & Sean Foley wrote: > Could someone please humour the village idiot and explain the how a double > lead thread is used?...Tinker In a double lead nut...silly. 8^) Robert ======== Newsgroups: comp.robotics.misc,sci.engr,sci.engr.mech,sci.engr.manufacturing,rec.crafts.metalworking Subject: Re:Slick 50...LOOONG! From: Robert Bastow Date: Wed, 14 Oct 1998 03:00:22 GMT -------- Todd Rogers wrote: > Exactly. For tapping all you really need is something to lubricate > (lower friction and remove chips) and act as a coolant. For hand > tapping, almost anything would work (you could probably even get away > with water, though your tools might not last as long that way). Sorry Todd, with all due respect I gotta tell you it ain't so simple. Hand tapping is one of the most arduous machining operations,both for the tap, the resulting thread and for the operator,especially if he doesn't do it every day, and he is tapping 6-32, with a relic tap, in a component that has taken him a year of precious part time to make, and it is made of some tough, stringy "stuff" of indeterminate parentage!!! (Pause for deep breath!) It doesn't pay to be cavalier and slosh on any liquid that comes to hand. Sorry, but water, beer, moonshine,baby oil,or slick 50, won't hack it! (I almost said ..won't cut it! But you'd think I was trying to be "punny") Bear in mind that a tap, especially a hand tap is stressed to it's limit under the best of conditions. Of necessity, the core (the bit down the middle of the tap!!!) is way undersized on a small tap, it is purposely weakened by a host of "stress risers" (32 per inch in this case) it is taking a cut that would stall a small lathe, and on a larger one, single pointing a thread with this depth of cut would result in a badly torn thread. Chuck in a surface speed, ** a tenth of the recommended one and you have a serious problem, just looking for a place to happen. **The reason you get better cutting action close to the maximum speed the tool and the material can stand is that cutting metal is NOT like cutting wood!! A sharp paring chisel or a well set plane actually SHEAR the fibers of wood. Finish is not a function of speed, so much as a function of sharpness. "Cutting" metal is almost the exact opposite..it is a process of PLASTIC DEFORMATION. That is to say, a metal cutting tool does not slice and wedge itself under the surface like a wood chisel..rather it applies EXTREME PRESSURE to the work piece that, coupled with the forward SPEED, creates a zone of extreme HEAT that PLASTICISES the metal and eventually, (rather quickly in practice) it decides to find a friendlier environment, SLIDES over the tool and escapes, taking most of the heat with it! You have probably been made aware of this common phenomenon, by the occasional hot chip down your shirt neck!! (Don't you just HATE that?...Now at least you know WHY! It will also help to explain why, switching from a positive to a negative rake insert, will remove more metal faster, using LESS HP, leave a better finish and a cooler work piece! (Please forgive all my caps..I'm not shouting.....just trying to emphasise the important bits.) The reason a tool wears has not so much to do with abrasion (Which is what blunts a wood chisel) but more to do with the hot metal, welding to the tool surface and physically tearing tiny lumps out of it on its way to your shirt neck. If you doubt my veracity, do a simple test: Take a piece of wood, six inches long, And with a sharp plane take a continuous shaving end to end. Next, take a piece of mild steel the same length, set it up in a shaper and take a good cut end to end. Use a catchers mitt to save your specimen...And your tender neck!! Now, measure the length, width and thickness of the two shavings and compare with the original length,dept and width of your cuts. ( this is an example assignment I used to set to first year engineering student/apprentices at the local Technical College Ok...Back to our original hand tapping problem. Understanding better, the arduous conditions the poor little blighter is expected to put up with, and expecting a pristine thread and an intact heirloom at the end, it behooves us to be sympathetic and to offer the best assistance we can! Consider that, at the speed of a hand tap, very little heat is generated, thus little plastic deformation takes place, thus extreme pressures of the chip on the tooth are created....Add to that, the fact that a tap has no radial relief means that it is also doing a certain amount of cold forming and burnishing! Busy little bugger isn't he?...and you thought YOU were doing all the hard work!!! So what does he need?...Certainly not cooling, which IS a concern in high speed tapping. What he needs is LUBRICATION and lubrication of a HIGH PRESSURE type NOT Slick 50 ferchrissake!...REAL HP additives...the best that money can buy!! Go to a jobbing machine shop...just like we HSM's, these guys have to watch every penny, indeed it comes down to tenths of a penny..just to stay in business! Observe what they use for (the occasional, hopefully) hand tapping job. Fer sure it ain't water! Nor is it machine oil, spindle oil, baby oil, way oil, Slick 50, or any other oily, or greasy fluid that happens to fall to hand or is the "Deal of the Week" at the local Wallymart! What he uses is the best that money can buy..like his taps! He uses a custom formulated, well researched and developed, trusted brand name, dedicated hand tapping fluid that, chintzy as he has to be, he springs all of SIX BUCKS for a can that will last him quite a while, used on a twenty-four/seven basis. I wonder why? Sorry for rambling on Guys but I find........ It helps to figure out HOW ? If you better understand the WHY! Thanks for bearing with me. Robert Bastow ======== Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking Subject: Re:Gun snatch From: Robert Bastow Date: Wed, 14 Oct 1998 04:57:05 GMT -------- Robert Bastow wrote: > I can guarantee that if I were to return to Blighty and IF, for > whatever reason, I needed a hand gun, an UZI, a Bazooka, or an M60 tank.I > could lay my hands on one within 24 hours..Hey there's no waiting period > or background check required! And my search would begin in the nearest > pub! In fact, one transatlantic phone call, and I could have it waiting > for me when I got off the plane!! > As a follow up I made that transatlantic call...to my best buddy in the UK. Yes the Filth (Polite English for police) have snatched his legal pistols.. A 9mm Hi-Power, 1911AI Colt and a Bergmann-Mars Automatic. In this last instance, this is a crime against humanity the B-M is a rare, surviving example of a VERY early automatic, renowned for the power of its ammunition. (which is no longer available..not that it matters ..he would no more think of shooting it, than you would your great-great- grandpappies, original, low numbered, mint condition, Walker Colt .44 !!) HOWEVER!.....They never even knew about..so left him with... a collection of over a hundred, OFF-Ticket Pistols (he collects historically interesting automatics, mainly 9mm and all military and or prototypes. I asked him how come he only had three pistols left on his permit and so many off-ticket (about the reverse of what he had when I left England, twenty three years ago) He told me that he, and a lot of other collectors had seen the writing on the wall, many, many years ago, and he had, over the years, sold his "legal" pistols and replaced them with off-ticket weapons. The Bergmann-Mars was irreplaceable, so he just hung on to it to the bitter end. The other two were "Junkers" so that he would have something to give the "Rozzers" to keep them happy. I asked how he felt about the Ban. He said "Great, now I can move my collection from the cellar, to the Gun Room" (Hardened, steel door, Bars, alarms etc, required by previous law, of any FAC permitted gun owner, and subject to random inspection, at ANY time by ANY police officer without warrant!) "Best part is" he chuckled, " the filth won't be popping round at midnight any more, cos they think they cleaned me out!) Its a f***ing JOKE, Guys! OBTW, he still has the Browning Hi-Power, the single action Colt.45 Bisley, the 1911A1, AND the 9mm Sten mk 11 submachine gun, that I left with him 23 years ago! "Sure" he said, " I'll pick you up at the airport any time you come over" "No problem..I'll bring the guns if you need them" "What are you gonna do?...Start a f***in' WAR!....Hey you need anything else..let me know....Charlie still has that box of Mills grenades his Dad brought back from the war!) Gentlemen, the Defense Rests. Robert Bastow ======== Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking Subject: Re: to Curt on Double Lead Threads From: Robert Bastow Date: Wed, 14 Oct 1998 05:06:18 GMT -------- Richard, W. wrote: > Every time I thought of this there were no engineers around to ask. So this is > my idea of why a multi start thread is better in certain instances. For what > it's worth. May be some one has a better reason than mine? > > Richard W. Quite simple really! Pitch for pitch, a multi start can be more compact and/or stiffer, especially in compression, than the same pitch in a single start. Most ball screws, for CNC positioning are multi-start. Robert Bastow ======== Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking Subject: Re: Heavy Black "Fibered" Grease From: Robert Bastow Date: Wed, 14 Oct 1998 05:31:02 GMT -------- plastic wrote: > > > Okay I give up, what's a 5th wheel for a truck? > Jeez, did you just arrive from Mars? [8^o) The "fifth wheel" on a truck is the STEERING wheel, what else? The sticky black grease is used to hold the drivers hands on the wheel when he takes his legally required nap every few hours. That way they can put it on Cruise Control..kinda like automatic pilot on a 'plane....and keep right on rolling. You see it often on roads in this country, where, you know, of course, that truck grivers are renowned as "Knights of the Road" for their courtesy, their driving skills and of course their patience and consideration for those of us not able to drive as fast as they can, especially in the fast lane at rush hour. Sometimes they will encourage you with melodious, but very genteel little "toots" on their ubiquitous, multi-tone air horns.Quite enchanting, if I may say so. Why, only the other day one came up behind my V12 Jaguar and offered to push me , very gently, of course. But I decline and moved over for him. I felt that 155mph was plenty fast enough for a doddering old POOFTAH like me! Cheers, Robert Bastow ======== Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking Subject: Re: master copy type From: Robert Bastow Date: Wed, 14 Oct 1998 06:21:13 GMT -------- titanium@mich.com wrote: > I would like to find out how can go about making my own brass master > copy type used with a pantograph for engraving. Anybody have any ideas? > Thanks > Ralph > titanium@mich.com Been there done that; two simple ways.. Simple way #1 (the one I used) Check in yellow pagers for an _Industrial_ engraving company (not one of these chicken scratch gift or trophy shops) Go down there with a case of premium brew. Explain your problem (they may even have a spare set) Offer to leave a substantial deposit if they will loan you a set of master type for twenty four hours. Drive home _quickly_ and make as many copies in as many sizes as possible. Return promply, and repeat with other fonts. PS. If your pantograph is remotely portable you may have a quicker nod to taking it down there and copying "in situ" PPS. They will be able to put you on to a supplier af brass strip stock that comes in a variety of sizes, ready dovetailed! You just cut it to length. Simple way #2... Draw out your type full size. stick to straight lines and one or two standard radii. Co-ordinate dimension all the straight X and Y cuts try to design for a minimum of different lengths make a full size master for each radius, in the form of a vee groove to suit your follower. do the same for each X and Y cut and each diagonal for Q W R Y K Z (X is same as Z, so is V &A) You can do all this on the pantagraph, on brass stock using straight edges a few stops, and bits and pieces that catch your eye as you get the hang of it. What you are building up are all the bits that you would find on a stencil, only instead of all being neatly punched in a piece of card they are all in a little heap.. you get the drift.. Hint, do the curves in a letter first. FLASH TRAFFIC!! Don't know why I didnt think of it before. Go to your local drafting or artist supplier an get one of those thick plastic Lettering templates, not a stencil but the ones that have all the bits of each complete letter, laid out neatly in rows. To use them you shift the template laterally to line up the elements. You will be able to use it in exactly the same way on your machine. Let me know how you make out Cheers Robert Bastow. ======== Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking Subject: Re: Weight of air, please? From: Robert Bastow Date: Wed, 14 Oct 1998 06:45:31 GMT -------- Elliot Burke wrote: > At STP air weighs 1.29 g/l > there are 1728 cubic inches in a cubic foot and 61 cubic inches in a litre, > so > 1.29 x 1728/61 = 36.543 g/cu ft > there are 28.35 grams / oz, so > 36.543 / 28.35 = 1.29 oz / cu ft > > isn't that neat? > Something's cockeyed Somewhere! Just estimating: If average atmospheric pressure is 14,7 lb/sq ft at sea level And average atmospheric pressure at (say) 20,000 ft is negligible. And the drop in density is assumed to be linear. This means a column of air of constant density 10000 feet high X 1 ft square weighs 14,7 lb 14,7 / 10000 = 0.00147 lb/cu.ft If atmospheric pressure extends out further, the effect is to reduce that figure. atmospheric air contains moisture dry air would weigh less Am I missing something here? ======== Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking Subject: Re: Weight of air, please? From: Robert Bastow Date: Wed, 14 Oct 1998 09:23:15 GMT -------- Robert Bastow wrote: > > Elliot Burke wrote: > > > At STP air weighs 1.29 g/l > > there are 1728 cubic inches in a cubic foot and 61 cubic inches in a litre, > > so > > 1.29 x 1728/61 = 36.543 g/cu ft > > there are 28.35 grams / oz, so > > 36.543 / 28.35 = 1.29 oz / cu ft > > > > isn't that neat? > > > > Something's cockeyed Somewhere! > > Just estimating: > > If average atmospheric pressure is 14,7 lb/sq ft > at sea level > And average atmospheric pressure at (say) 20,000 ft > is negligible. > And the drop in density is assumed to be linear. > This means a column of air of constant density > 10000 feet high X 1 ft square weighs 14,7 lb > > 14,7 / 10000 = 0.00147 lb/cu.ft > > If atmospheric pressure extends out further, the effect > is to reduce that figure. > > atmospheric air contains moisture dry air would weigh less > > Am I missing something here? OK!OK! Mea Culpa Before all the scientific erks leap in and verbally rip me a new one I just realised wher I went wrong!! Atmospheric pressure is, of course 14,7 lb/sq INCH!!!!!!!!!!! Would "Sorry" help? 8^) Robert Bastow ======== Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking Subject: Re: Weight of air, please? From: Robert Bastow Date: Wed, 14 Oct 1998 20:37:10 GMT -------- Louis Boyd wrote: > I thought everyone checked Machinery's handbook first! :-) > > Lou Boyd Naw!...We all figure we know it by heart!! ;^) Robert Bastow ======== Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking Subject: Re: Making Very Small Holes - Funny Story From: Robert Bastow Date: Wed, 14 Oct 1998 21:05:30 GMT -------- brian whatcott wrote: > In another version, a metal tube is sent, and it is returned (from the U.K in this > case) with three nested tubes and a wire in the interior. > > Brian Whatcott Altus OK That company was Tube Investments, a company I used to work for. SFAIAA it is a true story, never heard about the wire though. Robert Bastow ======== Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking Subject: Re: Slick 50...LOOONG! From: Robert Bastow Date: Thu, 15 Oct 1998 01:05:53 GMT -------- Tom Holt wrote: > > > [excellent post snipped] > > Thanks; now tell us what we *really* need to know - how to get the > bits of broken tap out of the hole after you've snapped the ruddy > thing off flush... I dunno..never happened to ME!! ;^) I have never had much succes with tap extractors. Sometimes, but not often, you can gently tap the gruesome remains out in reverse with a small ,flat pointed punch and a SMALL hammer If the component is "not for pretty" I take a stout flat nose punch and a BIG hammer and just belt the sucker right on through!! Itworks better than you might imagine, as the tap threads/flutes being more brittle than the tappee, shear right off and the threads, usually are not much damaged. Best way is to find a local company that will EDM it out. There was thread, recently about, this that came up with dome chemical solutions that I have no experience of. Robert Bastow ======== Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking Subject: Re: Stolen Suburbans From: Robert Bastow Date: Thu, 15 Oct 1998 01:49:22 GMT -------- Paul Amaranth wrote: > > > I don't like hearing about people actually *beating* horses, but if > >you give them a light punch in the side of the nose *very* quickly > >after they do something wrong (within three seconds) then it's very > >effective. I don't like to hear about anybody beating anything living, so please don't get the impression that I beat my horse. Our "come to Jesus meeting" lasted a whole lot less than three seconds!! He came at me, in the loose box, teeth bared, determined to rip my face off. For a split second it was him or me! At the time I was an pretty good, amateur, light heavyweight boxer.(Jeez! Where did this other 100Lbs come from??) My instincts took over and I nailed him at the side of his jaw! (a la Blazing Saddles!) Knocked all 17 1/2 hands of him flat on his ass! Never had a problem thereafter..but had to quit boxing because I broke just about every bone in my hand!! ! Went to the ER with my right ring finger sticking out the palm of my hand! Robert Bastow ======== Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking Subject: Re: All read please From: Robert Bastow Date: Thu, 15 Oct 1998 17:18:33 GMT -------- As in most things in life, there is no hard and fast "right and wrong way"...In this or anything else. My preference, depends on the source to which I am replying: For news groups and subscriber lists, I prefer to see and receive, a sensibly edited quote of comment, or question first, followed by response. That way, all readers have the opportunity to understand what the response is all about, with out having to scroll down first and then return to top of page, to read the response. It is quicker and seems more natural to me, to read down rather than down, up, down again. On the other hand, when recieving or sending a response, one on one, to an INDIVIDUAL, I usually assume that they know the question they asked, and put the response first, with a severely edited or deleted question last. I find this to be a generally accepted format over a wide spectrum of correspondents. My pet peeve on news groups is to read hare-brained responses, from people who have obviously no knowledge or experience of the subject, who have OBVIOUSLY failed to read and comprehend previous accurate and definitive responses, and who are taking a "Flyer" just to see their name in print!! This happens a LOT on this NG. IMHO an obviously, technical NG is a forum where one can and should expect, to tap into knowledge, experience and wisdom. In a perfect world, one should not expect to have to wade through a sea of bullshit to get to the truth! Robert Bastow ======== Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking Subject: Re: Gunz.. From: Robert Bastow Date: Thu, 15 Oct 1998 18:00:21 GMT -------- CharlieDIY wrote: > > Good idea. We've got laws on the books that regulate social mores, including > what a man or woman may wear, in a manner more fitting to Victorian ideas (or > at least those Victorian ideas that were publicly expressed). That bastion of > over-simplificaton, Reader's Digest, used to run articles on such idiotic laws > but seems to have quit in recent years. > > In some areas it is still legally necessary for someone to precede a motorized > vehicle carrying a lantern, or so I am told. > > Charlie Self > Word Worker I believe oral sex is still against the law in several states. I'll bet a lot of us would have to be mighty hungry to prefer eating steak!! And a large percentage of the population sould be serving life sentences as "three time losers"!!!!!! ;^) Robert "Muff Diver" Bastow ======== Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking Subject: Re: Anti-Jacknife..was Black grease From: Robert Bastow Date: Thu, 15 Oct 1998 18:21:59 GMT -------- Martin H. Eastburn wrote: > > Ok Ok - I'll be straight this time. :) > > The fifth wheel is the metal plate in the middle of the bed > of a pickup that is set up to tow a trailer. > > These are small versions of those used on large Tractor-trailers > that are around the world. > > It looks somewhat like a horseshoe. > > The Grease is needed to lube the plate. > In the UK and probably the rest of the EEC, tractor?trailers have been required, for many years, to be fitted with an "anti-jacknife" auto-locking coupling. This allows for extreme angle,low speed turns but locks up solid in an emergency braking, high speed situation and effectively prevents THE KILLER...."Jackknife" event. As I recall these couplings are not greased. I don't think these are mandated or even available, in the US...I saw a multiple death accident only recently...Where a TT rig had jacknifed at high speed and "wiped out" several other vehicles. Carnage!! Robert Bastow Robert Bastow ======== Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking Subject: Re: Metal VS Wood From: Robert Bastow Date: Thu, 15 Oct 1998 19:02:39 GMT -------- Ted Edwards wrote: > > Lately our accrual rate has gone from about 100/day to about 200/day. > The majority of these have nothing to do with metalwork. I have no > interest in "stolen suburbans", "junkyard dogs" or "harleys". The odd > diversion is fun but I am unwilling to spend the amount of time required > to plow through a couple hundred off topic posts. I guess I can say > that I see the problem as two fold. Far to many off topic posts and far > too many repititions probably due to folk not reading other replies > before posting. What you all do about it, if anything, is up to you but > if this trend continues, I for one won't be here. > > Ted Well said, Ted. Me too! I enjoy some of the rambling threads but they do have half lives approaching that of plutonium! Maybe it's time to kill a few, and lets see what next our fertile, but unfocused, collective minds can come up with! Robert Bastow Who will sin no more. Yeh!...Right!! ;^) ======== Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking Subject: Re: Metal VS Wood From: Robert Bastow Date: Thu, 15 Oct 1998 19:12:13 GMT -------- plastic wrote: > > Ted Edwards wrote: > Far to many off topic posts and far > >too many repititions probably due to folk not reading other replies > >before posting. What you all do about it, if anything, is up to you but > >if this trend continues, I for one won't be here. > > > >Ted > > > Buy now. > > Regards > David Lamprell Surprise! Surprise! Another pearl of wisdom from our Ass...Er...AUssie, "Enfant Terrible"! Buy WHAT David? I wasn't aware Ted was selling anything!! Sorry, but you walked right into that one David! All in jest of course. ;^) Robert Bastow ======== Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking Subject: Re: Any body doing any metalwork? (or, 'nother good day in the shop) From: Robert Bastow Date: Thu, 15 Oct 1998 19:46:54 GMT -------- James Wilkins wrote: > > Curt Brown wrote: > > > > > What type/style/size boring bar do you use to pass down a long tiny > > hole? > > > > - Curt > > Old, long ones made from drill rod(?) The limiting factor of length/diameter is always deflection and its soulmate..Chatter! The determining factor of deflection under load, is the "stiffness" of the material...Called "Youngs Modulus" or "E" The Youngs Modulus, (to paraphrase a recent contributor,) "for any material that can pass itself off as steel, from low carbon junk, at 30,000 psi tensile, to high alloy, heat-treated, Maraging Steel at 250,000 psi, is exactly the same at 30X10power6!" In other words, two samples of similar cross section and length, will deflect the SAME distance, providing the load is below the YIELD POINT of the weaker material. The only difference between the two, in this example, is the load required, and the distance deflected, before deflection is PERMANENT. Boring bars, made from each material, of similar dimensions, would each have the SAME performance down a deep hole. The ONLY way to STIFFEN a boring bar is to choose a material with a higher Youngs Modulus! In Industry the choice is solid Tungsten Carbide...Spendy but VERY effective. Note: Many designs of "Anti-Chatter" or "Vibration Damping" boring bars have been put on the market, Some, plumb don't work worth a rats ass! Some are VERY effective! All are more expensive that solid carbide bars. Robert Bastow ======== Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking Subject: Re: Who supplies mechanical prototyping kits? From: Robert Bastow Date: Thu, 15 Oct 1998 20:00:16 GMT -------- brian whatcott wrote: > > On Thu, 15 Oct 1998 10:19:18 -0400, Alex Koelb,euroserve@mediaone.net > says... > > > >Hi, there: > >Does anyone know where I can buy a mechanical prototyping kit, i.e. > >miniature components like wheels, gears, clutches, shafts, springs, > >slides, motors, bearings and anything for experimental work and tests? > >Alex > > > There was one incomparable resource: Meccano ( a metal construction set) > There were beautiful brass spurs and worms and crowns, angle strips and thin > plates, curves and all.... Still have a box of stuff somewhere. Good suggestion, The Berg et. al. stuff is VERY spendy! Meccanno is still on the market, I believe they have a web site, or at least a NG. Robert Bastow ======== Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking Subject: Re: Anti-Jacknife..was Black grease From: Robert Bastow Date: Fri, 16 Oct 1998 01:09:41 GMT -------- John Stevenson (very rudely)wrote: > > On Thu, 15 Oct 1998 18:21:59 GMT, Robert Bastow wrote: > > >In the UK and probably the rest of the EEC, tractor?trailers have been required, > >for many years, to be fitted with an "anti-jacknife" auto-locking coupling. > >This allows for extreme angle,low speed turns but locks up solid in an emergency > >braking, high speed situation and effectively prevents THE KILLER...."Jackknife" > >event. > > > >As I recall these couplings are not greased. > > Load of bollocks. > There is No regs here either EEC or otherwise to require artics to have anti > jackknife couplings. > They played with these a few years ago but dropped them. > > John Stevenson at > Well EXCUUUUSE me!! Should have deferred to the REAL EXPERT! Thank you for your prompt correction John. Certainly, for several years before I left that benighted (and Blighted) land,in 1976, there WAS a legal requirement for the anti-jacknife device. Why and when, they dropped it, I will leave you to explain. Or maybe it is well before your time. You sound (and certainly ACT) as though you might be far too young to remember so far back. Respectfully as ever Robert Bastow ======== Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking Subject: Re: Gunz.. From: Robert Bastow Date: Fri, 16 Oct 1998 01:21:25 GMT -------- Eric R. Snow wrote: > > Robert Bastow wrote: > > > >I believe oral sex is still against the law in several states. I'll bet a lot of > >us would have to be mighty hungry to prefer eating steak!! And a large > >percentage of the population sould be serving life sentences as "three time > >losers"!!!!!! ;^) > > > >Robert "Muff Diver" Bastow > After reading some of the posts I'll bet that there are a lot of guys > that wouldn't go diving. And I imagine that there are even some who > have no clue what you are talking about. I don't mean non-americans > either. > ERS I'll see your Shopsmith and raise you a Bridgeport on that wild assumption!! The rest of the world has known about "muff diving" for centuries before Linda Lovelace finally introduced it to the Americans! 8^o Robert Bastow ======== Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking Subject: Re: Metal VS Wood From: Robert Bastow Date: Fri, 16 Oct 1998 01:28:24 GMT -------- plastic wrote: > > Robert Bastow wrote: > > > > >> By now. > >> > >> Regards > >> David Lamprell > > > > > >Surprise! Surprise! > > > >Another pearl of wisdom from our Ass...Er...AUssie, "Enfant Terrible"! > > > >Buy WHAT David? I wasn't aware Ted was selling anything!! > > > >Sorry, but you walked right into that one David! > > > >All in jest of course. ;^) > > > >Robert Bastow > > > Touche, I did, walk into that so I have modified my screw up. Hope you > got a laugh anyway. > > Regards > David Lamprell As always David, as always, mon frere. 8^) Robert Bastow ======== Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking Subject: Re: Metal VS Wood From: Robert Bastow Date: Fri, 16 Oct 1998 02:43:59 GMT -------- darby wrote: > > bye now (I did so look it up) > > darb > > plastic wrote: > > Touche, I did, walk into that so I have modified my screw up. Hope you > > got a laugh anyway. > > > > Regards > > David Lamprell Be patient with him, God hasn't quite finished with him yet! That or he was built on a Friday!!! Or maybe he was too busy, pushing his way to the front of the Dick Line, and didn't have time to go through the Brains Line! David, three strikes and you're out! Can you say "Dik-shon-ary"? 8^) 8^) 8^) Robert Bastow ======== Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking Subject: Re:Double Lead Threads-Bottle molds From: Robert Bastow Date: Sat, 17 Oct 1998 07:20:56 GMT -------- Richard, W. wrote: > > I guess we may never know. It could also be the way the engineer wanted it done. > > Richard W. "Kurt says... > > > >I dunno. They are much more intricate than those on a pop (soda) bottle. > >They gotta be harder to mold as well. . . > > > >>I would think that the multi start on the OJ bottle would have more > >>to do with the molding of the threads. > >> Richard W For a long period, I had subcontracts for bottle molds for a large glass plant. Molds were turned from split, doweled and clamped blanks machined from close grained grey iron After roughing out the interior, it was turned to finish shape on a German made hydraulic copying lathe. This machine had a second spindle behind the main spindle and geared to it. The drive ratio could be set at 1:1, 1:2, 1:3, etc. There was a corresponding second bed and tailstock for the second spindle. With this spindle you had a choice of copying from a flat plate master, held in special clamps, a stationary cylindrical master, held between centers,or a rotating master, if the finished job was anything but round. For instance,we could finish machine,ready for thread milling and polishing, an exact internal,mirror image mould for an old fashioned style, Coca-cola bottle..including the logos and lettering!! The multi-start threads in the mould were then cut by thread milling, on a thread milling machine using a solid shank milling cutter of the correct profile about 3/8" dia. We ground these from standard "Woodruff" keyway cutters. If you take a close look ar the moulded thread on a bottle or jar, you will observe that the thread does not go all the way round the neck. It stops with a radiused "Higby" just short of the mould part line, and recommences with another "Higby" just the other side of it. This is done to eliminate problems with a raised part-line or flash on the thread itself. Whether a MARKETING Dept, or PURCHASER of the bottles, specifies 3, 5, 7, or any other number of starts to the thread, is of supreme indifference to the toolmaker that makes the mould, or the engineer that runs the moulding plant..It's just metal to cut and glass to mould. Robert Bastow ======== Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking Subject: Re: Collets: R8 vs 5C. From: Robert Bastow Date: Sat, 17 Oct 1998 07:46:53 GMT -------- ppierce wrote: > I have a couple of 5C mounted chucks. 3" 4 jaw, and 4" 3 jaw. > They come in other sizes. > > I use also a Jacobs chuck with a 3/4" straight arbor in a 5C in the > headstock of my lathe... They all go real nice in the spindex... > > -- > Paul in AJ AZ, I too have the 5C mounted chucks. 3" 4 jaw, and 3 jaw from Sherline. Excellent quality and VERY useful. I am just putting the finishing touches to an upgrade of my spin indexer to a full blown 40:1 worm and wheel dividing/rotary machining center, complete with division plates and sectors. Very similar to a blown up G H Thomas Versatile Dividing Head This will take all my 5C tooling from the lathe including a custom 6" dia face plate with tee slots. The head will fit on the lathe tee slotted cross slide, on my hefty, shop made vertical slide, and on my shaper and mill. I have always wanted to have an integrated shop, and this goes a long way towards that goal The one draw back of 5C collets appears to be that lack of holding power for extreme operations. I strongly suggest R8 for a mill. Robert Bastow ======== Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking Subject: Re: Gunz..(+ humor) From: Robert Bastow Date: Sat, 17 Oct 1998 08:05:32 GMT -------- Two High School kids have gone "Parkin' and Sparkin'" and are steaming up the windows in a remote, dark, parking area. A bright light and a rap on the widow disturbs them. "And just what do you think you're doing?" Says the Cop. "Just necking" says the boy. "Then put your neck back in your pants, and move on." Says the Cop! Robert Bastow ======== Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking Subject: Re: Toolroom Lathe? From: Robert Bastow Date: Sat, 17 Oct 1998 08:24:29 GMT -------- GMasterman wrote: > > How do define a toolroom lathe What makes a toolroom lathe different from any > other lathe of similar size? Any ideas? Gerry Size for size, 1000 to 2000 lbs of extra weight Built to higher standards of precision. Higher top speed, wider range of speeds, feeds and threads. Extra "goodies"...high speed threading, retractable topslide better, more acurate feedscrews etc.,etc... Robert Bastow ======== Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking Subject: Re:Radius v Dia dials From: Robert Bastow Date: Sat, 17 Oct 1998 08:42:44 GMT -------- rabue@my-dejanews.com wrote: >Things like dials > that read directly in thousandths taken off the diameter, Whether you like direct diameter reading dials, or radius reading is a matter of personsonal preference. I have replaced the 2.25" dia. direct reading dials on my Maximat Super II with 3.25" dia, black anodised aluminum radius reading dials from Sherline. Reasons: When I had my own T&D shop with several lathes..I never had anyone take off too much because of a radius dial...happened all the time on the direct ones. direct dials are ok for a machine that has a single operator per shift and an operator who runs only that or similar lathes. I prefer to have similar increments/division on top slide, cross slide, carriage, tailstock,vertical slide, mill shaper.etc.. Using the lathe for many different functions, as most of us do makes a direct reading dial a pain in the a**. IMHO direct dials are a challenge to Murphy!! Robert Bastow ======== Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking Subject: Re: How does one friction weld on lathe? From: Robert Bastow Date: Sun, 18 Oct 1998 06:13:52 GMT -------- Bill Machrone wrote: > > When I was a youngster I watched my dad friction weld a drill onto an > I tried to do the same thing today, needing to put a metric thread on a > piece of 1/4" CRS rod. I faced the top of a small bolt and a rod, > chucked them up and ran them together. > They got a little warm and they graunched a few times, then the bar > deflected a bit. When I stopped the lathe, the bolt had little > stalactites of steel that it had torn out of the end of the rod, but no > overall welding, just these little spots. > > I straightened the bar, cleaned up the ends, and tried it again. Same > result. > > Is there a technique to this, or should I stop trying to destroy my > lathe? > > - Bill A friction welding machine runs the two parts together under pressure fore a preset time, until they reach FORGE welding heat. It then stops DEAD an rams the two parts together under enormous pressure, and a carefully controlled distance. I have had tens of thousands of parts friction welded to make blanks for after market photocopier rollers. These were made from aluminum, stainless, or MS and comprised a drawn tubular body and two solid end pieces. Both welds were made simultaneously on specialized equipment by my vendor. In every case the rule was that the cross section of the ends must be similar. In the case of tube to solid end piece, I had to prepare the end pieces by drilling them, bore dia of the tube for about 1/4 x bore dia., and, if necessary, turning down the o/d for the same distance. After a little experimenting, we were successful in getting SS ends welded to aluminum bodies. As to whether you should do it on your lathe...It is a useful technique to use in an emergency...like on the (usually) beat up lunker in the millwrights shop. But I wouldn't like to do it on my own lathe. Robert Bastow ======== To: frwillia@ptw.com Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking Subject: Re: What is the difference between a Form Tap, Plug Tap, Bottoming Tap, and a Taper Tap ? From: Robert Bastow Date: Sun, 18 Oct 1998 15:37:53 GMT -------- Fitch R. Williams wrote: > > Robert Bastow wrote: > > >Sadly most > >"botttomed" threads I have ever had to cut from drawings were the result > >of a designer that didn't know his a** from a hole in the ground!! I > >have never bought a taper or a bottoming tap (for home use) > > The only bottom tapping I have had to do at home was in the "T" slotted cross > slide I made for the 9" south Bend. So I have a 5/16" and 3/8" bottoming tap. > The issue there is the need to keep the cross slide thin to maximize swing over > it, and provide threads, and maybe very important, to avoid the situation where > somebody gets in a contest of wills with a bolt that is slightly to long and > jams it into the thread taper and either splits the casting or jams the bolt. > > I can see a number of design situations where one would use bottoming threads. > We use them a lot in the space business because no designer worh employing in > the space craft business, especially the rocket engine business, is going to > make anything weigh even an oz more than necessary just to avoid having to use a > bottoming tap. And nobody wants to sacrifice any strength or reliability > either. The design window is very small in a lot of cases. > As I stated Fitch, there are notable exceptions, and these are two that definitely fall under that heading. The Southbend application being by FAR the most critical!! ;^) Robert Bastow ======== Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking Subject: Re: Expletive to be deleted From: Robert Bastow Date: Sun, 18 Oct 1998 15:49:11 GMT -------- plastic wrote: > > Chilton Gregory wrote: > >> Didn't they used to speak gaelic in that big island West England? > > > > Yes, and they still do, but not a lot. A closely related celtic language > >(britanic) is spoken by the Wales and in Brittany. There are still quite a few > >people who speak only Welsh (Cumraeg). > >Chilton. > > Correct me if I am wrong but isn't Wales actually near west England > and the big island far west England. > > Regards > David Lamprell Hi David, My ex-wife was Welsh, her mother spoke nothing but Cumraeg (Welsh), until her teens. To this day, she considers England to be a remote nation of heathens, located on unimaginable distance to the far east of Cymru. (Wales!) My children have often visited this beautiful land and speak a little of this lilting, melodic and poetic language. Robert Bastow ======== Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking Subject: Re: Any body doing any metalwork? (or, 'nother good day in the shop) From: Robert Bastow Date: Sun, 18 Oct 1998 15:54:59 GMT -------- John Stevenson wrote: > > Are you related to Robert Bastow by any chance?? Could be..Was his mother ever in Yorkshire? Or yours for that matter? Lots of bastards out there!! ;^) Robert Bastow ======== Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking Subject: Re: Radius v Dia dials From: Robert Bastow Date: Sun, 18 Oct 1998 16:05:00 GMT -------- Kurt Bjorn wrote: > > FWIW when I bought my Hardinge, it had Diameter cross-slide dials, and after > a short period to get used to it, I never went back. Occasionally, you > might need to generate a shoulder of specified height, such as .125", above > the smaller diameter surface, in which case you must double that and run the > cross-slide in .250 indicated. > > Otherwise, it is simpler to use. Let's say you start with .500" dia stock, > and want to turn it to .375". Set the dial to zero, feed in .125", and cut. > No more arithmetic. > > -- > Kurt > No disagreement Kurt, as I stated..A matter for personal preference. But for the HSM who uses his lathe as a horizontal borer, vertical and horizontal mill, dividing head, co-ordinate drill, broaching and planing machine,etc.,etc...Direct reading dials are a constant source of error and a pain in the ass. You have to double the readings in most cases. Robert Bastow ======== To: frwillia@ptw.com Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking Subject: Re: SINE BARS?? NEED HELP From: Robert Bastow Date: Sun, 18 Oct 1998 16:11:43 GMT -------- Fitch R. Williams wrote: > I set my tenths reading micrometer (most accurage > measuring instrument in my shop) to the desired dimension, make sure both the > mic anvils and the adjustable parallel are "clean" (usually by wiping them with > Laquer thinner - and relubing them later),....... An easier, and much used, traditional method of cleaning 0-1 mic. anvils, is to lightly close them on a clean sheet of paper and pull the paper out. You are then only a fraction of a turn away from checking zero. Robert Bastow ======== Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking Subject: Re: 8mm & WW collets From: Robert Bastow Date: Sun, 18 Oct 1998 16:28:56 GMT -------- Don Foreman wrote: > > > WW collets and a jeweller's lathe, eh? Mmmm! > > I am building a high speed toolpost grinder, and this will be equipped to use draw in collets. I need only 1mm to 1/4" holding range for internal grinding "points". My original plan was to use 8mm Watchmakers collets but I would also like to consider something just a little larger to give a little more "meat" in the arbors for external grinding wheels. These will each be fitted to a dedicated arbor, trued and balanced, and swapped as a unit. Can anyone point me to a source for the dimensions of 8mm and WW collets, some idea for relative availability, accuracy and costs, and a good source for high quality collets of either pursuation? I would consider buying top class, used collets. Any other suggestions would, of course, be welcome. Thanks Robert Bastow ======== Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking Subject: Re: Bridegport Lighting From: Robert Bastow Date: Sun, 18 Oct 1998 17:01:11 GMT -------- Michael P. Henry wrote: > > I've been using articulated lamps from a local hardware superstore ($10 or > so). These are sold as desk lamps and the end of the arm is inserted into a > screw clamp that is used to attach them to a table top that also allows the > arm to swivel back and forth. The 60 watt bulb does get a bit hot, though, >and I like Jon's idea of using small fluorescent bulbs. > I use the same type lamps, ($1.00 ea. from garage sales). I found a source for neat little 75W halogen spot bulbs, at a buck apiece from a local surplus store. Ideal for my purposes so I bought a bunch of them. Brighter, whiter light than incandescent bulbs and, surprisingly, far less heat in the beam and in the lamp itself. I now use them exclusively for local lighting in the shop. I got four, 8' dual tube fluorescent fixtures from "Wallymart"..Hate them!! They buzz like a cheap TV and give nowhere near the level of background light I need. Wallymart had some 100W, dual bulb, halogen fixtures, "fer cheap" and I find these ideal over my benches and lathe etc. I had to arrange extra shading/reflection, to avoid direct glare in my eyes and concentrate the light where I need it..otherwise..perfect! And no heat problems. Robert Bastow Robert Bastow ======== Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking Subject: Re:Shop Lighting From: Robert Bastow Date: Sun, 18 Oct 1998 23:06:14 GMT -------- Randy O'Brian wrote: > > Robert, > > I'm using articulated lamps(Luxo style) for task lighting now. I have one > on the mill mounted on top of the head. By cutting one of the struts and > removing a spring, it will bend down toward the table and works fairly well. Thanks for the tip > What is the bulb number on those 75W halogens? On closer examination I find in fact they are 50W not 75..but they turn out more light that a 100W incandescent and less heat. Mine are Phillips "MasterLite" 50W 120V N FLOOD 30 Made in Mexico. No idea what retail is...I bought a bunch at $1.00 each > Wallmart fixtures have cheap ballasts in them. If you get commercial >grade fixtures, you won't have noise. I took it up with the Wallymart "Experts"..Response was the usual " I dunno..They all do that"!! Commercial quality ballasts alone cost more that I paid for the entire fixtures and tubes. I must say though, recently after 18 months of use, they do seem to be a lot quieter. Robert Bastow ======== Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking Subject: Re: All read please From: Robert Bastow Date: Mon, 19 Oct 1998 03:17:06 GMT -------- Gerry Einarsson wrote: > > plastic wrote > >> > > Hmm, how exactly do you know what shit tastes like? > > I have to admit, I don't know *exactly*; although having raised a >couple of kids, and living in a "poop and scoop" neighborhood, I feel I >can claim some familiarity with the subject. > Obviously you have never played Rugby on a freshly vacated (evacuated?) cow pasture!! Robert Bastow ======== Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking Subject: Re: Anti-Jacknife..was Black grease From: Robert Bastow Date: Mon, 19 Oct 1998 03:43:40 GMT -------- Fitch R. Williams wrote: > > So all is not roses for an anti-jacknife device. > > Fitch I totally agree! On the other hand, I was south-bound, in the fast lane, on the M6 (in England), just south of Keele service area, when a TT rig passed me at high speed in the center lane. Suddenly he braked, swerved, jacknifed, missing my front end by inches, and lost his trailer. The trailer rolled right over the Renault in front of me and made hamburger out of five college kids. I know, because I stopped to render help, spent an hour shovelling "Terrys" chocolates out of the way and helping to peel the roof off the (now) 18" high Renault, meanwhile, feeling the pulse in the female drivers neck, flicker and fade away!!! Robert Bastow ======== Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking Subject: Re: Shop Lighting From: Robert Bastow Date: Mon, 19 Oct 1998 03:57:19 GMT -------- PKDickman wrote: > > In article <362A7584.A9AF1417@hotmail.com>, Robert Bastow > writes: > > > > >I took it up with the Wallymart "Experts"..Response was the usual " I > >dunno..They all do that"!! Commercial quality ballasts alone cost more that > >I > >paid for the entire fixtures and tubes. > > > > > > Perhaps this tells you something > > Paul K. Dickman No. What? Robert Bastow ======== Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking Subject: Re: Tubal-cain, Tubal Cain and tubal_cain From: Robert Bastow Date: Mon, 19 Oct 1998 04:32:27 GMT -------- Kurt Bjorn wrote: > Are you the "real" Tubal Cain? If so, hats off to you, sir, for years of > fine writing for model engineers. If not, you are confusing me and quite a > few others I'm sure! ;-) > > Kurt Bjorn Absolutely no intention to confuse..but there is a story behind it. The "real" Tubal-cain died a long,long time ago...Genesis 4:22 "and (Cain)...bare Tubal-cain, an instructor of every artificer in brass and iron." Tom Walshaw.."Tubal Cain" was, along with George H Thomas, both of "Model Engineer" renown, a role model and mentor to me. I learned much from both of them and we corresponded often over the years. George passed on several years ago and Tom followed him quite recently. They both made a huge contribution to our avocation and will be sorely missed by friends and readers alike. I chose "tubal_cain" (note the lower case), "In memorium"...As a tribute and mark of respect, not as an imitation. I guess I knew that one day, someone would ask your question and I could help carry on Tom Walshaw's memory in my explanation. Many have, and I hope many more will so do. Robert Bastow "tubal_cain" ======== Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking Subject: Re: making a die? From: Robert Bastow Date: Mon, 19 Oct 1998 04:42:46 GMT -------- Bluey527 wrote: > > Anyone have any suggestions about how to make a die.Have a shaft at work where > the threads for the shaft nut after a bearing get buggered up.Have to leave > shaft in place and was wondering if I could make a die out of drill rod just to > clean up these threads.Is this possible?Any thoughts on how to make > one?Appreciate any comments Thanks Bill Get a thread file..MSC, etc., sell them, If the thread is a standard size, buy a split die or a hex reforming nut. Robert Bastow ======== Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking Subject: Re: Coffee Can Foundry From: Robert Bastow Date: Mon, 19 Oct 1998 04:51:13 GMT -------- What best kind of small (1-2 lbs) crucible should I buy to melt grey cast iron in my fan blown propane forge/furnace? Temperature reaches 2400+ degrees. Can you suggest a good supplier and an average cost range, Thank you, Robert Bastow ======== Newsgroups: comp.robotics.misc,sci.engr,sci.engr.mech,sci.engr.manufacturing,rec.crafts.metalworking Subject: Re: Can you use Slick 50 as Cutting and Tapping Oil ? From: Robert Bastow Date: Mon, 19 Oct 1998 05:02:24 GMT -------- atex57@frontiernet.net wrote: > > > Try good old bacon grease or lard, thats what I have been using in my >machine shop for all hand tapping. Ed By no stretch of the imagination is this the best available tapping compound available. However it does taste much better than Tap Magic when it spatters in your mouth as you blow chips out of the hole. Try mixing your grease with powdered graphite for vastly improved performance....ruins the flavor though!! (Does anyone ever READ or follow the whole thread before replying anymore???) Robert Bastow ======== Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking Subject: Re: Metric Pipe Thread Question From: Robert Bastow Date: Mon, 19 Oct 1998 05:48:29 GMT -------- johnsonr@carol.net wrote: > > I am trying to remove the air injection gallery on my '86 Isuzu since it > has developed an exhaust which is very irritating. After I remove it I > want to plug the holes in the head. I can't figure out what to ask for > in terms of the thread form. It would appear that it is some kind of > 13mm or so fine metric thread. It is not easy to get to for an accurate > measurement. If I take it off, then I run the risk of a bigger leak. > > I have talked with poeple from the dealership level all the way to the > factory and naturally they are no help. "some kind of" won't hack it in the real world. You need to have a pretty good idea of what pitch/dia you are looking for. Only then will you know whether people are sidestepping the issue..Or just plain bull sh*tting you!! Take a piece of Play-Do, Silly Putty, modelling clay, Ivory Soap, Wrigley's Double-Mint Gum or what-have-you. Stick it on a suitable spatula, tongue depressor, popsical stick, pencil or....what-have-you. Take an impression of the thread form, measure the pitch with a "very-near" thread pitch gauge, ruler, barley corns...Or what-have-you!! Ditto the threaded hole core diameter, at top and bottom. If they are different, and the top is wider than the bottom..it's a taper thread!! Check the pitch you measured against a chart in "Machinerys Handbook"..your library will have a copy. Check both Imperial (SAE) and Metric (I.D.I.O.T.S.) tables and find the nearest one. Look up the Thread Depth for the corresponding pitch. Double it and add it to the top core diameter you measured. Check that dimension against the tables in "MH". Note: The O/d of a tapered pipe thread is not its "Official Size" but that thread suitable for a piece of pipe of a given, nominal pipe size. That is to say...A one inch pipe thread would be a suitable size for the OUTSIDE diameter of an iron pipe with a nominal one inch bore. You now will have enough information to return to your dealer, give 'em hell, and bullshit them long enough to come up with what you ask for...or get their undivided attention for long enough for them to prove you wrong and come up with what you NEED...Or what-have-you!!!!!!! Good luck Robert Bastow ======== Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking Subject: Re: making a die? From: Robert Bastow Date: Mon, 19 Oct 1998 06:05:31 GMT -------- ddouglas@dibbs.net wrote: > > Bill, The trouble with using a die, is that it will cut off some of your > thread making it weaker. A friend told me how he had fixed a thread on > the front spindle of an antique car. He bought a box of the correct > size nuts and screwed them on the spindle one after the other. Each nut > was destroyed at the start, but gradually, the thread was "formed" back > into shape. Of course, a die might be cheaper than a box of nuts. But > this worked in his situation. Doug The best way to "reform" rather than "recut" an old, buggered thread (or a newly cut one for that matter,) is to buy or make a "nut" of the same size and start to screw it on. Each time it starts to get tight, rap it smartly, all round its circumference, until you can turn it further..Each time it STARTS to bind, repeat the tapping process. It can take a while but you will get an almost perfect reformed thread out of it. I do this with every thread I cut, rather than trying to cut it to "dead size" Because of minor imperfections and burrs, a dead size thread will almost always, settle down to being oversize after an nominal amount of running in. Robert Bastow ======== Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking Subject: Re: What is the difference between a Form Tap, Plug Tap, Bottoming Tap, and a Taper Tap ? From: Robert Bastow Date: Mon, 19 Oct 1998 13:59:17 GMT -------- John Stevenson wrote: > How can a thread be oversize after 'reforming' it ? The "oversize" was a typo. I will not lower myself to respond to the rest of your vindictive message. Members of the group are welcome to check out the messages I have posted and let me know PUBLICLY if they have, or have not, found them generally helpful as is my intent. If not let me know whether I should continue to make contributions to this News Group. If anyone doubts my veracity, experience or qualifications, please feel free to contact me directly and I will send you a copy of my CV. Respectfully, Robert Bastow ======== Newsgroups: comp.robotics.misc,sci.engr,sci.engr.mech,sci.engr.manufacturing,rec.crafts.metalworking Subject: Re: Can you use Slick 50 as Cutting and Tapping Oil ? From: Robert Bastow Date: Mon, 19 Oct 1998 22:55:04 GMT -------- atex57@frontiernet.net wrote: > > In <362AC8FF.FE251178@hotmail.com>, Robert Bastow writes: > >atex57@frontiernet.net wrote: > >> > > > >> > >> Try good old bacon grease or lard, thats what I have been using in my >machine shop for all hand tapping. Ed > > > >By no stretch of the imagination is this the best available tapping compound > >available. > > > > Have you ever tried it???? Yes. Robert Bastow ======== Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking Subject: Re: Gun show finds From: Robert Bastow Date: Tue, 20 Oct 1998 01:12:58 GMT -------- Moore and Wright are Britains equivalent of Starrett...good tackle. They are indeed small hole gauges, the finish sounds like satin chrome. You will find that as you turn the knurled sleeve at the end, the two hardened balls are pushed out of their little holes by an internal tapered spindle. They are captive, so they won't pop right out. Use them as you would a regular split button SHG. Put the ball end inside the hole to be measured and turn the sleeve gently until you feel light contact. Withdraw and measure the gauge across the balls with a regular micrometer. Nice find! Robert Bastow David R. Birch wrote: > > I just picked up a Machinery's Handbook 17th edition(1965) for $10 and > three of what appear to be VERY small hole gauges for another $10. > Each ia marked: > > MOORE & WRIGHT > SHEFFIELD,ENGLAND > > They are then marked "CAT. No. 899BB" > 0.080-0.095 > 2.03MM-2.41MM > > 899CC is 0.095-0.110 > 899DD is 0.100-0.125 > > They are about 2" long, each with a shaft with two balls > set in holes in the shaft, with the handle end knurled, > and a smaller knurled post that turns, sticking out from > the handle. The appearance is like a telescoping gauge, > with the two balls replacing the crossbar of the T. > They look new with a brushed stainless finish, although > they respond to a magnet more like regular steel than a > 400 series stainless. > > Anyone got any info on these? They were too cute to pass up. > > David ======== Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking Subject: Re: shapers...any out there? From: Robert Bastow Date: Tue, 20 Oct 1998 04:52:15 GMT -------- CroweLance wrote: > > I could really use a small-mid size shaper. It just burns me up these aren't > made. Hey, I know what you're going to say, but look, I'm old fashioned OK? > Anyway, where can I find these old gems? Try Randy Pettus at 706 265 1902 crpettus@mindspring.com Randy has a bunch of Atlas, Southbend and other shapers, location north of Atlanta. I got an 8" Boxford from him recently that had never cut metal...It does now!! Tell him I sent you. Robert Bastow ======== Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking Subject: Re: A couple of questions From: Robert Bastow Date: Tue, 20 Oct 1998 15:06:07 GMT -------- Steve Herring wrote: > > I was in a local scrapyard last week looking for some metal to practice > turning on. I was talking with the dealer about some stuff and another > customer, this older gentleman with a grease covered overall walks up > and tells me "You'd never even get though the doors of my shop." when I > asked why, he told me my fingernails were too short and that it is > unsafe. I keep my nails to where they dont stick past the ends of the > tips of my finger so they don't get torn off juggling(my other hobby). I > originally dismissed this as a guy just being really cranky and not > liking a young hobbyest, but I am wondering is it conventional shop > practice to keep your nails longer than your fingertips? > I have been in and around machine shops since "Adam was a lad," and that is a new one on me!! On the contrary, long fingernails can be a hazard around rotating machinery..Murphy's Law, (Subsection 27: para.23. line 18.) dictates that..(I paraphrase..) "Any thing sticking out will be ripped off first" I keep my fingernails well trimmed: A) It makes it easier to clean them after an evening in the shop. (HSM by night...Stockbroker by day!) B) I find that, especially when giving something a final rub with emery cloth, close up to the collets, (which I use a lot,) the split in the collet will snip off the corner of your thumb nail..usually down to the quick. Ouch! My advice is to ignore this curmudgeonly remark. Long dirty fingernails do not a machinist make! Robert Bastow ======== Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking Subject: Re: pressure vessels From: Robert Bastow Date: Wed, 21 Oct 1998 14:17:29 GMT -------- robert anzellotti wrote: (Three times!!) > > Good time to revive my pressure pot quest. Grab the stick and pull it back...Grab the stick......8^) > Felice Luftschein & Nicholas Carter wrote: > > > Once again I'm in search of Aluminum information. A local restaurant > > has an older pressure cooker that is no longer manufactured. They used > > to be able to get replacement hold down hinged bolts, as they wear > > over time, but can't get them anymore, so they want me to make some. > > Issues of product liability, etc (as done to death on several threads > > on this n.g.) aside, what is the best (actual) type of Al and temper > > for this application? > > If constant wear is a problem, might it be time to try a suitable grade of stainless steel for the hinged bolts? Perhaps with easily replaced clamping pads of aluminum if wear of the lid becomes a concern? > > (I bet this thread will devolve into a discussion of funny pressure > > cooker explosions....) Not a pressure cooker per se..But.. When I was a kid my best pal's parents went out for the day and left him with a can of baked beans for lunch. He popped it in the oven (without opening it or perforating the lid...!) Blew the oven door clear across the kitchen...along with a full complement of rapidly hardening baked beans...! Robert Bastow ======== Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking Subject: Re: NEVER EVER AGAIN WILL I BUY SHIT PRAZI MACHINES!!!!!!!!!!!!!! From: Robert Bastow Date: Thu, 22 Oct 1998 23:25:43 GMT -------- Philmpc1 wrote: > > I own a small machine shop where most of my work is CNC milling. Once in a > while I have to turn and bought a Prazi due to space requirements. NEVER again > will I buy such shit. Damn thing costs $1,300 and is absolute CRAP. Anyone out > there with a good old piece of benchtop iron let me know. I need a lathe now. > Thanks. Phil Pretty sweeping statement!! I had been led to believe that the Prazzi was a cut above other"benchtop" lathes. As I am in the market for a small precision lathe and Prazzi is (was) on my short list, would you care to expand on your reasons? Thanks, Robert Bastow ======== Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking Subject: Re: 1938 Ford body panel restoration (shrinking sheetmetal). From: Robert Bastow Date: Fri, 23 Oct 1998 19:00:25 GMT -------- Mike Graham wrote: > I am by no means an expert, but I have had some luck with body work > shrinking primarily because I spent a couple of months of Sundays > trying to figure out plate straightening. I found a bit of info on it > in "Practical Blacksmithing", and just banged around on warped plates > until I had a reasonable success rate. Straightening plates is a precise science, an art form and requires a little black magic too! As an apprentice I enjoyed watching our "Stretching Gang" at work. These were three or four of the widest guys I have ever seen out side a zoo! Arms like utility poles. Their job was to straighten heavy plates from the presses, flame cutters or annealing furnaces etc..1" to 3" and thicker. They worked with 32lb sledge hammers on a 10' dia x 3' thick, solid steel "anvil". A warped plate would be swung in by the overhead (100ton!!) crane and dropped on the table. For a while they would sit around "eyeballing" it and drinking beer from pint bottles. [workers in the forge, press, furnace and heavy metal shops had a daily allowance, supplied by the company of up to 8 pints...except apprentices!! 8^( ] Then , one of the gang would get up, hammer in hand, and pace slowly around the plate, occasionally squatting to get an eye level viewpoint. Sometimes this process would take fifteen or twenty minutes, but eventually he would reach out and make a mark or two on the plate with a piece of chalk. Spitting on his HUGE palms he would swing his thirty-two pounder effortlessly, and hit the mark dead on. The plate would appear to shudder and visibly settle and as often as not he would walk away, without a backwards glance, signalling the laborers to take away the now flat plate and bring up the next one. Not surprisingly, all the members of the gang were stone deaf and somewhat "addled"!! Robert Bastow ======== Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking Subject: Re: NEVER EVER AGAIN WILL I BUY SHIT PRAZI MACHINES!!!!!!!!!!!!!! From: Robert Bastow Date: Fri, 23 Oct 1998 19:24:46 GMT -------- PLAlbrecht wrote: > > Find yourself a nice Logan (like another poster said) or a South Bend or > another well preserved American machine. Clausing. Monarch? > Pete I am not in the market for a Logan size lathe...I have a Maximat Super II, with which, after many modifications, additions and adjustments, I am very happy. As I stated, I am in the market for a small, PRECISION, BENCH lathe..of the Levin, Boley, Schaublin, etc type, with a full range of collets and attachments. I will probably wait until I next visit England and pick one up from Tony Griffiths. Thanks for the lowdown on the Prazzi..It is off my list, Sherline and Taig are also not what I am looking for (very nice as I am assured they both are! The only Sherline products with which I am familiar, are the anodised aluminum BP dials I adapted to the Maximat and a VERY tasty 3" four jaw chuck with a 5C arbor) Robert Bastow ======== Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking Subject: Re: Help - move safe! (800 lbs.) From: Robert Bastow Date: Fri, 23 Oct 1998 21:10:10 GMT -------- Bob Frazier wrote: > > Hi y'all ! I need to move a 800 LB safe from one suburb to another, and down > a half flight of stairs into the basement. A local mover will do it for $250, > which sounds like a profitable venture, for him. I'm looking into lift > trucks, kegs of beer, whatever it takes to move this thing. Any advice? > Thanks, Bob IMHO it sounds like a good deal!! Double check his references and LIABILITY INSURANCE!! If you are satisfied, pay the $250.00, sit back and drink the beer yourself and avoid HURTING YOURSELF AND OTHERS!!!! Robert Bastow ======== Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking Subject: Re: Shop Lighting From: Robert Bastow Date: Sat, 24 Oct 1998 14:53:44 GMT -------- Mike Graham wrote: > I'm not a fan of fluorescent lights over a lathe. I find that at > higher speeds it makes the work seem to almost 'squirm'. Very weird > on the eyes. > Fluorescent lights have a stroboscopic effect, that at certain speeds, can make a spindle or cutter appear to slow down, run in reverse, or even stop! Very dangerous in a machine shop! Robert Bastow ======== Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking Subject: Re: Metal Halide for Shop Lamps?? From: Robert Bastow Date: Sun, 25 Oct 1998 14:22:56 GMT -------- BeeCrofter wrote: > > Down at Home Despot they have made in China (of course) quartz halogen > shoplights for 20 bucks bulbs 7ft cord and all. > It consists of 2 150 watt lamps in a shorter version of the old shoplight. > Looks like the same lamps that are in porch lights and such. > Nice to have something in the shop other than flourescent. I bought a couple of those when they were on sale for $15.00 a couple of months ago. I have one over my lathe and one over my bench, plus angle poise type lamps with 50w halogen spots for detail illumination. I am delighted with the setup. I find the articulated desk lamps at garage sales for $1-$2.00 each. They are only $7.00 brand new at Wallymart. Robert Bastow ======== Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking Subject: Re: Prazi lathe From: Robert Bastow Date: Sun, 25 Oct 1998 14:40:21 GMT -------- Jon Barnard wrote: > > Mr. Bastow, > > So how much for your "piece of shit Prazi"? > > Jon Sorry Jon, that wasn't me! I only asked what the problem was because Prazi was on my short list. Robert Bastow ======== Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking Subject: Re: What type of steel should I use for collets? From: Robert Bastow Date: Sun, 25 Oct 1998 14:44:18 GMT -------- Steve T. wrote: > > I need to make some new 1/4" i.d. collets for my router, but I am not > sure of what type/grade of steel would be best to use. I assume some > type of spring steel would be the best. Can anyone give me the right > type of steel to use. Also what method would be the best to cut the > slots in the collet. > Thanks in advance, > Steve T. Unless you intend to harden and grind the collets, internally and externally, then regular mild steel or drill rod will do the job...take your pick. To slit them...use a hacksaw! ======== Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking Subject: Re: Brass Cups From: Robert Bastow Date: Sun, 25 Oct 1998 19:43:01 GMT -------- David Green wrote: > > I need to obtain several hundred cylindrical brass cups with an inside > diameter of 7/8" and an outside diameter of 1". Is that your standard > machine shop type of job, or is there a better way to go about getting > it? > DG They might better be deep drawn from sheet brass. Enquire at a local punch press shop..they may have the dies. What you will save on brass barstock may well pay for a simple draw die. Robert Bastow ======== Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking Subject: Re: Wot's with "Mils"? From: Robert Bastow Date: Tue, 27 Oct 1998 07:16:28 GMT -------- >The original bushing were half-inch > long, but I made the new one 300 mils. ............. I set it for 50 mils per inch..... > I can now move the tool point 50 mils ............ or half > a mil per 10 mils of slide travel. ...........1 mil of slide travel > > ......to get my tenth-mil ......... > > ......2 whole mils....... When did people start using "mils" when they mean, and wish us to understand, thousandths of an inch..what is wrong with the good old "thou"? Last I heard, "mils" were a measure of angle used by some countries for artillery laying. Maybe we just have a younger generation trying out their own brand of "Inspeak" Curious. Robert Bastow ======== Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking Subject: Re: HELP: Rod growls while turning. From: Robert Bastow Date: Tue, 27 Oct 1998 07:49:59 GMT -------- Sorry to disillusion you about the correct feeds and speeds to use for carbide tools. The essence of carbide tooling is that it will resist softening and erosion at the high SFM required to induce plasic flow in the chip. Bluntly put..the hotter the chip the better! The chip flows easier, demands less HP per cu.inch removed and takes more heat away with it. Surface finish is improved too. Thermal shock is induced by an interrupted flow of coolant. Coolant is used to cool the work piece, so as to maintain sizes..its function is not to cool the tool or the chip. Visit your friendly, local jobbing shop, ask for a job and tell them you never produce blue chips...The only job they will offer you is to dig out the TONS of blue "clock-spring" chips that their top machinists produce each week. Machine shops have to produce Fast, Good, AND Cheap!! Robert Bastow k.kinnison wrote: > > Not so! > Tool life is directly proportional to RPM, feed rate, depth of cut, and > grade of carbide used. Uninterupted cut or not? Coated inserts or not? > This is true for any tool, HSS or carbide. > > Can you say "thermal shock", on the way to the supply house to get more > inserts? > > Nowadays, the term "carbide" is too general to describe many applications. > Assuming that one is using a C-5 grade(brazed) or better for turning,the > "blue chip" rule will most certainly increase tool life and decrease the > likelyhood of a person contracting silicosis from repeated regrinding. > > There are always exceptions. > > Fast, Cheap or Good > Pick any two..... > > K. Kinnison > > Jens wrote in message <363b4782.20800687@news.rdc1.bc.wave.home.com>... > >"k.kinnison" wrote: > > > > > > > >> Almost molten metal instead of swarf > >> > >> > >>If your chips are blue, you are going to fast. > > > >Not if you are using carbide ! > > > >Jens > > ======== Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking Subject: Re: HELP: Rod growls while turning. From: Robert Bastow Date: Tue, 27 Oct 1998 08:08:36 GMT -------- Jhko wrote: > > >It is specially ground (but real easy to grind - much easier than a > >normal cutting tool) > > > >Jens > > > >PS.: It took me a long time to figure out (from an article) exactly > >what the heck they were talking about. Once the light went on it was > >'duuuhhh - that's simple'. Don't ask me to explain it because it will > >be even more confusing than the article. > > Hi Jens, Am I correct in assuming this is a "shear" cutting tool..a near vertical or slightly inclined, cutting edge with minimal front clearance, that is set with the center of its cutting edge on lathe C/L. We used a similar tool for finishing steel mill rolls. Chatter free,(never heard it called "growling" before)...fine finish cuts and a superb finish due in part to its burnishing effect. The action is similar to that obtained from a "Toolmaker's Reamer"...a length of drill rod of the required diameter, hardened and ground at an acute angle to the C/L..cuts fine, great finish and superb accuracy. A similar tool with increased cutting and side rake, works well on rubber and soft plastic..good tool for turning wood in an engine lathe too! Robert Bastow ======== Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking Subject: Re: Any body doing any metalwork? (or, 'nother good day in the shop) From: Robert Bastow Date: Tue, 27 Oct 1998 08:26:00 GMT -------- ldkeith@home.com wrote: > > Mark Kinsler wrote: > > > 1) What the heck is an engineer's ring? Sort of like a World Series ring, > > or a class ring, or what? I didn't know that engineers wore any kind of a > > special ring, traditional iron or any other kind. > > Ya gotta be a Canuk!(it's a Canadian Engineer thing.) Beyond > that we have to shoot you after we tell : ) I will say that I'm > a young buck and my 1981 vintage ring is stainless steel. Real > old guys may still have plain (mild?) steel editions : ) (duck) > > dave Chartered Engineers (CE) or Professional Engineers (PE) traditionally wear an iron or SS pinky ring..often with facets like a multi faced polygon. REAL Canadian Engineers wear a ring made from wrought iron, salvaged from the Montreal bridge that collapsed..objective being to remind them that even Engineers are fallible. Robert Bastow ======== Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking Subject: Re: Steel Slivers From: Robert Bastow Date: Tue, 27 Oct 1998 15:04:56 GMT -------- Heartily endorsed!!!!! Gloves, while useful when handling dirty, sharp, hot or toxic materials have NO PLACE around moving machinery. They can be DEADLY!! Robert Bastow Been there...Seen that! Loren Titsworth wrote: > > I beg to differ on this recommendation for a newbie. Too many of my cohorts > using latex gloves to keep their parts clean and "get a better grip" have > ended up with their hand wrapped into their work with some nasty cuts before > the latex gave away. One guy actually picked up a 200lb. bench knee mill > with one hand, when he tried to "get away". Now, it could be said, "Well, > they were just stupid". I agree, but still not a good thing to have anything > on or near your hands with spinning tools. > > Experienced, alot bad. > > Tom Holt wrote in message <1998102702024076639@zetnet.co.uk>... > > > >> Larry Sleznikow wrote in article > >> <36378f8b.175966@204.246.1.19>... > >> > with steel, I'm picking slivers out of my hands using a 10 pwr > >> > eye loup and needle and tweezers. What am I doing wrong? > > > > > >When I started using carbide burrs in the Dremel for fitting & > >finishing small steel parts freehand, I ended up with so many > >teeny-tiny steel needles in my hands I couldn't walk through an > >airport metal detector without setting off all the alarms in the > >place. Now I use thin rubber dentists' gloves, both with the Dremel > >and the mill. Problem solved. > > > > > > > > ======== Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking Subject: Re: Cupla MT Twistdrill Questions... From: Robert Bastow Date: Tue, 27 Oct 1998 15:39:48 GMT -------- A Morse taper socket, in good condition, will adequately grip a Morse taper shank in equally good condition. Set screws etc. should NOT be required except as an extreme backup. First thing to do is ensure your taper socket is in excellent shape. If it isn't...THEN MAKE IT SO!!!! Yeh! I know it's a bother..But accuracy doesn't happen overnight..You have to work slowly and methodically towards it. A Morse taper finish reamer is not expensive...Especially compared with the cost of a new tailstock barrel!! Get one and use it. Secondly, be absolutely scrupulous about cleanliness in the socket, and examine every taper shank before popping it in place. Shanks should be deburred etc., with a fine file or stone..A rub with emory cloth while spinning is NOT the way to do it. Larger Lathe tailstocks often have the same, built in tang driver as do drill presses. A simple "insurance job" is to drill and tap the tailstock barrel for TWO opposing setscrews that will bear on the drill TANG. Yes, it is inconvenient to have to run the TS barrel all the way out to adjust them. Lastly, be aware that, unless the drill is grossly worn and tapered, the bigges cause of "grabbing is trying to open up a hole with a larger drill. If you must drill a pilot hole first, make this only about 1/4 the finish drill size. To reduce grabbing, and improve finish, grind and stone a small radius on the drill corners. For brass and other "grabby" materials, grind the cutting lips to a zero rake angle. If you do a lot of brass work..buy a straight flute drill. Robert Bastow Brian, Evans wrote: > > snip... > > > >Of course, you will want to clean the tailstock taper, and you might > >want to check with a new dead center and some Dykem to see if there > >are any burrs or other gross problems. Otherwise just realize there > >isn't that much torque that you can transmit through this without > >external support and then you can consider something like the vise > >grips supported by the lathe ways. > > > >Grant Erwin > >Seattle, Washington > > > >strictly an amateur opinion > > The tailstock taper on my 16" Southbend has a grubscrew that can be used to lock > tools into the MT3 taper. I've never needed more that a deadblow hammer hit to > seat a drill chuck, and normally just kind of pop them in by hand. Then again, > I also sneak up on the finish size and the biggest drill I have is 3/4", so > maybe I'm not over taxing the grip of the taper. If I was going to use the > grubscrew, I might grind a flat on the tool, like the one on an endmill. > > Brian ======== To: Spehro Pefhany Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking Subject: Re: Wot's with "Mils"? From: Robert Bastow Date: Tue, 27 Oct 1998 15:47:32 GMT -------- Cross cultural?? Sounds more like a cross DRESSER to me!! 8^) Robert Bastow Cross PATCH!! Spehro Pefhany wrote: > > the renowned Robert Bastow wrote: > > > When did people start using "mils" when they mean, and wish us to understand, > > thousandths of an inch..what is wrong with the good old "thou"? > > Mils are electronic terminology, whereas thou are machinist terminology. > For example, a "300 mil DIP package" or 100 mil spacing. It is a > cross-cultural thing as a linguist such as yourself should appreciate. > > -- > =-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-= > Spehro Pefhany "The Journey is the reward" > speff@interlog.com > Fax:(905) 332-4270 (small micro system devt hw/sw + mfg) > =-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-= ======== Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking Subject: Re: Hardinge help! From: Robert Bastow Date: Wed, 28 Oct 1998 01:37:19 GMT -------- Dave Johnson,(masquerading as a) Machine Man wrote: > > we do mostly small machining and the > largest lathe we have in the place is a Hardinge Toolroom that is not > all that old. Probably 2000 hours on it but the swing of the frame I > had made was about 1/2" bigger than the Hardinge could do. > > I looked at the length of the saddle supports of the Harding and they > were about 5" long front and back so decided I could safely remove > some metal from the bed to allow the frame to rotate while I machined > the clamp portion of it where the plate would sit. > > I figured that 5" of saddle would slide over the "gap" of about 1-1/2" > wide and 3/4" deep without problem Obviously not even enough of a "machine man" to fool the real ones!! However, just in case this butcher should finally "lose it" and do as he describes to a "recent Hardinge Toolroom Lathe" he will find that his grinding..3/4" deep...did not go all the way through the bed plate, which is a hardened and ground steel plate, 7/8" thick bolted from below before finish grinding. This would make the Hardinge the easiest lathe extant, to fix after such ministrations. I have seen much better trolls!!....Remember, there is no perfect crime!! Robert Bastow ======== Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking Subject: Re: Any body doing any metalwork? (or, 'nother good day in the shop) From: Robert Bastow Date: Wed, 28 Oct 1998 01:50:44 GMT -------- > Robert and Brian, just a small nit : _graduate_ engineers wear da > ring. > You don't have to be a PE / CE, just have a B.Sc. in Engineering. > > I'm a real engineer, (B.Sc. EE, UofS, 1981) and my ring is SS. > We didn't have a choice. The ring was originally iron (wrought > very possibly) but it caused skin problems like discoloration. > So, in the fine tradition of good engineers everywhere, it > was improved. > > dave Jeez! They'll be giving them to shade tree mechanics next!! Time was when it MEANT something!! Robert Bastow ======== Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking Subject: Re: Steel Slivers From: Robert Bastow Date: Wed, 28 Oct 1998 02:18:59 GMT -------- Any kind of glove!! Touch the inside of your wrist, inadvertantly, to a rotating milling cutter, while wearing latex gloves, and you will be heading, at very least, to some serious rehab. And don't tell me you are too careful around machines to do a silly thing like that...because I won't believe you. Robert Bastow Steve Cranage wrote: > > Huh? I use surgical gloves all the time with the mill and lathe. These > things are so flimsy I have to change them after and hour or less of use, I > just can't imagine how getting the latex caught in anything could pull your > hand into the work before ripping a large flap of the glove free. I tear a > large percentage of them just putting them on. Besides, since they are skin > tight, there is no way to get caught in the first place, at least as far as > I can see. Maybe we're talking about a different type of gloves? > > Robert Bastow wrote in article > <3635E115.4FACD424@hotmail.com>... > > Heartily endorsed!!!!! > > > > Gloves, while useful when handling dirty, sharp, hot or toxic materials > have NO > > PLACE around moving machinery. They can be DEADLY!! > > > > Robert Bastow > > > > Been there...Seen that! > > > > Loren Titsworth wrote: > > > > > > I beg to differ on this recommendation for a newbie. Too many of my > cohorts > > > using latex gloves to keep their parts clean and "get a better grip" > have > > > ended up with their hand wrapped into their work with some nasty cuts > before > > > the latex gave away. One guy actually picked up a 200lb. bench knee > mill > > > with one hand, when he tried to "get away". Now, it could be said, > "Well, > > > they were just stupid". I agree, but still not a good thing to have > anything > > > on or near your hands with spinning tools. > > > > > > Experienced, alot bad. > > > > > > Tom Holt wrote in message <1998102702024076639@zetnet.co.uk>... > > > > > > > >> Larry Sleznikow wrote in article > > > >> <36378f8b.175966@204.246.1.19>... > > > >> > with steel, I'm picking slivers out of my hands using a 10 pwr > > > >> > eye loup and needle and tweezers. What am I doing wrong? > > > > > > > > > > > >When I started using carbide burrs in the Dremel for fitting & > > > >finishing small steel parts freehand, I ended up with so many > > > >teeny-tiny steel needles in my hands I couldn't walk through an > > > >airport metal detector without setting off all the alarms in the > > > >place. Now I use thin rubber dentists' gloves, both with the Dremel > > > >and the mill. Problem solved. > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > ======== Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking Subject: Re: Steel Slivers From: Robert Bastow Date: Wed, 28 Oct 1998 02:23:25 GMT -------- Tom Holt wrote: Now, it could be said, "Well, > > they were just stupid". I agree, but still not a good thing to have anything > > on or near your hands with spinning tools. > > > Experienced, alot bad. > > All due respect; but provided you're taking proper care, it shouldn't > be a problem. Put another way; the best and only way to avoid > accidents is to keep your hands well away from those spinning tools > until they stop spinning. If you're close enough for gloves to pose a > danger, you're too close anyhow. There is always one idiot who thinks he is different. Dream on. and keep buying those lottery tickets. Robert Bastow ======== Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking Subject: Re: HELP: Rod growls while turning. From: Robert Bastow Date: Wed, 28 Oct 1998 03:20:36 GMT -------- Wayne Cook wrote: > > On 27 Oct 1998 17:14:46 GMT, jhko@aol.com (Jhko) wrote: > >Hey Robert, OK maybe I'm dense, but I'm still not picturing this cutting tool > >(or the reamer). We really need a picture here. Any chance of drawing one and > >putting it in the dropbox? We don't want to deprive the group of a great tool > >bit and reamer, do we? :-) Thanks in advance for your help. > > Look out Robert it can be almost impossible to describe this thing > where it can be understood. I think I went through 6 or 8 different > versions before everybody got it last time. > Murphy and The Bastow love a challenge!! To make a "contrary ground" or "shear cutting" tool.... Preheat oven to 350deg (gas mark 5) ;^) (Sorry..Wrong NG!!) Take a "virgin" square HSS tool bit. say 1/2" square. Grind the END face to a 5 deg clearance angle mantaining the edge square to the tool bit. Grind the TOP face to a rake angle of 5 to 15 degrees. The tool now looks like a big, fat, parting tool with no side clearance or relief. It would in fact make a pretty good broad finishing tool for a planer or shaper!! Hone and polish the front and top faces as though it were an exhibit at the NAMES show. Set the tool bit in your tool post and adjust 'til it is square to the lathe axis and right on center height..Just like a parting tool!! Now take the tool bit OUT, flip it 90 degrees CCW and replace it in the tool post with an additional 1/4" packer underneath it. The C/L of the cutting edge is now on C/L of the work piece and it looks as though you are all set to PLANE a keyway in the work piece by racking the saddle back and forth. You now have a crude shear cutting tool. It can be vastly improved by grinding the (now leading face) relief at an angle such that the bottom corner leads the top corner. Use a LIGHT cut, Medium speed and a fairly fast feed rate with a high quality cutting oil (Use reaming speeds/feeds as a guide.) It works like a skew chisel does in wood turning!! Toolmakers Reamer.... Imagine you are a Samurai warrier! Armed with your trusty Katana sword. Your mortal enemy (a bamboo stem) stands before you....with a mighty, sweeping,downward angled blow you cut him from left side of neck, angling through flesh and bone to emerge just above his right hip bone. Picking up the fallen top half of your vanquished foe..the angled cut through the round stem gives you an idea!!! Go make that out of a 1/4" dia length of drill rod, harden, temper to dark straw, hone the flat..BUT DO NOT TOUCH THE SIDES. You have just invented the Toolmakers reamer!! Robert Bastow ======== Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking Subject: Re: Steel Slivers From: Robert Bastow Date: Wed, 28 Oct 1998 03:47:27 GMT -------- Tom Holt wrote: > > The message <3636801D.EDB8193D@hotmail.com> > from Robert Bastow contains these words: > > > There is always one idiot who thinks he is different. Dream on. and keep buying > > those lottery tickets. > > Type on, while you've still got at least one finger. If you're as > casual around cutters as your posts suggest, you'd better enjoy it > while you can I have been around cutters for over 40 years and still have all my fingers..because,not only do I have a very healthy respect for any machine without an "Ouch Switch", but I do not imagine that my constant vigilance can protect me from a machine that never rests..especially if I tempt Murphy. Robert Bastow ======== Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking Subject: Re: Any body doing any metalwork? (or, 'nother good day in the shop) From: Robert Bastow Date: Wed, 28 Oct 1998 16:30:21 GMT -------- I stand corrected. Robert Bastow Spehro Pefhany wrote: > > the renowned ldkeith@home.com wrote: > > > No, it's always been the same. The Iron Ring ceremony has > > always presented the rings to new graduates, not PEs or CEs. > > Would our other Canadian engineers please confirm this for > > the persistant Mr. Bastow ? It seems he is quite mislead. > > Yes, it is true. It only signifies that you have received a degree, not > that you have paid dues to the appropriate provincial organization and > thus become a "licenced" P. Eng.. These days, you also have to pass an > ethics exam and a law exam (cramming for an ethics exam?), to get the P. > Eng. > > -- > =-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-= > Spehro Pefhany "The Journey is the reward" > speff@interlog.com > Fax:(905) 332-4270 (small micro system devt hw/sw + mfg) > =-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-= ======== Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking Subject: Re: Hardinge help! From: Robert Bastow Date: Wed, 28 Oct 1998 17:11:46 GMT -------- AZOTIC wrote: > > Dear Dave > > There might be one one way to fix the problem. I remember reading in some > welding book about the repair of large > castings. since a lathe bed is nothing but > a casting this might work for you. go down to the local welding store and > buy about > 10 pound of thermite, Ref: Dave..the Machine Man!!!! This Phillistine/Troll should buy about 200 pounds of thermite, salt it well with U235 and set up his process in a small, unventilated place..he will find the fumes invigorating!! Make the funnel etc from the pages of the Starr report and stand over the reaction ready to mold the molten heap back into the form of a Hardinge Toolroom lathe. Bare hands should be protected with latex gloves. Then put it on Ebay..there is sure to be some punter as stupid as the original poster who will jump at the deal...Especially if you throw in a 1995 copy of the MSC catalogue and offer to pay the freight!! Robert Bastow ======== Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking Subject: Re: Electricity guys - HELP PLEASE!! More observations From: Robert Bastow Date: Wed, 28 Oct 1998 17:16:56 GMT -------- David Berryhill wrote: > > I have formed an organization that you may want to join. The SECM (Society > for Electrically Challenged Machinists) is a support group that helps > machinists deal with the envy that they have for those with knowledge of > electricity and electronics. I only know enough about electricity to get > myself into trouble (deep trouble)! ;-) > > Dave Berryhill > Founder and President, SECM > > > Count me in..(In Imperial Units, if you don't mind) Robert Bastow ======== Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking Subject: Re: Turning Large Pieces Of Steel Plate From: Robert Bastow Date: Wed, 28 Oct 1998 17:43:06 GMT -------- Excellent suggestion Doug! I have had success using a sheet of very coarse sandpaper, glued to the faceplate, and a similar facing on the pressure pad. For thicker plate, hold in the four jaw by somewhat less than total thickness, (using backup pads.**) Turn to diameter, flip, true up and match turn remaining diameter. ** Tip!..All my 3 and 4 jaw chucks and faceplates are tapped (on the face, between jaws,) to allow me to mount soft pads or simply, hex head bolts with locknuts. With the jaws removed the pads are skimmed to the required height to provide a backup for thin parts held in the jaws. Helps to machine plates etc, exactly parallel. You can machine them with a step of the required diameter to true up plates etc., axially. Larger 4 jaw chucks have tee slots which can be used for this purpose. FWIW Robert Bastow Doug Smith wrote: > > Gary, How about this: Mount three or four sharp points (preferably carbide) > out close to the OD of a faceplate. Make another plate slightly larger > than > the diameter of the boltcircle of the points. Put a centerdrilled hole in > this > plate. Use the tailstock to force the plate being turned against the pins > via > the centerdrilled plate. This is the principle of a "drive dog" that is > usually > used for shafts that must be turned between centers over their entire > length. > By the way, you will probably want to recess the side of the pressure plate > so the pressure is concentrated out around the points. > ======== Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking Subject: Re: Suitability of dremel tool as die grinder From: Robert Bastow Date: Wed, 28 Oct 1998 17:56:16 GMT -------- I would not be without my dremel for some fiddly jobs..esp. cutting off hardened pins etc. However, the kind of work you describe is WAY outside the Dremel's capability. I would suggest getting a flat disc grinder, 4", or better, 7" dia. and use it with a hard, recessed center disc. With a bit of practice you will be able to do surprisingly accurate work. I used mine to refinish the top of my anvil, and it is FLAT! A vist to your local pawn shops should turn up scores of them!! Look for an OLD Black and Decker Industrial Grade, in reasonable shape. I have have mine since Adam was a Lad, and I can't wear it out!! Robert Bastow Rob wrote: > > I don't have a compressor in my home shop and I have no plans to add one > soon or I would get a pneumatic die grinder. I saw a Makita electric die > grinder in a store and have been considering getting it. Something else > that struck me though, was whether or not a Dremel tool would be suitable > for this purpose. I have a couple of jobs in mind for it right now. One > is cutting out some welds that I made on members that needed to be more > nearly parallel than they are (I didn't measure first - sue me, I'm new at > this). The other job is removing some hardfacing from my anvil (I used the > wrong kind of electrode). The latter seems more a job for a heavier duty > tool, but I don't know what the Dremel can take. > > Thanks for any suggestions, > Rob > > Rob Dennett, Software Engineer > > Top Drawer Productions > Multimedia that entertains, educates and uplifts. > > 1606 Headway Cir. > Austin, TX 78751 > (512) 719 - 4001 ======== To: machman@ibm.net Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking Subject: Re: Hardinge help! DISAPPOINTED From: Robert Bastow Date: Wed, 28 Oct 1998 21:33:34 GMT -------- ======== To: machman@ibm.net Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking Subject: Re: Hardinge help! DISAPPOINTED From: Robert Bastow Date: Wed, 28 Oct 1998 22:01:50 GMT -------- Dave Johnson, Machine Man wrote: > > In a newsgroup message on Wed, 28 Oct 1998 01:37:19 GMT, from Robert > Bastow , who said: > > >>Obviously not even enough of a "machine man" to fool the real ones!! > > Dear rec.crafts.metalworkers, I am disappointed. > Dave, if we mis-read your post and you have a genuine problem, then I for one, apologise for the levity with which it was treated. Here's a couple of (genuine) suggestions: Did you grind right through the hardened bed plate? If not, it MAY be possible to remove it and reverse it end to end..Putting the sound tailstock end towards the headstock where it will support the saddle properly. I imagine that most of your work is done close to the chuck and, in any case the tailstock will bridge your "excavation" more successfully than the saddle will. With the bed plate removed you may be able to clean up the gouge, square and true enough, to precision fit a heat treated "plug" that could be soft soldered in place. Do most of the hard fitting before fixing, and leave just a coupla "tenths" for finish stoning after you re-bolt the bed plate in place. If you did cut though the bed plate entirely!!...Or want to finish it off and do a permanent repair: Remove the two pieces and grind the ends square to the axis but with a small taper towards the bottom. This should expose enough of the original bed casting seating area, to be able to hard fit a slightly dovetail section to replace the missing section. Make this a very small interference fit and the original bed plate pieces will pull it down and firmly anchor it in place. You might want to fit a blind dowel from the plug into the bed casting to ensure relocation while you grind it to fit. Again leave a tenth or so for finish stoning after fitting. Best regards, and let us know if you need further help. Robert Bastow ======== To: "Scott S. Logan" Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking Subject: Re: Hardinge help! DISAPPOINTED From: Robert Bastow Date: Wed, 28 Oct 1998 22:07:17 GMT -------- For the moment Scott...Only for the moment!! Scott S. Logan wrote: > > Wassamatta Robert? Speechless? > > -- > On Wed, 28 Oct 1998 21:33:34 GMT, Robert Bastow > wrote: > > > ======== Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking Subject: Re: metal vs. paper From: Robert Bastow Date: Thu, 29 Oct 1998 05:18:13 GMT -------- Allen Adler wrote: > > Suppose I have a saw that is normally used to cut metal. > Which will wear out the saw faster: cutting metal or cutting paper? > > The paper would be stacked and clamped in reams and the cuts would > be perpendicular both to the edge and to the stack. > > Naively, > Allan Adler > adler@hera.wku.edu Not a naive question. Probably the paper will wear out the blade faster than the metal will. Paper is very abrasive, I use a wad of folded newspaper to finish hone knifeblades and wood chisels. Similarly, I use regular wood cutting bandsaw blades at woodcutting speeds to cut aluminum. Blades last indefinitely...unlike cutting wood especially plywood and fibreboard. Robert Bastow ======== Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking Subject: Re: Hardinge help/Leadscrew tip From: Robert Bastow Date: Thu, 29 Oct 1998 20:56:42 GMT -------- I am not altogether convinced that this was a troll posting. We all do stupid things from time to time..especially when under pressure from SWMBO ('er indoors) As they say in the Navy.."It will drag you further than dynamite can blow you!!!" Whatever. I got a very polite and appreciative direct email from Dave telling me that he was going to follow my suggestion, and try to turn the Hardinge bedplate end for end!! I guess the moral is: When in doubt..do what's right! OBTW..This switching ends trick is often possible on a worn leadscrew. In most cases the majority of past and future usage is up at the headstock end and the tailstock end is virtually unworn. Flipping it end to end may take a bit of "cut and shut" but can give a whole new lease of life to a lathe. FWIW Robert Bastow ======== Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking Subject: Re: Steel Slivers From: Robert Bastow Date: Thu, 29 Oct 1998 21:24:48 GMT -------- Steve Cranage wrote: > > You are kidding, right? I wouldn't get any of my body parts within a foot > of a spinning endmill or anything else with a cutting edge, gloves have got > nothing to do with it. Why on earth would you ever get that close to > something that's razor sharp and spinning at a couple of thousand RPM???? > Amazing. I guess there are people out there that clean clogged grass out of > the lawnmower without turning it off first too... > Of course you wouldn't, nor would I, nor would any sane thinking person. I suppose though, knowing that you are a careful and experienced driver who never takes risks, you don't need to wear a seat belt...it can never happen to you. Right? My whole point is, that after a lifetime around machinery I am only too aware that Shit happens. I once witness a 65 year old machinist, who had worked on the same Horizontal Boring Mill for most of his life, KILLED by it on his last day at work. I also witnessed an experienced guy, running a large vertical roll bender, have his arm torn out at the shoulder when a shear "spike" on the edge of a 1" thick plate, snagged the mailed palm glove he was wearing! Machines have a way of "Reaching out to touch someone" As an apprentice, running a twin spindle drill press, I had the nasty experience of spinning swarf from the drill snagging a bandage on my hand and in a SPLIT SECOND it wrapped my hand and wrist around the spinning drill before I could tear loose. Nasty cuts, damaged tendons and a weakened wrist that I still feel, decades later, when the weather turns cold and damp. It is a documented fact that gloves and machinery don't mix. No machine shop owner worth his liability insurance will tolerate the wearing of gloves around moving machinery. If the trade off is dirty fingernails and a few splinters (Waa-Waa)..So be it. If you don't like that...take up needlepoint!! Robert Bastow ======== Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking Subject: Re: drilling A 286 s/s rivets need advice From: Robert Bastow Date: Fri, 30 Oct 1998 04:16:36 GMT -------- Do the rivets have heads? What is the depth of the hole? Do you have a punch press? Thank you Robert Bastow MONTMACH wrote: > > Alright you wanna be manufacturing engineers, I got a job here, I have > 7,000 pcs of A286 blind rivets the OD is .093" length is 7/8" with a .065" hole > in it. The operation is to enlarge the ID to .076" +- .001. problems, since > the wall is so thin theres problems of deformation on the OD where the gaps in > the collet are, the material being pushed out into the gaps, causing out of > roundness and out of tollerance parts. The material is annelled and I also > have drill life problems, and the drill likes to wander. I will pay the person > who comes up with a idea that works, and will run in a decent cycle time. Note > the operation is being done on a brown & sharp screw machine. > > Dave Griffith > ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ > Dave Griffith > The R.A.T.T.-works > Monterey Machine Products > 1504-A Industrial Park Street > Covina, CA 91722 U.S.A. > http://www.rattworks.night.net/ ======== Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking Subject: Re: SB Lathe Carriage Lock - thanks! From: Robert Bastow Date: Sat, 31 Oct 1998 13:12:47 GMT -------- Scott Logan wrote: > > McMaster DOES carry them, ask for/look for toolpost screws. > Speaking of which...I would like to change over all the hex socket setscrews in my (purchased and homemade) AXA tool holders to square head type. Just to eliminate the digging out of chips every time I change or sharpen a tool. MSC list square headed setscrews but these appear to be soft? and plated. What I would prefer are the unplated, case hardened traditional type of screw...and a good quality, tee handled square socket wrench to go with them. Size is 1/4-20 x 3/4" and I need 100 pcs. Any Ideas? I don't have a Mcmaster catalogue and am sick of asking for one!! Robert Bastow ======== Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking Subject: Re: SB Lathe Carriage Lock - thanks! From: Robert Bastow Date: Sun, 01 Nov 1998 17:31:46 GMT -------- Thanks Scott...this is what I need. Robert Bastow Scott S. Logan wrote: > > 91410A540 - 1/4-20 x 3/4 Sq Hd Set Screws, case hardened $7.11 pkg > pkg/100 > > Keep in mind, McMaster-Carr has their entire catalog on the web at > http://www.mcmaster.com > ======== Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking Subject: Re: SB Lathe Carriage Lock - thanks! From: Robert Bastow Date: Sun, 01 Nov 1998 17:38:33 GMT -------- Martin H. Eastburn wrote: > > Suggest you measure all of them - (holders & bits) - since the setscrews > will screw below the surface. The square head type won't. Excellent point Martin...which I did take into account. ALL my tools are 1/2" square..in the interests of standardisation. Even smaller toolbits are held in 1/2" square "sub-holders" so that I do not often have to adjust centerheight when swapping out the few "oddball" tools that don't warrant their own holder. Robert Bastow ======== Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking Subject: Re: SB Lathe Carriage Lock/Swivel Thumb Screw Devices? From: Robert Bastow Date: Sun, 01 Nov 1998 23:50:05 GMT -------- DTJ6PPC wrote: > Speaking of unusual and impossible to find bolt/screws, where can I find a > source for the swivel thumb screw type devices that I see on many drill presses > and other machines that are used in moderate tightening applications with > little access room, what are they called? > > The ones I am familiar with have a slot on the head end with a tumb tab > postioned in the slot, held in place and pivoting on a split pin. > > I would love to replace all heavily used, low torque adjusting bolts/screws on > all my various machines, to minimize the use/searching for any wrenches. > > Thanks, > > Don in Redondo They are called "little swivel thumb screw devices with a slot in the end and a thumb tab that swivels on a split pin" Major source of supply seems to be Taiwan...cost about $300 each but they throw in a POS drill press for free! Suggest you could make them real easy. Robert Bastow ======== Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking Subject: Re: Homemade waterjer cutting machine From: Robert Bastow Date: Mon, 02 Nov 1998 15:56:16 GMT -------- Mike Graham wrote: > > That reminds me of a story. I heard (didn't see, might be an urban > legend) This is not an urban legend...A good friend of mine (name and address supplied to sceptics) lost most of the use of his right hand..almost lost his right arm to blood poisoning etc, from a pinhole leak in a forklift truck hydraulic union. Best advice to our wannabe water jet experimenter is to read the recent string (on Dejanews) and not f**k with the pressures involved here. You are on the outer limits...close to the "nuclear fusion" of hydraulic pressures. I used to sell high pressure, ceramic piston, ram pumps in Europe...1400 diesel hp through a saphire 1/16" nozzle!!! There are a lot of horror stories about what high pressure fluid can do...and a lot of funny ones!! Like the diver in Copenhagen harbor who was experimenting with underwater blast cleaning of ship hulls. Only about 5000 psi involved but he rigged a magnetically anchored unit with a non"deadman" ball valve. When the anchors inevitably let go, he was last seen heading off across the harbor at a high rate of knots!! BTW a water jet does not need abrasive entrainment to cut ANY porous material that the discrete droplets in the jet can penetrate. Concrete, trees, humans..all the same..like a knife through butter. They are used for cutting up frozen beef carcases and cutting out mass made suits for men. The jet "cuts" by means of the discrete droplets penetrating the surface and "exploding" like a mini cluster bomb. OTOH, non porous materials (glass,steel etc) need abrasive to work well..although 50,000 psi will crater steel quite impressively!! Robert Bastow ======== Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking Subject: Re: Decided to get a welding gismo From: Robert Bastow Date: Tue, 03 Nov 1998 01:46:01 GMT -------- Ted Edwards wrote: > > Mike Graham wrote: > > > Whoa. Are you saying you can't cut stainless with a torch? > > That's right. You can melt a very crudy path through it but you can't > get a cut like you do on mild or even moderately high carbon steels. > Ted The way we used to do it was to inject iron powder into the cutting stream. Robert Bastow ======== Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking Subject: Re: Aluminum? From: Robert Bastow Date: Tue, 03 Nov 1998 01:55:14 GMT -------- zj wrote: > > Looking for aluminum? We offer light weight aluminum and stainless steel. > You can order online. Contact us with any > questions.http://www.thermsulate.com There they go again with this special "light weight" aluminum!! Wish I could get some "heavy weight" aluminum...might be good for boat anchors! Robert Bastow ======== Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking Subject: Re: Knurling Question From: Robert Bastow Date: Tue, 03 Nov 1998 02:09:46 GMT -------- No! Knurls are not gears, they do not "mesh" there is enough slippage for them to find their own pitch, regardless of work diameter..AND REGARDLESS OF WHAT THE THEORETITIONS MAY TELL YOU TO THE CONTRARY!!! Robert Bastow Gary B. Advise wrote: > > I'm looking into buying a knurling tool for the lathe. I've read what > I could find on them in publications such as South Bend's How To Run A > Lathe book. I want to do course diamond patterns. However, something > isn't clicking in my mind. Perhaps someone can explain it to me. > > The knurling wheel has a certain circumference as does the stock to be > knurled. Each knurling wheel has a certain number of lines per > circumference (ie 14, 21, 33, etc). > > Doesn't the stock being knurled have to be the same circumference or > be evenly divisible by the numbers of lines on the knurling wheel? > Otherwise, won't the knurling wheel crush it's own indentations if it > doesn't. Doesn't the carriage travel speed also have to be tied to the > speed of the chuck much like when cutting threads? What am I missing > here? > > Thanks for your time. ======== Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking Subject: Re: Should I buy a Myford super 7 From: Robert Bastow Date: Tue, 03 Nov 1998 02:20:50 GMT -------- Mr. Nice Guy wrote: > > I am considering buying a Myford Super 7 for my shop. I know it is > expensive but is it still a quality machine? I don't have space for a > large machine ant the Myford should fill my needs. > Superb machine for the "Home Shop Machinist" Years of development and thousands of satisfied customers can't be far wrong. Versatile...Way beyond its nominal capacity, high quality, lots of accessories, a silky "feel" and high resale value retention. More available literature on how to do and what to do on a Myford than the Kharma Sutra has on sex! Price? Relative..It's a machine for a lifetime. Robert Bastow ======== Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking Subject: Re: Bridegport Lighting From: Robert Bastow Date: Tue, 03 Nov 1998 02:40:59 GMT -------- Funny!! I replaced all the 75/100 watt incandescent bulbs in my work lights with 50 watt halogen spots and got more light and a LOT less heat!! Yer pays yer money and yer takes yer pick!! Robert Bastow Felice Luftschein & Nicholas Carter wrote: > > >Well, I tried a 28W halogen, and it nearly burned the hair off the back > >of my arm! > I was working in the shop and started feeling funny, noticed a bad > smell and some smoke...from my head! The lamp had shifted so it was > above my head, and the halogen almost balded&scalded me. > I took out all the halogens that day. ======== Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking Subject: Re: Cost of used Armstrong or Williams tool holders? From: Robert Bastow Date: Tue, 03 Nov 1998 02:50:34 GMT -------- IMHO, tho' there have been, and continue to be, gifted people who do superb work with lantern toolposts and Armstrong/Williams toolholders, they are the result of a conspiracy to reduce the number of people that stick out the shop machine courses!! I have a number of Armstrong toolholders suitable for 9" to 12" lathes in the LH, RH, parting, boring and knurling persuasions....any reasonable offer that includes postage will be considered. Robert Bastow Grant Erwin wrote: > > > Tim947 5 wrote: > > > > > > Can somebody give me an idea of a fair price for used Armstrong and > > > Williams tool holders? I'm talking about knurling, right, and left > > > hand, and straight tool holders, and cut off tool holders, and > > > threading holders, with a lot of tool left on it. Plus the square > > > hole wrenches that you use on them. These are all in good conditition. > > > Many thanks, Bob > > I consider $120 for a complete set of Armstrong holders, in the > red Armstrong box with all the wrenches, to be a fair price. If > the brand is mixed i.e. some Williams mixed in, well, a little > less but not too much if they all fit the same size lathe. > > If I ever upgrade to a modern TP I'll sell mine. I got a real > nice set that I really like. > > Armstrong might cost a lot but they sure make nice stuff. Ever > wonder why of all the toolholders made 50 years ago most of the > ones left are Armstrong? > > Grant Erwin > Seattle, Washington ======== Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking Subject: Re: MSC Catalog-What's the big Deal? From: Robert Bastow Date: Tue, 03 Nov 1998 04:11:55 GMT -------- After several requests and even more promises I picked up two copies(on separate visits) from the Atlanta Distribution center. Why two?..One for the upstairs bathroom and one for the downstairs bathroom...Too damn heavy to lug up and down stairs every time I need a sh..er..read!! Robert Bastow JR North wrote: > > I got tired of waiting for my MSC Big Book to arrive, so I went to the > website and ordered it. In the "comments" box, with characteristic > acidulity, I reminded them I was a customer and was just expecting them > to send one to me. 5 days hence, here it is, marked 'URGENT' no less. > The squeaky wheel gets the grease, as they say.... > JR ======== Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking Subject: Re: Test. Don't read From: Robert Bastow Date: Tue, 03 Nov 1998 04:13:02 GMT -------- Dammit! Me too...new marketing tool? JR North wrote: > > Oh shoot. I read it > > Berny Ramirez wrote: > > > Test message. ======== Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking Subject: Re: Gas Bottles From: Robert Bastow Date: Tue, 03 Nov 1998 04:19:42 GMT -------- > Since you guys are so full of misinformation on the gas bottle subject how > about a little test. Why is the small acetylene gas bottle designated size > "MC"? I'll bet 1 in 10 of you can't get this right without asking a > knowledgable person like your friendly welding supply dealer. I'll even bet > over 1/2 of them can't answer the question. It stands for "Motor Cycle" Robert Bastow ======== Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking Subject: Re: Welding on TV: always wrong! From: Robert Bastow Date: Tue, 03 Nov 1998 04:43:44 GMT -------- Martin H. Eastburn wrote: > > Yea socket hot, but your bare toe must touch ground when inserting > finger... Bare toe not neccessary..My thinly insulated bare ass on an aluminum step ladder was enough to make me glad I wasn't sitting astride it!! Robert Bastow ======== Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking Subject: Re: Decided to get a welding gismo From: Robert Bastow Date: Tue, 03 Nov 1998 13:20:14 GMT -------- > Again, its been awhile but I seem to remember cutting some 420 SS by > feeding a piece of oxy welding rod into the cut as I went along. > Anyone out there want to try and let me know if I remember correctly? > > Mark White This will work, as I mentioned earlier we had profile cutting rigs that cut up to 5" thick SS by feeding Iron Powder into the flame. The objective was to augment the iron deficient SS to the point where the oxidising (burning) was sufficient to sustain the cut. Cuts were not quite as clean as on carbon steel but quite acceptable. Same thing worked on Monel and ..IIRC...copper and CI. Of course this was 35+ years ago and I imagine other technologies are used now. Robert Bastow ======== Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking Subject: Re: explosion forming? From: Robert Bastow Date: Tue, 03 Nov 1998 16:41:12 GMT -------- Grant Erwin wrote: > > I was told that they were exploded together. Not explosion > forming, but rather sort of "explosion welding". > > probably the least useful of the answers you will get > > Grant Erwin > Seattle, Washington Not at all Grant, you have it dead right! One of the primary uses of "explosion welding" is to make dissimilar metal "sandwiches" An example would be the cladding of a thick billet of A36 (boiler plate) with a much more expensive and corrosion resistant layer of stainless steel. The resultant billet is then rolled to the required thicknesses. Robert Bastow ======== Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking Subject: Re: MSC Catalog-What's the big Deal? From: Robert Bastow Date: Wed, 04 Nov 1998 00:33:50 GMT -------- Jhko wrote: > > Geeze, Robert, I'm amazing you can read that MSC catalog in such a position. > Usually I have to use an engine hoist to lift the book off of the table. > Joe Osborn > After having a consulting engineer check out the loads involved I had the floors and supporting structures specially strengthened. A local firm of millwrights gave me a special deal on moving it into place. They were pretty good, taking the window out without damage. But the "Big Cat" slipped in the slings and took out the bathtub before the eight man team were able to get it back under control!! I have designed a special self levelling stand (Anyone have a handle on good used 5" dia hydraulic cylinders) and the next stage will be a self balancing page turner. I think this last item will lend itself to full CNC operation. Old catalogues fetch several hundred dollars from recyclers..but they refuse to pick them up. OTOH the Sally Army sent me a very kind note of thanks...apparently this represents several years supply of TP for a needy family. Robert Bastow ======== Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking Subject: Re: AD:SHERLINE HOLIDAY SALE SAVE 20% From: Robert Bastow Date: Wed, 04 Nov 1998 00:38:23 GMT -------- Jim Harvey wrote: > > At this point, I wouldn't sell you a 10-32 screw for $5000.00. I like > customers, not scam artists. > Good fer yer Jim! Robert Bastow ======== Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking Subject: Re: laser Ballistics From: Robert Bastow Date: Wed, 04 Nov 1998 01:02:57 GMT -------- Bruce W. Singer wrote: > > Stu, > I just returned 2 torpedo laser levels I bought from Harbor Freight > for $75 each. I like the idea of a small accurate laser level and > thot for the money that these would be as advertised. Boy was I wrong! > One was off 1" in 10 ft. (a far cry from +- 1/4 inch in 100ft > advertised) Also, the dot size was to large as if there was no attempt > to focus the beam. What you experienced here was the gravity drop effect on a large heavy beam at low velocity. Did they not supply trajectory correction tables (similar to ballistic tables for rifle ammunition)? First class lasers run a little more expensive but are worth the extra. They project a smaller,lighter beam at a much higher velocity. The effect of the inevitable drop is negligent at up to 1000 feet. Robert Bastow Laser Consultant to the Clinton Administration ======== Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking Subject: Re: Grooving 300-series stainless - carbide essential? From: Robert Bastow Date: Wed, 04 Nov 1998 02:56:34 GMT -------- Curt Brown wrote: > > Is it practical to make deep (3/8), narrow (1/8) grooves in 300 > series stainless _without_ using carbide? > > Thanks > Curt Your material is showing all the symptoms of work-hardening. There is no way to "overcome" this..but it can easily be "undercome" ;^) The secret is to take a cut deep enough to get "under the skin" of the surface hardened by the previous cut. And NEVER let the tool "dwell" even for an instant without cutting. This takes a little experimenting..and a lot of confidence/courage when parting off or cutting grooves. First, make sure your cross slide moves smothly with no trace of play in the ways. Reduce overhang and increase the rigidity of your tool/toolholder. Lock every carriage movement not in use. Be sure the headstock bearings are correctly set up. In other words totally eliminate any cause of chatter...Chatter in itself can produce work hardening in a hurry!! Now sharpen and hone your HSS parting tool..razor sharp!! grind the front quite square (any angle to the front..such as is sometimes suggested to "remove the pip" only results in imposing a side force on the tool as well as producing a chip that is wider than the groove..not a good idea) The front clearance should be around 5-7 deg and must NOT have any flat to it (Work hardens). side clearance should be a little greater than for MS say about five deg/side..again, honed and razor sharp. Top rake should be 5 to 10 deg. Its a trade of here as you want to "slice" off the metal with a minimum of pressure (to reduce the depth of WH)...but you can't afford to weaken the tool too much. Make the tool from the largest section of HSS that you can and keep the blade you grind to minimum length. Set the tool EXACTLY on C/L..if you must err..go below C/L. If you go above you are creating excess pressure that will cause WH) Set your work in the chuck or collet with a minimum of overhang, even if it means resetting for every groove. If you can, arrange tailstock support. The objective is to eliminate deflection = shallower cutting or rubbing = work hardening!! Now comes the gutsy bit. Reduce speed to about 2/3 of that normally recomended for that material/diameter, arrange a full flood of lubricant and GO FOR IT!! You have to feed in at a quite aggressive pace..to "get under" the hardened surface you are constantly creating. You must not hesitate or slow down until you reach full depth and you must instantly reverse out without "dwell" when you hit the right depth. I suggest you practice a bit on a piece of similar material and find the best automatic infeed rate for the job. Approached like this it should be a piece of cake. Robert Bastow ======== To: "'Grif' w. keith griffith" Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking Subject: Re: Cost of used Armstrong or Williams tool holders? From: Robert Bastow Date: Wed, 04 Nov 1998 03:00:55 GMT -------- I surely did Grif...I surely do...And I surely will!! Robert Bastow 'Grif' w. keith griffith wrote: > > > Robert Bastow > > If you didn't get my e-mail,,, give me a eholler and let me know your > address and if you still have any of the holders. thanks > > Grif ======== Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking Subject: Re: Test: Please Read From: Robert Bastow Date: Wed, 04 Nov 1998 03:04:56 GMT -------- It never appeared on my screen!! Robert Bastow Dave Ficken wrote: > > If anyone sees this post, I'd appreciate an email. > I've posted several replies to various topics and have never seen them > appear on the group. > > Thanks, > Dave@mermac.com ======== Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking Subject: Re: Indexable carbide inserts From: Robert Bastow Date: Wed, 04 Nov 1998 03:17:24 GMT -------- Lathenut wrote: > > Hi, all. Would someone offer their opinion on what would be the absolute worst > thing that could possibly happen to some idiot that used a C-2 insert on steel? > Or a C-5 on brass? > I would, of course, never consider something so stupid, but I know a few that > would. In fact, I would rather burn my shop down than be forced to do something > so unthinkable. > Thanks, Bill. Frankly Bill...not a whole heck of a lot! The sky wouldn't open and s*** on you. Any difference in surface finish and tool life would take months to evaluate. Remember that the speeds, feeds, grades and surface coatings are designed for industrial settings where costs are measured in thousandths of a penny and time in milliseconds. Been there, done that. Now in the serenity of my own shop I use or buy whatever comes to hand quickest and cheapest. Damned if I can tell the difference...or even want to know it anymore. Robert Bastow ======== Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking Subject: Re: laser Ballistics From: Robert Bastow Date: Wed, 04 Nov 1998 03:39:27 GMT -------- Right first time Martin! Mind you, don't write off those big, slow moving suckers..They have their uses. I have both types of laser and find the heavy, slow moving photons penetrate better..so I use my old laser when there are intervening bushes or buildings that the new, slick little suckers just bounce right off. The lasers come with a warning label and it pays to heed them!! I was flashing mine around willy-nilly the other day and I was followed home by a Tomahawk Missile! Turned out to be lost and very grateful for directions back to the White House...but it put the wind up me for a moment!! Robert Bastow Martin H. Eastburn wrote: > > Yea right Robert - must have been using those big slow deep red > photons instead of those small fast light red photons... > Martin > -- > NRA LOH, NRA Life > NRA Second Amendment Task Force Charter Founder > Martin Eastburn, Barbara Eastburn > @ home on our computer oldtree@pacbell.net ======== Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking Subject: Re: Size of Unimat 3 spindle threads? From: Robert Bastow Date: Thu, 05 Nov 1998 14:21:27 GMT -------- Other than the thread pitch, is it correct to assume that WW collets are similar in other detals to "standard" 8mm collets? (there appear to be many standards..most of which are interchangeable?) Robert Bastow Steve Rayner wrote: > > The WW standard is American! It was developed my the master tool makers, > Webster & Whitcombe of the old Waltham watch factory. The thread is a > metric diameter ( 6.875 ) X 40tpi. > ======== Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking Subject: Re: Thought for today From: Robert Bastow Date: Thu, 05 Nov 1998 14:27:34 GMT -------- Guido (Guy) Fawkes wasn't an elected representative, his intention was to BLOW UP the Houses of Parliament!! Come back Guy Fawkes..All is forgiven! Robert Bastow Amma Miller wrote: > > On Thu, 5 Nov 1998 10:51:58 GMT, Tom Holt > wrote: > > >Today we celebrate the life and legacy of Guido Fawkes (1570-1606), > >the only man in history to enter the British Parliament with the > >intention of making life better for his fellow-citizens... Please to > >remember, and light a candle, not a bonfire > > > > does'nt sound like any American politicians I have ever heard of ======== Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking Subject: Re: explosion forming? From: Robert Bastow Date: Thu, 05 Nov 1998 14:35:59 GMT -------- There is another type of explosion forming..a variation of "High Impact Extrusion" Here a billet of steel is extruded through a die at EXTREMELY high velocity by the "explosion" of a capacitor bank in the fluid above the billet. IIRC hardened high speed steel can be extruded to shape with this process. Robert Bastow ======== Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking Subject: Re: explosion forming? From: Robert Bastow Date: Thu, 05 Nov 1998 16:33:06 GMT -------- Tungsten carbide I imagine. I am by no means and expert on this subject...Just recalling an article I once read. Robert Bastow Spehro Pefhany wrote: > > the renowned Robert Bastow wrote: > > > Here a billet of steel is extruded through a die at EXTREMELY high velocity by > > the "explosion" of a capacitor bank in the fluid above the billet. > > > IIRC hardened high speed steel can be extruded to shape with this process. > > What would you use for a die material? > > -- > =-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-= > Spehro Pefhany "The Journey is the reward" > speff@interlog.com > Fax:(905) 332-4270 (small micro system devt hw/sw + mfg) > =-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-= ======== Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking Subject: Re: Lathe set-up questions From: Robert Bastow Date: Fri, 06 Nov 1998 15:58:34 GMT -------- The best, single improvement I ever made to a Myford was to mount it on a Blanchard ground 2 3/4" thick x 8" x 24" steel slab. It improves rigidity, hogging capacity and repeatable accuracy, by a tremendous amount. Scrape in the foot pad areas to eliminate warp or twist in the bed..level does't count except "for pretty" Robert Bastow Steve Rayner wrote: > > When I moved here, I mounted my Myford on a Taiwanese stand. This is the > one made for the 8 inch swing lathe. It has two mounting holes, vs the > Myfords four. I made adapter plates from 3/8 aluminum flat bar. The > adapters were drilled, and bolted in place. I then transfered the lathe > to the stand. A home made transfer punch was used to mark the centers for > the lathe mounting holes. This arrangement seems to have stiffened the > lathe, as well as removing any tendency to twist the bed. The machine is > now more accurate than ever. > > -- > > Steve. > ************************************************************************** > Visit my website at: > http://www.victoria.tc.ca/~ud233/homepage.htm > > ************* Tu ne cede malis, sed contra audentior ito. **************** > ******************************** - Virgil ******************************** > ******Yield thou not to adversity, but press on the more bravely.********** ======== Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking Subject: Re: Moving tribulations..Was..Be Nice To Minnesotans From: Robert Bastow Date: Fri, 06 Nov 1998 16:33:43 GMT -------- Neil Gilmore wrote: > So when we arrived in > Madison, the tool had slid off the end of the table, and was sitting on the > 'gearbox' on the couch, on top of a box full of misc (non fragile) > stuff. So it worked out OK, because we had 3 of us to wrestle it back onto > the table. Because my original contract, moving me from the UK to the US, gave me all of a weeks notice to "Be in Place" I had to leave the packing and shipping of all my worldly goods to the "most competent" shipper I could find at short notice. In this case it was P&O..Also the most expensive, but that didn't matter as my company picked up the tab. However, when my stuff eventually turned up in Enid, Oklahoma, after spending six weeks in a steamy warehouse in Houston I found that my Myford had been shipped, lying on its side, on a cloth pad, on top of a very expensive and almost new, Damask Sofa!! The Myford was fine, except for a few sweaty handprints on the brightwork..The sofa however, had a new and interesting pattern to it!! They wrecked just about every piece of furniture, one way or another, and then had the gall to try and welch on the insurance because I had not signed off on the insurance documents before the shipment left my home!! To add insult to injury, the loss adjuster eventually showed up and wrote his report, in ballpoint pen (Press hard..You're making three copies) on the top of my french polished, mahogany, dining room table..Thus far the ONLY undamaged piece. To this day I still have a full, readable, copy of his report impressed in the table top!! Robert Bastow ======== Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking Subject: Re: Moving tribulations..Was..Be Nice To Minnesotans From: Robert Bastow Date: Sat, 07 Nov 1998 02:57:46 GMT -------- True!...Once it lifts off the french polish!! Anyhow I am kinda used to it..If nothing else it is a conversation piece. Robert Bastow RX7drivr wrote: > > >To this day I still have a full, readable, copy of his report impressed > >in the table top! > > Hmmm. Have you tried a medium hot iron over a piece of damp cotton T-shirt? > It's more than likely to steam the dents out. > > James > Cheers, > James > > In accordance with 47 U.S.C.A. section 227, sending Unsolicited Commercial > Communications to the originator's account implies acknowledgment of the > account owner's rights to minimum damages of $500 per violation. ======== Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking Subject: Re: EMCO 11" Lathe From: Robert Bastow Date: Sat, 07 Nov 1998 15:53:26 GMT -------- I have a Maximat Super II. Excellent design and quality. VERY rigid and repeatably accurate. Useful speed range, plenty of power. 5C spindle with a 1 3/8" through hole and D1-3 spindle nose. Easy to cut inch or metric threads. Now I have carried out a few mods to suit myself..I love it!! Downside is the initial cost (now close to $8000!) and the price of spares and accessories from the new dealer (Blue Ridge) I know where there is an excellent used model for around $4200..contact me off line for details. Robert Bastow DoN. Nichols wrote: > > In article <71vkc3$7ak@hsun27.chevron.com>, John L wrote: > >I am interested in receiving comments (good or bad) on the EMCO 11" Lathe. > >I have a chance to purchase one and appreciate receiving feed-back from some > >users. > > I've got an Emco-Maier Compact-5/CNC (5" swing), which I love. It > is amazingly solid for its size. (I would like a larger size to keep it > company, but I don't think that I would get rid of this one for anything.) > > I have no idea how good the thread-cutting is on the manual > versions, but this one will do metric and inch threads at the flip of a > switch. (It also doesn't have to be a "standard" thread, but that's the CNC > working there.) > > If it is anywhere near within reason, go for it -- or turn it over > to me. An 11" should be about all that I need to complete my shop. :-) > > Good Luck, > DoN. > > -- > NOTE: spamblocking on against servers which harbor spammers. > Email: | Donald Nichols (DoN.)|Voice (703) 938-4564 > My Concertina web page: | http://www.d-and-d.com/dnichols/DoN.html > --- Black Holes are where God is dividing by zero --- ======== Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking Subject: Re: EMCO 11" Lathe From: Robert Bastow Date: Sun, 08 Nov 1998 15:00:09 GMT -------- Doug White wrote: > > I have one as well, and except that I don't get to spend as much time on > it as I would like, it's wonderful. Mine leaks a little oil around the > headstock when it's running, but I've had it for about 5 years now, and > the sight glass still reads full. > > Doug White If the sight glass is full there is too much oil in the headstock..whick may be why it is leaking. You don't say where the leak occurs..It can only be from either bearing or layshaft seals, sight glass,drain plug or top cover. Mine is as tight as a drum. Robert Bastow ======== Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking Subject: Re: How do I "square up" small lathe? From: Robert Bastow Date: Mon, 16 Nov 1998 13:27:17 GMT -------- A properly set up lathe should machine 0.0005" concave over a twelve inch diameter plate. Robert Bastow Kurt Laughlin wrote: > > Have you tried mounting an indicator on the toolpost and running along the > face of the chuck or a faceplate? ======== Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking Subject: Re: Drilling brass, was Micro 100 ... From: Robert Bastow Date: Mon, 16 Nov 1998 23:55:49 GMT -------- Jim Harvey wrote: > > Hmm ... I've never seen anyone offering indexes full of drills > >ground to zero rake for brass work. Is *everyone* expected to modify their > >own drill bits? :-) > Brass drills have zero rake ie...straight flutes. You can buy them in sets. Robert Bastow ======== Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking Subject: Re:FS/ SouthBend Faceplate 1 1/2" X 8 TPI From: Robert Bastow Date: Tue, 17 Nov 1998 16:21:52 GMT -------- FOR SALE: SouthBend Faceplate 7 3/8" o/d 6 slot Fits 1 1/2" x 8 tpi spindle. Unused..As new. $40.00 including postage. Robert Bastow ======== Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking Subject: Re: Lathes in the UK. From: Robert Bastow Date: Fri, 20 Nov 1998 20:07:18 GMT -------- John stevenson wrote: > South Bend was lisenced to > >Boxford Machine Tools, Yorks. Neither still produce lathes. Someone > >mentioned Harrison, which are fine lathes, I have an 11" one, but Harrison is > >no longer made. > > > Harrison Lathes are still made in Yorkshire. > Harrison and Colchester are all part of the 600 Group > - > Regards, > So far as I am aware, Boxford are still building lathes, tho' possibly not of South Bend heritage anymore. They do have a web site..enquiries for spare parts for my Boxford shaper have gone unanswered!! Robert Bastow ======== Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking Subject: Re: Diamond tool holder From: Robert Bastow Date: Sat, 21 Nov 1998 02:28:53 GMT -------- ddd wrote: > > When I first saw the thing I thought that I would experiment with > a similar tool holder where I could vary all three degrees of freedom. > > This way I would be able to set the rake and relief angles that I > wanted. > (clip tedious stuff!!) > I'd be interested if anyone has looked at this problem and if they > have any ideas about how to solve it. > > DOC Yeah!....grind the angles you want and quit trying to substitute technology for skill!!! Robert Bastow ======== Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking Subject: Re: Diamond tool holder From: Robert Bastow Date: Sat, 21 Nov 1998 02:30:46 GMT -------- DGoncz wrote: > > The diamond tool point used to be a forged tool that would be clamped in the > rocker tool post with cap screw. It was easy to sharpen then as now. You can > make a v groove shim for your rocker tool post. Set above center to provide > clearance, it will produce a good finish on a run of steel parts, but since > it's off center, it only works for a particular cut, say rough from 1 inch to > 7/8 then a few thou for a nice finish. You can always file a steel diameter for > a good finish. > Not in my shop you don't!!!! > Yours, > > Doug Goncz > Replikon Research, Fairfax County, VA > > In a letter from my landlord: "...the baiting treatment is odorless > and harmless because of where it's applied. > Everybody can and will be exterminated...." :) ======== Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking,rec.crafts.misc,comp.robotics.misc Subject: Re: Need positioners for lasers and mirrors. From: Robert Bastow Date: Sat, 21 Nov 1998 02:33:31 GMT -------- mulligan@advinc.com wrote: > > In article <01be1483$e65edb00$8b295381@wilkins-pc.mitre.org>, > "James Wilkins" wrote: > > > > The worst case I ever saw was a Ph.D.... > A Ph.D...is a BS that is Piled high and Deep!! ======== Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking Subject: Re: Should I drive over to Canada From: Robert Bastow Date: Sat, 21 Nov 1998 02:49:06 GMT -------- Martin H. Eastburn wrote: > > Sounds like to me - NAFTA isn't functional unless you live south. > I don't know the details of NAFTA - some of the bad ones - but good > grief trade should be much easier between Canada and the U.S. > > Martin Problem is that Canadian Manufacturing Base was built behind a wall of tariff barriers. If a US company wanted the extra ten percent of market that Canada represented then they pretty well had to manufacture in Canada. NAFTA did away with that..most US companies could retreat to their US facilities, turn up the wicks ten percent (at a time when they were running 15 -25% under capacity) and ship product north of the border via the shell companies they left there to handle marketing and distribution, Ontario and Quebec lost THOUSANDS or manufacturing jobs in the couple of years following NAFTA. I know...my company and three hundred skilled employees were among them!! Robert Bastow ======== Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking Subject: Grizzly Mill Model G5966 From: Robert Bastow Date: Sat, 21 Nov 1998 05:07:04 GMT CC: modeleng-list@swcp.com -------- I seem to be homing in on the new Grizzly model G5966 Tilting head and swivel table Milling machine as being just about the right size for my purposes. I do not have the space headroom or need for a Bridgeport or clone thereof. The Model G5966 has a dovetail column rather than the usual round column found in most Mill/Drills and has a 9 1/2 x 31 1/2" table with facility to swivel the table like a universal mill. Weight is given as 1300lb gross. and motor is a two speed 220v 1.5/.85hp unit. Price in 1998 catalogue is $1795. Without getting into the relative merits of other suppliers per se..HF Jet, Enco etc..Does anyone have any DIRECT experience of this particular machine? Can anyone think of any use for a swiveling table..other than large radius milling and ease of tramming up long workpieces? Thanks Robert Bastow ======== Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking Subject: Re: Mill functions From: Robert Bastow Date: Sat, 21 Nov 1998 05:30:46 GMT -------- SRW60021 wrote: > > I cannot fit a BP clone in my shop, so a full function mill is out of the > question. The two options I cant find together in a 70in. high machine are a > knee and power downfeed. > > Thanks > Shawn Check out the Grizzly model G1004..this is a full function Knee type mill with power table feed and downfeed. Height is given as 67" Looks like a Clausing Clone. List Price is $2650 I see no need for a knee..provided the head has sufficient "Lift" and can be held in alignment during its perambulations. Most jig boreres are of the "Bed" type construction. Power downfeed is far more useful than a hand cranked knee..especially when it comes to boring operations or deep hole drilling, Robert Bastow ======== Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking,rec.antiques,rec.crafts.metalworking Subject: Re: Is there an alternative to eBay (and on line auctions)? From: Robert Bastow Date: Sat, 21 Nov 1998 05:34:41 GMT -------- I have had good results buying and selling directly through the metalworking group (of bits and pieces relevant to this NG and in the $25 - $50.00 range) Beats eBay anytime. Robet Bastow ======== Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking Subject: Re: Clausing..was Grizzly Mill From: Robert Bastow Date: Sat, 21 Nov 1998 05:42:35 GMT -------- Thanks for the tip-off Garry..this is exactly the kind of info I was looking for. Next question..What is the going rate for a Clausing in excellent condition? What are the chances of finding one with an R8 spindle. I saw a nice one recently for $1400 but it had a B&S spindle nose..any disadvantage in this? Thanks Robert Bastow Garry wrote: > > They have stopped importing this mill. The units had many problems > when actual delivery started. What they have they were selling for > 1500 dollars with no support...... > > Shame as the idea looks sound. > > I think a claussing will meet your space requirements. Dave Sobel had > three when I got mine.. > > Garry > > On Sat, 21 Nov 1998 05:07:04 GMT, Robert Bastow > wrote: > > >I seem to be homing in on the new Grizzly model G5966 Tilting head and swivel > >table Milling machine as being just about the right size for my purposes. I do > >not have the space headroom or need for a Bridgeport or clone thereof. > > > >The Model G5966 has a dovetail column rather than the usual round column found > >in most Mill/Drills and has a 9 1/2 x 31 1/2" table with facility to swivel the > >table like a universal mill. Weight is given as 1300lb gross. and motor is a > >two speed 220v 1.5/.85hp unit. Price in 1998 catalogue is $1795. > > > >Without getting into the relative merits of other suppliers per se..HF Jet, Enco > >etc..Does anyone have any DIRECT experience of this particular machine? > > > >Can anyone think of any use for a swiveling table..other than large radius > >milling and ease of tramming up long workpieces? > > > >Thanks > > > >Robert Bastow ======== Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking Subject: Re: FIRE PROFF SAFE ? From: Robert Bastow Date: Sun, 22 Nov 1998 14:46:16 GMT -------- im no poet wrote: > Safes are made from two pieces of steel sandwiched by an insulating > material made from a mixture of powdered aluminum and potassium > chlorate. He would be a helluva feller in a political organisation!! ......Just add diesel fuel to taste!! Robert Bastow ======== Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking Subject: Re: Bright or dull ideas. From: Robert Bastow Date: Sun, 22 Nov 1998 14:49:24 GMT -------- John Hofstad-Parkhill wrote: > The base is about 30" wide, cast iron. It has a set of centers on one way, > parallel to that way it has what I can describe as the biggest micrometer > head I've ever seen, on it's own casting & way. Perpindicular to the centers > is another head with some kind of probe. The ways that hold the centers and > the probe look to have been ball-bearing ways. I'm only guessing as they > look exactly like they should, except sans any balls. > > It was $10 poorly spent. > > I'm trying, and failing, to come up with creative uses for this thing. How about the world's largest watchmakers "turns"...or a wood lathe? Robert Bastow ======== Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking Subject: Re: starting a machineshop-opinions? From: Robert Bastow Date: Sun, 22 Nov 1998 14:56:35 GMT -------- This is not "starting a business"..this is "buying your own job" and there is a huge difference!! The one will pay you money (eventually) whether you get out of bed or not. The other will only get done if YOU do it....No tickee...No laundry!! Ask yourself..Where do I want to be in five year's time? Will this get me there? Is there a better way to utilise my time and effort to get me to the same destination faster and with more certainty..less risk? Robert Bastow KE6DHE wrote: > > hello all, > I have been in the metals industry for 28 years and a machinist for about 10. > lately I have been considering buying a cnc machining center and a cnc > turning center to install in my own shop to do short run and quick turn around > prototyping as well as turning out some products of my own. I have figured the > setup costs and plan to finance the operation thru the machine dealer. I plan > to continue my current job (as I like the place and is steady) and have figured > that even if I dont get this paying for itself the first year I could cover the > expenses > with 25% of my paycheck. I currently have manual equipment but have reasoned > that I couldn't be competitive. I've already invested about 15,000 in my tool > chest plus another 10k in support equipment such as welders plasma > cutters, stock reduction tools, and whatnot. I am not green, but would > appreciate any input. thanks, Rufo ======== Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking Subject: Re: How are files made? From: Robert Bastow Date: Sun, 22 Nov 1998 15:01:24 GMT -------- dan wrote: > > Con1BLou@aol.com wrote: > > > > I am a machine shop instructor at a local community college. One of my > > students asked me a question that I had never considered before. He wanted to > > know how are files made. Any help out there on this question. Thanks Louis > > Quindlen Laney Community College > > starting with a piece of hardedable metal, you take a sharp chisle and > cut into the blank over and over again. Then you harden the cut blank. > > At least thats how it used to be done. I'm sure theres a more involved > process in use today. This is still the basic process...Only now it is done automatically on a machine rather than by a highly skilled man with a Big Hammer. Robert Bastow ======== To: darby Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking Subject: Re: Any Ideas? From: Robert Bastow Date: Sun, 22 Nov 1998 17:15:50 GMT -------- Looks like a very handy little machine...lets us know how much it fetches. Thanks, Robert Bastow darby wrote: > > I am interested in bidding on the little horizontal mill on the page > listed below and wondered if anyone had ever seen one of these. There > appears to be a lever on the right side of the knee and another near the > Z axis hand wheel on the left of the knee. Wondered what function they > might serve also wondered if that type of "add on vertical head would > have a "Z feed in it" > > Anyone venture a guess?? > > Thanks in advance Bill Darby > > http://www.pwgsc.gc.ca/cadc/text/quebec/tools-e.htm ======== Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking Subject: Re: What comes out the top of a small cupola? From: Robert Bastow Date: Sun, 22 Nov 1998 17:23:13 GMT -------- What is the smallest practical size for a coal/coke fired cupola? What would be minimum stack height? Would it be possible to arrange a pilot light..A la flare tip? Where does one locate suitable fuel? Limestone flux etc? Is the slag regularly tapped off above the iron? Robert Bastow Russ Kepler wrote: > > In article <36571997.2012669B@comhiway.com>, Corky wrote: > >I've never seen a cupola in action and I was just wondering about the > >feasability of actually running one in the back yard. There are plans > >available for really small ones (12 inches or so), but will the fire > >engines be showing up on the first heat or what? Does charcoal burn > >cleaner than coke? Love to hear from anyone actually using a small > >cupola to melt cast iron. > > Look at Stewart Marshall's at http://rockisland.com/~marshall - he > has a nice little volume on building and feeding a small cupola > furnace. It's fairly slim but packed with the information that you > need. > -- > Russ Kepler russ@kepler-eng.com > > Please Don't Feed the Engineers ======== Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking Subject: Re: WTB: Emco Maier Super-11 bed (only) From: Robert Bastow Date: Fri, 04 Dec 1998 19:04:10 GMT -------- You can have the bed off mine for $8000.00!!...Plus shipping! Robert Bastow wrench@poboxes.com wrote: > > Hi: > If anyone out there has an Emco Maier Super-11 bed, I may be interested > in it. I don't care if the headstock is trashed, there is no tooling, > or the tailstock/carriage is missing.... I only want the bed. > > Thanks. > > -----------== Posted via Deja News, The Discussion Network ==---------- > http://www.dejanews.com/ Search, Read, Discuss, or Start Your Own ======== Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking Subject: Re: ENCO: Still alive? From: Robert Bastow Date: Mon, 07 Dec 1998 15:28:33 GMT -------- Dick Brewster wrote: I believe the previous poster was referring to J&L MSC DO NOT HAVE A MINIMUM ORDER LEVEL!! Robert Bastow > Paul, I just noticed that you are a highly influential (:-) MSC > shareholder. A letter from you to MSC telling them why a student > exception to their $25 minimum would be a good idea just might > cause someone to change the rule. > > -- > Dick Brewster > > Username is: dbrewste > Domain is: @ix.netcom.com ======== Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking Subject: Re:Indian Quality From: Robert Bastow Date: Mon, 07 Dec 1998 15:59:50 GMT -------- YES! For many years the Alfred Herbert range of capstan and turret lathes were built under contract in India...By HSM as I recall. They may still be building them. The quality was SUPERB!!! Robert Bastow Curt Brown wrote: > Generally true, but -- do you know of a single example > of a quality machine tool or accessory made in India? > > - Curt > (SPAM-resistant address) ======== Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking Subject: Re: Squares From: Robert Bastow Date: Mon, 07 Dec 1998 16:17:43 GMT -------- A good 2lb ball pein hammer is an essential part of any machinist/toolmakers equipment. What separates the skilled from the unskilled is not just knowing that it needs to be hit with a hammer...But precisely WHERE!...and precisely HOW HARD!! Mike Graham's method is accepted, PROVEN practice. Robert Bastow Don't force it...Use a bigger hammer!! B&L Denard wrote: > > I shure would hate to hire that cat with the ballpein hammer he wouldn't > last as long as a snow ball in hell in my shop. > Bill D. ======== Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking Subject: Re: Micrometerss etc. FS cheap. From: Robert Bastow Date: Mon, 07 Dec 1998 16:29:37 GMT -------- Mitch Haley wrote: > > Starrett 0-1/2"x0.001" mic heads, small thimble, .236" shank, > spindle about .11". Can use these to make some nifty pocket > mics for Xmas presents, new in box, $10each. I recently bought a couple of these from Mitch...cute as buttons they are!! Thanks Mitch. I am going to use them on the 6" x 6" universal grinder I am in the process of reconditioning. Robert Bastow ======== Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking Subject: Re: Pearl Harbor Day... From: Robert Bastow Date: Mon, 07 Dec 1998 18:11:16 GMT -------- Naw!...Just another shitty day in a shitty period!! Robert Bastow James Wilkins wrote: > > ppierce wrote > > REMEMBER PEARL HARBOR (Also the Alamo)............. > > Paul in AJ AZ > > British possessions were also attacked by surprise. Do you make note of the > event? > > jw ======== Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking Subject: Re: Pearl Harbor Day... From: Robert Bastow Date: Tue, 08 Dec 1998 03:36:01 GMT -------- The British tend to commemorate the day that wars END....Rather that the day they BEGIN! Robert Bastow Steve Rayner wrote: > > Do you mean something like the battleship Royal Oak, sunk at Scapa Flow? > > Jack Erbes (jack@vom.com) wrote: > : James Wilkins wrote: > : > > : > ppierce wrote > : > > REMEMBER PEARL HARBOR (Also the Alamo)............. > : > > Paul in AJ AZ > : > > : > British possessions were also attacked by surprise. Do you make note of the > : > event? > > : I think not. For Americans, Pearl Harbor was a particularly memorable > : event out of many that occurred that day and the days that followed. > : And I think each nation honors its own history. > > : Do the British honor the victims of the events of that day also? Maybe > : they lack a good focal point, like the sunken battleship that is a tomb > : for more than 1500 sailors at the USS Arizona Memorial. > > : -- > : Jack in Sonoma, CA, USA (jack@vom.com) > > -- > > I'm a Canadian eh! Steve. > ************************************************************************** > The FAQ for rec.crafts.metalworking is at: http://w3.uwyo.edu/~metal > The metalworking drop box is at http://208.213.200.132 > ************************************************************************** > Visit my website at: > http://www.victoria.tc.ca/~ud233/homepage.htm > > ************* Tu ne cede malis, sed contra audentior ito. **************** > ******************************** - Virgil ******************************** > ******Yield thou not to adversity, but press on the more bravely.********** ======== Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking Subject: Re: WTB: Jet 13" threading dial indicator From: Robert Bastow Date: Tue, 08 Dec 1998 03:43:37 GMT -------- Kevin Pinkerton wrote: > > I am in the market for a threading dial indicator for a 13" x whatever > Jet lathe. My lathe is a 1986, but it uses the same indicator dial the > current model 13x40, 13x36 lathes use. It is the kind that pivots on > one bolt, with a 24 tooth gear in it. I have checked with Jet and can > buy it piecemeal from them, but the helical gear alone costs $167 and > I am hoping to find a used one somewhere for less. If all else fails...file a 16 tooth gear up from 1/16" or 1/8" sheet steel...it doesn't have to be a worm gear....it doesn't have to be thick and it doesn't need to be particularly accurate!! Robert Bastow > ======== Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking Subject: Re: help! MAXIMAT SUPER 11 carriage problem From: Robert Bastow Date: Fri, 11 Dec 1998 02:54:19 GMT -------- It sounds as though one or both of your gears has excessive endplay. Skew gears generate a lot of axial thrust..almost as much as the radial thrust. Dig a little deeper into the box..find out what the end thrust arrangements are and rectify any end play. It will be jamming in the direction that moves the gear along its axis. This same symptom can occur with a wormwheel that is free to move axially. Let us know....I too have a Maximat Super II Thanks Robert Bastow > My faithful lathe has developed a quirky problem in the power feed gears > inside the apron. Simply put, the power feed rod going into the apron > will turn one way but binds in the opposite direction. ======== Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking Subject: Re: Guinness Records TV Program From: Robert Bastow Date: Fri, 11 Dec 1998 15:33:32 GMT -------- I can think of worse ways to go...But not off-hand!! Yech! Robert Bastow Jens wrote: > > Spehro Pefhany wrote: > > >http://www.deathtrap.com/looking/nasty/bandsaw1.jpg > >http://www.deathtrap.com/looking/nasty/bandsaw2.jpg > >http://www.deathtrap.com/looking/nasty/bandsaw3.jpg > > > >Not pretty. Apparently a family argument and some booze led up to this. > > It slices, it dices, it even juliennes (sp?) ...... ugh ... > > Jens ======== Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking Subject: Re: Darwin award From: Robert Bastow Date: Fri, 11 Dec 1998 16:29:04 GMT -------- Pal o'mine ran the flat of his hand over a jointer. When it healed (long and nasty) he could plaster a wall with the palm of his hand!! Robert Bastow Mike Graham wrote: > > On Thu, 10 Dec 1998 17:50:34 -0800, dbrewste@ix.netcom.com (Dick > Brewster) wrote: > > >There is another way to look at the problem. A nasty noisy, > >obviously dangerous circular saw normally gets a fair amount of > >respect from its users. A smooth running bandsaw just sits there, > >nearly silently waiting to be feed human flesh. > > I read some stats regarding which woodworking machines people get > mangled on, and way near the bottom was a shaper. It's just such a > nasty, huge noisy thing, that apparently people just seem to have more > of a clue about sticking their sundry appendages near it's whirling > blades. > > Mike Graham > Caledon, Ontario Canada > > Mangler of metal. User of many grinding discs. > Cut with an axe, beat to fit, paint to match. ======== Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking Subject: Re: Darwin award From: Robert Bastow Date: Fri, 11 Dec 1998 16:33:00 GMT -------- Richard Weich wrote: The drill goes > through the board and into his private parts. OK! UNCLE! UNCLE! Enough already!! I like to sleep at nights!! (Please tell me it wasn't a 1" spade drill!) Robert Bastow ======== Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking Subject: Re: What's the best hand cleaner? From: Robert Bastow Date: Fri, 11 Dec 1998 16:44:58 GMT -------- If I am doing something particularly dirty in the shop...Like disassembling an old machine or machining cast iron...I always put on a double coat of "liquid glove". Rub it well under the fingernails and up to the elbows. Clean up with soap and hot water and a nail brush. I don't like solvent/abrasive cleaners on my delicate, machinists hands!! Robert "The Wuss" Bastow ======== Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking Subject: Re: Please explain British fractions??? From: Robert Bastow Date: Mon, 14 Dec 1998 20:24:24 GMT -------- These are (old) BRITISH wrenches..not European..They would be Metric sizes. The numbers refer to Whitworth (W) and British Standard Fine (BSF) The rule of thumb is that the Whitworth nut is one size larger than the corresponding BSF size and the size denoted corresponds to the BOLT size..not the a/f size of the nut. Eg. 1/4" W = 5/16" BSF = 0.442 (nominal) A/F This wrench will fit the nut on a 1/4"-20 Whitworth Bolt OR a 5/16"-22 tpi BSF Bolt. When Sir Joseph Whitworth calculated sizes for his standard screw thread system he was generous in the A/F dimensions to alow for the generally weaker materials then in common usage. When the later BSF system was developed, the smaller A/F sizes were standardised upon. Later still the BSF nut sizes wer standardised for bot thread series. You will only find the old, larger whitworth A/F nuts on older equipment. One, often missed, strong point about the W/BSF series is that (generally) the A/F dimension of a given nut is larger than the A/C dimension of the next size smaller. This means that if you pick up the wrong size wrench and try to use it in an out of sight location it will not "catch" on the corners of the smaller hex. This has prevented many a buggered nut, busted knuckle and deleteable expletive!!! US A/F sizes and (even more so) Metric size wrenches are a Royal pain in the A** for this reason. Robert Bastow PS if anyone has a set of W/BSF wrenches for sale...please contact me directly. tubal_cain@hotmail.com Mark To - CVLE/W96 wrote: > > Hi all, > > Would somebody please explain the fractional numbering system for > European wrenches. I just came across a really nice set of wrenches with > two sets of numbers on each end. The first fraction number is followed by > the letter W, the second fraction number is followed by the letters > BS. And both of these numbers do not correspond to fractional inches. > > Please help. > Oops, did I mention that I am also the new owner of said wrenches :) > Thanks > > mark to ======== Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking Subject: Re: Please explain British fractions??? From: Robert Bastow Date: Mon, 14 Dec 1998 20:28:40 GMT -------- Lee Marshall wrote: Ignorance can be fixed...Stupid is forever!! > > What you have run into is the Whitworth system. That is about all that I > know about it, other than if you turn the wrench upside down, the W > becomes an M, which can be said to correspond to "monkey wrench". It has > to do with the size of the bolt itself, not the size of the head. For > example, if you have a wrench marked 1/4, it would be used on a 1/4" > bolt, and I have no idea what size hex head that it would have. > > Lee ======== Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking Subject: Re: Customs inspectors From: Robert Bastow Date: Tue, 15 Dec 1998 04:10:02 GMT -------- Bob Primmer wrote: > > Ya know, a "newbie" here might have some trouble seeing how this relates > to metal.Please excuse me if I am out of line. > > ----------------------------------------------------------------------- > I am BJ1 You are excused ;^) ======== Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking Subject: Re: WTB angle plate or two From: Robert Bastow Date: Tue, 15 Dec 1998 04:31:26 GMT -------- MSC has them...good and cheap if you buy the workshop grade. Robert Bastow Grant Erwin wrote: > > I have a small shaper, a mill, and a surface plate, but no angle plates. > > I'm looking for something on the inexpensive side, to use for machining > operations (i.e. you can clamp to it). > > I'm in 98102 zip code. Please email. > > Grant Erwin > Seattle, Washington ======== Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking Subject: Re: Darwin award From: Robert Bastow Date: Tue, 15 Dec 1998 16:23:14 GMT -------- I watched an apprentice try to clear chips out of a 7/8" dia hole he had just tapped on the bar (capstan) lathe. It screwed his middle finger in to the hilt and, as he went down on his knees, and a split second before it twisted his finger off, the guy on the next machine wacked the clutch lever down to stop the spindle. Then, with a wicked look in his eye, and against the wimpered protests of the entrapped youth...he moved the lever slowly over to "reverse"...and let it go with a BANG!! The kid arched over the lathe bed, screaming...more in fright than pain...as his finger was slowly unscrewed from the hole. "Wassermatterwidya?" asked the old hand as the kid howled his protest. "yer wanna go to the Ambulance Room with a twenty foot bar on yer finger?" Sure enough, he had a perfect 7/8"-55deg.Whitworth form thread on his finger. No blood..didn't even break the skin..hellish sore for a couple of days though...and a lifetime lesson!! Robert Bastow ======== Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking Subject: Re: Darwin award From: Robert Bastow Date: Tue, 15 Dec 1998 16:30:37 GMT -------- David Berryhill wrote: > I was at a gun show talking to a vender who makes custom knives. On his > table were dozens of beautifully polished custom knives. While we were > talking, this gentleman walks up, picks up a knife and runs his thumb > lengthwise along the blade (I guess he wanted to see if it was sharp - it > was!). He stared in amazement as the line of blood on his thumb grew. At the recent Blade show in Atlanta I watched as a young guy picked up one of the many beautiful knives on display. "Careful!" said the maker. "It's got that special edge on it." "Oh yeah!" says the youth. "Whats that?" "The one that stops when it gets to the bone!!" Robert Bastow ======== Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking Subject: Re: Selling parts... From: Robert Bastow Date: Tue, 15 Dec 1998 19:17:38 GMT -------- James Harvey wrote: > > Right here. > CHEAP!!! Robert Bastow > Jim Harvey > > Elliot Landes wrote in message <36763C5D.EE638ABD@mother.com>... > >Where's the best free place to post metalworking parts and tools for > >sale? > > > >Elliot > > ======== Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking Subject: Re: Brass or Copper rings From: Robert Bastow Date: Tue, 15 Dec 1998 19:36:15 GMT -------- Tandy Leather have solid brass "D" and "O" Rings...possibly up to the size you need. How many do you need? Do they need to be brazed at the joint? Polished? Ther are quite a few people on this list who could make them for you..at the right price! Robert Bastow Alasdayr Kilgour wrote: > > Mel Owen wrote: > > > > I need brass or copper rings. 2" diameter made of 1/8th 0r 3/16th rods. Sure > > would appreciate a source. > > Mel, > > Any place near you deal in tack, like for horses? Any place that has the > makings for harness should have some brass ones. > > -- > Beannachd liebh-sa, > > Rick Schmidt > Oak and Iron Forge > aka > Duncan Alexander Malcolm MacDuibh Kilgour > Blacksmith > OOOO- #16, Man at Hand #006 > Guild of St. Wilde (Oregon Chapter) > Wizard #24 > Mad Scot- An Ah'v the claidhmor ti pruiv it! > CAPASPWMULD > > "Lead me not into temptation. I can find my own way, thankyouverymuch." > > > [~] > {(((((((((({*} > [_] > |~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~| > | | > | | http://www.peak.org/~ilona > \~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~/ > \ / > /``````````````\ > / \ > |~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~| > ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ ======== Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking Subject: Re: Darwin award From: Robert Bastow Date: Fri, 18 Dec 1998 16:15:35 GMT -------- Peter Drumm wrote: this > afternoon(Thursday) the whole crew was laid off til Feb or later. I'll > be working Friday, Monday, and Tuesday cleaning up, putting equipment > away, etc, then it's the unemployment line. Been there..done that. Just remember your motto.... > Illegimiti Non Carborundum Don't let the Bastards grind you down! Good luck Robert Bastow ======== Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking Subject: Re: Anyone built the "BIG 50" Rifle Action by Gunmetal Designs? From: Robert Bastow Date: Sun, 20 Dec 1998 01:12:10 GMT -------- To make a simple, one step,four segment "interrupted thread" is easy. However the "Welin Thread' used on artillery pieces is a whole different animal. Ther you have two, sometimes three or four different thread diameters over twelve to sixteen segments...It is a bear to make in smaller sizes. I know because I am tooling up to make one for a 1/8 scale madel of a WW1 9.2" Howitzer. A single stage thread would have little advantage over a conventional bolt head...which is in fact a form of single turn thread. Robert Bastow Gunner wrote: > > How difficult would it be to make something like the "artillary > thread" used in many field pieces? Basicly a large interupted thread > that matches a similar thread in the breach? > Gunner > > "Randy O'Brian" wrote: > > > > >Robert Bissett wrote in message <3677F66F.12D2@monmouth.com>... > >>Ole-Hjalmar Kristensen wrote: > >>> > >>> "Randy O'Brian" writes: > >>> > >>> > Yes, cutting the block mortise has been the problem unless one has a > >shaper > >>> > or something similar. The late Frank de Hass, a leader in single-shot > >>> > gunsmithing and action design used a round falling block mortise in one > >of > >>> > his designs so that it could be machined on a lathe or mill. He called > >it > >>> > the "FM Vault Lock Action". It seems it would work well with the > >50BMG. > >>> > > >>> > Randy > >>> > > >>> > >>> Yes, I've read his book about single shot action, but he cautions that > >>> it should not be used with magnum cartridges. I think the .50 should > >>> qualify as a magnum, but perhaps you could scale it up. On thing that > >>> puzzles me, is that he states that an action made with a square hole > >>> would be stronger. I would think that a round holde would put less > >>> strain on the metal, and thus be stronger. Anyone got a definitive > >>> answer on this? > >>> > >>> Ole-Hj. Kristensen > >> > >>The reason Frank de Haas cautioned against the round (cylindrical > >>really) > >> bolt for high power cartridges is that the round form would tend to > >>spread the > >>walls as a wedge would. Also most of the thrust then is back through the > >>middle of the receiver which is hollowed out for the firing mechanism. > >> > >> Bob > > > >I agree that the round block would tend to act as a wedge. Frank de Haas > >was a very conservative designer and all his writings were full of cautions > >about which cartridges were suitable for which actions. However, for the > >50BMG, one could certainly scale it up without penalty since extra weight > >would be an advantage. Also, I see no need to scale up the firing mechanism > >proportionally because the primers are just slightly bigger than normal > >ones. If one scales up to account for the bigger case head and knowing the > >max. operating pressure of the 50BMG(50,000psi?) then it doesn't seem to be > >very complicated to modify the design to allow plenty of safety margin. The > >final design may not be very pretty, but it would be easier for the HSM to > >fabricate. > > > >Randy > > > > --------------------------------------------------------- > > "A human being should be able to change a diaper, plan an > invasion, butcher a hog, conn a ship, design a building, write > a sonnet, balance accounts, build a wall, set a bone, comfort > the dying, take orders, give orders, cooperate, act alone, > solve equations, analyze a new problem, pitch manure, program > a computer, cook a tasty meal, fight efficiently, die > gallantly. Specialization is for insects." Robert Heinlein ======== Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking Subject: Re: Anyone built the "BIG 50" Rifle Action by Gunmetal Designs? From: Robert Bastow Date: Sun, 20 Dec 1998 01:44:16 GMT -------- Kurt Laughlin wrote: > > >How difficult would it be to make something like the "artillery > >thread" used in many field pieces? Basically a large interrupted thread > >that matches a similar thread in the breech? > > I think it would be quite a chore - In fact, I've always wondered how they > do it! > > Good description Kurt. There is an excellent picture of a "Welin" screw breech at: http://www.hkkk.fi/~yrjola/war/kuivassa/gun/html In full size practice the male and female threads are SCREWCUT (not Milled) on specially adapted, relieving lathes with an interrupted indexing motion. This usually takes the form of a special, heavy duty, "geneva" type motion. Contemporary accounts speak of "great crashings and bangings and sudden shuddering stops" accompanied by a tool point that moves in and out, under cam control, to cut the various thread diameters. Size for size, the Welin Breech is far lighter, stronger and cheaper to manufacture than the monsterous sliding blocks favoured by the Germans. It is also more gas tight..using the "DeBange Pad"...and easier and cheaper to load...it uses silk bags of powder rather than huge brass cartridge cases. No wonder we won the war!! Robert Bastow ======== Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking Subject: Re: h.b.m. From: Robert Bastow Date: Sun, 20 Dec 1998 01:48:52 GMT -------- > : On 15 Dec 1998 19:53:06 GMT, "B&L Denard" wrote: > > : >Has any one out there have a 12 or 14" RED HEAD for sale? > : > Bill D. > A local dealer has a Ferrari RED HEAD (Testarossa) for sale. It has 12 cylinders but they are probably metric. ;^) Robert Bastow ======== Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking Subject: Re: Anyone built the "BIG 50" Rifle Action by Gunmetal Designs? From: Robert Bastow Date: Sun, 20 Dec 1998 18:00:16 GMT -------- Sorry! that should read: http://www.hkkk.fi/~yrola/war/kuivasaa/gun/html Robert Bastow wrote: > > There is an excellent picture of a "Welin" screw breech at: > ======== Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking Subject: Re: Anyone built the "BIG 50" Rifle Action by Gunmetal Designs? From: Robert Bastow Date: Sun, 20 Dec 1998 18:06:13 GMT -------- The Ross Straight Pull was a superb action, silky smooth, fast and accurate. Problem was it challenged Murphy's First Law and COULD be wrongly assembled! When that happened the bold blew back in the firer's face! Robert Bastow Robert Bissett wrote: > > Gunner wrote: > > > > How difficult would it be to make something like the "artillary > > thread" used in many field pieces? Basicly a large interupted thread > > that matches a similar thread in the breach? > > Gunner > > One of the models of the Canadian Ross straight-pull service rifle of > World War I used a thread-type bolt locking arrangement. > Maybe you could find a military museum or a collector and see what it > looks like. Maybe someone on this ng knows which book has it. I've > seen pictures of it but I can't remember which book. > > Bob ======== Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking Subject: Re: Anyone built the "BIG 50" Rifle Action by Gunmetal Designs? From: Robert Bastow Date: Sun, 20 Dec 1998 18:19:25 GMT -------- Gunner wrote: > > The reason I was asking, was to determin what type of breaching method > would be most cost effective for a home user whom decided to build a > single shot 50BMG. Cost effective for a HSM is a very subjective term. Without special equipment..the conventional rotating bolt would be easiest and amply strong without need for extremely tight tolerances. The square sliding block is very strong and more compact..but much more difficult to properly design and manufacture. The cocking and firing and extraction mechanisms become complex and fragile. The Martini (hinged falling block)is a very strong and compact action that might be worth consideration. The cocking etc. are simple and robust. The weakness there, is in lack of primary extraction. All in all..I would opt for the bolt action..I wouldn't want to get into the stress calculations and proving of an action using that monsterous BMG round. Especially as a factor with a falling block is not just strength, but fatigue stressing. Robert Bastow ======== Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking Subject: Re: Cleaning Cast Iron surface plate (was Re: Surface Plate) From: Robert Bastow Date: Sun, 20 Dec 1998 18:36:19 GMT -------- DoN. Nichols wrote: > > Well, we've been discussing the pros and cons of waxing granite surface > plates, with what looks like a concensus for *not*. > > However, I've got a different question. I have a cast iron surface > plate (at least it feels like cast iron, with cavities and ribs in the > bottom.) I've had it for quite a while, and during a time of storage, some > rust started to form on the surface. (Interesting growth pattern, somewhat > like crystal growth.) > > Anyway, I used some Marvel Mystery Oil to help me remove the part > which was standing clear, and then slathered it with waylube to keep it from > forming more of that between uses. But -- there is still a stain pattern in > it, and I'm wondering whether: > > 1) it affects accuracy significantly? NO! > 2) there is a way to clean the rest off, without removing the metal > under it? NO! > 3) What is the *best* way to prevent rusting without building up layers > which have to be cleaned off with solvents prior to use? In a constant temperature, sealed in with dessicants. > > It is an 18"x18" one, and at the moment, it is residing under its > wooden cover, Worst place for it..even without moisture, the wood may contain substances that will stain or rust the plate. Robert Bastow ======== Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking Subject: Re: Anyone built the "BIG 50" Rifle Action by Gunmetal Designs? From: Robert Bastow Date: Mon, 21 Dec 1998 15:28:03 GMT -------- I will try one more time (now I am sober) ;^) http://www.hkkk.fi/~yrjola/war/kuivasaa/gun/html Robert Bastow wrote: > > Sorry! that should read: > > http://www.hkkk.fi/~yrola/war/kuivasaa/gun/html > > Robert Bastow wrote: > > > > > There is an excellent picture of a "Welin" screw breech at: > > ======== Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking Subject: Re: FS Odds and Ends From: Robert Bastow Date: Tue, 22 Dec 1998 15:08:37 GMT -------- RATS!!! He has a 3/4" die head and dies for sale at 50 Bucks...I JUST paid $401 for mine on eBay!!!!! Good site..Have Bookmarked. Robert Bastow gordon abrahamson wrote: > > If anyone is interested in some odds & ends tooling see > http://www.angelfire.com/ok2/gordotool > Bookmark this site it is changing weekly. > Thanks Gordo ======== Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking Subject: Re: How to remove chuck - WAS [Which drill press for $400.] From: Robert Bastow Date: Tue, 22 Dec 1998 20:39:25 GMT -------- On many Jacobs chucks you can drill through the (soft) body...axially from the jaw side though into the JT side and tap this with a fine thread. Use a machine bolt to jack the chuck off its taper. Robert Bastow Bill Machrone wrote: > > You need a Jacobs wedge--a tapered, two-pronged fork that fits between > the top of the chuck body and the arbor. Larger chucks need two of > them--one from each side. With the single wedge, you just tap it with a > plastic hammer, and the chuck falls into your hand. With the pair of > wedges, you use a clamp to squeeze the two together; same result. > > Maybe you don't need to remove it at all. Does the chuck have a brand > name and model number? A machine dealer (or someone here) can probably > tell you what size key you need. Measure the diameter of the hole and > the distance from the center of the hole to the deepest part of the gear > ring, the valley between two of the teeth. Double this, and you'll have > the diameter of the gear. Chances are, with these two pieces of > information, you can get a key that fits. There aren't that many > different ones out there. > > - Bill > > Christo Slee wrote: > > > > Thanks for all the advice on the drill press. After using it again on the > > weekend, I have decided that I am going to recondition that one I have. I > > can get a replacement motor for about $100 and the chuck is OK, but I need a > > key. > > > > Now how do I remove the chuck so that I can take it to the shop and find the > > right key and failing that a new chuck. > > > > -- > > Christo Slee > > 4x4 (at) interpex(dot)com ======== Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking Subject: Re: low flush=no flush From: Robert Bastow Date: Tue, 22 Dec 1998 20:46:01 GMT -------- Lee Marshall wrote: > It works like a charm!!!! I have a POWER FLUSH that you would not > believe. Truely amazing at what only 1-1/2 gallons of water will do when > you add a bit of gravity. > > Happy flushing to all of you over the holidays. > > Lee Hey Bubba...You wanna take a look at this one before I flush it?? Robert Bastow ======== Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking Subject: Re: CORRECT circumstances to use WD-40 ? From: Robert Bastow Date: Thu, 24 Dec 1998 14:47:00 GMT -------- Glenn Ashmore wrote: > > Has anyone but me noticed that WD40 relieves arthritis pain in the fingers? Yes...it is a well known remedy. Said to be good for haemorrhoids too...But I never had the courage to try it!! Robert Bastow ======== Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking Subject: Re: Machinery's handbook From: Robert Bastow Date: Thu, 24 Dec 1998 14:59:43 GMT -------- On the other hand, as new material is added...the "Good Old Stuff" is dropped. Older versions have lots of information on hand and machine processes that are now obsolescent in industry. I have a 21st edition but I am looking for a much older edition to supplement it. Similarly, I have a 14th Edition of "Encyclopaedia Britannica"; it is the same size as a "modern" edition..but, without all the space age stuff, it covers the "basics" in much more detail. I wouldn't swap it for a new one. Robert Bastow Spehro Pefhany wrote: people tend to keep the older books, however > if you buy an older one you will miss newer information on newer materials > and processes. ======== Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking Subject: Re: Machinery's handbook From: Robert Bastow Date: Thu, 24 Dec 1998 22:44:44 GMT -------- Try the "Can-Do Book Store" On King st IIRC (If it is still open) Robert Bastow > > alain labbe wrote in message ... > > >Hi, I have been looking for a machinery's handbook for a while in used book > > >stores. I'm in Canada in the Toronto area and could not find it anywhere ======== Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking Subject: Re: Anyone built the "BIG 50" Rifle Action by Gunmetal Designs? From: Robert Bastow Date: Sun, 27 Dec 1998 05:25:12 GMT -------- Not all of them...The Lee Enfield SMLE Mk III* was way ahead of the pack when it came to digesting mud etc., and for speed of action due to its short throw. Robert Bastow Rick Cook wrote: One of the > advantages of a bolt action is that it's _rugged_ > > --RC ======== Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking Subject: Re: Little light of mine--loose ends From: Robert Bastow Date: Mon, 28 Dec 1998 17:54:41 GMT -------- Obviously you have reached that dangerous age for a man...When one fancies both mother and daughter...and probably couldn't handle either!! Robert Bastow Nigel Eaton wrote: A *very* decorative young blonde lady got on the > train and I sat admiring subtly (no dribbling) from a safe distance > (as I am wont to do). Then she said in a clearly audible voice to > her friend 'Yeah, my mum does that and she's 36'. Oh dear....... > ======== Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking Subject: Re: Changing Lathe Spindle Oil ? From: Robert Bastow Date: Mon, 28 Dec 1998 18:55:24 GMT -------- I popped a small but powerful magnet into the "sump area" of my Maximat Super II. It rests in an area where it can do no harm, is imprisoned by its own magnetism and is retrievable by a wire "leash". Every month or so I pull it out and clean off the metal crud attached to it. The last couple of times this was a miniscule amount. The (emco supplied) oil in the headstock now remains "gin clear" Robert Bastow Fitch R. Williams wrote: > > This isn't fair! I don't even have the original post yet and there > are two replies. I know, I know, the usenet .... yada yada ... and > David isn't all "that" far away from here, but it still isn't fair! > > Anyway, my import gear head has a drain plug under the removable cover > where the gears are changed for metric threading, etc. I've never > replaced the oil in it - so hopefully the manufacturers oil was the > right choice. > > Fitch > > "David Berryhill" wrote: > > >ohmwork@technologist.com wrote in message > ><3686fbb4.20106893@news.3web.net>... > >>After reading a post about the use of non-detergent oils being better > >>for non-filtered applications (less grit held in suspension..) i > >>wanted to change the oil behind those sight glasses on a Taiwanese > >>lathe. > >> > >>My problem lies in finding a drain hole/screw anywhere below the > >>bearings. Short of a tiny vacuum line, or turning the lathe upside > >>down, i can't think of a way to drain the oil...do i wait until the > >>seals get worse ? > >> > >>thanks for any insights you may have, > >> > >> > >>mike II > >> > >> > >Mike - you didn't say what make or model your lathe is. I have a Chinese > >gear-head 13 x 40 lathe. On mine, you remove the fiberglass gear/pulley > >cover on the left side of the headstock and there is an allen head drain > >screw on the side of the headstock. > > > >Dave Berryhill > > > > In So. Cal. > > The FAQ (Frequently Asked Questions) for rec.crafts.metalworking > is at http://w3.uwyo.edu/~metal. > > The companion web page for rec.crafts.metalworking is the > Metal Web News at http://www.mindspring.com/~wgray1/ > > The "Drop Box" for metalworking related pictures and binary files > is at http://www.metalworking.com ======== Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking Subject: Re: What Santa brought me From: Robert Bastow Date: Mon, 28 Dec 1998 19:20:48 GMT -------- Bill Browne wrote: > > > So what did Santa bring you folks? > My wife let it be known among her folks that I wanted tools or "tool money" from Santa. Result? Two regular sized Leathermans, Two Gerbers and a "Micra" Some people got no Imagination!! Robert Bastow ======== Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking Subject: Re: Darex Drill Dr. - does it work for you? From: Robert Bastow Date: Tue, 29 Dec 1998 16:49:46 GMT -------- Doesn't anyone know how to sharpen a drill by hand anymore? In the Large Engineering works, (1800 employees) where I "served my time", off-hand drill grinding was the norm. Only drills over 1" dia went back to the tooroom for machine grinding..and only then iat the end of a run or if badly chipped. I suggest a little practice...it is a knack that is easily mastered. Robert Bastow ======== Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking Subject: Re: Tool and Cutter Grinding From: Robert Bastow Date: Tue, 29 Dec 1998 16:52:55 GMT -------- > What ever happened to the good old days like when I went to school where a > machinist or even a drill press operator had to be able to sharpen his own > drills by hand? I've never used a drill sharpener or worked in a shop that had > one. > Engineman1 I agree...27 years in the trade and I wouldn't have a clue how to set up a drill grinder! Never used one...Never needed one! Robert Bastow ======== Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking Subject: Re: What alloy was (is) used for metal type? (as in printer's type) From: Robert Bastow Date: Tue, 29 Dec 1998 17:08:41 GMT -------- Type Metal is a lead/tin/antimony mix. Robert Bastow ======== Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking Subject: Re: ISO B'port M head From: Robert Bastow Date: Tue, 29 Dec 1998 17:13:33 GMT -------- There is one on ebay right now. Robert Bastow ======== Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking Subject: Re: Parting from the rear on a lathe From: Robert Bastow Date: Tue, 29 Dec 1998 17:24:35 GMT -------- Fundamentally it is a question of geometry. Sketch it out and you will see that with a rear mounted tool any deflection in tool, slides, bearings or workpiece tends to lift the tool OUT of the cut. The front mounted tool tends to dive INTO the cut. Robert Bastow Paul-Ernest Lévesque wrote: > > Could someone tell me what are The virtues of parting-off from the rear of > the cross-slide , on a lathe > Paul ======== Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking Subject: Re: Tool and Cutter Grinding From: Robert Bastow Date: Tue, 29 Dec 1998 22:09:59 GMT -------- Sorry to disappoint you AJ..But my hand sharpened drills do NOT cut 0.015" oversize..Nor do they drill off location by 0.010". Nor do I guess do those on this list who have taken the time to learn their craft properly. Don't know what your experience is but it obviously ain't up to much!! AJ wrote: > > No one would need a drill sharpener to drill holes .015 to .025 oversize or > off location .010 to .020 ======== Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking Subject: Re: Parting on a lathe From: Robert Bastow Date: Tue, 29 Dec 1998 22:33:00 GMT -------- It works better for ALL machines..new or old...regardless of condition and adjustment. Obviously the improvement is more marked on a well adjusted machine. If you are using a broad formtool on the best lathe in the world you will still get better performance with it rear mounted. Prof Chaddock (of Quorn fame) made his double ended ball handles with one plunge cut from a full width form tool mounted upside down in a Myford. In my old shop we machined locomotive driving wheel tires to full profile with a form tool held upside down and the lathe in reverse. However..the fundamental reason WHY it works lies in the geometry..the upside down or rear mounted tool tends to deflect or pivot OUT of the cut. The front mounted one deflects INTO the cut. Sketch it out and see. In operation it is very like a swan-necked tool on a shaper or planer..indeed parting tool holders with a swan-necked configuration are (or were) available from Armstrong and Williams. Robert Bastow > Is this practice only for older lathes where one is attempting to reverse the > torque pressures to the opposite dovetail surfaces or does this produce > superior results in new and old lathes alike? > > Just wondering, > > Don in Redondo ======== Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking Subject: Re: how to put a handle on a file From: Robert Bastow Date: Thu, 31 Dec 1998 17:22:26 GMT -------- I use plastic wall plugs in the end of worn handles. Robert Bastow Tom Stovall wrote: > Just stick a wooden toothpick into the hole in the handle before you > drive the rasp/file on. The older the handle, the more toothpicks it > takes. ======== Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking Subject: Re: For Sale: Large lot of tooling From: Robert Bastow Date: Thu, 31 Dec 1998 17:42:03 GMT -------- Sad, sad, story! Just goes to prove...IT will drag you further than dynamite can blow you!! Robert Bastow Bob Edwards wrote: > > Found this over on r.c.blacksmithing and thought it would be of some > interest to the group. (I just don't care > > about this stuff anymore. Nothing's worth losing my sweetheart over. > > Nothing. ======== Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking Subject: Re: Query For The Brits From: Robert Bastow Date: Thu, 31 Dec 1998 17:51:41 GMT -------- Ethyl alcohol adulterated with a foul tasting Methyl..something or other..that dyes the alcohol purple and is impossible to remove. Doesn't stop some people drinking it tho'! Robert Bastow Doug White wrote: > > A friend of mine was wondering what the US equivalent of 'methylated > spirits' might be. My best guess was Methyl Alcohol. > > Thanks! > > Doug White ======== Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking Subject: Re: Narex Boring & Facing Head Experience? From: Robert Bastow Date: Thu, 31 Dec 1998 17:56:41 GMT -------- Excellent, state of the art piece of tackle...What do you need to know? Robert Bastow ncdogwood wrote: > > Anyone have any experience with a Narex boring and facing head? > > Thanks, > Mill ======== Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking Subject: Re: REALLY Dumb Question..... From: Robert Bastow Date: Thu, 31 Dec 1998 23:20:31 GMT -------- With the right boring tool you can get WAY below that size. I have a set of micro boring bars that can go down to 0.050" diameter. Shanck sizes are 3/8" so I use a sleeve in my 2" Criterion "clone" Robert Bastow Bill Machrone wrote: > You can't bore truly small holes with a boring head; that's not what > they're for--use a drill. ======== Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking Subject: Re: Sherline lathe help From: Robert Bastow Date: Fri, 01 Jan 1999 17:14:01 GMT -------- Hi Stoney, Happy New Year..and welcome to the best little group of miscreants, misfits, malcontents and recidevists this side of the solar system!! From your description and particularly the extreme length (32-36" BC) I would say you are heading for a whole heap of heart ache trying to do these on a lath OF ANY DESCRIPTION!! Without VERY elaborate support/back up/steadying the whip and deflection will drive you nuts. If these are straight dowels, it sounds like an arrow making job? Arrows are not turned on lathes but in dedicated dowel making machines..most of which work like a pencil sharpener..where the raw stock is rotated and pushed through a guide with a fixed blade or a spinning abrasive wheel. I make my own arrow shafts on a "centerless grinding" device I rigged up for my Burr-King 2" x 72" knife grinding machine. This regularly holds tolerances of less than 0.0005" on the diameter of maple and ash shafts. Perhaps if you tell the group a little (LOT!) more about what you are trying to achieve..in terms of dimensions, form, finish, tolerances and quantities we may be able to come up with a solution...if not..it will be a FIRST!! Robert Bastow Stoney wrote: > > I need to turn wooden dowels (rods) to (by woodworking standards) fairly > tight tolerances. Conventional wood lathes do not offer the > repeatability or basic automation (motorized lead screw) that this > process requires and the project does not warrant investing in evan a > used conventional engine lathe. I believe the Sherline lathe would be > more than adequate for my purposes if it were not for the between > centers limitation (allowing for tooling I need about 32"-36" between > centers). > > Sherline has said they will sell me the raw bed and lead screw stock and > then I am on my own if I want to have a longer bed. Fair enough. I > have gotten quotes ranging from about $150.00 to over $1700.00 to > grind/mill the bed to specs from local shops. It seems to be a straight > forward proposition for any shop having the equipment to handle a piece > approximately 48" long but when I show up with a sample piece of bed > stock or furnish them drawings of what I require I get so much back > pedaling I begin to doubt whether they could even sharpen a pencil. I > live in a fairly large metropolitan area (600,000) and shouldn't have to > go outside the area to get what I need but it is beginning to look that > way. > > Since I am a cabinetmaker, not a machinist, I am probably am missing > something here but I can't figure out what. Any suggestions or comments > would be greatly appreciated. BTW I am a 'newbie' here but have been > lurking for a short time in hopes of seeing something like this > discussed and searching Dejanews wasn't very helpfull. > > Regards, > Stoney ======== Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking Subject: Re: REALLY Dumb Question.....Question #2 (diam) From: Robert Bastow Date: Fri, 01 Jan 1999 17:34:05 GMT -------- Fitch, I couldn't have put it better myself!! Another way to get that "Last Half Gnats Whisker" is to give the boring bar a TEENSIE rub (on the top face..NOT the cutting dia.) with a very fine stone or diamond lap. Take another pass through and the (sharper) bit WILL take a fresh, but tiny bite out of the hole. A really high quality, (and Expensive) head..like a Darex..will allow you to dial in AND GET a 0.0001" increment on diameter. But they are beyond the pockets of most of us. Robert Bastow Fitch R. Williams wrote: > > "Martin H. Eastburn" wrote: > > >How does one set the diameter that the boring bar will cut out. > > I'm strictly a self taught user of this device and will be interested > in how the others do it. > > Meanwhile, back at the ranch, what I've been doing on the mill: > > 0. Locate the work piece under the spindle so that the centerline of > the hole will be where required with the required accuracy. How this > is done depends on whether the rough hole is to be cut on the mill or > was cut someplace else. If someplace else, I usually set up > positioning "stuff" in the form of stops, or pins, or whatever works > to locate the "mark" that shows where the hole is to be. I've been > known to use my edge finder on two blocks or stops and then dial to > the center of where the hole is to be so that when the piece is > placed, its quite accurately located - but this isn't always feasible. > > 1. Arrive at a rough hole size - usually by drilling but I've been > known to use a hole saw and once used a torch and grinder (to get rid > of the heat affected zone before boring to size - as close as I can > but being absolutely "certain" to be undersize by .040" or so at the > start of the boring operation. > > 2. I position the boring head so that the end of the boring bar is in > the hole, and then adjust it so it just makes contact with the hole. > > 3. Make passes adjusting the cut until the hole cleans up, then use > the telescoping gage and the mike that measured the part that has to > fit inside to get a measurement on the starting diameter. After that, > since the boring head is calibrated (sort of) its a matter of setting, > cutting, tracking your progress, getting a feel for exactly how much > is taken off by a setting of .0xx", etc. so you arrive at the final > size. > > I am sort of "retentive" about keeping notes on my progress boring > holes or machining diameters - I always have the calculator right > there and fill out my litle table during the course of which I always > make a prediction of what the size should be after the next cut, and > then measure the error after the cut. If you havn't done this, try it > - very instructive about the effect of doc, feed and rpm on the > performance of your lathe - and an objective indication of its > rigidity compared to another lathe - like between my SB and my 12 x 36 > import. The import is so much more rigid it isn't even a contest. > But I'm digressing here. > > A trick(s) I learned from a machinest friend. I was boring the > vertical hole for the feed nut in the "T" slotted cross slide casting > from MLA, and was about .0005" undersize. Ok, I know that seems > rediculous, but it "was" undersize cause the brass (?) part to be > inserted didn't would not go in there, but it "almost" did if you know > what I mean - since this was my very first hole boring experience with > my genuine $129.95 including shipping Criterion look alike boring head > with carbide tipped bars - and there was this casting I had invested > hours machining into perfection with dovetails and all sitting there > on the verge of ruin - so I was nervous. To top it off this was for > my Dad to use on his (now my) 9" SB, and I wanted it to be "perfect" > (OK, OK,OK, already - I confess - I want "almost" everything to be > perfect, but thats my excuse this time). > > Time to take a break! > > I knew from my experience and tracking tables that if I loosened the > clamp screw and adjusted I was going to be oversize and the casting > would be history and itwasgonnabejustawful - the tolerances on the > drawing are quite tight for this dimension and the other cross slide i > had for dimensional checks - a SB original normal cross slide because > Dad had the taper turning attachment on the lathe back in Michigan at > the time - was "right exactly on" the dimension. > > So I called him up and asked what to do - He asked what rpm I was > using and the hole size - 80 rpm, I forget the size. Then he made two > suggestions, one was to make another pass at about twice the rpm and > then measure it again. The second was to chuck up a brake cylinder > hone (the hole was in the right size range for this) and run it slow > for a very few seconds. > > The pass at higher rpm did make the hole about .0004 bigger, and a few > (maybe 5) seconds of honing with the brake cylinder hone finished the > hole exactly the right size close as I can measure. And then the part > "fit" in there "just right" - it stll does - I have that cross slide > ready to use on the lathe in the garage now. > > All in all, it isn't so different from what one does boring on the > lathe with the boring bar mounted on the cross slide - which was the > model for my approach on the mill with the boring head. > > Fitch"interested in better ways for achieving perfection"Williams > In So. Cal. > > The FAQ (Frequently Asked Questions) for rec.crafts.metalworking > is at http://w3.uwyo.edu/~metal. > > The companion web page for rec.crafts.metalworking is the > Metal Web News at http://www.mindspring.com/~wgray1/ > > The "Drop Box" for metalworking related pictures and binary files > is at http://www.metalworking.com ======== Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking Subject: Re: Calling Tony Griffith From: Robert Bastow Date: Fri, 01 Jan 1999 18:14:27 GMT -------- Sorry to have to use the NG this way. Tony, if you are "listening"...I can't seem to get through to your web page. I am using www.lathes.co.uk. Email me off line direct. Thanks, Robert Bastow ======== Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking Subject: Re: Lathe Dork's New In Box FS From: Robert Bastow Date: Sat, 02 Jan 1999 04:57:14 GMT -------- Kinda like a lathenut but more intense!! ;^) Lathenut wrote: > > What the heck is a lathe dork? Bill. ======== Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking Subject: Re: Precision Indexing From: Robert Bastow Date: Sun, 03 Jan 1999 01:41:49 GMT -------- One of the beauties of a worm and wheel indexing or dividing system is that it inherently produces results more accurate than itself. Any error on the index plate is divided by the gear ration of the head. This can be used to generate very accurate index plates. For example..I just finished building a dividing head based on a 5C spin indexer and a 40:1 worm and wheel from Boston gear. To produce the division plates I first made a "slave" plate to fit the dividing head. This was divided by whatever means available...Direct from the indexer's 36 hole plate available odd gears, or by careful manipulation of dividers and scriber. With the "slave" plate mounted on the crank end of the dividing head and the soon-to-be-master plate blank on the spindle end, I was able to generate rings of holes with 1/40th of the error of my slave plate. Henceforward, each time I use the master plate to produce a job, any error will again be reduced by a factor of 40:1 Let us suppose I was a massive 0.040" out in the position of one of my hand divided holes on the slave plate. This would produce a hole on my shiny new master plate that is 0.001" out of position..Which is closer than I can consistantly drill anyway. But this error will be reduced to 0.000025" on any job I make on that head!! Professor Chaddock, (Quorn) once remarked that one could produce accurate index plates with a school protractor and a large sheet of paper!! Robert Bastow wfhabicher@hotmail.com wrote: > > I'm interested in knowing how the great machine tool builderss achieved the > accuracy in their dividing heads (indexing heads) > > It seems to me that just setting up a commercial hobbing machine is not good > enough because all the gears in the various gear trains would have to be of > similar or greater accuracy. > > I seem to recall tha B & S advertised their index heads with a positional > accuracy of .001" at a 10" radius. > > Quite an achievement 40 or so years ago! > > I would appreciate hearing from people who made a career out of achieving > these results. > > Thank you very much for your efforts. > > Wolfgang F. Habicher, Cambridge, Ontario, Canada > > -----------== Posted via Deja News, The Discussion Network ==---------- > http://www.dejanews.com/ Search, Read, Discuss, or Start Your Own wfhabicher@hotmail.com wrote: > > I'm interested in knowing how the great machine tool builderss achieved the > accuracy in their dividing heads (indexing heads) > > It seems to me that just setting up a commercial hobbing machine is not good > enough because all the gears in the various gear trains would have to be of > similar or greater accuracy. > > I seem to recall tha B & S advertised their index heads with a positional > accuracy of .001" at a 10" radius. > > Quite an achievement 40 or so years ago! > > I would appreciate hearing from people who made a career out of achieving > these results. > > Thank you very much for your efforts. > > Wolfgang F. Habicher, Cambridge, Ontario, Canada > > -----------== Posted via Deja News, The Discussion Network ==---------- > http://www.dejanews.com/ Search, Read, Discuss, or Start Your Own ======== Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking Subject: Re: Introduction From: Robert Bastow Date: Sun, 03 Jan 1999 01:46:55 GMT -------- Terry Sumner wrote: > > Hello all, > Just like to intoduce myself. I find now though that I've forgotten > a lot of stuff now that Ihave the little lathe set up and running. > > I guess that's enough of that! Hope you all will take pity on me when > I come up with stupid questions. Hi Terry, Welcome to the group. We have a rule here...There are NO stupid questions! Unfortunately we can't always say the same about the ANSWERS!! Robert Bastow > ======== Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking Subject: Re: How do you age iron castings? From: Robert Bastow Date: Mon, 04 Jan 1999 05:31:25 GMT -------- It is not the rain (or lack of it) that counts. It is the continuous cycling of temperature (day/night, summer/winter) that gradually releases stress in the castings. Nowadays most castings are stress relived with heat treatment and/or vibration. Works well but not as well as a couple of years outdoors. Robert Bastow Michael Schetterer wrote: > > That's about it, if you follow what General up in Canada does -- last I > heard their table saw and jointer castings literally sit in the rain for a > year or two. I wonder if the rain is a prerequisite, or can you age > castings in AZ, too? > > PLAlbrecht wrote in message > <19990103204825.21435.00007515@ng-fa1.aol.com>... > >What's involved in aging iron castings? Do you just let them sit out in the > >yard for a couple of years, or what? > > > >Pete Michael Schetterer wrote: > > That's about it, if you follow what General up in Canada does -- last I > heard their table saw and jointer castings literally sit in the rain for a > year or two. I wonder if the rain is a prerequisite, or can you age > castings in AZ, too? > > PLAlbrecht wrote in message > <19990103204825.21435.00007515@ng-fa1.aol.com>... > >What's involved in aging iron castings? Do you just let them sit out in the > >yard for a couple of years, or what? > > > >Pete ======== Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking Subject: Re: Making metal look old......? From: Robert Bastow Date: Mon, 04 Jan 1999 05:33:15 GMT -------- Bury it in the dung heap!! (old antique fakers trick) Robert Bastow Don Foreman wrote: > > > Enigmaridl wrote: > > > > > > Does anyone know of a chemical solvent that can make metals such as > brass, > > > bronze, steel or aluminium look old and worn? Maybe even add a little > rust to > > > it? > > Road salt, AKA calcium chloride. Scrounge a little from the highway > department. Prestone "Driveway Heat" is also calcium chloride, available > at Wal-Mart (at least in Minnesota). > > We suspect that Detroit and Japan ship it to the highway department free.... ======== Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking Subject: Re: I'm a great Ironworker From: Robert Bastow Date: Mon, 04 Jan 1999 05:35:43 GMT -------- Ok Big Boy..You're on! What are you holding? Vito A. Longo wrote: > > I can blow you all out of the water ======== Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking Subject: Re: Sherline headstock bearings oozing grease From: Robert Bastow Date: Mon, 04 Jan 1999 23:59:52 GMT -------- SCHMUCK!! Edward H. Currie wrote: > > On reflection, you are obviously right ... can't expect the non-technical to > understand something as complex as a leaking spindle. And it does explain > why they are reducing the dealer discount. > > Thanks for pointing that out. Don't know how I missed it ... > > Regards > > Felice Luftschein & Nicholas Carter wrote in message > <3690f97f.300989@news.casco.net>... > >On 3 Jan 1999 18:01:08 GMT, "Edward H. Currie" > > wrote: > >>Interesting ... a distributor unable to tell a user whether or not stuff > >>should be oozing out of the headstock ... > >I think this is a little unfair - Jim is a dealer, but he isn't a > >technical support person who knows exactly how each component of the > >machine is supposed to behave over time. When my customers have > >problems with Taig components (not often) I have them send them to the > >factory, not me, as I'm not the one who will test the component & > >support the warranty. > > ======== Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking Subject: Re: annealing cast steel From: Robert Bastow Date: Tue, 05 Jan 1999 00:02:28 GMT -------- Are you sure this is cast STEEL and not cast IRON ( as most ferrous trigger guards are) If so ..Not a lot you can do!! Robert Bastow doug white wrote: > > I need to anneal a cast steel triggerguard for a muzzloader I'm building > so I can bend it to shape. How do I do it, have already broken one. ======== Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking Subject: Re: Precision worm gear hobbing From: Robert Bastow Date: Tue, 05 Jan 1999 17:01:26 GMT -------- > I am just interested in knowing how the tool companies achieved those remarkable > indexing accuracies. Just like the rest of us....VERY carefully!! By which I mean that "Accuracy" doesn't just "happen"..It is the result of careful, methodical, attention to extreme detail. An "ANALists" delight! Lindsay has a reprint of "Modern Toolmaking" (of which I have an original) I recommend this as a primer on how to achieve extreme accuracy in dividing etc., working from basics. Here's how it was done in the "Old Days" Let us suppose you want a division plate with a prime number of divisions..Say 31. First make 31 "toolmakers buttons"...Say, 1/2" dia x 1/2" long, each with an axial hole of 1/4" dia. The buttons must be hardened, ground and lapped to as close to the same diameters as Human Endevour can make them. The ends must be lapped dead square with the axis and parallel to each other. Next, calculate the EXACT diameter of circle that will be contained by the 31 buttons when they are placed in a circle, in radial contact with each other, and in contact with the "master circle". Let us call this diameter "X" On a VERY accurate lathe, face up a circular blank of "X" + 1" diameter Turn a 1/4" spigot to PRECISELY "X" dimension and at the same setup, bore the center hole, accurately, to fit your dividing head, gear cutter, or whatever. Now, arrange the "buttons" around the master circle, drill and tap for 8-32 screws and fasten the buttons in place, arranged so that they are ALL touching the master diameter AND each other. You now have a VERY accurate Master Division Plate for 31 divisions...Repeat as required!! Robert Bastow Robert Bastow ======== Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking Subject: Re: annealing cast steel From: Robert Bastow Date: Tue, 05 Jan 1999 17:07:58 GMT -------- In the Custom Knife Making world, W1 is referred to as "O.F.S."...Old File Steel!! Similarly, 5160 is known as "O.C.S."...Old Chevvy Spring!! Robert Bastow Steve Rayner wrote: > Yes! Never throw out an old file. My late father used to make very good > hunting knives, and scrapers from them. ======== Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking Subject: Re: haedening? From: Robert Bastow Date: Tue, 05 Jan 1999 17:10:25 GMT -------- Mark Kinsler wrote: > I guess they must make alloy-steel taps and dies either very carefully or > by grinding the threads. How on earth do they make small high-speed steel > threading dies, anyway? You'd need something like a teeny tiny internal > thread grinder... > > M Kinsler YUP!! That's why they ain't cheap!! Robert Bastow ======== Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking Subject: Re: Drilling hardened steel From: Robert Bastow Date: Tue, 05 Jan 1999 17:27:45 GMT -------- If you just want a hole and don't mind the LOCAL annealing that WILL take place...Then use a carbide drill. Otherwise Abrasive Waterjet or submerged EDM. Robert Bastow Rev Chuck wrote: > > Looking for a quick and dirty method for drilling holes up to 1/4" > diameter through wood plane irons without annealing. Hardness will > range anywhere from Rc 58-65. ======== Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking Subject: Re: Precision worm gear hobbing From: Robert Bastow Date: Wed, 06 Jan 1999 03:54:12 GMT -------- > Robert, thank you for your input. > My question remains: How did the top notch machine tool builders do it??? > > Wolfgang. My answer remains Wolfgang...This (and similar methods) is PRECISELY how top notch machine tool makers did it and still do..if they have to generate accurate divisions from scratch. Obviously they don't need to do it often..having already filled their tool cribs with all the "Masters" they can conceive of. Robert Bastow ======== Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking Subject: Re: Here it is, so what is it? From: Robert Bastow Date: Wed, 06 Jan 1999 04:00:58 GMT -------- "It" is a dental technicians "Articulater"...used for making dental plates and precisely setting the "bite" This is a VERY precise example of the breed...most are much simpler (and less accurate) Robert Bastow ======== Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking Subject: Re: Drilling hardened steel From: Robert Bastow Date: Wed, 06 Jan 1999 04:08:52 GMT -------- James Harvey wrote: What, pray tell, is a "COLE" Drill. The only ones I am familiar with drill long holes into the seam for the placement of blasting charges ;^) Robert (Son of a Coal Miner and a Coal Miner's Daughter) Bastow > COLE DRILL > > Jim " I own one" Harvey > >Rev Chuck wrote: > >> > >> Looking for a quick and dirty method for drilling holes up to 1/4" > >> diameter through wood plane irons without annealing. Hardness will > >> range anywhere from Rc 58-65. ======== Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking Subject: Re: Aging cast iron = Old wife's tale? From: Robert Bastow Date: Wed, 06 Jan 1999 04:20:40 GMT -------- You are dead right Kurt....this is gonna cost ya!! First of all..I didn't mentioned "Room Temperature" aging. The reason castings were aged out in the foundry yard was to subject them to temperature cycling. There are modern methods of heat treatment and/or vibration that substitute technology and cost for time. Back then, time was not an important factor. Robert Bastow Kurt Laughlin wrote: > > This is gonna cost me, but I gotta do it. . . > As I thought, "aging castings" is an Old Mechanic's Tale, just like > "crystallizing firing pins" by dry firing. > > KL ======== Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking Subject: Re: Large Dia. Ball Bearings ( 9/16 x 7-3/16 " ID 8-1/2" OD ) For sale From: Robert Bastow Date: Wed, 06 Jan 1999 04:23:44 GMT -------- Make a helluva lazy susan for your TV ;^) Robert Bastow Goerge Von Torne wrote: > These bearings were made for Hamilton Standard Propeller Co. div. of > United Aircraft Corp. Part # 522122 ======== Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking Subject: Re: Drilling Brass From: Robert Bastow Date: Wed, 06 Jan 1999 04:35:57 GMT -------- Paul-Ernest Lévesque wrote: > > Is there a trick for drilling brass, I find that the drill tend to grab in > the metal sudenly, do I have to change angle of the drill like we do for > lexan plastic. Yes, Brass drills best with zero rake (Straight flute) drills You can modify your standard twist drill by grinding the rake angle (the bit inside the flute) and making about 1/16" of it zero rake (parallel to the drill axis) That will stop all that nasty grabbing. If you have a lot of holes to drill..you can buy straight flute brass drills. Robert Bastow ======== Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking Subject: Re: Hideous college food; was Parenting teenage girls/raising boys as if they girls. From: Robert Bastow Date: Wed, 06 Jan 1999 04:39:37 GMT -------- Fitch R. Williams wrote: >......the cheese from some of the packages - unwrapped of > course - So THAT'S where I've been going wrong!! Robert "Cheesy" Bastow ======== Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking Subject: Re: Aging cast iron = Old wife's tale? From: Robert Bastow Date: Wed, 06 Jan 1999 05:31:54 GMT -------- Sorry Kurt..but I think we have a case here of ten year's "book learnin" not being worth five minutes of experience!! Respectfully, Robert Bastow Kurt Laughlin wrote: > > >The reason castings were aged out in the foundry yard was to subject them > to > >temperature cycling. > > Well, unless the foundry yard got hot enough to heat the castings to up > 600F, it wouldn't do poo for stress relieving. The time-temperature curves > don't show any real change from room temperature until about 500F. > > >There are modern methods of heat treatment and/or vibration that substitute > >technology and cost for time. Back then, time was not an important factor. > > Or utility, apparently. Like the article said, for the most part, > stress-relieving cast iron, even at 1000F, doesn't do you much good. There > is some benefit for very complex designs with low stiffness, and for class > 40-60 irons. As the article also states, cylinder heads don't seem to be in > these categories (at least in 1961). > > I don't doubt this is what was done. I just think it was more of a pacifier > than a metallurgical method. > > KL ======== Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking Subject: Re: Precision worm gear hobbing From: Robert Bastow Date: Wed, 06 Jan 1999 06:18:56 GMT -------- Fitch R. Williams wrote: > > Robert Bastow wrote: > Robert, > > You have the dividing part done to a "T". He has a reasonably good > one too - not as good as the buttons but not bad either. > > I think he is looking for hobbing or cutting techniques that will > preserve the accuracy of the circle of tool makers buttons (or his > ball bearings) during the machining process. He's gashing the gear a > bit first, but then with the worm cutter letting it rotate which it > apparently doing non-uniformly. He thinks his major source of error > is in the machining process - the fact that the cutter rotates the > worm gear being cut less than accurately, or cuts each tooth slightly > unsymmetrically. > > The only way I could see to improve the machining was to force the > gear being cut to rotate by driving it with a gear. Several people > suggested the same thing. > > Are there some tricks in the machining that are being missed here? > > Fitch I think not Fitch. In "Professional Practice" the wheel blank would be positively driven by a very precise gear train...that could probably trace its ancestry back to a "Master Plate" of one kind or another. Wolfgang's method of having the hob drive the gashed blank does work quite well in practice..I have done it myself. However he mentions that once he reaches full depth any further running degrades the accuracy because the "Hob" starts to cut on one side or the other, and unevenly at that. I think that "Aye and there's the rub"!!..Actually the lack of it!! ;^) Firstly this form of cutting SHOULD NOT be attempted with a conventional hob!! That is, one with relief formed or ground on the teeth. This will only work with a non form relieved tool which CANNOT cut on its flanks. A tap or a screwcut worm, with simple gashed teeth, works best. Secondly, it is advised that, to even out prior inaccuracies in the gashing of the wheel blank, the hob be withdrawn and re-engaged a part of a turn round, several times during the hobbing process. I have produced several wormwheels that met all MY requirements..ranging from a 63 tooth wheel (For my Howitzer) that was produced from a blank gashed with a hacksaw!! and an 8-32 tap..to a 90 tooth wheel cut with a 1/2"-10 ACME hand tap. (For a rotary table) I would not however, rely on the above methods to produce a worm and wheel to National Physics Lab Standards...or even, with predictable consistancy, to meet the standards of a $40.00 set from Boston Gear. Do however, bear in mind, that when using, even "crudely" produced worms and wheels in a dividing application..that the error is divided and subdivided into "smidgins" that are beyond the measuring capabilities of most HSM's..me included! Robert Bastow ======== Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking Subject: Re: Aging cast iron = Old wife's tale? From: Robert Bastow Date: Wed, 06 Jan 1999 06:30:23 GMT -------- Edward Haas wrote: > > --FWIW I've heard that it was common practise to "age" castings by > placing them next to machinery that produced lots of vibrations, like punch > presses, etc. Did this actually make the ageing process less lengthy than just > having the castings sit around in an out-of-the-way place or is this another > myth?? No it is not a myth, one of the most effective stress relief methods used currently is by means of high frequency vibration. Back in my apprentice days, I recall the occasional "Rush Job" casting would be brought in from the yard "before its time" and subjected to an hour or so on the vibrating screen, used to shake out casings from the sand moulds. After rough machining it would be brought back for another hour "on the screens". Robert Bastow ======== To: FELIZXs Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking Subject: Re: WTB Drafting equipment From: Robert Bastow Date: Wed, 06 Jan 1999 06:32:18 GMT -------- Lotsa that stuff on Ebay ======== Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking Subject: Re: Removing Mill Scale From: Robert Bastow Date: Thu, 07 Jan 1999 01:27:09 GMT -------- Salt and vinegar! Robert Bastow AntiFog wrote: > > Correction: > > What are the best ways to remove mill scale from HOT rolled mild steel? > > Eric. ======== Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking Subject: Re: Drill sizes? - whazit From: Robert Bastow Date: Thu, 07 Jan 1999 01:31:34 GMT -------- Tell it to the Marines, Jim. Robert Bastow Jim Santee wrote: > I disagree. I have found calipers to be accurate to about .0002. ======== Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking Subject: Re: The search for precision From: Robert Bastow Date: Thu, 07 Jan 1999 03:27:37 GMT -------- Hi Wolfgang, I have absolutely no problem with you taking issue on this or any other point. That's what this is all about. Two things spring to mind though: Firstly, that while I agree that in THEORY, the use of balls would be just as accurate as using rollers...there is a snag. With rollers you have line contact, with balls you have point contact. Consider the effect of two balls, resting on a common base and varying in diameter by say, 20 millions. Now you not only have two different diameters in contact but one dia is further from the base line than the other (by 10 millionths). The point of contact is no longer on the median diameter of the ring of balls in your indexing device. Secondly, I did mention that the buttons or rollers should be as "CLOSE IN DIAMETER AS HUMAN ENDEAVOUR CAN MAKE THEM" (Remember we are searching for EXTREME accuracy here) I am afraid that 20 millionths isn't in the right ball park for definitive, primary, reference work. HOWEVER, for HSM purposes, your ring of balls is an excellent choice..Personally, I would choose to use reference grade Roller bearings for the above reasons. Regards, Robert Bastow wfhabicher@hotmail.com wrote: > > However, I would take issue with your statement that the indexing accuracy > of, say 40 toolmaker's buttons assembled around a spigot, is greater, or > better, than 40 selected ball bearing balls arranged in a similar circle > (always assuming, of course, that the buttons or the balls touch each other. > I suppose it depends on the workmanship, and on the accuracy of the > toolmaker's buttons. The bearing balls, on the other hand, are selected to > be all of a diameter within 20 millionths of an inch of each other. ======== Newsgroups: rec.wordworking,rec.crafts.metalworking,trial.rec.metalworking Subject: Re: Please recommend a bench drill press From: Robert Bastow Date: Thu, 07 Jan 1999 06:17:08 GMT -------- Don't pay the extra tab for a Delta. Mine is the same Made-in-Taiwan-with-Chinese-motor-piece-of-sh*t that you can buy cheaper at Grizzly, Harbor Fright etc. Rattles like a "Can o' Mabs" (Marbles in Brit-Speak)..Will vibrate the drill vice clear off the table if left to its own devices, and has more slop in the spindle bearings than Monica has between her legs!! Robert Bastow Charlie Zito wrote: > > Does anyone have any info/opinions on Ryobi 10", 1/3 HP drill presses or > opinions as to how they compare with other makes, such as Delta, > Craftsman, etc.? A local dealer has one on sale. It has a very wide > range of speeds, runs almost 6 amps and seemswell made. I am chiefly > concerned with the 1/3 HP for drilling knifesteel. I would prefer a > 1/2HP. The ten inch Craftsman is 1/2 HP with a wide variety of RPM but > costs about $30.00 more. > Thanks. ======== Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking Subject: Re: Removing Mill Scale From: Robert Bastow Date: Thu, 07 Jan 1999 06:49:51 GMT -------- Serious as a heart attack. Ordinary household white vinegar + pinch of salt (optional) Soak overnight. (Outdoors or your shop will smell like Guiseley Crossroads!!) Robert Bastow AntiFog wrote: > > << Salt and vinegar! >> > > That's interesting. How much salt and how much vinegar? And how fast does it > work? And are you serious ;-)? ======== Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking Subject: Re: Hideous college food; was Parenting teenage girls/raising boys as if they girls. From: Robert Bastow Date: Thu, 07 Jan 1999 17:48:42 GMT -------- Not so Don! Goddamyankee is two words! ;^) The traditional first word of the southern redneck child is not "Dadda" but "Mutha****" Robert Bastow (In the deep South) Don Wilkins wrote: > On the other hand a lot of people in the deep South get to their late > 20's before they learn that damned Yankee is two words. ======== Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking Subject: Re: Drill sizes? - whazit From: Robert Bastow Date: Thu, 07 Jan 1999 20:53:55 GMT -------- There is a world of difference between measuring a KNOWN STANDARD DIMENSION with a caliper and by varying the pressure,angle or other fudgeable factors, to get the caliper to agree with what you believe it should be. If I were to give you a stack of gauge blocks..dimension unknown to you..and tell you your life depended on telling me the correct dimension within +/- 0.0001"...I think most people would pass on the opportunity!! Robert Bastow Randy O'Brian wrote: > > Me too, I just measured 3 different mike standards with my heavily used > Mitutoyo Digimatic caliper. > > 1" read 1.0000, 2" read 1.9995, 3" read 2.9995, all three are Starret > standards. I very rarely need anything better than this unless I'm fitting > ball bearings.....Randy > > Jack Erbes wrote in message <3694D634.D0D1AECA@vom.com>... > >Jim Santee wrote: > > > >> I disagree. I have found calipers to be accurate to about .0002. The > >> problem is getting the calipers at 90 degrees to the work. In that > > > >I would want a caliper that reads to .0001 to feel that I was able to > measure to > >within .0002. > > > >I have great confidence in my typical electronic caliper, when I measure a > high > >precision gage block calibrated to a thousandth and hold both items > carefully and > >apply the "right" pressure I get the right reading consistently. But the > program > >deteriorates if you have to measure, come off the material, and then read > it. > > > >Associated question, has anyone ever read what the logic is that is used to > turn > >the "5" in the tenths place on and off on these typical imported calipers? > Like > >at .0003 it comes on and at .0008 it goes off or something like that? > > > >-- > >Jack in Sonoma, CA, USA (jack@vom.com) > > > > ======== Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking Subject: Re: Approx price of helical gears ? From: Robert Bastow Date: Thu, 07 Jan 1999 21:02:00 GMT -------- Maybe easier, especially with cast iron gears: Drill and tap a line of holes in the broken tooth's gap, screw in a line of threaded studs and file to shape. Use a template made by bashing a bit of lead into an unbroken section of the gear. Frequently used by Millwrights and usually lasts the life of the machine. Robert Bastow Mike Graham wrote: > Just lay down a couple beads of weld, then coat it with braze and > file to shape. Is there an easier way? > ======== Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking Subject: Re: Precision worm gear hobbing From: Robert Bastow Date: Fri, 08 Jan 1999 03:06:38 GMT -------- Jon Barnard wrote: > I have been following this thread, > I am also curious about whether this > type of worm gear would be suitable for a rotary table for a milling > machine. Of course I would use steel for the worm, and bronze for the gear. > > Anybody tried this? > > Thanks, If you have indeed been "following this thread" you will recall that I specifically mentioned that I had "free" hobbed a 90t wheel for a rotary milling table. Robert Bastow > Jon ======== Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking Subject: Re: Opinions reguested From: Robert Bastow Date: Fri, 08 Jan 1999 05:27:18 GMT -------- Jens wrote: > > Question: the contra ground HSS toll bit only took off about 1 thou or > less of the surface - would a cutting load this small result in a > workpiece spring of almost 1/2 thou at 4" on a 1.25" thick solid steel > bar ? > Short answer Jens, is yes it will. Not all of this will be actual "bending" of your test piece..Some will be the bending of your spindle between the bearings, some will be due to the oil film thickness in bearings and slides etc etc. Try this test: Start your cutter (BTW the "contrary" ground cutter applies a lot more force than a regular knife tool) after 1/4" or so, stop the spindle without removing the tool from cut. Now set up a "tenth" reading TDI and zero it on the reverse side of test piece. Retract the tool and watch the needle!!! Press against the test bar with your pinkie...Watch the needle!! NOTHING is totally rigid. > Related questions: How the heck does one produce something like a 10 > or 12" bar that has a dimensional tolerance of 0.0001" ? I didn't want > to use the tailstock as that introduces more chances of a screw-up but > is that the best way of insuring dimensional stability ? Yes. I would never turn even a three inch protrusion without tail stock or steady support. > Should I worry about correcting things or should I leave good-enough > alone ? If the lathe will turn a 1.5" FREE length, up close to the chuck or collet with less than 0.0005" taper TOWARDS the head then I wouldn't worry about it. If the taper is WIDER at the head end...adjust your slides..not the bed. Otherwise you will find your tool point "dragging" as you retract from a bored hole. Try snugging up the carriage clamp EVER SO LIGHTLY when taking the cut. If, after adjusting your tailstock to give EQUAL diameters at both ends of a large diameter, twelve inch bar, you find less that 0.001" of "barrel" in the middle...You are doing fine. If however the test piece is "swamped"..That is it is smaller in the middle than at the ends..you might want to "tweak" the cross leveling at the Tail stock end to see if you can improve it a bit. All the above criteria fall well within the results to be expected in a well adjusted lathe that is anything less than a spanking new "Toolroom" lathe. More importantly the errors are in the "Right" direction..leaving a small amount of metal on O/Ds or I/Ds that can be corrected with a file, emory cloth, lapping or grinding..depending on the results you seek. Designers of good machine tools recognise that wear is inevitable, but try to make the resultant errors lean in the right direction. This is one major advantage that Vee ways have over Flat ways Regards, Robert Bastow ======== Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking Subject: Re: Definition of Lathe "Swing"? From: Robert Bastow Date: Fri, 08 Jan 1999 07:55:01 GMT -------- It all depends...On whether it is an English or an American lathe!! In the UK the convention is to quote the center HEIGHT..therefore a 6" lathe will swing 12" over the bed. In the USA the "swing" is understood to be the TOTAL diameter...Therefore a 6" lathe will swing a workpiece of 6" diameter over the bed. Confusin' ain't it? Robert Bastow John A. Landry wrote: > > This should be a simple question for most of you... > > I'm confused. Does a lathe "swing" specification mean the maximum *diameter* > or *radius* of a workpiece that can be turned? For example, if a lathe > manufacturer says their machine has a 12" swing above the bed, does that mean > a 12" diameter workpiece will fit in, or does that mean a 24" diameter > workpiece will fit? > > Thanks, > > John L. > -------------------------------------------------------------------------- > jlandry AT halcyon DOT com | For such a promiscuous conglomeration > Conservative Libertarian | of numbskulls as generally constitutes > Life Member of the NRA | an army a six pound pull is well > WA Arms Collectors | enough. With an easy pull soldiers > Commercial Helicopter - Inst. | would decimate their own ranks more > http://www.halcyon.com/jlandry/ | than those of the enemy. T. S. Van Dyke ======== To: Chris Topp Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking Subject: Re: Tudor Cannons Forging Techniques From: Robert Bastow Date: Fri, 08 Jan 1999 18:00:04 GMT -------- Hi Chris, You are to be commended for such an undertaking..Quite a task!! So far as the swivel gun is concerned there is only one possible method that comes to mind that would not involve forge welding..either logitudinally or spiral welding' This is to forge from a solid billet in the way that much later (and modern) gunmakers did it. The billet is heated and pierced part way through to form a fat "cup". It is then forged out to length over a bore size mandrel, the outside diameter getting progressively smaller the bore remaining constant and the length growing as forging progresses. In modern practice the proces is called "Drawn over Mandrel" and is used for both pressure vessels and tubing. First a cubic billet (actually the cross section is called "Gothic") is sawn to length, heated to forging temperature and subjected to a piercing/back extrusion operation, that first produces a thick walled cup. This cup is then placed on a long mandrel of the required bore diameter and pushed , horizontally, (on a "Push Bench" no less) through a series of ring or roller dies, that reduce the O/D and elongate the length. This all takes place in ONE heat in about ONE minute!! Interestingly a similar technique is used to make toothpaste tubes!! You might want to contact TI CHESTERFIELD...(if they are still in business)in Chesterfield, Derbyshire. They are the gas cylinder manufacturing arm of Tube Investments (Head Office in Birmingham) They may be able to show you how it is done...they may even be able to do the rough forging and drawing for you! 8^) Robert Bastow (Ex Export Sales Manager..TI Chesterfield) ;^) PS Where in N Yorks are you? I am from the Huddersfield area..now in Atlanta GA Chris Topp wrote: > > We are a company of traditional blacksmiths in England who through our > sister company 'The Real Wrought Iron Co.',are, as far as we know the only > world supplier of real wrought iron. > > We recently constructed a replica wrought iron cannon for the Mary Rose > Trust and the Royal Armouries using metal staves, hoops and bands which was > for the purposes of both firing to ascertain the effectiveness of tudor > weaponary and for display puposes at the Artillery section of the Royal > Armoury at Fort Nelson nr Portsmouth in England. > > We have now been asked to construct a replica of a ship borne swivel gun, > again from the Mary Rose. The gun is a breach loader, some 6ft long with a > 2" bore and will be made from Charcoal Iron. The original however does not > appear from either visual examination or XRay to have any welds in the > barrel. > > Does anyone have any information on how this may have been constructed as we > do not believe they had the ability to bore this size of material. We wish > as far as is possible to use the manufacturing techniques of the period. > > Thanks > > Steve Suff > > Office Manager > > -**** Posted from remarQ, Discussions Start Here(tm) ****- > http://www.remarq.com/ - Host to the the World's Discussions & Usenet ======== Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking Subject: Re: HELP making bearings? From: Robert Bastow Date: Fri, 08 Jan 1999 18:11:39 GMT -------- I made a sliding cross cutting table for my table saw using 2" diameter tubing (a galvanised clothes post!!) for the rail. The rollers came from an up-and-over garage door. Each element had two rollers set at 90 degrees to each other (in a kind of VEE formation) You might want to obtain a copy of "Fine Woodworking on Making and Modifying Machines" Published by: The Taunton Press Inc. 65 South Main Street Box 355 Newtown Ct 06470 This contains several different articles on sliding tables. Robert Bastow onecritter1@webtv.net wrote: > > I am making a sliding woodworking jig that needs to slide back and forth > about 4 feet. In looking at the price of linear bearings and shafting. > I need a cheaper substitute. Could I make the bearings using a collar > that is bored a little larger than the shaft, turn a groove of the > proper depth. and pack with steel ball bearings. I would guess this > groove would have to be polished somehow. I'm thinking about using 1" > hot rolled for the shafting. In the end I want to slide a router along > this tool, need 4 feet of travel. > > I have a lathe, ambition, lack an engineering degree. Any help would be > appreciated. > Tom Albers > Lacey WA ======== Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking Subject: Re: Drill sizes? - whazit From: Robert Bastow Date: Fri, 08 Jan 1999 18:15:55 GMT -------- Randy O'Brian wrote: > > I think you would, too, Robert. No Question!!! I would feel REAL nervous about doing it in a temperature controlled Metrology Lab with a Bench Micrometer!! Robert Bastow > > Randy > > Robert Bastow wrote in message <36952063.ECC7C065@hotmail.com>... > >There is a world of difference between measuring a KNOWN STANDARD DIMENSION > with > >a caliper and by varying the pressure,angle or other fudgeable factors, to > get > >the caliper to agree with what you believe it should be. > > > >If I were to give you a stack of gauge blocks..dimension unknown to > you..and > >tell you your life depended on telling me the correct dimension within +/- > >0.0001"...I think most people would pass on the opportunity!! > > > >Robert Bastow > > > > > >Randy O'Brian wrote: > >> > >> Me too, I just measured 3 different mike standards with my heavily used > >> Mitutoyo Digimatic caliper. > >> > >> 1" read 1.0000, 2" read 1.9995, 3" read 2.9995, all three are Starret > >> standards. I very rarely need anything better than this unless I'm > fitting > >> ball bearings.....Randy > >> > >> Jack Erbes wrote in message <3694D634.D0D1AECA@vom.com>... > >> >Jim Santee wrote: > >> > > >> >> I disagree. I have found calipers to be accurate to about .0002. The > >> >> problem is getting the calipers at 90 degrees to the work. In that > >> > > >> >I would want a caliper that reads to .0001 to feel that I was able to > >> measure to > >> >within .0002. > >> > > >> >I have great confidence in my typical electronic caliper, when I measure > a > >> high > >> >precision gage block calibrated to a thousandth and hold both items > >> carefully and > >> >apply the "right" pressure I get the right reading consistently. But > the > >> program > >> >deteriorates if you have to measure, come off the material, and then > read > >> it. > >> > > >> >Associated question, has anyone ever read what the logic is that is used > to > >> turn > >> >the "5" in the tenths place on and off on these typical imported > calipers? > >> Like > >> >at .0003 it comes on and at .0008 it goes off or something like that? > >> > > >> >-- > >> >Jack in Sonoma, CA, USA (jack@vom.com) > >> > > >> > ======== Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking Subject: Re: newbie question: what finish to expect turning 6061 aluminum? From: Robert Bastow Date: Fri, 08 Jan 1999 19:03:19 GMT -------- It depends what you mean by "SHARP"! The tool should be honed to a razor edge but not to a "sharp" point. Try honing a small flat or radius on the "point" of the tool. Run fast..Feed slow, and use WD40 as a lubricant. This should give you a mirror finish. Robert bastow Daniel A. Segel wrote: > > What kind of finish should I expect when turning a piece of 6061 aluminum > with a sharp HSS tool bit? All the descriptions I see say "smooth", but I'm > getting little lines that are almost (but not quite) big enough to catch > a fingernail on. > > Is this normal? Is it the result of improper speed/feed? How smooth a > finish can I reasonably expect? I haven't had much time to experiment > yet, but I will this weekend. > > Thanks, > > Daniel > -- > Daniel A. Segel > daniels@netcom.com ======== Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking Subject: Re: PG & E bomber From: Robert Bastow Date: Fri, 08 Jan 1999 19:09:01 GMT -------- No, but at three years of age, they might have done if the thought HAD occured to them!! Robert Bastow Ed Rinehart wrote: They never thought to poke a sparkler in someones > eye. ======== Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking Subject: Re: Cutting Fluid - What to use for Home Shop? From: Robert Bastow Date: Fri, 08 Jan 1999 21:20:03 GMT -------- Nasty stuff to get around your nuts..One of the occupational hazards of old machinists working around this stuff was (is) cancer of the testicles!! The fumes can be quite nasty..I use it quite a bit but have set up a fume extraction system and wear a mask...Otherwise I wake up coughing!! Finally, the oil when heated can produce sulphuric acid that will stain the bright parts on your machinery a nasty brown color (found that out on a newly reground bed!!) It also stains brass and copper badly too? Robert Bastow Jon Elson wrote: > > Danny Hopping wrote: > > > I have a Sherline mill and need to cut metal but I know nothing about > > cutting fluids. Joe Martin, in his 'Tabletop Machining' book says NOT > > to use thread cutting oil. He says it has a high sulfur content and to > > avoid it 'like the plague'. > > Why? What problem, exactly, does it cause? I've been using this > stuffexclusively on the lathe, and quite often on the mill. I am not aware > of > any problem in particular. > > Jon ======== Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking Subject: Re: The search for precision From: Robert Bastow Date: Sat, 09 Jan 1999 03:19:20 GMT -------- > What do you think of the work spindle (which holds the gear blank) driven by a > stepper motor (or servo) with signal from a pacer encoder on the hob (cutter) > spindle? > > Between the pacer encoder and the stepper, or servo, motor would be a > computer and motor driver arranged as an electronic gear box. Just punch in > whatever gear ratio you need. What do you think, is such an animal > available? Or could one be built inexpensively from surplus equipment? > Computers I have, same with spindles. Encoders and drivers are strange > beasts to me. > > Regards, Wolfgang > Strange beasts to me too Wolfgang, I don't trust anything I can't see and only half of what I can see. I am sure that, on a production basis, all this fancy, dancy "Electromasonics" stuff works fine...and I'm sure the "True Believers" will, very shortly, explain why it is better than sliced bread. HOWEVER!!!! When it comes to fundamental generation of stuff from first principles I will stick with the good 'ole Mechanical Methods. (When they chime up....ask them how their leadscrews and encoders got calibrated in the first place???) Robert Bastow ======== Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking Subject: Re: PG & E bomber From: Robert Bastow Date: Sat, 09 Jan 1999 03:25:24 GMT -------- Wise Council Don! Wise, wise council! There is no black...no white...just shades of grey. Robert Bastow Don Wilkins wrote: > > On 8 Jan 1999 06:01:52 GMT, "Don Foreman" > wrote: > > > > > > >Don Wilkins wrote in article > ><36ae07dc.9441386@news.wcta.net>... > > > >> Anyone who has seen a two or three year old running around with a > >> sparkler should have seen enough to "not like fireworks" in the hands > >> of the innocent. If it was your child who lost the eye it might have > >> reinforced that opinion. > >> > >What the hell are the parents of the three-year-old doing while he/she is > >running around with a sparkler? > > Standing around watching with their finger up their..... Not an > unusual behavior for some parents. Their kids were out there running > rotary mowers and three wheelers. > > > >Better drain the lake -- the un-parented child may not be able to swim. > > I suspect that we would probably agree on this topic but their is not > enough metal content here. > > I would like to address your comment concerning draining the lake. > Before retirement I put a very large pond on the property I owned. My > kids were under five and my immediate goal was to get them comfortable > in deep water. I was delighted when the youngest passed his mile swim > merit badge at age seven. He was an excellent swimmer at five. > > A good many years later I sold the farm and moved. I returned for the > first time this year in twelve years and the couple was kind enough to > let me wander over the property and reminisce. It was disappointing. > The barn which I had gutted out and put in a basketball court with > lights was filled with junk. The pond was a disaster. > > I asked her about the pond and she said "we don't want the kids to > know it is there". I said nothing but guess whose kids may find the > pond before they know how to swim. > > I know there is all sorts of legislation to protect the stupid. I have > mixed feelings about some of these. Minnesota is a no helmet law state > for motorcycles. I think that this is a good thing because the ones > who don't wear helmets are usually young. They are in good health and > make excellent organ donors so there is a potential positive outcome. > This comes from a rider who was in a head on collision and survived. > > On the other hand it is illegal in Minnesota to place a junk > refrigerator with a positive latch out unless you remove the door. In > fact refrigerators are required to have doors which do not have a > positive latch. God only knows how many kids lives have been saved > because of this legislation. > > You might very well have a different opinion on the helmet law than > you do on the refrigerator doors but both are intrusive. Would you > approve getting the legislation off your back by approving of positive > latches on refrigerator doors? Would you have a problem if your > neighbor had a few of these out behind the garage? > > The dilemma is just how do you decide when someone's ox is being gored > or that someone has had their rights infringed. > > ======== Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking Subject: Re: Opinions reguested From: Robert Bastow Date: Sat, 09 Jan 1999 03:31:30 GMT -------- Hey Buddy...Yer wanna swap lathes??? Robert Bastow Jens wrote: > Robert Bastow wrote: > > >If the lathe will turn a 1.5" FREE length, up close to the chuck or collet with > >less than 0.0005" taper TOWARDS the head then I wouldn't worry about it. > Great, in that case, since I did 3.5" at half a thou taper I am in > great shape. > > Jens ======== Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking Subject: Re: Titanium gloat from Boeing surplus in Seattle From: Robert Bastow Date: Sat, 09 Jan 1999 03:40:43 GMT -------- Drop 'em on your foot...the Titanium hurts about mid way between Al and SS!! With apologies for the obvious. Robert Bastow > Does anyone know a quick field test to distinguish Ti alloys from Al and/or > SS? > Mike > Seattle ======== Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking Subject: Re: Aging cast iron : time to move on From: Robert Bastow Date: Sat, 09 Jan 1999 03:44:28 GMT -------- I'm willing to bet money on it Kurt..Are you?? Robert Bastow Kurt Laughlin wrote: But we can do the > following: 1) Make casting; 2) Set-up and rough machine; 3) Break set-up, > set the part up (re-indicate, etc) again; 4) finish machine. > ======== Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking Subject: Re: Bridgeport REbuild From: Robert Bastow Date: Sat, 09 Jan 1999 03:47:42 GMT -------- FOB means...Free On Board...YOUR Transportation...At THEIR loading dock. No matter WHERE that is. Robert (The Pedantic) Bastow ppierce wrote: > > tinkertool wrote: > > > > Here is link to pic of the Bridgport series2 that I just finished > > putting together sale price is 3500.00 F.O.B. > > Like F.O.B. where??? > ======== Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking Subject: Re: Aging cast iron : time to move on From: Robert Bastow Date: Sat, 09 Jan 1999 05:45:11 GMT -------- You're right Kurt, it is time to move on. I don't mean to belittle your belief in experimental data. BUT!! I am the one who roughed out a lathe bed on a 42' planer and came back after the weekend to find 3/8" of movement had taken place...Damned thing "Twanged" when I loosened the clamp bolts!! Same bed came back after 3 weeks of ambient temp. aging, and I finish planed it "dead on" Three months later the finished machine passed final inspection..no further movement in bed. From PERSONAL experience I can assure you that castings move for months after casting...and again after rough machining. I can also assure you that nothing but "aging" is required to rectify that. Respectfully Robert (well aged) Bastow Kurt Laughlin wrote: > > Yeah, but the same person would have to do the machining, on the same tools, > from the same casting (grey iron), and the part would be of sufficient > complexity as to make distortion control important. Also, for statistical > significance, at least 20 pieces of each method would need to be done (no > joke - I laugh when cartridges are judged on the basis of 5 rounds). Also, > the machinist can't be you. If you're willing to put up the front money, > I'll bet ya $20!! > 8-p > > If you mean to bet on whether or not you can machine a part better than I, > then nope. You are a machinist, I'm an engineer. You have real machine > tools, I have a 7x10 lathe with a mis-aligned tailstock and a Mill-Drill. > Obviously you can machine a part better than I can. But that doesn't mean > that every method, practice, or superstition from 1948 actually added value > to the parts that where made. Nor does it mean that every coolant, > abrasive, or control scheme from 1998 improves the situation. But, given > the choice of legend or the scientific method, I'll go with the repeatable, > controlled, experiment. The alternative, in life more so than machining, is > unthinkable. > > KL ======== Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking Subject: Re: Bridgeport REbuild From: Robert Bastow Date: Sat, 09 Jan 1999 16:22:57 GMT -------- International convention is FREE ON BOARD and has very specific definitions. It covers packaging insurance and transportation to FOB point. If it is FOB a ship the insurance covers the shipment to the point it "Crosses the ship's rail" "Fob your transportation" means that the shipper is responsible for packaging and insurance plus lifting etc to place it safely on your truck at his loading dock. You should pre-arrange YOUR insurance to cover the shipment from that point. Cif means all fob costs, PLUS...Carriage, Insurance and Freight to the destination. It does not include offloading, again the insurance stops at the ship's rail. Robert Bastow Maguire wrote: > > Robert Bastow wrote: > > > > FOB means...Free On Board...YOUR Transportation...At THEIR loading dock. > > > > No matter WHERE that is. > > > > Robert (The Pedantic) Bastow > > > > ppierce wrote: > (snip) > > > Like F.O.B. where??? > > > > > I was of the opinion that F.O.B. meant "Freight on Board", same > definition as above. > > Matt Maguire ======== Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking Subject: Re: Opinions reguested From: Robert Bastow Date: Sat, 09 Jan 1999 19:39:34 GMT -------- Inaccurate tailstocks are one of the EASIEST parts of a lathe to adjust or rectify. Robert Bastow Kurt Bjorn wrote: > The problem with using the tailstock is that if it is not *perfect* (and few > are) it will induce taper. > ======== Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking Subject: Re: iron box advice From: Robert Bastow Date: Sat, 09 Jan 1999 19:44:56 GMT -------- Blacksmiths achieve this finish by heating the part to 4-500 degrees and rubing it with tallow, beeswax or boiled linseed oil. This will produce that blackish, "irony" look and will be durable for indoors use. Robert Bastow TopSpin wrote: > > I've seen a blackish, irony finish on some iron items some time ago and > would quite like a finish similar to this. > > I've no idea how to achieve this or what to use. > > Has anyone got any advice, please? > > thanks, > > Simon ======== Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking Subject: Re: Auction madness From: Robert Bastow Date: Sun, 10 Jan 1999 01:25:35 GMT -------- Perhaps it was signed by the Author...Blue thumbprint!! Robert Bastow Pat Dworzan wrote: > > News flash! In case you're wondering if your old, dog-eared copy of > Machine Tool Reconditioning is still worth what you originally paid for > it, you'll be happy to know that one just sold for $193.50 plus $8.50 > s/h on the eBay auction website. A brand new one cost only $92.50, plus > $6.00 s/h. I wonder how much I can get for my NIB copy? I think I gave > $73.25 for it six or seven years ago and still have the original > shipping carton to go with it. Do I hear $250.00? ======== Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking Subject: Re: Looking for LATHE MILL DrILl From: Robert Bastow Date: Sun, 10 Jan 1999 01:26:33 GMT -------- They are ALL lower end Hans! ;^) Hans Vogel wrote: > > I need a lower end 3 in one Lathe mill drill. Any recommendations? ======== Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking Subject: Re: Opinions reguested From: Robert Bastow Date: Sun, 10 Jan 1999 01:29:59 GMT -------- Vertically!! Ted Edwards wrote: > > Robert Bastow wrote: > > > Inaccurate tailstocks are one of the EASIEST parts of a lathe to adjust or > > rectify. > > Horizontally, yes. Vertically??? > > Ted ======== Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking Subject: Re: Best steel for making a boring bar? From: Robert Bastow Date: Sun, 10 Jan 1999 02:57:29 GMT -------- Hi Kevin, By "Best" steel I take it that you are looking for the most rigidity..thus least vibration. ALL steels have the same modulus of rigidity..doesn't matter what the alloying or heat treatment!! Thus, a piece of dead mild steel, old rebar or heat treated tool steel will ale give the same performance in a boring bar. To gain rigidity you have to go to a "stiffer" material. Generally the choice is Tungsten carbide, used in the solid or as a core. However, for the length/diameter ratio you are talking about here...forget boring! you will need to use some kind of drill and reamer combination to prevent chatter. Sorry, Robert Bastow Kevin C. Archibald wrote: > > Hello, > > I am going to make a LONG boring bar, and I'm looking for the best > suited steel for it's construction. The hole I'm going to be boring > will be 1-1/4" diameter, and 10-1/2" deep. Any suggestions? > > Thanks, > _kevin ======== Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking Subject: Re: Bridgeport REbuild From: Robert Bastow Date: Sun, 10 Jan 1999 18:29:04 GMT -------- Spehro Pefhany wrote: > > > > Sometimes items are specified as (forget the acronym, but..) just moved to > alongside the conveyance, so if there are longshoremen or whatever to be > paid (off) it is your cost. > Hi Spehro, The term you are looking for is "FAS"...Free Along Side. You are dead right about the "WHERE". All these are clearly defined terms under INTERNATIONAL LAW and, among other things, stipulate the point at which the contract is fullfilled, payment is due, responsibility and liability ends or starts and ownership passes. FOB "X" means FREE on board at X and, under International Convention implies that delivery to the customers hands and responsibility takes place at the suppliers "end". If the contract calls for delivery to the customer at his home port or loading dock etc., the correct term becomes CIF...Costs, Insurance and Freight. "FOB your dock" is incorrect (but common) usage here in the USA where "exporting" means the next county to most people!! Robert Bastow ======== Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking Subject: Re: Bridgeport REbuild From: Robert Bastow Date: Sun, 10 Jan 1999 18:31:15 GMT -------- Charlie..see my response to Spehro. Robert Charles Gallo wrote: > > Robert, > Being pedantic, actually it depends - if it's F.O.B. THEIR > dock, your right, if it's F.O.B. Mars, it's F.O.B. Mars and they are > responsible for getting it there - F.O.B Your dock, means that they > will transport to you, at their responsibility and cost. F.O.B Your > Dock, bill customer - They are responsible for the shipment (If it > breaks, they still own it), but they will bill you back for the cost > of the shipping. > > Like the man said - F.O.B. WHERE - and even if it is their dock, > where is that dock? > > Charlie > > On Sat, 09 Jan 1999 03:47:42 GMT, Robert Bastow > wrote: > > >FOB means...Free On Board...YOUR Transportation...At THEIR loading dock. > > > >No matter WHERE that is. > > > >Robert (The Pedantic) Bastow > > > >ppierce wrote: > >> ======== Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking Subject: Re: stress relieving castiings and other metals From: Robert Bastow Date: Sun, 10 Jan 1999 18:42:06 GMT -------- Hi David, Please go to your nearest library and look up the aims, definitions and processes of: Annealing Normalising Stress Relieving Hardening Tempering Then re-read that what you just writ!! David P. Anderson wrote: > > Hi, > > All metals, regardless of hardness, or material have stresses built up in > them, and most stress "relieving" techniques are designed to allow the > material structure to become plastic enough so that the stresses equalize, and > balance each other out. > > Annealing is the process of making a ferrous material the softest it can > be, allowing it to deform in small areas, and have a uniform structure. If you > annealed a hardened piece, it would no longer be hard. What you want to do, > and what you described, is tempering. Tempering softens, and stress relieves > the material, but it's main purpose is to make the material "tougher" or not > so brittle. > > Most steels will stress relieve really well, if placed in a 400-500 deg. > kitchen oven for several hours. Which really pisses my wife off, every time I > do it. > > http://www.matweb.com/ has a lot of info on a wide variety of materials, and > some good links, as does www.mlc.lib.mi.us/~stewarca/steelynx.html > > Dave > > JF wrote: > > > i am just recently getting started in the hobby of machining and all the > > recent discussion on stress relieving got me to thinking about some books i > > have been reading about machining and metals. they say that even metals > > such as cold rolled steel and just about every other way steel is formed > > will cool to have stresses in it such that if the piece being machined isn't > > > > done uniformly or taken into consideration that the piece will "warp". > > > > so i guess that every metal basicly has loads of stress built up as it cools > > > > unless it is cooled very slowly, like hours. isn't that one reason that > > after a peice of metal is heat treated it needs to be annealed by heating to > > > > the straw color and then quenching again. > > > > like i said i am only recently getting interested in all this stuff but in > > reading about the metalurgy aspects of this craft there is a couple of > > things that can mess up a well thought out project after many hours of time > > spent on it. > > > > ps several years ago when i was in the woodworking fun i had i jointer > > that i bought new. it was one of the taiwan type machines. it worked fine > > > > for several years and then it slowly started to have a problem with the > > fence. the stupid thing had begun to warp into a twist so that the board > > being machined was changing it's angle relative to the table as it was moved > > > > down the machine. > > > > just my two cents to a very interesting topic. > > David Anderson > > David Anderson > > HTML Mail > Additional Information: > Last Name Anderson > First Name David > Version 2.1 ======== Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking Subject: Re: Best steel for making a boring bar? From: Robert Bastow Date: Sun, 10 Jan 1999 21:08:17 GMT -------- What kind of wood do you recommend? ;^) B&L Denard wrote: > > Why not build a floating boring bar? > Bill D. ======== Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking Subject: Re: Opinions reguested From: Robert Bastow Date: Sun, 10 Jan 1999 21:20:05 GMT -------- First rescrape tailstock base to fit bed. Plane or mill top of base DEAD parallel to newly scraped surfaces. Reassemble base and tailstock, true for horizontal axis. Measure EXACT distance that T/S axis is below headstock axis. Make a shim..Full size of base and glue in place (between T/S and Base)...with super glue. Reassemble...Smile! Note: final T/S position should be 0.001 to 0.002" ABOVE center to allow for bedding in of T/S in use and to ensure that future wear only makes the machine more accurate. Robert Bastow Ted Edwards wrote: > > Robert Bastow wrote: > > > Vertically!! > > How? ======== Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking Subject: Re: 6" buck chuck on ebay (wrong item no) From: Robert Bastow Date: Sun, 10 Jan 1999 21:23:36 GMT -------- That number worked for me!! mulligan@advinc.com wrote: > > In article <19990110025312.01576.00007609@ng36.aol.com>, > azotic@aol.com (AZOTIC) wrote: > > Hi All > > > > Anyone needing a 6" buck adjust-tru chuck can > > check ebay item # 55498711 > > The item number is incorrect - you cannot mount > a dresser on an NC lathe. At least not that I > know of... > > Use the search facility for "buck chuck" and it > will pop up. > > Jim > > -----------== Posted via Deja News, The Discussion Network ==---------- > http://www.dejanews.com/ Search, Read, Discuss, or Start Your Own ======== Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking Subject: Re: Ebay From: Robert Bastow Date: Mon, 11 Jan 1999 03:56:09 GMT -------- I HATE EBAY!!! I NEVER GO THERE!! WHEN I DO I GET NOTHING BUT JUNK FROM TWISTERS!! NOBODY IN THEIR RIGHT MIND WOULD USE EBAY!! PLEASE BOYCOTT EBAY!! Robert Bastow ;^) ======== Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking Subject: Re: Ebay From: Robert Bastow Date: Mon, 11 Jan 1999 05:59:05 GMT -------- Moi???? Joe Way wrote: > > On Mon, 11 Jan 1999 03:56:09 GMT, Robert Bastow > wrote: > > >I HATE EBAY!!! I NEVER GO THERE!! > > > >WHEN I DO I GET NOTHING BUT JUNK FROM TWISTERS!! > > > >NOBODY IN THEIR RIGHT MIND WOULD USE EBAY!! > > > >PLEASE BOYCOTT EBAY!! > > > >Robert Bastow ;^) > ==== > Got a few bids in and you're trying to run off the competition, eh > Robert? > > Joe ======== Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking Subject: Re: Ebay From: Robert Bastow Date: Mon, 11 Jan 1999 06:05:50 GMT -------- Interesting dissertation Kurt. I hope you didn't stay up late writing it. You are dead right about the "caveat emptor" that appears on the last line..one should read the fine print before jumping in. By the way...Did you read what I said on my last line?? Robert Bastow ;^) Kurt Laughlin wrote: > > Robert Bastow wrote: > >I HATE EBAY!!! I NEVER GO THERE!! > > > >WHEN I DO I GET NOTHING BUT JUNK FROM TWISTERS!! > > > >NOBODY IN THEIR RIGHT MIND WOULD USE EBAY!! > > > >PLEASE BOYCOTT EBAY!! > > > >Robert Bastow ;^) > > Yet another thing we disagree on, Robert. I have bought model kits and > books from EBAY and have found the items to be exactly as described. > Obviously, since I chose my max bid based on what I considered a fair price, > I think I made an acceptable deal. Sure, I've been sniped out of items by > fifty cents, 10 seconds before the end of the auction, but so what? The > cost to me was zero. > > In my experience, the people who complain the most about ebay are those who > got sniped at the last minute on an item that they considered "theirs", or > people who let their egos run wild and kept bidding an item higher and > higher because someone dared to challenge them with a higher bid. > > As to the quality of the items you've gotten, on the bottom of every screen > are the words "Caveat Emptor". Only rarely is the item not as described. > More likely people are upset because it's not what they *imagined* it to be. > If you have doubts, don't bid. > > As to the "twisters" they are not ebay's fault, anymore than a drive-in > theater is to blame when there is a shyster at their Sunday AM flea market. > Ebay is just the forum, about as much to blame as your ISP. > > In summary, I've gotten through ebay things I wanted (things that in many > cases I have not been able to find elsewhere), at prices I considered fair, > all based on my own judgement. I'd say this is pretty good evidence of a > right mind. Screaming in a news group, on the other hand. . . > > KL ======== Newsgroups: rec.knives,rec.crafts.metalworking,rec.woodworking Subject: Re: Help remove protective coating from new drill press! From: Robert Bastow Date: Mon, 11 Jan 1999 06:21:12 GMT -------- Leave the protective coating on it Charlie...It might deaden some of the noise if it vibrates as much as the POS I bought new from Delta last year. Bonus is...You can always sell it as "New in Box" on Ebay ;^) [Are you watching Kurt? I said ;^) ] Robert Bastow Charlie Zito wrote: > > Finaly made a decision and bought a 12" Delta drill press. The first > assembly instruction regards removing the protective coating from the > machined surfaces. ======== Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking Subject: Re: Ebay From: Robert Bastow Date: Mon, 11 Jan 1999 06:28:26 GMT -------- OK! OK ALREADY!! I'll come clean. I think Ebay is great..I have bought many wonderous devices already and have been delighted with the quality and service I have received from ever single supplier. (Except one...and I fully expect our little difficulty to be resolved when he eventually gets round to reading his email!!!) Robert Bastow ======== Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking Subject: Re: Looking for LATHE MILL DrILl From: Robert Bastow Date: Mon, 11 Jan 1999 15:29:45 GMT -------- My apologies Hans...By "Lathe,Mill,Drill I usually infer the Import Taiwanese/Chinese Grizzly type. I forgot about the Emco range. Heck! I have a Maximat Super II myself, tho' I don't ever want to hang a milling machine on the back of it. In general I prefer the separate, dedicated machine approach...but that is a purely personal choice. Robert bastow Hoyt McKagen wrote: > > Scott Logan wrote: > > > > On Sun, 10 Jan 1999 01:26:33 GMT, Robert Bastow > > wrote: > > > > >They are ALL lower end Hans! ;^) > > Not true. I have Maximat V10 and it's as fine a bit of mfg as anything > I've ever seen, well at least anything with Acme screws. I converted it > to CNC using ball screws and so forth and though it's about 35-40 years > old will still hold .0005" and repeat .0002". > > Best regards, > > Hoyt McKagen > > Belfab CNC: http://www.freeyellow.com/members/belfab/belfab.html > Best MC Repair- http://www.freeyellow.com/members/batwings/best.html > Camping/Caving- http://www.freeyellow.com/members/batwings/caving.html > 'It's the end of the world as we know it; I feel fine' <=Michael Stipe ======== Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking Subject: Re: PG & E bomber From: Robert Bastow Date: Mon, 11 Jan 1999 16:37:47 GMT -------- Think how much you would save on Viagra!! John Robinson wrote: > and 160 listings for erector sets!!! but over $150 for a set???! ouch! ======== Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking Subject: Re: PG & E bomber From: Robert Bastow Date: Mon, 11 Jan 1999 21:07:47 GMT -------- Better to fail than never have dared to begin eh! ppierce wrote: > > Robert Bastow wrote: > > > > Think how much you would save on Viagra!! > > Cut the pill in half (or quarters) $3 or $6 beats the hell out of $12. > What they need is one for girls (over 60)..... > > -- > Paul in AJ AZ, NRA Endowment Member MSC stockholder (150 shares) > Checkout http://www.dejanews.com > also("Dropbox")http://www.metalworking.com > Checkout (MWN)the Metal Web News at: http://www.mindspring.com/~wgray1/ > Checkout the FAQ at: http://w3.uwyo.edu/~metal ======== Newsgroups: rec.knives,rec.crafts.metalworking,rec.woodworking Subject: Re: Help remove protective coating from new drill press! From: Robert Bastow Date: Tue, 12 Jan 1999 02:24:24 GMT -------- My local Delta Distributor did exchange the motor under warranty (after 6 months of bitchin' from me) Same old POS Chinese motor...helped a bit but not a whole heluva lot. I changed the belts..no effect; everything I can pull off and balance has been so dealt with. Still it rattles like a can o' mabs!! Way too much "for and aft" play in the spindle drive splines for my way of thinking. Thinking now of dumping the sorry SOB back on them. Robert Bastow Roger Blake wrote: > > Robert Bastow wrote in message <369999EC.D087E89F@hotmail.com>... > >Leave the protective coating on it Charlie...It might deaden some of the > noise > >if it vibrates as much as the POS I bought new from Delta last year. > > I concur, the Delta Taiwaness drill presses are POS. I bought one once had > to take it back. Checked more at that store, most were the same way. > Probably the motor but not sure. ======== Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking Subject: Re: what are these Mic's worth? From: Robert Bastow Date: Tue, 12 Jan 1999 02:38:50 GMT -------- A) Does it matter whether Lufkin are made any more? They were (still are) the equal of Starrett in every way! B) "Everybody" don't know a whole helluva lot about GOOD tools C) Check 'em out yourself..not just for zero on the end standards but properly, with a set of micrometer gauge blocks and optical flats. If you don't have any or don't know how to calibrate a micrometer...find some one that does. D) If they check out they are likely to outlive you..So buy the damned things or shut up about it..don't question the veracity of those who try to help you. E) Next time you have a question..Ask "Everybody"...You'll get far politer answers from them than you will from these good folks. Robert Bastow Who is known to suffer fools gladly...ONCE!! Jeff Pack wrote: > Really? hm,, everyone, except Grant, has said they werent worth the money. > > MSC has some nice prices on equal quality some said... > > Is Lufkin even made anylonger? ======== Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking Subject: Re: Off Topic: Killing Rats From: Robert Bastow Date: Tue, 12 Jan 1999 02:42:57 GMT -------- Dogs are better for rats...get a Jack Russel, Schnauzer or a Doberman. The Dobe will see off the cats too Pure poetry to watch!! 8^) Robert Bastow > Get your own cat - large, female. > ======== Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking Subject: Re: Off Topic: Killing Rats From: Robert Bastow Date: Tue, 12 Jan 1999 02:46:33 GMT -------- Yeh! But whatcha gonna do when they start shootin' back? Felice Luftschein & Nicholas Carter wrote: > At 50 yds. I can pick off little green plastic armymen with mine. ======== Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking Subject: Re: questions: jet lathe 1340, belt vs. gear drive, taper attachment From: Robert Bastow Date: Tue, 12 Jan 1999 02:53:53 GMT -------- Fundamentally...In that grade of machine the belt drive is simpler cheaper QUIETER and less likely to go awry. The finish on parts will be better too..It takes a helluva gearhead to eliminate gear "ripples" from the work piece. Only disadvantage of belt drive is that it take a wee bit longer to change speeds. Robert Bastow tim wrote: > > i'm considering a new jet lathe, and am interested in a few more > opinions. i've been looking at the 1340 models. > > what are the practical differences between belt drive and geared head? > there is a significant price difference (geared model is priced more > by 400USD - 900USD), but i haven't found a reason to not get the belt > drive model. why should i consider the geared model instead? > > have any of you used the jet taper attachment? what is your opinion > of that? why does it cost $200 to have installed? if i install it > myself, will i wish i paid to have it done? > > as an aside, can you tell me where i might find some nylon (or > similarly soft) chuck jaws? i want them to hold wood without marking > it. > > finally, if you have a lathe in that class (not necessarily jet, or > new) for sale in mn, feel free to make a pitch (dealers welcome). > > thanks for your help, > > tim ======== Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking Subject: Re: Of MSC and whining From: Robert Bastow Date: Tue, 12 Jan 1999 03:08:11 GMT -------- Hey Gail..I hope you don't mind my occasional bad language (and spelling0 ;^) Hey Assberry..Give her a chance to respond! I have had nothing but great service from my (Local) MSC center ...Still trying to get a catalogue from the "other guys" What does that tell YOU?? Robert Bastow AAsberry wrote: > > >You will have a helluva time getting your refund if you have to return a > >"drop > >shipped item. MSC wants you to return in to the supplier and then the records > >will mysteriously disappear. They will "yes" you when you call but do > >nothing, > >and eventually you will just give up and take the loss. As you can tell, I am > >not > >a fan. > > > > > Here is an e-mail I received from Gail at MSC: > > Andy-- My name is Gail and I work for MSC in NY. I read rcm everyday > and I was quite concerned when I saw you post this morning. I spoke > with the manager of the Dallas branch (Gary Banner) to better understand > the shipping of Kennedy tool boxes. He asked me to get in touch with you > to get the details on your order. Could you email the account number > used to place the order(or the packing slip #) so we can investigate > your situation. Gary advised me that the normal practice is NOT to ship > tool boxes-- especially a short distance as you indicated(20 miles). > The branch will "van" deliver them. We are both anxious to get this > situation checked out. I look forward to your email. < > krauseg@mscdirect.com > Thanks, Gail > > After repeated e-mails, haven't heard from her since. Draw your own > conclusions. > > Andy > > Prescription without diagnosis is malpractice. In medicine and mechanics. ======== Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking Subject: Re: Enco 12X36 lathe taper attachment From: Robert Bastow Date: Tue, 12 Jan 1999 03:45:16 GMT -------- Making one is not difficult...Chris Heapy has the "words and music" on his web page. > > > > I'm sort of interested in a taper attachment. Comments??? > > ======== Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking Subject: Re: Lufkin From: Robert Bastow Date: Tue, 12 Jan 1999 20:27:38 GMT -------- I am glad to see that someone else shares my view of Lufkin's products. To my way of thinking they were the best of all...better designed and finished than even Starrett, and with that certain "feel" that is so hard to define. If our original poster does not want to buy this set of Lufkins..would he please pass on the source so that other, more discerning listers, can have a crack at them! Robert Bastow APP Leader wrote: I have yet to see any product from that country that could > compare to a Lufkin product. It's too bad they're no longer in business. I > had a 0-1" Lufkin once, I loved it. Sombody stole it and the only mic I > could ever find that could even compare is a Starrett. That Lufkin just felt > good in your hand. > ======== Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking Subject: Re: what are these Mic's worth? From: Robert Bastow Date: Tue, 12 Jan 1999 20:31:54 GMT -------- One thing is for sure...The Lufkins, well taken care of, will only appreciate in value. Take a look at the prices being paid on ebay (Ebay eBay??) for good condition Lufkin, B&S and Starrett products...Compared with Polish or Japanese stuff. Robert Bastow ======== Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking Subject: Re: what are these Mic's worth? From: Robert Bastow Date: Tue, 12 Jan 1999 20:46:23 GMT -------- Fitch R. Williams wrote: Fitch, You won't get any flak from me one any of your points. You do bring a much needed air of rason to this discussion. Us "Old Farts" have reached a time of life when Quality means more than Quantity and the "Doing of" means more than the "Achievement of"...Which, with our experience, becomes more and more of a given. Would I pay $400 for a set of Lufkins, or Starretts, or Moore & Wrights in fine condition? Undoubtably!! Should someone, younger, with less disposable means pay that, when: A) Nostalgia hasn't occured to him yet. B) 400 bucks will buy a set of decent mikes, a dial indicator, a set of drills, shoes for the kids and half a weeks groceries! Ain't non of my Damned Business!!! Ther will be other Lufkins in his future..Maybe yours or mine if we take care of them. Robert Bastow > >In good shape, this guy wants 400$, seems high, comments? > > I have a set of Ratchet Lufkin mics up to 3". I was given them by my > Dad who was bequeathed them by a Plastic Surgeon friend (whom I also > knew) that had a lathe. I love them, and have them on the shelf over > the lathe in their nicely fitted mahogany box. They check out dead > nuts after I adjusted the zero on them. They will outlast me by a lot > of years and may be older than I am (56) to start with. I always > reach for them first if I happen to be standing at the lathe. they > are a pleasure to hold and to use - no question. > > IMO they are as good as Starrett mikes in every way (I have two > Starrett 0 - 1" mics). The ones I have are essentially as new having > seen only infrequent hobby use over the many years. > > Now is where I get in trouble ... I can hear Pete's and Robert's guns > traversing from here ... oh well ... what's life with out a good cross > fire ... > > Having said that, would I spend $400.00 to buy a set as you describe? > The answer is not if the $400.00 was a significant sum to me - and it > would be, or I just couldn't bear the though of using something else > to measure with and would hate myself the rest of my life - and I > wouldn't. I bought a set of Chinese mics from 0" to 4" before the > Lufkin mics came into my posession. I haven't been able to find an > instance where the chinese mics weren't as good as the Lufkin ones. > The Chinese set cost me less than $90.00 including tax. The chinese > set has the advantage that they are marked in .0001" divisions, the > Lufkin are marked to .001". > > For $400.00 one can have a usable set of Chinese mics and a dividing > head, or mikes and a QC tool post with holders, or ..... > > Its the same old trade off. Shop capability for the buck. You gotta > want Lufkin mics really bad to spend $400 on the functionality you can > buy for less than a $120 someplace else - and your projects will never > know the difference. > > Still, they do feeeeeeel gooooooooood ... > > YMMV > > Fitch > In So. Cal. > > The FAQ for RCM is http://w3.uwyo.edu/~metal. > Metal Web News at http://www.mindspring.com/~wgray1/ > The "Drop Box" is at http://www.metalworking.com/ ======== Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking Subject: Re: Off Topic: Killing Rats From: Robert Bastow Date: Tue, 12 Jan 1999 20:53:52 GMT -------- If you are a single guy in need of a date...Borrow a puppy or a baby and go sit in the park or a mall!!!!. When invitably approached by a lovely lass..Say to the puppy or baby, "See if you can get her phone number kid!" Works every time! Robert Bastow Don Wilkins wrote: > I know a young (single) male here who has his dog trained so that when > he is talking to a sweet young thing the dog will circle her and then > pull enough on the leash to pull her towards him. ======== Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking Subject: Re: questions: jet lathe 1340, belt vs. gear drive, taper attachment From: Robert Bastow Date: Tue, 12 Jan 1999 21:06:08 GMT -------- Yeh! But now we are talking high quality, high cost, toolroom lathes. Whole different subject! Robert Bastow (Who misses his Smart and Browne Model A) Bob Powell wrote: > > Most (?) modern gear-heads may be this way, but some older lathes have the > best of both worlds -- in the higher speed settings using a belt for the > final spindle drive, to reduce vibration transmitted to the workpiece. Mine > uses a toothed flat belt, outboard of the gear case, to connect the gear > train to the spindle in the top 4 speeds. > > Bob > > Fitch R. Williams wrote in message <369bcb58.8781528@news.newsguy.com>... > >Robert Bastow wrote: > > > >>The finish on parts will be better too..It > >>takes a helluva gearhead to eliminate gear "ripples" from the work piece. > > > >Couple up gear head with single phase power and you get really > >interesting finish sometimes. Can't "feel" it but sure can see it as > >an interesting moire pattern reflecting the light. Lots less of it > >with three phase running off a balanced converter. > > > >Fitch > >In So. Cal. > > > >The FAQ for RCM is http://w3.uwyo.edu/~metal. > >Metal Web News at http://www.mindspring.com/~wgray1/ > >The "Drop Box" is at http://www.metalworking.com/ ======== Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking Subject: Re: Titanium gloat from Boeing surplus in Seattle From: Robert Bastow Date: Tue, 12 Jan 1999 21:16:20 GMT -------- The competition darts were probably tungsten...objective being to make them as DENSE as possible. However, I agree with you on the machineability of Titanium..It is not difficult at all if you know how to go about it. Point your server at Titanium and you will find lots of usful information on machining this material. APP Leader wrote: > Don't laugh. I haven't seen any Titanium lawn darts -Yet-, but I have seen > some Titanium darts for dart board competition. > > I don't think anyone gets the Warm Fuzzy's from having to deal with a piece > of Titanium. Personally, I don't think it's that bad. ======== Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking Subject: Re: New Shop Nirvana From: Robert Bastow Date: Wed, 13 Jan 1999 00:05:59 GMT -------- Nigel Eaton wrote: The only snag is the tendency to stand in the > middle of the floor with a big silly grin on my face, accomplishing > nothing :^) This is not a SNAG Nigel...Sometimes it is the WHOLE POINT!! I do it often. I would add that an essential piece of equipment in my shop is a comfortable armchair where I am often content to sit and dream. Thanks for sharing this and I wish you many, many happy hours of "silly grinning". Robert Bastow ======== Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking Subject: Re: Shoptask users list? From: Robert Bastow Date: Wed, 13 Jan 1999 00:31:11 GMT -------- All sounds a bit incestuous to me. ;^) Sure you will all learn from each other..but like any closed society the knowledge will eventally suffer from a limited gene pool. Opinions nad guesses will eventually become to regarded as "the only true way". You are going to be cutting yourself off from a vast pool of experience and knowhow. Now, you may argue that you will visit here as well..But I and many others are sure as hell not going to visit there. Think about it. FWIW Robert Bastow RatliffGrp wrote: > > GOOD IDEA! > > I, for one, would very much like to be included in a list specifically for > SHOPTASK owners. I feel we could all learn from one another. If you find any > such list, or decide to create one, keep me informed please. > > Ratliffgrp@AOL.COM ======== Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking Subject: Re: Dividing Head From: Robert Bastow Date: Wed, 13 Jan 1999 04:02:49 GMT -------- I dunno WHAT you are counting..But Brown & Sharpe dividing heads have 40 teeth on the worm wheel!! a 75:1 ratio would be pretty useless..Especially with the hole circles that you quote (which are standard for the #1 plate on any B&S dividing head). Robert Bastow > I cannot help but also have a Brown & Sharpe dividing head. The main > wheel (If I have counted corrected) has 75 teeth to engage with the > worm, and has 18,19,22,24,26, & 28 holes.The number is 3325. > I wonder if mine is the same type as yours, if you findout how to get n > instruction mnual please let me know > > GW > > > > -----------== Posted via Deja News, The Discussion Network ==---------- > http://www.dejanews.com/ Search, Read, Discuss, or Start Your Own ======== Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking Subject: Re: what are these Mic's worth? From: Robert Bastow Date: Wed, 13 Jan 1999 06:39:19 GMT -------- mulligan@advinc.com wrote: > >...So buy the damned things or > > shut up about it..don't question the veracity of those who try to help you. > > Wow. I really don't think Jeff was trying to be difficult with his post. > I suspect he was just trying to make sense of the wealth of information > that came back at him, reconciling what looked like markedly different > opinions. In retrospect I was very rude to Jeff and for that I apologise. Jeff...Please forgive an Old Fart who was ready for his warm milk and a nap > Now about using optical flats to inspect micrometers - I've never > heard of it. Is it done to check for flatness and paralellism on > the faces? Does one need a special lamp to illuminate for this, to > see the lines? > > Thanks - Jim Optical flats are cylinders of special glass with their two flat faces ground, lapped and polished to be as flat and parallel as possible. Placed on a "flat" surface to be checked, or held lightly between the anvils of a micrometer they give a clear indication of the flatness, parallelism etc by means of bands of color. Any deviation from flatness on the subject surface will produce a gap of varying thickness and this in turn will allow for refraction of light between the two surfaces..the wavelength of which will vary as the error varies. As different wave- lengths produce different colors, the degree, extent and nature of aberration can be clearly seen. Domeing will produce concentric rings, "Umps and 'ollers will show wavelike mands and out-of-parallel anvils wil produce arcs, like a seashell. As different colors represent very precise distances, optical flats can allso be used to measure objects down to the length of a wavelength of light. The gage blocks in a mic. checking set are designed, not only to check accuracy at different length settings, but also at different angular positions of the thimble. Using optical flats in conjunction with gage blocks will show up cases where the faces are parallel but not square to the true axis. More than you wanted to know huh! Robert Bastow ======== Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking Subject: Re: Help removing studs From: Robert Bastow Date: Wed, 13 Jan 1999 07:06:51 GMT -------- Here's how we used to remove studs from steam turbine casings..some of them up to 6" diameter. If they are true studs, that is they have a plane cylindrical section between the two theaded ends your job is somewhat easier. Take a large block of steel (we used bronze as it is less likely to put stress rising marks on the studs..Yer pays yer money and yer takes yer choice) Bore a CLOSE fitting hole through its center (cut a thread to match the stud if it is allthread) Split the block lengthways. Drill holes and fit at least four BIG clamping bolts and nuts (six or eight is better. Dust the bore surfaces with powdered resin and clamp the two block halves TIGHTLY onto the stud. Use a "hammer wrench" to start the stud moving. (A hammer wrench is a short wrench with a heavy pad on the end of the handle designed to be hit with a hammer. Ours were flame cut from six inch boiler plate, slung from the crane and hit with a 32 pound sledge hammer by the biggest guy in the shop) Robert Bastow It is not just knowing that it needs to be hit with a hammer...But WHERE and how HARD!! Stan Stocker wrote: > > Can you get two nuts that match the stud threads? Run one down as far as > you can, run the second one down and tighten, then use a wrench on the > lower nut. It might actually require more than two nuts to get sufficient > clamping pressure on the threads, but this usually works. I must admit > though that 3/4 inch studs are about the biggest I've pulled this way, and > they sure were not 4 foot long! > > Stan. > > John Lynch wrote: > > > I've been given the task of finding an easy to remove some very long > > engine studs. Any one have some ideas? Here is what I'm dealing with - > > > > The engine - Fairbanks Morse V16 > > The head studs - Roughly 1 1/2" dia 4 feet long > > > > The reason for removel is to have the studs tested for fatigue. > > > > Thanks - John (john@erie.net) ======== Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking Subject: Re: Help!!! From: Robert Bastow Date: Wed, 13 Jan 1999 07:10:26 GMT -------- There may well be (SHOULD BE) a torque limiting clutch in that gear box. It perhaps needs adjusting. Robert Bastow Greg wrote: > > I got a Steinell horizontal mill last summer and just got the > single/three phase converter to run it a couple of days ago. The main > motor runs ok, the pump motor runs ok, the mechanical power feed does > not run ok. I pulled off the back cover and the belts driving the > gearbox are not slipping but the tork out of the powerfeed gearbox is so > low the shaft can be stopped by grabbing it. Does anybody know what is > in the powerfeed gearbox? Or eaven better where I might find some > documentation on the mill. > Greg ======== Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking Subject: Re: Mysteries Revealed (B'port M head) From: Robert Bastow Date: Wed, 13 Jan 1999 07:16:32 GMT -------- Save some money Jim, I very much doubt that ABEC 7 bearings would be justified ANYWHERE on a Bridgeport. They are designed for highly critical, usually high speed applications such as small hole grinders etc. I doubt that, under workshop conditions, one could maintain the cleanliness and the lubrication system required to keep them running for long. FWIW Robert Bastow mulligan@advinc.com wrote: > > For those who care, here's an update: > > I am in the middle of a doing the spindle bearings on an M head. > When I got the machine, it was pretty noisy, indeed it howled a > *lot* on the highest speed. > > With the idea in mind of at least inspecting the spindle bearings, > I dismantled it completely. It is now down to (as my wife says) > "individual Bridgeport molecules." > > The disassembly was easier than I thought. These things are built > like a puzzle - the bearings are as far "in" as you can go, so > everthing has to come apart to get at them. The hardest part > was making some special pin wrenches to remove the nuts that secure > the bearings' inner races to the spindle. The small press at > work was helpful but not essential. (thanks, Roger!) > > After looking at all the pieces, I now understand how the oiling > on this head is done. There is one large oil cup at the top, which > feeds a gallery machined into the upper aluminum castings, to deliver > oil to the very top of the pulley bearings. The cup is situated > slightly above the uppermost bearing, ensuring correct flow. > There is a wick in the cup which sets the flow rate. > From there the oil drips into the top of the opening in the quill, > which is nicely chamfered to help the drips to make it inside. > The upper bearings in the quill get the flow first, and then from > there gravity sends the oil to the lower bearings. It drips out > the two holes in the bottom of the nosepiece in a total loss > system. > > There are no seals or sheilds on these bearings, and there is no > seal at the bottom other than a sort of labyrinth which might stop > some junk from being blown back up. I might consider a felt washer > here during reassembly. > > The bearings that came out: Pulley bearings were a bit dry and > contaminated, but were not in bad shape. I might almost consider > re-using them. The spindle bearings were mostly toast, though. > One upper and one lower bearing were almost OK, but a bit rough when > I spun them. The other two were really bad, inner races spalled and > even the balls badly marked up. This then was the source of all that > noise. I suspect the machine was run without proper lube for some time, > and the chips in the lower bearings would not help things either. > > I have a line on some ABEC 7 bearings but also have purchased 5's > as well, for only $16 each. I plan on using ABEC 1 grade for the > upper spindle bearings and the pulley bearings. If they die > at least I will know how to disassemble it quickly to change them. > I have seen angular contact pairs in MSC for 185 dollars per pair, > but I doubt that Bridgeport put bearings in these that were that good. > The manual parts list just shows "Bearing, SAE 205" as the part. > Quantity of four. But interestingly enough the bearings show signs > that they might have been fitted to the quill - the faces are kissed > off with a surface grinder. > > The lower bearing pair seem to be run in opposition to take the > thrust loads. The outer races (spacer in between) are captive in > the quill with an end cap compressing the assembly. Likewise the > inner races are constrained with another spacer on the spindle. > I suspect that varying the relative lengths of the id/od spacer > pairs sets the preload. I will have to get this right during > reassembly or the new ones will be ruined quickly. > > The upper bearings cannot take thrust loads at all, as the outer > races are constrained neither above nor below in the quill bore - > they are designed to "float," probably to account for thermal > expansion of the spindle during use. > > Well that's all for now, wish me luck. > > Jim > > -----------== Posted via Deja News, The Discussion Network ==---------- > http://www.dejanews.com/ Search, Read, Discuss, or Start Your Own ======== Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking Subject: Re: Off Topic: Killing Rats From: Robert Bastow Date: Wed, 13 Jan 1999 07:23:43 GMT -------- My alltime favorite "Far Side" cartoon Momma dog and Poppa dog are answering the door to visiting relatives. Junior dog is hanging back. "Don't be rude Junior" says momma "Go sniff your Auntie's butt!" Robert Bastow ======== Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking Subject: Re: Help removing studs From: Robert Bastow Date: Wed, 13 Jan 1999 15:11:04 GMT -------- Good point Bill, I recall that we ALWAYS replaced studs after taking them out! Depending on the application I would imagine that replacement is a cheap insurance of peace of mind. Robert Bastow Bill Machrone wrote: > > Since he wants to do stress analysis on the studs, don't all of these > extraction techniques stress the studs more than they probably were > while in service? > > - Bill > > Robert Bastow wrote: > > > > Here's how we used to remove studs from steam turbine casings..some of them up > > to 6" diameter. > > > > If they are true studs, that is they have a plane cylindrical section between > > the two theaded ends your job is somewhat easier. > > > > Take a large block of steel (we used bronze as it is less likely to put stress > > rising marks on the studs..Yer pays yer money and yer takes yer choice) Bore a > > CLOSE fitting hole through its center (cut a thread to match the stud if it is > > allthread) Split the block lengthways. Drill holes and fit at least four BIG > > clamping bolts and nuts (six or eight is better. > > > > Dust the bore surfaces with powdered resin and clamp the two block halves > > TIGHTLY onto the stud. Use a "hammer wrench" to start the stud moving. (A > > hammer wrench is a short wrench with a heavy pad on the end of the handle > > designed to be hit with a hammer. Ours were flame cut from six inch boiler > > plate, slung from the crane and hit with a 32 pound sledge hammer by the biggest > > guy in the shop) > > > > Robert Bastow > > > > It is not just knowing that it needs to be hit with a hammer...But WHERE and how > > HARD!! > > > > Stan Stocker wrote: > > > > > > Can you get two nuts that match the stud threads? Run one down as far as > > > you can, run the second one down and tighten, then use a wrench on the > > > lower nut. It might actually require more than two nuts to get sufficient > > > clamping pressure on the threads, but this usually works. I must admit > > > though that 3/4 inch studs are about the biggest I've pulled this way, and > > > they sure were not 4 foot long! > > > > > > Stan. > > > > > > John Lynch wrote: > > > > > > > I've been given the task of finding an easy to remove some very long > > > > engine studs. Any one have some ideas? Here is what I'm dealing with - > > > > > > > > The engine - Fairbanks Morse V16 > > > > The head studs - Roughly 1 1/2" dia 4 feet long > > > > > > > > The reason for removel is to have the studs tested for fatigue. > > > > > > > > Thanks - John (john@erie.net) ======== Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking Subject: Re: Bearings was - Mysteries Revealed (B'port M head) From: Robert Bastow Date: Wed, 13 Jan 1999 15:16:58 GMT -------- Good point Brad. But consider that the MAXIMUM runout difference between ABEC 5 and ABEC7 is, according to your numbers 0.00005"...50 MILLIONTHS!!! On the other hand the cost difference is of an order of magnitude! What do Bridgeport fit to new machines? Robert Bastow Brad Heuver wrote: > > On Wed, 13 Jan 1999 07:16:32 GMT, Robert Bastow > wrote: > > >Save some money Jim, I very much doubt that ABEC 7 bearings would be justified > >ANYWHERE on a Bridgeport. They are designed for highly critical, usually high > >speed applications such as small hole grinders etc. I doubt that, under > >workshop conditions, one could maintain the cleanliness and the lubrication > >system required to keep them running for long. > > > >FWIW > > > >Robert Bastow > > > ****Robert, I have to take exception here. One thing the ABEC bearing > class indicates is radial runnout of the bearing. For the spindle > bearings in particular, you want this to be as small as possible. > Remember the thread on collets VS end mill holders? Well with a few > ten thousandths of runnout on the spindle, that all becomes a moot > point. From the Torrington service catalog, using a bearing with a > bore over 30mm, but under 50mm here are the radial runnouts of the > inner raceway with the outer held for the various bearing classes: > Class 1 = 0.0006" > Class 3 =0.0004" > Class 5 =0.0002" > Class 7 =0.00015" > Class 9 =0.0001" > Axial runnout is affected by class as well: > Class 5 = 0.0003" > Class 7 = 0.00015" > Class 9 = 0.0001" > As can be seen, if you are providing a bearing for a pulley to ride > on, use whatever you want, but for a spindle, you want the high class > bearings that will provide the accuracy the machine is capable of. > This applies to the bearings used for the other thread on the HSM > toolpost grinder as well. By using standard bearings, you will be > introducing a greater runnout of the wheel, and a source of chatter > into the work, vs a better class of brg. I'd go with sealed bearings > for that grinder as well, as the shielded are not made for that > environment, and will only keep large items out. > Brad > > >mulligan@advinc.com wrote: > >> > >> For those who care, here's an update: > >> > >> I am in the middle of a doing the spindle bearings on an M head. > >> When I got the machine, it was pretty noisy, indeed it howled a > >> *lot* on the highest speed. > >> > >> With the idea in mind of at least inspecting the spindle bearings, > >> I dismantled it completely. It is now down to (as my wife says) > >> "individual Bridgeport molecules." > >> > >> The disassembly was easier than I thought. These things are built > >> like a puzzle - the bearings are as far "in" as you can go, so > >> everthing has to come apart to get at them. The hardest part > >> was making some special pin wrenches to remove the nuts that secure > >> the bearings' inner races to the spindle. The small press at > >> work was helpful but not essential. (thanks, Roger!) > >> > >> After looking at all the pieces, I now understand how the oiling > >> on this head is done. There is one large oil cup at the top, which > >> feeds a gallery machined into the upper aluminum castings, to deliver > >> oil to the very top of the pulley bearings. The cup is situated > >> slightly above the uppermost bearing, ensuring correct flow. > >> There is a wick in the cup which sets the flow rate. > >> From there the oil drips into the top of the opening in the quill, > >> which is nicely chamfered to help the drips to make it inside. > >> The upper bearings in the quill get the flow first, and then from > >> there gravity sends the oil to the lower bearings. It drips out > >> the two holes in the bottom of the nosepiece in a total loss > >> system. > >> > >> There are no seals or sheilds on these bearings, and there is no > >> seal at the bottom other than a sort of labyrinth which might stop > >> some junk from being blown back up. I might consider a felt washer > >> here during reassembly. > >> > >> The bearings that came out: Pulley bearings were a bit dry and > >> contaminated, but were not in bad shape. I might almost consider > >> re-using them. The spindle bearings were mostly toast, though. > >> One upper and one lower bearing were almost OK, but a bit rough when > >> I spun them. The other two were really bad, inner races spalled and > >> even the balls badly marked up. This then was the source of all that > >> noise. I suspect the machine was run without proper lube for some time, > >> and the chips in the lower bearings would not help things either. > >> > >> I have a line on some ABEC 7 bearings but also have purchased 5's > >> as well, for only $16 each. I plan on using ABEC 1 grade for the > >> upper spindle bearings and the pulley bearings. If they die > >> at least I will know how to disassemble it quickly to change them. > >> I have seen angular contact pairs in MSC for 185 dollars per pair, > >> but I doubt that Bridgeport put bearings in these that were that good. > >> The manual parts list just shows "Bearing, SAE 205" as the part. > >> Quantity of four. But interestingly enough the bearings show signs > >> that they might have been fitted to the quill - the faces are kissed > >> off with a surface grinder. > >> > >> The lower bearing pair seem to be run in opposition to take the > >> thrust loads. The outer races (spacer in between) are captive in > >> the quill with an end cap compressing the assembly. Likewise the > >> inner races are constrained with another spacer on the spindle. > >> I suspect that varying the relative lengths of the id/od spacer > >> pairs sets the preload. I will have to get this right during > >> reassembly or the new ones will be ruined quickly. > >> > >> The upper bearings cannot take thrust loads at all, as the outer > >> races are constrained neither above nor below in the quill bore - > >> they are designed to "float," probably to account for thermal > >> expansion of the spindle during use. > >> > >> Well that's all for now, wish me luck. > >> > >> Jim > >> > >> -----------== Posted via Deja News, The Discussion Network ==---------- > >> http://www.dejanews.com/ Search, Read, Discuss, or Start Your Own > > -- > Brad Heuver ======== Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking Subject: Re: Wanted: Bridgeport mill spindle cartridge From: Robert Bastow Date: Thu, 14 Jan 1999 00:27:12 GMT -------- Tell it to mail in its own requests!! ;^) Dennis E. Maiden wrote: > > I have a Bridgeport mill that needs a spindle cartridge, ie., > spindle, 3 bearings, spacers, and screwon collar. ======== Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking Subject: Re: REALLY Dumb Question..... From: Robert Bastow Date: Thu, 14 Jan 1999 06:14:54 GMT -------- This what is Known as a "Boring and Facing Head" Some of the real sophisticated (read..Expensive) examples of the breed can be set up to cut a specific taper in a bore. Robert Bastow (DoN. Nichols) wrote: > There was a knurled ring which you could > >grasp while it was turning, and once, twice, or three times per revolution > >(depending on some mechanical switches on it), it would step the toolholder > >out to the side, This feature was used in facing a hole, and is probably no > >longer needed in machines with CNC capabilities, but was rather neat back > >then. ======== Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking Subject: Re: Reducing shaft length of reamers From: Robert Bastow Date: Thu, 14 Jan 1999 18:32:08 GMT -------- When cutting sheet metal, or any other job where jamming and shattering of the disc becomes a pain, I use two discs on the same arbor. Cutting speed is just as fast because you can "bear down" a lot harder. Time and cost saved because of less breakage is an order of magnitude. Does anyone market a stronger, more flexible disc suitable for use on a Dremel? Robert Bastow Jack Erbes wrote: > The cutting disks are fragile (especially the #409) and will shatter if > you cock or bind them in the groove. Don't even consider trying it > without eye protection. > > -- > Jack in Sonoma, CA, USA (jack@vom.com) ======== Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking Subject: Re: Lathe setup and precision levels From: Robert Bastow Date: Thu, 14 Jan 1999 18:40:01 GMT -------- Yes, you were lucky...but you created your own luck! You followed proven procedures without trying to re-invent the wheel, as so many on this list try to do! Steve Cranage wrote: > > I've been looking for a precision level for some time at a good price so I > could keep my Logan/Powermatic 12x36 properly setup without having to keep > borrowing one. Last night I moved the lathe, and decided to use my regular > machinist level (no graduations, just a centerline) to get it roughly set, > then do the trick in the Southbend book to turn 2 collars a few inches > apart, check dia, adjust level and recut, recheck, etc. > > I expected this to be a long, torturous process. Imagine my surprise when > the first cut showed the *exact* same diameter on two ~1 1/2 collars 6" > apart measured with a .0001 mic. This after only eyeballing the bubble > around the centerline at the headstock and tailstock ends. So what do I need > a $400 level for? Was I just unbelievably lucky? I thought about messing up > the levelers and seeing if I could repeat the process, but who wants to mess > with perfection. > > -- > Steve Cranage > Colorado Springs, Colorado ======== Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking Subject: Re: UK: diff between "slot drill" and "end mill"? From: Robert Bastow Date: Thu, 14 Jan 1999 20:16:43 GMT -------- Excellent discription John. One major point is that a two or four flute cutter will cut closer to dead size than a three flute simply because the opposing edges are "in the cut" at the same time and thus balance each other. Robert Bastow John stevenson wrote: > > On 14 Jan 1999 01:34:47 -0500, amb@bronze.lcs.mit.edu (andrew m. boardman) > wrote: > > > > >I (resident of the US) am looking at a UK tooling catalog, and trying to > >figure out the difference between what they call an "end mill" and what > >they call a "slot drill". Anyone have the answer? They seem, so far as > >we can tell, the same... > > > >(I'm looking at UK tooling catalogs (the J&L UK catalog, actually) > >because I need some metric-shanked tooling that no one that I can find in > >the US carries. The funny thing is, though, mail order from J&L in the > >UK is about as cheap as buying over-the-counter from J&L or MSC locally. > >Go figure...) > > > >andrew > > The difference between Slot drills and end mills was forged in the past. > due to newer manufacturing technologies these terms now overlap. > > At one time you had slot drills [ ALWAYS 2 flute ] and End mills [ Usually 4 > flute but going up in number according to size ] > Because slot drills were ground with one flute over centre they could plunge > down and the traverse sideways to cut something like a keyway. > End mills couldn't do this because they had a relieved portion in the centre > that would leave a pip on the work and break the cutter when you tried to > traverse it. End mills were made for attacking work from off the job into a > traversing cut. A slot mill could do all that an endmill could do but nor visa > versa although an end mill with more cutting edges was better at stock removal. > > Now with better technology and grinding techniques you can get 3 flute centre > cutting slot drills and 3 flute centre cutting end mills. Both one and the same > animal. > Suppliers don't help either as their catologues describe these tools in any > haphazard manner. > Suffice to say we won't go back to the old ways so the main thing to look out > for is whether the tool is centre cutting. Looking at my latest J & L book it > seems that almost all the mills or slot drills are centre cutting so the old > term of end mill that had the relieved portion has died a death. > > I for one am pleased as it always seemed that the only sharp cutter left that I > needed for an overnight keyway job was an endmill. Now with centre cutting I can > use anything. > - > Regards, > > John Stevenson at > > engineers@btinternet.com > > Nottingham, England. ======== Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking Subject: Re: Need engraving done!!!(can you spell ENTRAPMENT?) From: Robert Bastow Date: Thu, 14 Jan 1999 20:19:26 GMT -------- ======== Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking Subject: Re: Need engraving done!!!(can you spell ENTRAPMENT?) From: Robert Bastow Date: Thu, 14 Jan 1999 20:23:30 GMT -------- I (unfortunately) am personally aquainted with one ATF agent..Meanest Daughter-of-a-Bitch you could ever wish to meet!! To hear her gloating over the way they entrap and obfuscate people is sickening. Robert Bastow Sorry about the last post..my trigger finger twitched!! Gunfreak wrote: > > Basically, if the BATF "wants > your ass", this is one way they can get you. Chances are they'd lose in court, > but who has the money to fight the government? > > Mark Serbu ======== Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking Subject: Re: Lathe setup and precision levels From: Robert Bastow Date: Thu, 14 Jan 1999 21:04:15 GMT -------- Steve Cranage wrote: And this is the whole point!! Not many people do have this item!! Let us not forget the objective..Which is to have a machine that produces accurate parts. The manufacturer's instructions are designed so that ordinary mortals can get their machine set up properly and quickly. Steve has achieved that!! What else matters?? Robert Bastow > Sure, but I don't happen to have a precisely ground, perfectly centered bar > of sufficient diameter, although I've always got an eye open for one if it > comes along. > > > > >Kevin > > > > ======== Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking Subject: Re: what are these Mic's worth? From: Robert Bastow Date: Fri, 15 Jan 1999 00:09:52 GMT -------- Didn't I mention that? Sorry! Peter Drumm wrote: > > Don't you need a monochromatic light source to use optical flats? > ======== Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking Subject: Re: UK: diff between "slot drill" and "end mill"? From: Robert Bastow Date: Fri, 15 Jan 1999 00:13:48 GMT -------- Pedantics apart...In the UK "slot drill" refers specifically to a two flute,end cutting mill. Robert Bastow wrote: > > Excellent discription John. > > One major point is that a two or four flute cutter will cut closer to dead size > than a three flute simply because the opposing edges are "in the cut" at the > same time and thus balance each other. > > Robert Bastow > > John stevenson wrote: > > > > On 14 Jan 1999 01:34:47 -0500, amb@bronze.lcs.mit.edu (andrew m. boardman) > > wrote: > > > > > > > >I (resident of the US) am looking at a UK tooling catalog, and trying to > > >figure out the difference between what they call an "end mill" and what > > >they call a "slot drill". Anyone have the answer? They seem, so far as > > >we can tell, the same... > > > > > >(I'm looking at UK tooling catalogs (the J&L UK catalog, actually) > > >because I need some metric-shanked tooling that no one that I can find in > > >the US carries. The funny thing is, though, mail order from J&L in the > > >UK is about as cheap as buying over-the-counter from J&L or MSC locally. > > >Go figure...) > > > > > >andrew > > > > The difference between Slot drills and end mills was forged in the past. > > due to newer manufacturing technologies these terms now overlap. > > > > At one time you had slot drills [ ALWAYS 2 flute ] and End mills [ Usually 4 > > flute but going up in number according to size ] > > Because slot drills were ground with one flute over centre they could plunge > > down and the traverse sideways to cut something like a keyway. > > End mills couldn't do this because they had a relieved portion in the centre > > that would leave a pip on the work and break the cutter when you tried to > > traverse it. End mills were made for attacking work from off the job into a > > traversing cut. A slot mill could do all that an endmill could do but nor visa > > versa although an end mill with more cutting edges was better at stock removal. > > > > Now with better technology and grinding techniques you can get 3 flute centre > > cutting slot drills and 3 flute centre cutting end mills. Both one and the same > > animal. > > Suppliers don't help either as their catologues describe these tools in any > > haphazard manner. > > Suffice to say we won't go back to the old ways so the main thing to look out > > for is whether the tool is centre cutting. Looking at my latest J & L book it > > seems that almost all the mills or slot drills are centre cutting so the old > > term of end mill that had the relieved portion has died a death. > > > > I for one am pleased as it always seemed that the only sharp cutter left that I > > needed for an overnight keyway job was an endmill. Now with centre cutting I can > > use anything. > > - > > Regards, > > > > John Stevenson at > > > > engineers@btinternet.com > > > > Nottingham, England. ======== Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking Subject: Re: Morse Taper does not like its home From: Robert Bastow Date: Fri, 15 Jan 1999 02:48:27 GMT -------- I too, have a Delta drill press...worst POS I ever spent hard earned money on. Had the same problem with the spindle taper too. Had to WHOMP it into place good and solid, with a deadblow mallet, before it would behave itself. Tig sounds like a GOOD IDEA!! I don't have one so maybe if I cut the tang off the chuck arbor and just FRICTION WELD the sucker in place! Robert Bastow CROQ wrote: I have a Delta 16.5" drill press > with a Morse Taper. Every time I am about to finish drilling through a > piece of metal, the bit bites into the last .004" or so, and pulls the bit, > chuck, and Morse Taper out of the "head stock" ======== Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking Subject: Re: what are these Mic's worth? From: Robert Bastow Date: Fri, 15 Jan 1999 03:46:17 GMT -------- Next time someone asks a question about mics I'm gonna defer to THIS fella!! Robert Bastow...who knows enough to be dangerous!! Bob Ranck wrote: > > Don, > You, Fitch and the others raise a lot of very valid points. But now I must > weigh in on this one. > > My credentials: I am tool & Gage Supervisor in a LARGE machine shop. > > I supervise Calibration and maintain over 5300 pieces of measuring and test > equipment, just in this one plant. We have nearly 450 comopany-owned OD > micrometers alone in this machine shop - Brown&Sharpes, Lufkins, Scherr-Tumico, > Mitutoyo, Starrett, and Craftsman primarily, and I won't even begin to hazard a > guess at the value (the largest ones go to 70 inches, $1400.00 per copy) but we > also have a lot of the individual operators who have brought their own personal > mics into the system, too. We calibrate EVERY ONE of these on a monthly > schedule. > > It is my exerience that , being first of all in good repair, being cleaned and > recalibrated monthly, and having been of good manufacture to begin with, there > is little PRACTICAL differencein the equipment. Added to this, there are many > Chinese and Japanese "knock-offs" in our system that, with the same care, will > produce equal result. When the ganefs were stealing all my new 0-1" > Brown&Sharpe and Starretts , I bought a dozen of the $12.95 0-1's from somebody, > Westport, MRO, Penn Tool, I'm not sure, They are a Chinese copy of the Mit's > with the BIG scales on the sides, read to tenths, also. And they ARE just as > reasonable and just as accurate and repeatable and reliable as the > aforementioned high-dollar-herd. > > But the single differentiating factor is (you guessed it) THE USER ! We have > some real craftsmen, genuine *machinists*, who will make accurate measurement > with any and all mics. Then, there are the "second-tier" individuals who > somehow, always manage to just get the part within sped - barely- unless the mic > has STARRETT on it. I don't know, just some sort of ego problem, a confidence > factor, who knows? Personally, I find an esthetic appeal it each different one. > > Anyway, that's why GR&R is divided into GAGE REPEATABILITY (the equipment > factor) and GAGE REPRODUCIBILITY ( the operator factor). > > We actually calibrate over 1,000 mics, (ID, OD, & depth) evry month, not to > mention about 150 lbs. of calipers, 80 lbs of small snap-gages, etc, ad > infitum, nauseamque. > > Bob Ranck > > In article <77gteg$ijh@izalco.d-and-d.com>, dnichols@d-and-d.com says... > > > >In article <369ac5ea.7391293@news.newsguy.com>, > >Fitch R. Williams wrote: > >>jeffpa@microsoft.com (Jeff Pack) wrote: > >> > >>> > >>>a set of OD mic's 0-1, 0-2, 0-3, 0-4, 0-5, 0-6, > >>>with 2, 3, 4, 5, 6 in standards. > >>> > >>>In wood case, by Lufkin. > >>> > >>>In good shape, this guy wants 400$, seems high, comments? > >> > >>I have a set of Ratchet Lufkin mics up to 3". I was given them by my > >| Donald Nichols (DoN.)|Voice (703) 938-4564 > > ======== Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking Subject: Re: Morse Taper does not like its home From: Robert Bastow Date: Fri, 15 Jan 1999 03:49:44 GMT -------- I would do all the things John suggests and THEN weld the POS in place!! John Hofstad-Parkhill wrote: > > >Morse Taper out of the "head stock" > > Quill. > > The morse taper is not the problem, it will hold things quite securely, > sometimes almost too securely. > > First things first. > > * Make sure both the quill and arbor tapers are clean > * Check the quill taper for burrs, check the arbor for burrs. > > After that, I'd consider trying a new or different arbor (because it's not > expensive to do so). > Then I'd get a 2MT finishing reamer and clean out the quill. > > Welding is rather permanant, you might get a tapping head for instance. ======== Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking Subject: Re: Seeking an opinion From: Robert Bastow Date: Fri, 15 Jan 1999 06:22:04 GMT -------- My gut feeling is that it won't. Just be sure to drill and tap all the holes to the same depth. Let me know how you make out with the new blades..I have been contemplating the use of them on my 8" Powermatic Jointer. Robert Bastow Jim Levie wrote: Assuming the holes (probably for 8-32 screws and about 3/8 deep) were drilled with a mill > to the same depth, would it be reasonable to expect the procedure to > not upset the cutterhead balance at operating speed (about 5000rpm)? > My gut feeling is that it wouldn't, but I'd like a more informed > opinion. > > Thanks... ======== Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking Subject: Re: Tudor Cannons Forging Techniques From: Robert Bastow Date: Fri, 15 Jan 1999 16:16:39 GMT -------- Gregory Stapleton wrote: > > On Fri, 08 Jan 1999 18:00:04 GMT, Robert Bastow > wrote: > > >Hi Chris, > > > >You are to be commended for such an undertaking..Quite a task!! > > > >So far as the swivel gun is concerned there is only one possible method that > >comes to mind that would not involve forge welding..either logitudinally or > >spiral welding' > > > >This is to forge from a solid billet in the way that much later (and modern) > >gunmakers did it. > > > > Greetings! > I was under the opinion that most such pieces as this were cast in > period. I contacted some friends regarding the forging of such > cannons and this is the reply I received. Hope it helps to shed some > light. > > Gregory Stapleton > =================== The inescapable fact remains Gregory, that the gun Chris wants to reproduce WAS forged!! IIRC the guns on Mary Rose were "Faggot Built"...Longitudinal staves of iron bound with iron rings. The ability to cast iron into cannons did not come until much later. Robert Bastow ======== Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking Subject: Re: Help! LeBlonde 13" (older) From: Robert Bastow Date: Fri, 15 Jan 1999 20:28:01 GMT -------- Ivan Vegvary wrote: Do I have the spindle built up and ground > back down to size? Can I rebore the tailstock to an oversize by using a > boring head in my headstock and somehow rigging a feedscrew (maybe a > automotive screjack) behind my tailstock? Have the T/s spindle hard chrome plated and ground oversize. To bore the T/S : Mount the tailstock inboard..ie. between the Headstock and the carriage. Make a long boring bar that will pass from the Headstock, through the Tailstock and pass through a guide bushing mounted on the tool post. You can drill and bore this bushing in situ before moving the T/S Lightly clamp the T/S to the bed, fire up the lathe and engage power feed on the carriage..Towards the headstock. The carriage will push the T/S along and over the boring bit. Robert Bastow ======== Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking Subject: Re: Uses for precision hose level From: Robert Bastow Date: Fri, 15 Jan 1999 21:18:18 GMT -------- Papermills, steelmills, shipyards all come to mind! How does it work? Robert Bastow lehmann@thinkerf.com wrote: > > Hello, > > I have developed a precision version of the carpenter's hose level. In > controlled conditions, it is accurate within +/- 0.001 inches. On the plant > floor +/- 0.005 inch is easy. This degree of accuracy is comparable to laser > alignment systems (much better than contractors' laser levels), but for much > less money. > > I developed this instrument for aligning sawmill equipment, and have used a > prototype sucessfully for 2 years. To expand the market, I am looking for > other industries that need to level large equipment. I would appreciate any > suggestions. > > TIA > Bruce Lehmann > Thin Kerf Technologies www.thinkerf.com > > -----------== Posted via Deja News, The Discussion Network ==---------- > http://www.dejanews.com/ Search, Read, Discuss, or Start Your Own ======== Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking Subject: Re: density From: Robert Bastow Date: Sat, 16 Jan 1999 00:21:29 GMT -------- I learned to pronounce schedule when I went to Shool!! > Schedule, pronounced shed-yule. > > Mike Graham mike at headwaters dot com > > Mangler of metal. User of many grinding disks. > Cut with an axe, beat to fit, paint to match. ======== Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking Subject: Re: Spring steel source? From: Robert Bastow Date: Sat, 16 Jan 1999 09:27:00 GMT -------- Hi Ron, I know OCS (Old Chevey Spring) makes great knife blades...But it would make hellacious corset stays (Refer to original post) Robert Bastow Ron Reil wrote: > > Well, I read all the other replies, and I think you may need something else, > but I don't know what your metal working abilities are, so here is a source. > > Almost every fair sized town has a spring shop. These guys get spring steel, > both flat and coil, in bulk and work it into the final spring required. If > you will visit your nearest spring shop you can often get the "drops" for > free. You will have to work them into the shape you need, but for a > blacksmith that is a piece of cake. If you are limited to machining > techniques you may have a problem. > > Ron > > Golden Age Forge and Foundry > E-Mail: rreil@micron.net > http://www.webpak.net/~rreil > Boise, Idaho, USA > > > > > vance burnham wrote in message <369F2C26.E157EBA7@worldnet.att.net>... > >Hello, > > > >I'm looking for a supplier of flat spring steel stock ~1-2mm X 3-19 mm. > > > >My wife restores and makes museum quality antique dresses and needs this > >for hoops and bones se we need pounds not metric tons. > > > >Respectfully, > >Vance S. Burnham > >Zoar Research & Development > >440 Zoar Road > >Charlemont MA 01339 > > > > > >-- > >Remove the 333 from the email address (Hopefully foils Spammers) > > > > Ron Reil wrote: > > Well, I read all the other replies, and I think you may need something else, > but I don't know what your metal working abilities are, so here is a source. > > Almost every fair sized town has a spring shop. These guys get spring steel, > both flat and coil, in bulk and work it into the final spring required. If > you will visit your nearest spring shop you can often get the "drops" for > free. You will have to work them into the shape you need, but for a > blacksmith that is a piece of cake. If you are limited to machining > techniques you may have a problem. > > Ron > > Golden Age Forge and Foundry > E-Mail: rreil@micron.net > http://www.webpak.net/~rreil > Boise, Idaho, USA > > > > > vance burnham wrote in message <369F2C26.E157EBA7@worldnet.att.net>... > >Hello, > > > >I'm looking for a supplier of flat spring steel stock ~1-2mm X 3-19 mm. > > > >My wife restores and makes museum quality antique dresses and needs this > >for hoops and bones se we need pounds not metric tons. > > > >Respectfully, > >Vance S. Burnham > >Zoar Research & Development > >440 Zoar Road > >Charlemont MA 01339 > > > > > >-- > >Remove the 333 from the email address (Hopefully foils Spammers) > > > > ======== Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking Subject: Re: Got the B-port, how to setup?? From: Robert Bastow Date: Sat, 16 Jan 1999 09:34:20 GMT -------- As I stated (in another thread recently) Hood machine tool designers always try to arrange things so the as wear inevitably takes place the machine will tend first to get even MORE accurate...before it starts to deteriorate. Bridgeport (and others) are also allowing for the fact that, before even the first cut is taken on a new machine, the table will likely be loaded with hundred pounds plus, of vise and job. Remember that NOTHING (least of all cast iron milling machines) is perfectly rigid. Robert Bastow mulligan@advinc.com wrote: > > In article <77o3ja$226$1@news-2.news.gte.net>, > "Kathy and Erich Coiner" wrote: > > Snip a bunch of good suggestions > > > I would do this adjustments with the knee lock loose. You don't want to have > > to lock the knee on every cut to assure squareness. > > Does this imply that if one trams the head with the knee loose, > and then happens to tighten the lock, that things will be out by > several thousanths? > > I also was suprised to read in the Bridgeport manual I have that > the saddle ways are (or were when that book was produced) fabricated > so they tilt from front to back, the front being about 0.005 high. > > Jim > > -----------== Posted via Deja News, The Discussion Network ==---------- > http://www.dejanews.com/ Search, Read, Discuss, or Start Your Own ======== Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking Subject: Re: looking for info. From: Robert Bastow Date: Sun, 17 Jan 1999 06:01:14 GMT -------- Robert Grauman wrote: > > >There is a modelmaking group that you subscribe to (free) that may be > >interesting to you. This how you access it according to Scott Logan: > > Very little of consequence on the Model Engineering mail list. Most > discussion revolves around English breakfast cereal, or some equally trivial > and unrelated subject. Yeh? Like killing rats and lawyers? Lighten up Grauman! Robert Bastow > > Robert Grauman in Sunny Alberta ======== Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking Subject: Re: Darts What Material? From: Robert Bastow Date: Sun, 17 Jan 1999 17:41:40 GMT -------- Most "competition" darts are made from a tungsten/nickel alloy. I don't know the composition or where you might find it. DU would be a good substitute...easy to find on a darkened pub floor!! Robert Bastow Gunner wrote: > > I wrote a CNC lathe program to kick out a few sets of darts for my > buddys and myself. Anyone know what material most darts are made of > besides brass? I made a set from Titanium , but were way too light... > fun though..... > These are gonna be soft tip, threaded 10-32, using store bought shafts > (unless I can find some really tiny bearings to mount the flights > on.... muhahahahaha) > > Gunner > > --------------------------------------------------------- > > "A human being should be able to change a diaper, plan an > invasion, butcher a hog, conn a ship, design a building, write > a sonnet, balance accounts, build a wall, set a bone, comfort > the dying, take orders, give orders, cooperate, act alone, > solve equations, analyze a new problem, pitch manure, program > a computer, cook a tasty meal, fight efficiently, die > gallantly. Specialization is for insects." Robert Heinlein ======== Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking Subject: Re: Knock, Knock! From: Robert Bastow Date: Sun, 17 Jan 1999 19:23:29 GMT -------- You just did Jackie! Welcome Jackie Shaw wrote: > > Am interested in joining. My email is jsahw@proaxis.com ======== Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking Subject: Re: how to measure lathe center height From: Robert Bastow Date: Mon, 18 Jan 1999 17:03:08 GMT -------- This is a perfectly good way to go about it Grant. I use a ground dowel in an accurate collet. Robert Bastow Grant Erwin wrote: > > One idea is to mount a test bar of known diameter between centers, > then measure from the bottom of the test bar to the top of the > cross-slide using gage blocks or an inside micrometer. Don't > have either. I suppose I could use a 1-2-3 block and an adjustable > parallel, or just use a planer/shaper gage, either of which I > could measure with an outside micrometer. > > ======== Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking Subject: Re: how to measure lathe center height From: Robert Bastow Date: Mon, 18 Jan 1999 17:04:21 GMT -------- An even better plan!! Jhko wrote: > > Hi Grant: > > I like your idea of using a planer gage or adjustable parallels if you have > them. A height gage would ideal, but I assume you don't have one of those. By > the way, put a piece of scrap bar in the chuck. Take a light cut. Measure the > diameter with a mic. Add half the diameter to the measurement (or subtract half > if you are measuring to the top of the bar). This is better than a test bar in > the chuck, since the chuck will have some runout. Good luck. > > Joe Osborn > "A Live Steamer in Every Backyard" > > Osborn Metalworks > OMW Metalcrafts > "Quality Tools for the Home Shop Machinist" > OMW HOME PAGE: http://members.aol.com/omwmetal/omw.htm > EMail: JHKO@AOL.COM ======== Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking Subject: Re: Casting mild steel From: Robert Bastow Date: Mon, 18 Jan 1999 20:07:57 GMT -------- Here are two thick wall formulae used by ordnance designers: Birnies Equation t = D [ / s+(1-u)p ] - [ / --------- -1 ] 2 [ \/ s+(1=u)p ] Where: p = int pressure in psi D = inside dia t = wall thickness u = Poissons ratio s = allowable stress in psi Clavarino's Equation: t= D [ / s+(1-2u)p ] - [ / --------- -1] 2 [ \/ s-(1-u )p ] Clavarino's is obviously the more conservative formula. Robert Bastow Ted Edwards wrote: > Do you have a general thick wall formula? > > Ted ======== Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking Subject: Re: Casting mild steel From: Robert Bastow Date: Mon, 18 Jan 1999 20:20:46 GMT -------- Sorry. The center line of each formula seems to have shifted one space to the left in transmission...I should read D/2(root).... see if this works Robert Bastow wrote: > > Here are two thick wall formulae used by ordnance designers: > > Birnies Equation > > t = D [ / s+(1-u)p ] > - [ / --------- -1 ] > 2 [ \/ s+(1=u)p ] > > Where: p = int pressure in psi > D = inside dia > t = wall thickness > u = Poissons ratio > s = allowable stress in psi > > Clavarino's Equation: > > t= D [ / s+(1-2u)p ] > - [ / --------- -1] > 2 [ \/ s-(1-u )p ] > > Clavarino's is obviously the more conservative formula. > > Robert Bastow > > Ted Edwards wrote: > > > Do you have a general thick wall formula? > > > > Ted ======== Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking Subject: Re: Casting mild steel From: Robert Bastow Date: Mon, 18 Jan 1999 20:22:44 GMT -------- Robert Bastow wrote: > > Sorry. The center line of each formula seems to have shifted one space to the > left in transmission...I should read D/2(root).... > > see if this works > > Robert Bastow wrote: > > > > Here are two thick wall formulae used by ordnance designers: > > > > Birnies Equation > > > > t = D [ / s+(1-u)p ] > > - [ / --------- -1 ] > > 2 [ \/ s+(1=u)p ] > > > > Where: p = int pressure in psi > > D = inside dia > > t = wall thickness > > u = Poissons ratio > > s = allowable stress in psi > > > > Clavarino's Equation: > > > > t= D [ / s+(1-2u)p ] > > - [ / --------- -1] > > 2 [ \/ s-(1-u )p ] > > > > Clavarino's is obviously the more conservative formula. > > > > Robert Bastow > > > > Ted Edwards wrote: > > > > > Do you have a general thick wall formula? > > > > > > Ted ======== Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking Subject: Re: Tudor Cannons Forging Techniques From: Robert Bastow Date: Tue, 19 Jan 1999 01:31:39 GMT -------- Indeed it could be and was. The preferred method of forming gun barrels was by forging and welding..bores were left as forged. The problem our friend has, is that according to X-rays etc., the barrel he wishes to duplicate was NOT welded! It sure as heck wasn't cast..Ergo it must have been forged from the solid. I AM curious as to why we haven't heard from him since..not so much as a thank you, by your leave, or kiss my ass!! Robert Bastow dave pierson wrote: > > Educational TV. > History Channel, USA, Cable. > Four show sequence, entitled Arms in Action > Based on (produced by?) Royal Armoury collection in UK. > The 'Guns' segment showed (parts of) the forging of a 'handgun' from the > dawn of powder weapons, be a recerator. Hammer falt a piece about 1/2". > Hammer to a tube, over a mandrel ("the trick is not to get the mandrel stuck"). > True the bore. (i missed this. i Assume an abrasive job? Or reaming?) > It was not verbalized, but i infer the seam was 'hammer welded'. > Such guns were unreliable, tending to make the transition from 'gun' to > 'greanade' with no warning.... > > Not clear to me if this could be scaled to a 2" bore... > > thanks > dave pierson |the facts, as accurately as i can manage, > Compaq Computer Corporation |the opinions, my own. > 334 South St | > Shrewsbury, Mass USA pierson@gone.enet.dec.com > "He has read everything, and, to his credit, written nothing." A J Raffles > "....the net of a million lies...." Vernor Vinge ======== Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking Subject: Re: please take this machine !!!! From: Robert Bastow Date: Tue, 19 Jan 1999 01:47:03 GMT -------- This has GOT to be an early contender for best written troll of 1999 Robert Bastow ======== Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking Subject: Re: Metal for bookbinding From: Robert Bastow Date: Tue, 19 Jan 1999 05:40:25 GMT -------- This one ought to keep the list going for about three years!!! Who's going to ask the first question? Welcome Arlene...You have NO idea what you just started!! ;^) Robert Bastow Arlene Radbourne wrote: > > I am interested in trying to make my own books > with metal covers. > > Can anyone direct me to a source for > what to use? > how to cut the metal? > where to get supplies? > etc, any help would be appreciated. > > Thanks > Arlene Radbourne ======== To: oz@hex.net Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking Subject: Re: Source for Small Quantity of Dowel pins? From: Robert Bastow Date: Tue, 19 Jan 1999 05:43:35 GMT -------- Contact me off line with your snail mail and I"ll send you one. How rough should I grind it? ;^) Robert "Share the Wealth" Bastow Rich Osman wrote: > > I need a (one each, uno, eins, ichi) roughly 1-1/2" X 1/2" ground steel > dowel pin (I need to make a more precise measurement.) MSC and Travers > Tool are happy to sell me a bag of 100, but I just need one. Any idea > where to look? > > -- > Oz@hex.net Rich Osman +1 972-879-2301 (Pager) > POB 93167; Southlake, TX 76092 (Near DFW Airport) ARS: WB0HUQ ======== Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking Subject: Re: CUTTING OIL From: Robert Bastow Date: Fri, 22 Jan 1999 00:54:54 GMT -------- While we are on the subject of missing things..It is my experience that any oil grease or fat with an organic base does eventually go "bad". Cuts and scrapes are an integral part of the machinist's life,,Sepsis and gangrene should not be!! Robert Bastow Bob & Marilyn Tonkins wrote: > > Jonathan, > I sympathize with your disgust over "the good old days." However, there is ONE > basic consiseration you may not have thought about that makes this old system of > animal fats work BETTER than the "superior" cutting oils. ======== Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking Subject: Re: Dividing Head/Errors in message From: Robert Bastow Date: Fri, 22 Jan 1999 21:09:56 GMT -------- Damndest thing I EVER heard of!! Robert Bastow Geoffrey.Walsh@ed.ac.uk wrote: > Brown & Sharpe Dividing Head. > > The main wheel has 75 teeth. I was initially not sure if there were 74 or 75 > or 76. Now I have done it several times and get it to 75. > > So 75 turns of the worm gives one full rotation. The plate for the worm has > 20 holes so each hole represents 1/1500 of a circle. This is of course not a > degree or any easy fraction of a radian . > > There is an angular unit called a grade ( = 0.9 degrees). The subdivision does > not fit with that. either. > The main wheel has circles with the following number of holes > > 18, 20, 22, 24, 26 & 28. > > The head will thus divide by the following prime numbers 2, 3, 5 ,7 ,11 & 13. > > I dont know about the 40 teeth ! > > GW > > -----------== Posted via Deja News, The Discussion Network ==---------- > http://www.dejanews.com/ Search, Read, Discuss, or Start Your Own ======== Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking Subject: Re: I should consolidate, sorry. From: Robert Bastow Date: Sat, 23 Jan 1999 10:55:28 GMT -------- All of my 3 and 4 jaw chucks have holes tapped in the face , between the jaws. Backstops, in the form of blocks or simple setscrews can be skimmed to the required length, with the jaws removed. Parts with a non-flat back, can be securely and accurately supported by adjusting the standoff length Most larger 4 jaw chucks have tee slotted faces for this purpose. IMHO the Royal gizmos are a "royal" ripoff!...A triumph of marketing over commonsense! Robert Bastow Eastburn wrote: > > I've looked at those fancy things in MSC - needed one from time to time > trying to turn short stock. Kinda wish I had two - one just shy of the end > of my jaws (for thinish washers of custom sizes) and another allowing most > of the jaw. A set would be best - but that price seems high - but they > are ground to size. > Martin > -- > NRA LOH, NRA Life > NRA Second Amendment Task Force Charter Founder > Martin Eastburn, Barbara Eastburn > @ home on our computer oldtree@pacbell.net ======== Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking Subject: Re: PRE-FIRE SALE From: Robert Bastow Date: Sat, 23 Jan 1999 11:01:23 GMT -------- "Sorry to hear about the fire in your shop" "Shhh! It's not 'til next week"!!! Robert Bastow AZOTIC wrote: > > Hi All > > The land developers are on the prowl, several small machine > shops have had mysterious fires after refuseing to comply with > the offers of the rehabers. Their message is clear, resistance > is futile, you will sell to us. Well it looks like its time to move and > clean out the shop before we encure spontanious combustion. > Anyone know how to get put on the endangered species list. > > Available on Ebay:: > > servo table feed mod80 110vac 1phase ( item # 57588123 ) > > 5C indexer hor/vert. ( item # 57597054 ) > > Dumont Keyway broaches ( item # 57950493 ) > > Drill Chucks ( item # 57951315 ) > > 4" h.s. drill ( item # 57589285 ) > > Lathe carriage travel dial ( item # 57600466 ) > > Universal quick switch master holder ( item # 57535430 ) > > I have been collecting for 30+ years so there is a lot of tooling > that i have to sell as i pack things up for the move. Anyone needing > a specific item please e-mail me and i will see if i have it. Sorry i > do not have a list. > > Best Regards > Tom. ======== Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking Subject: Re: Centec Mill From: Robert Bastow Date: Sat, 23 Jan 1999 15:40:43 GMT -------- You are correct, the Centec is one of several small, high quality horizontal/vertical mills from England. About the size of an Atlas or Hardinge. I would love to get my hands on one! See Tony Griffiths GREAT web page..a must for any small machine tool lover: http://www.lathes.co.uk Robert Bastow Dave Ficken wrote: > > In <36A95357.7049@escape.ca> Alan Inness writes: > > > >Hi, Anyone out there have any information on a Centec 2B Vertical & > >Horizontal mill? Is it Chinese or ? any information would be welcome. > >(There is one offered for sale in my area). > >Thanks > >Al Inness. > > This goes back at least 8 years, and I'm trying to stretch my memory, > but I believe you are talking about a Brittish made machine that is a > real sweetheart of a small combination mill. > The problem is that if I'm right, it is likely already gone if you > waited for an answer to your post before looking at it. > Then again, maybe everyone else thought it was Chinese too. > > Regards, > Dave Ficken > Meridian Machinery > http://www.mermac.com ======== Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking Subject: Re: Dividing Head/Errors in message From: Robert Bastow Date: Sun, 24 Jan 1999 04:09:52 GMT -------- 90:1 is the most common for rotary tables followed by 60:1 and 120:1..in other words, rotary tables tend to be calibrated in degrees. Robert Bastow Still puzzling over the rationale of that 75:1 ??? PLAlbrecht wrote: > > >I have a 1929 B&S catalog that lists both machines and tooling and it > >lists many dividing heads but the worms are all either 40:1 or 60:1. > > I just checked my Gorton rotary table, that has 60 as well. 1 turn of handwheel > = 6 deg. I thought rotary tables were usually the same number of teeth on the > worm as dividing heads, i.e. 40. > > Pete ======== Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking Subject: Re: babbitting for idiots From: Robert Bastow Date: Sun, 24 Jan 1999 04:25:12 GMT -------- Most auto engine bearing shells have a babbit component! Babbit has a No-Lube forgiveness factor..and tends to be self healing. BTW, Lignum Vitae makes great bearings too!! Robert Bastow Larry Silkaitis wrote: > > I disagree about the speed issue. Babbitted bearings are extensively used > for steam turbines and reduction gears. I work on application with > 10,000 > RPM. One major advantage of babbitted bearings is that they do not fatigue > fail like rolling-contact bearings. In addition, babbitted bearings are > usually split and there can more easily be replaced than one-piece rolling > contact bearings. > > -- > _______ > Larry > Two Black Cats, Two Grey, One White & one White&Grey > ============ > Ron Reil wrote in message ... > >They are certainly not high speed > >bearings, and have to be used where appropriate, but in the right location > >and situation they can't be beat. ======== Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking Subject: Re: Trueing Lathe center From: Robert Bastow Date: Sun, 24 Jan 1999 18:02:46 GMT -------- Standard practice is to use a hard center in the tailstock and a SOFT center in the headstock. For critical work it is normal to skim the headstock center EVERY time you use it. Robert Bastow PLAlbrecht wrote: > > Well, I got a MT3 center from MSC a while ago, promptly filed it for later use > without checking. When I did finally need it for a job, I found it to be about > .012 out. (First I thought the electric motor armature I was trying to machine > for a toolpost grinder was bent... nope, it was the center). The giveaway that > it was ground wonky was that the MT3 section of the taper that extended past > its socket indicated true, but the point section was way out of whack. > > I haven't ground it yet (still afraid of what grinding dust will do to the > lathe) but this is commonly done for lathe centers. I just saw mention (and > illustration) of it in the Army Machine Tool Manual I have. Maybe it's in the > online version too. In my 1973 edition it's on p. 84, Fig. 75, section 72. > > Basically, it just says to set the compound at 30 degrees and grind away... > > Pete ======== Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking Subject: Re: babbitting for idiots From: Robert Bastow Date: Sun, 24 Jan 1999 19:37:02 GMT -------- Lignum Vitae is still used for ships propeller shaft bearings. Wood tends to expand and contract across the grain as moisture content varies, plus tthe fact that end grain has a far higher compressive strength..I would imagine that end grain is better. Robert Bastow Eric Taylor wrote: > > On Sun, 24 Jan 1999 04:25:12 GMT, Robert Bastow > wrote: > > ->BTW, Lignum Vitae makes great bearings too!! > -> > I read about that, but never talked to anyone who had used them. I've > been using Lignum Vitae for sliding components, but never for bearings > (yet!). What is the best grain direction to use? Is there any > difficulty due to the wood expansion-contraction, which is different > along the different axes? Anything else to keep in mind? ======== Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking Subject: Re: Trueing Lathe center From: Robert Bastow Date: Mon, 25 Jan 1999 06:31:41 GMT -------- I know what people commonly do..or more usually, advise others to do! I was telling you the CORRECT way to achieve best accuracy!! Stephen J. Rayner wrote: > > Robert Bastow wrote: > : For critical work it is normal to skim the headstock center EVERY time you use > : it. > ^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^ > > It is more common to make a register mark on the spindle nose, and the > centre. A new headstock centre should always be machined in place before > using. The usual mark is a light centre punch dimple. Once machined in > place, good alignment will be achieved by simply lining up the marks. ======== Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking Subject: Re: Original prices of vintage lathes From: Robert Bastow Date: Mon, 25 Jan 1999 18:30:50 GMT -------- I couldn't agree more Pete!! When the history of the "Decline and Fall of Western Civilization" is eventually written (not in English I might add)..The root cause will be traced to the "Harvard MBA School of Qarterly Bottom Lines" Robert Bastow PLAlbrecht wrote: > > If you want, we can blame somebody else -- the Harvard MBA mentality, which > gave us the quarterly earnings report and all that that brought with it. > > Pete ======== Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking Subject: Re: Spontaneously leaking oil cans From: Robert Bastow Date: Tue, 26 Jan 1999 02:03:53 GMT -------- Oil seems to have a "self levitating" ability!! I keep a jar of cutting oil on a shelf behind my lathe..No matter how well I clean the shelf and the outside of the jar I always find it sitting in a ring of oil that has migrated up and over the rim. Robert Bastow GJRepesh wrote: > > I have an Eagle pump oiler leaking. I know its not the bottom but I'm not sure > where its getting out from the top. > > I keep it on an empty tuna can so I don't get oil all over the place. > > Gary R. ======== Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking Subject: Re: What is it? From: Robert Bastow Date: Tue, 26 Jan 1999 02:09:07 GMT -------- Wierdest thing I saw in a long time: http://cgi.ebay.com/aw-cgi/eBay/SAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=60325001 What or how would one use it? For double headed nails? BTW there are TWO of them on eBay right now!! Also, check out the curved ruler!! Robert Bastow ======== Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking Subject: Re: Brass or Bronze? From: Robert Bastow Date: Tue, 26 Jan 1999 02:11:25 GMT -------- The price they're askin' for it!! shermfry wrote: > > How does one tell the difference between brass and bronze at the scrap > yard? Inquiring minds need to know! > > Sherm ======== Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking Subject: Re: What is it? From: Robert Bastow Date: Tue, 26 Jan 1999 02:19:55 GMT -------- Damned if I can tell 1 (one) from l (L)..Try mixing and matching..BTW IT is a double clawed hammer!! or is that 11 or ll ? Robert Bastow wrote: > > Wierdest thing I saw in a long time: > > http://cgi.ebay.com/aw-cgi/eBay/SAPI.d11?ViewItem&item=60325001 > > What or how would one use it? For double headed nails? > > BTW there are TWO of them on eBay right now!! > > Also, check out the curved ruler!! > > Robert Bastow ======== Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking Subject: Re: What is it? From: Robert Bastow Date: Tue, 26 Jan 1999 02:21:51 GMT -------- Screw it..Find it yerselves!!! Robert Bastow wrote: > > Damned if I can tell 1 (one) from l (L)..Try mixing and matching..BTW IT is a > double clawed hammer!! or is that 11 or ll ? > > Robert Bastow wrote: > > > > Wierdest thing I saw in a long time: > > > > http://cgi.ebay.com/aw-cgi/eBay/SAPI.d11?ViewItem&item=60325001 > > > > What or how would one use it? For double headed nails? > > > > BTW there are TWO of them on eBay right now!! > > > > Also, check out the curved ruler!! > > > > Robert Bastow ======== Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking Subject: Re: What is it? From: Robert Bastow Date: Tue, 26 Jan 1999 03:54:27 GMT -------- BRILLIANT!! PLAlbrecht wrote: > > >Wierdest thing I saw in a long time: > > > >http://cgi.ebay.com/aw-cgi/eBay/SAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=60325001 > > > >What or how would one use it? For double headed nails? > > > > > > Ever notice that if you're trying to pull really long nails, you run out of > travel before the nail comes out? Then you go hunting for a chunk of 2x4 to put > under the hammerhead to continue pulling? With this thing, you do the first > pull with the claw opposite the head, then when you've gone as far as you can > with that, transfer to the other claw. > > Pete ======== Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking Subject: Re: Position of Follower Rest From: Robert Bastow Date: Tue, 26 Jan 1999 13:18:57 GMT -------- The travelling steady is set to TRAIL the tool point..ie: on the freshly cut surface. How else can you guarantee that the surface being steadied is ROUND and of the CORRECT DIAMETER?? Think about turning a bolt shank from hexagonal stock! Think about finishing to a shoulder! There are exceptions however, one of them being when screwcutting..it is better to have the steady riding AHEAD of the tool..on the pre-finished o/d, rather than on any burrs that may be thrown up by the cutting tool. Robert Bastow Stephen J. Rayner wrote: > > In Britspeak htey are called travelling steadies. Myfords mount them on > the left side of the saddle, at least on the 7 series lathes. The tool bit > can be positioned so that the point just leads the steady, ======== Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking Subject: Re: Trueing Lathe center From: Robert Bastow Date: Tue, 26 Jan 1999 13:28:03 GMT -------- Sorry Jack, I guess I chose my words badly. I was referring to the HEADSTOCK center and to the method that is commonly used to GUARANTEE concentricity. Of course many people, myself included, will mark the center and the spindle nose for replacement. On many cases this will result in ACCEPTABLE accuracy. However, one can get ACCEPTABLE accuracy for most purposes..and a durn sight quicker and easier from a chuck or a collet. I only turn between centers when I want it to be DEAD NUTS...Skimming up the sof center is the only way to guarantee that it will be. Robert Bastow Jack Erbes wrote: > > Robert Bastow wrote: > > > > I know what people commonly do..or more usually, advise others to do! > > > > I was telling you the CORRECT way to achieve best accuracy!! > > Gee, is there a book that has *all* the CORRECT ways accumulated in it? > We'll start getting our answers there and eliminate the confusion that > results from sharing our experiences and describing other ways that may > work. > > I use both methods, my carbide tipped dead center (used with harder > materials and offset tailstock) got a touch-up grind in place and was > then indexed. > > -- > Jack in Sonoma, CA, USA (jack@vom.com) ======== Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking Subject: Re: Hole boring problems From: Robert Bastow Date: Tue, 26 Jan 1999 14:40:13 GMT -------- Hi Doug, First "dumb fool" question...Are you running in the right direction..or have the right "hand" boring tool. Secondly, check that you have the tool oriented correctly in the head..ie with the flat face of the tip at "normal" to the axis. If you haven't already tried it..slow down the speed and increase the feed. 0.005" per rev feed..Stainless tends to work harden and you have to ensure that each bite you take cuts under the toughened "skin" Use cutting oil. Use a drill to open up the hole closer (-0.015") to your finish size. Hope this helps. Robert Bastow Douglas A. Greblunas wrote: > > First time poster, short time reader..... I have been trying > unsucessfully to use a boring head in 304 stainless. My objective is > to bore a .500" hole is a piece of flat stock .250" thick 1.000" wide. > I have a criton 2" boring head with .500 shank HSS boring bars. I > start by drilling a .375 hole. After installing a .250 face width > bar, I set the cutting edge plus .010 to the radius. Set the power > down feed on .003 ipr and start at 100 rpm and flood coolant. The > bore starts nice, but tapers in and snaps the bar!!!! I'm kind of new > at this, but these boring tests are the only problems to date. Worked > great in alluminum. Have tried all three down feed rates and various > rpm's under 100 fpm. Carbide tipped bars????? I know some of you can > give me some ideas, maybe I'm overlooking something simple??? Please > be gentle, my wallet allready is feeling the pain. Feel free to > e-mail me if so desired. Any help greatly appreciated. > Thank You > Douglas Greblunas > Palmyra, Pennsylvania > greggreg@leba.net ======== Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking Subject: Re: PHASE II TOOLPOST From: Robert Bastow Date: Thu, 28 Jan 1999 02:01:11 GMT -------- How much do you want for it Chuck? I have a yen to use it as a dedicated rear toolpost. Contact me direct. Robert Bastow Chuck Sherwood wrote: Anyone want a piston toolpost cheap? ======== Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking Subject: Re: Lufkin mic set .. followup From: Robert Bastow Date: Thu, 28 Jan 1999 02:12:12 GMT -------- You mean you actually FELL for all that guff about Lufkins??? ;^) Of course you do realise that Starretts are only pot metal under that shiny enamel. To save you further embarrassment I will take them off your hands for five bucks!! Grant Erwin wrote: > > Posted Wed. 1/27 > > This thread was called something like "What are these mics worth". > I met with the guy, and showed him a lot of your feedback. He saw > the light of day and rolled his price back a fair amount. I'm now > the proud owner of a nice set of Lufkin mics, 1" to 6", in the > original box with wrenches, standards, even the key to the box. > > I paid more than I would have for a Polish set, but much less > than I would have for new Starrett, Mitutoyo or even Fowler. I am > pretty satisfied. > > Now I have to sell my previous mis-mash of micrometers. I am > offering for sale to this NG, not on ebay, the following 2 lots > with more to come: > > 1. Two Mitutoyo mics, 0-1 and 1-2. Carbide faces, locking spindle. > Includes spanner wrench and 1" standard and hardwood sized for a > Kennedy toolbox drawer outline milled for these two plus a 2-3" > (not included). Measure to .0001", in very nice condition. The > 0-1 has a ratchet, the 1-2 has a friction barrel. $90 obo > http://www.halcyon.com/meretrix/images/mitumics.jpg > > 2. Two Starrett mics, model 436. See them all over ebay. I have > a nice pair, 3-4" and 4-5". Friction thimbles, locking. Japanning > is in excellent condition. Measure to .001". $75 obo > http://www.halcyon.com/meretrix/images/starmics.jpg > > Usual terms apply (buyer prepays, pays for shipping). In addition, > I will only hold this offer open until Sunday 1/31, after that I > will put these items on ebay. > > Grant Erwin > Seattle, Washington ======== Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking Subject: Re: WANTED: I'm looking for a sliderule. Really. From: Robert Bastow Date: Thu, 28 Jan 1999 03:43:47 GMT -------- There is a K & E on EBAY as we speak..asking $7.90 last time I looked. Mike Graham wrote: > > Okay, guys, one of my welding instructors has a hardon to buy a > sliderule. Honest. No 5-digit accuracy necessary, just a standard > 'highschool' type sliderule. > > Where should I look? > > Mike Graham mike@headwaters.com > > Mangler of metal. User of many grinding disks. > Cut with an axe, beat to fit, paint to match. ======== Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking Subject: Re: Knurls From: Robert Bastow Date: Thu, 28 Jan 1999 18:08:14 GMT -------- Can you tell me what those diameters are?? In forty plus years of metalcutting I have NEVER found a diameter that couldn't be perfectly knurled with standard diameter knurls!! If the army says it ain't so then you know why army pencils have erasers on the other end!! Knurls are NOT GEARS!! The "pressure angle is such that thy cannot fail to slip into mesh whenever the pitch diameter is "mathematically incorrect" The only time when this is unlikely to happen is when the initial bite is not deep enough. So quit worrying about something that ain't going to happen!! And quit repeating "Stuff" read in books written by so-called "experts" who obviously have never tried out their theories in practice!! Robert Bastow ...Who is sick of hearing the same old garbage repeated by one generation after another!! > There are diameters that cannot be knurled with standard size knurls. > ======== Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking Subject: Re: Speed for grey wheel: 1725 or 3450? From: Robert Bastow Date: Thu, 28 Jan 1999 18:34:12 GMT -------- Like a lot of other things Michael.."it all depends"!! There is a bit of "Black Art" in grinding and the operator tries to optimise a whole lot of variables such as: Grit size...how big are the individual grains in the wheel Density/Porosity...the ratio of grit to fresh air. Hardness..the strength of the bond holding the grit in the wheel. Fragibility..the fracture strength of the grit particles. The objective is to use the largest grit possible, commensurate with the desired finish. Larger grits cut faster and produce less heat in the workpiece. Hardness determines how easily the wheel "Lets go" of dull grits..exposing fresh cutting facets. Fragibility determines how easily worn or "glazed" grits fracture to reveal fresh cutting facets. Unfortunately "hardness" is also a function of speed..The faster the peripheral speed the "Harder" a wheel will act. Blunted grits will not release as easily. The glazed wheel will create more heat..leading to distortion and in some cases (surface or cylindrical grinding) this will lead to "crowding" of the wheel...Literally the part expands, creating more pressure = more heat = more expansion, in a viscious cycle. Stainless steel is particularly nasty in this respect. The downside of a slower speed is that the wheel acts "Softer"..redressing has to be done more frequently if precision grinding is to be maintained. How does this answer your question Michael? My advice is to go with the SLOWER speed UNLESS you are concerned about excessive wheel wear. Michael T Kasimirsky wrote: > > Hey everyone, > > As the subject says, I'm trying to get some input on what you folks > prefer, speed-wise, for an 8" Aluminum oxide grinder wheel. I'm > overhauling a grinder and I need to decide a motor speed for it. The > wheel is direct drive, so it's either 17xx or 3450 rpm. ======== Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking Subject: Re: Centering square stock From: Robert Bastow Date: Thu, 28 Jan 1999 18:59:21 GMT -------- The quick way to get PDC (pretty damn close) is to first set a ROUND bar of the same dimension to run true in your four jaw. The back off ONLY two ADJACENT jaws to remove it. Put in your square piece and retigten ONLY the aforsaid two jaws. Most times it will be close enough for "Govmint" work. Quick tip for setting work true in a 4 jaw in two revolutions! (I learned this, setting up roll turning lathes with 108" swing and a jogging speed of two to four MINUTES per revolution.) 1. Revolve the work through one revolution..noting the TOTAL swing of the indicator needle. Bring the spindle to a halt at the MIDPOINT of the swing and ZERO the dial to the needle. 2. Revolve spindle to bring jaw one to be "on the plunger". Adjust jaw one and jaw three to ZERO the needle again. 3 Rotate 1/4 turn and adjust jaws two and four to re-zero needle. Job is done! Robert Bastow Felice Luftschein & Nicholas Carter wrote: > > On 28 Jan 1999 14:10:02 GMT, fidln1@aol.com (Fidln1) wrote: > > > Recently when trying to center a piece of 1 inch square stock in a 4 jaw > >chuck what had seemed like a simple chore turned out not to be. If I set the > >indicator on the flats I would have to move the indicator (mounted in the > >toolpst) back out of the way with the crosslide to turn the work to opposite > >flat then crosslide back in to the cross- dial setting. > If you take up all the backlash in the slide screw each time, this > will work. It helps if you can zero the crosslide dial. > > I tried making a center mark on the end of the bar and > >eyeballing it with the tailstock center which got that end pretty close but > >when I went back and indicated close to the chuck that was off about 20 thou. > For this method, use a wiggler, with an indicator bearing on the > wiggler shank. > This is a hard job. ======== Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking Subject: Re: Satire ok for advertisers ? From: Robert Bastow Date: Thu, 28 Jan 1999 19:17:02 GMT -------- This is a public forum..do not put anything here that you do not want to be public, answered in public, criticized in public, ridiculed in public or satirized in public. Public forums, like public life, are not for the faint hearted or the easily offended. More power to you Scott..Just don't get offended when YOU are the target! ;^) Robert Bastow Scott A. Moore wrote: > > I'll leave it to you folks. I recently got a letter taking me to task > for satirizing an ad posted here. > > My personal opinion ? Advertise here, I am at liberty to poke fun at it. > > Whats the group opinion ? > > After all, everyone knows what a mellow guy I am :):):):) > > -- > ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- > See me at http://www.employees.org/~samiam > See the ANSI Pascal page at http://www.employees.org/~samiam/pascal.html > See the Classic Basic Games page at http://www.employees/~samiam/basichome.html > The first casualty of the internet was truth. > Manners and clarity fell soon after that, and the body count still rises.... > ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- ======== Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking Subject: Re: Knurls From: Robert Bastow Date: Fri, 29 Jan 1999 00:57:39 GMT -------- VICTORCAP wrote: Sorry you are having trouble..I don't EVER!!! I still Maintain there is NO DIAMETER THAT CANNOT BE SUCCESSFULLY KNURLED WITH STANDARD DIAMETER KNURLS...PERIOD!! That assumes you know what the hell you are doing, how to go about it, and the mechanics involved. Robert Bastow > in the MSC and J&L catalogs in the knurl pages they have a trouble shooting > list. they say if you get double track to change the pitch of the knurl or > change the dia. of the work by a few thou. > i have set up a turret lathe that has a knurl tool in it and had a problem > getting a clean knurl until i changed pitch. now it can do no wrong. i knurl at > cutting rpm so i don't have to stop and change speeds. > fred ======== Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking Subject: Re: Stark #4-1/2 Lathe? From: Robert Bastow Date: Fri, 29 Jan 1999 02:17:16 GMT -------- What you are looking at is commonly referred to as as a "Bench Lathe"..No not like an Atlas, SB or Myford "bench lathe" but a specific type of plain (non sliding, non screwcutting) high precision lathe used by tool and instrument makers. I have no knowledge of this particular maker..but at one time almost every lathe manufacturer listed a lathe of this type, along with a wide range of accessories. Robert Bastow Robert Lorenz wrote: > > I came across a Stark number four and one half lathe made in Waltham Mass. > > It looks like a large jewlers lathe, Can anyone tell me any kind of > information on the Stark company or general information on such a huge > jewlers lathe? > > - > ROBERT LORENZ KHJC64B@prodigy.com ======== Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking Subject: Re: Machinist t-shirt From: Robert Bastow Date: Sat, 30 Jan 1999 01:45:06 GMT -------- A simple narrow band of oil spray running from waist to left collar bone would be all the cognicenti would need to see. Robert Bastow ======== Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking Subject: Re: Brass to Silver From: Robert Bastow Date: Sat, 30 Jan 1999 01:49:43 GMT -------- There is an old formula used by clockmakers for "silvering" dials etc. I thought it was in Machinerys Handbook but turned up empty handed. As I recall it involved rubbing the surface with a paste of Cream of Tartar and silver nitrate. I will try to find it later. Robert Bastow ======== Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking Subject: Re: Dumore model 77 From: Robert Bastow Date: Sun, 31 Jan 1999 17:22:18 GMT -------- Thanks for that pointer Russ. I have just aquired a Dumore "toolpost" grinder (on Ebay"..Old but in excellent condition...AND the price was right at $238.00!!) This is a BIG unit..Model 77 NOT 57..but I can fit it on my 11" Maximat Super, no problem. The motor is a Dumor unit, 1/2 HP 3450 rev/min and built like a battleship. It is the SMOOOTHEST running motor I ever came across. Anyone ever heard of the model 77..Dumore don't list it anymore? Robert Bastow Russ Kepler wrote: > http://www.dumorecorp.com ======== Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking Subject: Re: Costco Delta Drillpress From: Robert Bastow Date: Sun, 31 Jan 1999 17:26:08 GMT -------- I guess you got lucky with that Delta drill press Dick. Mine is the biggest POS ever to waste perfectly good floor space!! Robert Bastow Dick Brewster wrote: > > On todays trip to the Santa Clara Costco I saw a Delta 13 inch > floor model drillpress for $225. There was virtually no play in > the quill with it fully extended. The general level of finish was > also better than than most other Taiwanese drillpresses. > > I can feel the 0.002 inch play in my Harbor Freight model 583 16 > inch drill press, so the Delta must be better. They are worth a > look for anyone looking for a low priced drillpress. I bought > the Harborfreight 583 after looking at a lot of other imports > because the HF was a lot less sloppy than the other Asian > imports, including the Sears stuff, but the Delta that I saw > today beat them all. > > -- > Dick > > username. dbrewste > domain. ix.netcom.com ======== Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking Subject: Re: Does anyone have experience with Levin equipment? From: Robert Bastow Date: Sun, 31 Jan 1999 17:34:06 GMT -------- I just aquired a Levin Watchmaker's lathe on Ebay..Beautiful bit 'o kit. Levin are reputed to rank with the BEST but their prices will bring tears to a glass eye. I plan to make my own accessories for it..compound slide rest and capstan tailstock etc..maybe even go the whole hog and put on a leadscrew, power feeds and screwcutting gearbox!! robertadkisson wrote: > > I was looking through their pages; it seems to be nice stuff. No > prices, though, so I'll bet it is a bit pricey. > > Anyone have any comments? > > Thanks, Bob ======== Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking Subject: Re: T - Shirts From: Robert Bastow Date: Mon, 01 Feb 1999 12:49:55 GMT -------- CHIPS!!... You're never alone with a HSM!! Measure twice..Cut once!! Measure again..Redesign!! Support your local HSM.. He can't support HIMSELF!! It's past 11 o'clock.. Do you know where your TOOLS are? Be a Better Father.. Spend more time with your TOOLS!! Robert Bastow ======== Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking Subject: Re: Stuck Chuck From: Robert Bastow Date: Mon, 01 Feb 1999 15:36:34 GMT -------- You could do what one of my (EX!!) apprentices did on a 65 HP Cincinnati CNC turning center!! SOMEHOW he managed to program out the "Safety Zone" and machined the chuck right off the sucker!! I did say EX!! Robert Bastow James Peter wrote: > > My 10 inch Clausing lathe has the chuck stuck on the spindle. I've tried all > the usual tricks to remove it. What worries me is that if I twist it too > hard I'll break something and if I heat it I'll warp something or damage a > seal or bearing. Pounding on it seems risky too. Help me. > > Thanks, > > Jim ======== Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking Subject: Re: Aligning the headstock of a JET 920N lathe From: Robert Bastow Date: Mon, 01 Feb 1999 18:12:10 GMT -------- Bit 'o lateral thinking needed here. You DO have an accurate "test bar"...The one you just machined!! "But it's not parallel!" So what!! You know the taper on it..so if it is .004" larger at the tailstock end simply set your headstock such, that when you traverse your carriage and DTI towards the tailstock..You get a + 0.002" reading!! This will give you a far more accurate setting than any lash-up of bits that MIGHT resemble a pukkah "Test Bar" Robert Bastow George Erhart wrote: > > I recently purchased a jet 920 after chasing classifieds for > 2 1/2 years looking for an american built lathe in the machinery > desert known as central Ohio. > > Since I have been watching this news group for around 5 years and > I have read the HSM review of the Jet lathe in question, I knew > that I would need to do some work on it. > > From my minimal testing, I can conclusively state that the headstock > is twisted slightly and points to the back of the bed. I turned a > 6" long, 1.5" diameter aluminum round down to a nice finish. It measured 4 > thousands wider at the free end than at the chuck. > > The headstock is bolted to the bed and uses a pair of set screws on > the back side of the headstock for "fine" alignment. From the > assembly diagram, the setscrews appear to push against the studs that > hold the headstock to the bed. (As Peter Nolan pointed out quite > some time back, this is a very poor way to get alignment!) Anyway, I > know that I could use the following cycle to get the alignment: > > 1. make test cut > 2. measure taper > 3. unmount motor > 4. loosen headstock nuts > 5. adjust headstock via setscrews and tapping with soft hammer > 6. tighten headstock nuts > 7. remount motor > 8. goto #1 and repeat until TIR is very small. > > Personally, I will get no joy from continually dismounting/remounting > the motor. So, I was thinking, since I do not have a lathe test bar > and have not seen any on the market ... what about using a 1/2" MT#3 > end mill holder and 1/2" precision ground drill blank to check for > alignment. This way, I could take the motor off once. I could also > get a #2 holder to verify the tailstock. > > I have borrowed a copy of the Connelly machine tool reconditioning > book and the tests listed in there would seem to match my approach, > but he uses special test bars made with a taper on one end that > exactly fits the headstock taper. My approach is the poor man's > version. > > Any helpful suggestions would be appreciated. > > George Erhart > gerhart@lucent.com ======== Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking Subject: Re: Ain't it nice From: Robert Bastow Date: Mon, 01 Feb 1999 22:04:47 GMT -------- Something that might tickle you more John..While the rod is sinking, give it a spin with your fingers. If the fit is CLOSE and the finish is GOOD, the rod will spin..on an air bearing no less..for quite a long time. A pal of mine used to knock these out in his lunch time and SELL the little suckers to wide eyed "Civilians" (non-HSMs) It works better if you make a heavy (say 1 1/2" x 3/4" hex) spinner with a blind, reamed hole in it and put it on top of a hardened dowel pin. The two can be lapped together to get the right fit and finish. Good practise..and maybe a stocking filler for the nippers! Robert Bastow jmkasunich@my-dejanews.com wrote: > > I'm still enough of a newbie that little things make > me happy. > > The project: make a sleeve, 1/2" OD, 3/8" ID, with > slits like a collet, so I can use a 3/8" shank end mill > in the 1/2" collet of my router. This is for (dare I > say it?) a woodworking project. Anyhow, start with a > chunk of 1/2" drill rod, drill 1" deep and bore. No > boring bar yet, so improvise by grinding one flute off > of a cheap 5/16 end mill, use the remaining flute to > cut. No reamer yet either, so take lots of fine cuts. > I finally got the best fit I've ever put on _anything_. > Hold the rod vertically with hole facing up, put 3/8" > end mill in, and watch it slowly (10 seconds) settle > to the bottom of the hole as the trapped air leaks out, > driven only by the weight of the endmill. > > I just had to tell somebody... > > John Kasunich > > -----------== Posted via Deja News, The Discussion Network ==---------- > http://www.dejanews.com/ Search, Read, Discuss, or Start Your Own ======== Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking Subject: Re: 8mm WW tap From: Robert Bastow Date: Mon, 01 Feb 1999 22:08:17 GMT -------- Levin can supply one. The thread is 0.275"-40 NS GH2 They won't be cheap. Point your searcher at Levin Precision. Robert Bastow Joyce Hug wrote: > > Can anyone direct me to a source for a tap specifically for WW collets. I > have tried MSC etc. and no one seems to have the correct size tap. > > Thanks > Steve Ross ======== Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking Subject: Re: Cute little truck From: Robert Bastow Date: Mon, 01 Feb 1999 22:14:41 GMT -------- Sob, Sniffle, SNORK!! I (sob) like Fitch too! (sniffle) Scott your eloquence brought a tear to BOTH my glass eyes!! Not easily moved... In wet and chilly (just like bloody YORKSHIRE) Atlanta. Robert Bastow Scott S. Logan wrote: > > On 1 Feb 1999 17:14:35 GMT, "James Harvey" > wrote: > > >So you're really upset about Fitch's new truck ain't ya. > > > > > >Lighten up a little DAHLING...... > > LOL! Thanks, Jim. > > It's really a shame that ANYONE would fault Fitch for a little > bragging. He earned it, and besides, he has proven repeatedly, that > he is an asset for all of us here. > > Personally, I like a little off topic information once in awhile. > Someone once said that this group is a bit like a machinists club. > Machining is what brings us together, but we have other things in our > lives as well. As at a machinists club meeting, the principle topic > should be machining, but a little wandering is tolerable. > > Hey Fitch? I'll admit, I'm just damn jealous. Not only the truck, > but the daughter and the wife as well. > > Peace. > > -- > +--------------------------------------------+ > | Scott Logan - ssl "at"loganact.com | > | Logan Actuator Co. http://www.loganact.com | > | Chicago, IL | > |++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++| > | Parts and Accessories for Logan Lathes and | > | Montgomery Wards Lathes | > | Logan-Lilly Mine Hoist Safety Controllers | > +--------------------------------------------+ > "Measure Twice, Cut Once" > > RCM FAQ - http://w3.uwyo.edu/~metal > Metal Web News - http://www.mindspring.com/~wgray1/ > Help squash SPAM: http://www.cauce.org/ ======== Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking Subject: Re: Ain't it nice From: Robert Bastow Date: Mon, 01 Feb 1999 22:19:52 GMT -------- PS If you hit them with a blast from an air gun, they will reach INCREDIBLE speeds and run forever!! Robert Bastow wrote: > > It works better if you make a heavy (say 1 1/2" x 3/4" hex) spinner with a > blind, reamed hole in it and put it on top of a hardened dowel pin. The two can > be lapped together to get the right fit and finish. > ======== Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking Subject: Re: 8mm WW tap From: Robert Bastow Date: Mon, 01 Feb 1999 22:43:40 GMT -------- PS There are a couple of much cheaper alternatives: A 6-40 HELICOIL insert tap is 0.276-40 tpi and lists for 50 cents The WW thread..0.275 - 40 is an "Anglicized" version of the original 8mm collet thread which is 7mm x 1mm pitch (0.276 - 39.4 tpi) the two are said to be (designed to be) interchangeable. You will note that the metric thread is a teensy bit bigger..its meant to be, so that buyers of US made WW tackle could use their existing 8mm collets etc...but not vice versa..Cunning. Huh!! This is the choice I would make..the 7x1mm lists at about 6 bucks MSC lists both these alternatives. Robert Bastow Robert Bastow wrote: > Levin can supply one. The thread is 0.275"-40 NS GH2 They won't be >cheap. > Point your searcher at Levin Precision. > Joyce Hug wrote: > > > > Can anyone direct me to a source for a tap specifically for WW collets. I > > have tried MSC etc. and no one seems to have the correct size tap. > > > > Thanks > > Steve Ross ======== Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking Subject: Re: Snowed IN!!! From: Robert Bastow Date: Mon, 01 Feb 1999 22:55:26 GMT -------- PLAlbrecht wrote: > > Hey, Bill. > > Wanna amaze your daughter and confuse your enemies? Try shifting the Jetta > without the clutch. Upshifts are a no-brianer. Downshifts require a bit of > throttle to match revs. Actually the quicker you upshift the better this > technique works. Try it at least once, you won't break anything. > Er! You might!! In my rally driving days, clutchless shifts were the norm..and in those days most gearboxes could take it. It was much, much faster than declutching..actually if you did it right, it was easier on the drive train. You might make it through a WHOLE COUPLA stages without replacing the clutch and its release bearing. We were driving Semi-Works Ford Twin-Cam Escorts then. Snorty little SOBs! HOWEVER!!! I tried to demonstrate the technique to my disbelieving buddy..in HIS Ford Escort and the damned gearshit lever snapped clean off in my hand. We made it home shifting gears with vice grips...No he never did let me forget it!! Robert Bastow ..Who probably will have to buy him a pint AGAIN next time we meet!! ======== Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking Subject: Re: Machinist t-shirt From: Robert Bastow Date: Mon, 01 Feb 1999 23:08:42 GMT -------- Hey guys! Remember who broached the "oil slick" idea FIRST!! I wanna ROYALTY! ;^) Grasping as ever.. Robert Bastow Marc Warden wrote: > The idea of a vertical brown strip on the left side is a great one. All > my t-shirts/coveralls had that.. > > MarcW. > > Bill Machrone wrote: > > > I like the vertical oil stripe idea best, ======== Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking Subject: Re: B&S mic question From: Robert Bastow Date: Mon, 01 Feb 1999 23:38:31 GMT -------- Your 3-6" mike should only HAVE three anvils 3-4" 4-5" and 5-6" It should also have three standards 3" 4" and 5" (not 4 5 &6") Standards are regulars on ebay..don't pay more than 5 bucks apiece for them used or 10 bucks new and certified. Robert Bastow ======== Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking Subject: Re: Snowed IN!!! From: Robert Bastow Date: Tue, 02 Feb 1999 03:22:13 GMT -------- PLAlbrecht wrote: > > >HOWEVER!!! > > > >I tried to demonstrate the technique to my disbelieving buddy..in HIS Ford > >Escort and the damned gearshit lever snapped clean off in my hand. > >We made it home shifting gears with vice grips... > > Wonder if that's the same shift lever design used in the German/Dutch/British > Ford Capri. There's a raised ring on the lever, and two halves of a plastic > ball slip over that ring to act as the pivot inside the gate. The sharp corner > transition at the ring is a wonderful little stress riser, and the lever > eventually snaps clean right above the ring. Is that what happened to yours? YUP!..One and the same!! I forgot the cars we rallied were, fitte with a "cast iron" ZF five speed, straight cut, gear box..."You could crash 'em and mash'em but you couldn't break 'em!" We (kinda) bought the "Twincs" from Ford (Competitions) in Dagenham..my old buddy Stuart France was Competitions Manager there and we got a "deal" Those cars were TOUGH little Muthas you could NOT break them!!..Not with a HAMMER!! Every seam was hammer welded AND brazed, shock mountings, engine mountings, etc., were 1/4" plate...they needed to be, as every suspension bushing was replaced with solid steel or bronze! Did I say SUSPENSION?? They rode like farm carts, but did they ever hold the road!! The only thing that prevented compressive fractures of the spine and curdled kidneys, were the superb Reccaro race/rally seats..which were as much a part of the handling as any other part of the car. I took one over a hump back bridge, at close to 130 mph..I am in mid-air, looking for the road that even the eight (count 'em) Cibies hadn't yet illuminated, when my navigator,inhisusualmonotoneandwithout lookingupfromhispacenotes says"... "Bridgeahead/sharpleftover/second3000/third/five/fiftyards/second/3000/righthand/straight220ydsflat" "BIT BLOODY LATE MATE!!" I yelled grabbing second from fifth, with enough clutch to yank the revs down to 3000 and putting on left full lock just in time to hit the gravel..where it stuck like SH*T to a blanket!! Before figuring whether it made it round THAT bend I'm clog down to 5000 grabbing third gear, then smack it back into second.. scrubbing off speed and revs to 3000, fifty-yards-to-the-NEXT-bend, hard right and wind it back throught the box to around 145 on the straight away. There was no time for declutching!! " SHIT!!" I screamed "WAKE UP!!" "Ijustdidhesaid!!!!!!" Obviously we made it round THAT bend..well the Twinc. and most of my body parts did..but I swear to this day there were bits of me that went straight on..And I've never seen them since!! Did I say they handled?..Like a brick on a string Mate..Like a brick on a string!! Robert Bastow > I fixed mine way back in the 70s by using the handy dandy little Emcomat lathe > in Argonne Labs' solar energy department (somebody on this list informed me > that they still have MY lathe which I ordered from McMaster-Carr back then in > the basement) to put a threaded splint in the shaft, and then silver solder it > for good measure. It lasted about a week, by that time I had gotten a new one > from the dealer. Broke just outside the home garage the second time. > > The third time, I was about a mile from home, by this time I was getting good > at quick fixes. Pulled over, reached under car from under driver's door, > counted shift rods (let's see, reverse rod, 1-2 rod, 3-4 rod... I want 2nd... > jam that forward...) and proceeded to drive with the trans permanently in 2nd, > using the clutch. > > Funny, they must have changed the metallurgy or something, haven't had that > happen again in 20 years and I'm still driving that car when it rains here. > Sort of. (Body replaced, engine replaced, trans replaced, still same car...) > > Pete ======== Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking Subject: Re: Ain't it nice From: Robert Bastow Date: Tue, 02 Feb 1999 03:30:32 GMT -------- Not for a boring bar Scott..way too soft. They double temper the hell outa them to get maximum toughness...but you can file them easy! Scott A. Moore wrote: > One trick I saw, but did not try, is to take an allen > wrench and grind the short end of it to a bit for boring. > Its the right kind of metal. ======== Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking Subject: Re: Dust collector for grinding? From: Robert Bastow Date: Tue, 02 Feb 1999 04:05:52 GMT -------- They work fine..but you want a dedicated system..all those red hot steel grindings will mix all too well with the wood dust in your system..for a VERY short while!! Can you say "DUST EXPLOSION!!" What I, and a lot of other knife grinders do, when using a 2HP 2"x72" belt grinder, is to place a five gallon pail half filled with water in path of the "jet stream" Add a little bi-carb to the water to inhibit rust (which can be instantaneous when quenching fresh ground high carbon steel)..Plus a dash of washing up liquid, which lowers surface tension, lets the steel bits sink and prevents a surface accumulation of dust, rust and oily slime. YECH!! Oh, and by the way..we do it in a place set aside from other machinery, we wear heavy, heatproof gloves, a full leather apron, boot protectors face shield, buttoned up shirt neck , sleeves down, hat on..AND A FULL FILTER RESPIRATOR!! Grab a push stick and BEAR DOWN till it flames!! 8^) Who needs a dust extractor?? ;^) Robert "Power Grinder" Bastow By the way, if anyone doubts that grinding is anything but a CUTTING operation, should grab a handful of "Dust" from my pail...It comes out like coarse steel wool and I have been known to use it as such! These big belt grinders will take an eighth of an inch off the end of a two inch square bar, FASTER and almost as ACCURATELY, as any milling machine! Greg Dermer wrote: > > Has anybody tried using woodworking dust collectors for collecting > pedestal/surface/tool/abrasive belt grinder output? > > Anybody made up anything from scratch for this purpose? > > Seems to me the characteristics of grinder grit are considerably different > than woodworking dust (heavier for one thing) so I wonder how well the > woodworking collectors work for this purpose. > > -- Greg ======== Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking Subject: Re: Way Oil..The Kiss of Death! From: Robert Bastow Date: Tue, 02 Feb 1999 05:15:22 GMT -------- Kevin Pinkerton wrote: > > I just got a quart sample of the ISO 68 (medium weight) Syn Way oil > from Royal Purple. It acts very tacky and leaves strings between the > fingers (like I would expect it to) very similar to the way Chain Saw > Bar oil does. Personally I am very leery of "Way Oil"..Especially on home shop type machines. Understand that this stuff is developed and formulated for Industrial machines, working under arduous, heavily loaded conditions THAT ARE DESIGNED ESPECIALLY TO USE IT. By that I mean that their ways are as fully protected from chips, scale and dust as possible..by mechanical design and layout. Secondly, they use way protectors and wipers that cost more to replace than most of us would consider paying for a complete work shop of machines. Thirdly they are used with timed or constant flow lube systems designed to flush, filter and recirculate way oil constantly. Lastly, those machines, expensive as they are, after a short life of careful, scheduled maintenance, are..in the final analysis...DISPOSABLE!! Like your hard earned machines RIGHT?? In other words..every thing is done to prevent contamination of the lube..and prevent that contaminated lube from being carried UNDER the way wipers and into the (Expensive) guts of the machine. Now consider your precious HS Mill or Lathe. Sure, especially on a mill, the ways are out of sight and SOMEWHAT protected from flying debris. But, remember the last job you did on cast iron..Or scaly, hot rolled steel? Boy how the dust flew..took weeks to rid the shop of it didn't it? Well I got bad news for you...some of it is still there, trapped in that lovely sticky, flypaper-like WAY OIL that does such a good job of sticking to your ways EVEN WHEN those half-assed, half worn wipers pass over it..thats what its supposed to do RIGHT?? Wrong, That sticky paste is the reason machine tool rebuilders have a business..that and the people who use an air gun to "clean down" their machines. (A whole other subject!!) So what should the HSM use? what do *I* use? SCRUPULOUS CLEANLINESS..I wipe the ways on my lathe EVERY time I traverse the saddle any distance and RE-OIL with a squirt of 10W MOTOR OIL...Yeah the stuff with DETERGENTS in it!! Why? Because I WANT all that sh*t held in suspension and flushed out where I can wipe it off in a couple of minutes. How do I know my ways get lubed UNDER the carriage? Because the stuff gets past the rinky-dink wipers that, even I, only replace once or twice a year. Controversial? Obsessive/compulsive? Not if you value, enjoy and respect, the knife edge precision I have slowly built up in my machinery.. I have reground, rescraped and rebuilt MY kit, for the last time in MY lifetime! I have no place for "way oil" in my shop!! Robert Bastow..With asbestos knickers in place!! 8^) ======== Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking Subject: Re: T-Shirt Slogans From: Robert Bastow Date: Tue, 02 Feb 1999 05:19:22 GMT -------- Gerry Einarsson wrote: > > The collection, as it currently stands is..... Is it time to take a vote? > A simple narrow band of oil spray running from waist to left collar >bone.....would be all the cognicenti would need to see. Gets my vote. Heck I don't even need to buy a new tee shirt..I got a closet full already!! Robert "Oily" Bastow ======== Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking Subject: Re: Threading Gurus! From: Robert Bastow Date: Tue, 02 Feb 1999 05:31:11 GMT -------- Jens wrote: > > untmaintco@aol.com (UntMaintco) wrote: > > >I just have to add That I bought a Kennametal Top notch ( please forgive my > >spelling ) Threading tool I think its great. On my small lathe 13" swing 5hp > >drive motor. I can cut most threads in one (1) pass it might not be by the > >book but it sure does work. I know I can cut 18 tpi one pass . Sometimes > >depending on material and what kind of accuracy maybe 2 or 3 cuts. Even then we > >just go straight in no compound angle. I have had great results. Maybe I am > >lucky......... :) > > You MUST be lucky .... either that or you are milling the thread > rather than cutting it. Yes, I can take fairly heavy cuts in the > beginning but there is a lot of tearing and unless I follow it up with > a lot of thinner passes I get terrible finish on mild steel (which is > most of the threading I do). I did some threading in mystery stainless > once, a 1" dia chunk, and it threaded real nice in 2 or 3 passes but I > find it difficult to believe that you could do a single point > threading job in a single pass. > > Jens Whenever possible I use Geometric type thread chasers (pick up odd ones for free..aint no use unless its a full set) to cut threads. Retain the original "Lead" or duplicate it. Straight in, one, two or three passes... At as high a speed as the material, the configuration, and my gut will stand. ..Perfect thread every time! I learned that one running center, capstan and turret lathes, on piecework, as an apprentice. And yes..they had to pass inspection, or we had to re-make the parts..The WHOLE batch..on our own nickel!! Robert Bastow Robert Bastow ======== Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking Subject: Re: Block boring From: Robert Bastow Date: Tue, 02 Feb 1999 05:44:21 GMT -------- All that plus.. A pukka engine reborer will have the required "False Head"..A block of thick steel, prebored to clear the bar..that he can torque down on the block to bring it to its actual running configuration while it is being bored and honed..All in less time than it will take you to bolt it down on your mill table so it don't move..too much! PumaRacing wrote: > > >Subject: Block boring > >From: cstemple > >Date: 2/2/99 2:57AM GMT > >Message-id: <36B66987.5BF83DDD@pacifier.com> > > > > I need to bore a cast iron single cylinder engine block 0.020, > >Question should I attempt to bore it to the 0.020 over in one pass or > >take light cuts on the cast iron? I have a Bridgeport mill to use for > >the job. What type cutter is best to use on cast iron? and what speed > >should it run? > >Thanks in advance > > My best advice is not to do it. Take it to an engine reconditioner for the > small amount it will cost. A mill won't have the rigidity to get an accurate > bore. You'll get chatter marks. You'll have to leave 3 or 4 thou to be honed > out anyway to get rid of the tool marks whereas a jig borer will bore to within > a thou. You'll pay as much for the honing as you would for the whole job > anyway. You'll spend hours making up a boring bar long enough, you'll have to > clock the concentricity very accurately - spend the time fishing and save > yourself the anguish. Been there, done that, got the teeshirt - got a proper > boring bar now and would never go near a mill for that sort of job again if my > life depended on it. > > BTW - if you are thinking of running the engine with a bored finish without the > proper honing work and cross hatch pattern may the engine gods bring a plague > of boils and pestilence upon you :) > > Dave Baker at Puma Race Engines (London - England) - specialist flow > development and engine work. . ======== Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking Subject: Re: STP??? From: Robert Bastow Date: Tue, 02 Feb 1999 07:53:26 GMT -------- Scientifically Tested Products..And don't ask me WHERE I picked up that useless nugget!! Robert Bastow..Who needs to get OFF this damned machine..before I start answering questions on Harbor Fright Bandsaws..fer christ's sake! 'Night all. Adam Widmeyer wrote: > > Can anyone tell me what STP stands for? ======== Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking Subject: Re: Milling questions! From: Robert Bastow Date: Tue, 02 Feb 1999 09:06:26 GMT -------- The name "End Mill" is a bit of a misnomer in as much as they are designed to cut on the SIDE more efficiently than they cut on the END Repeatedly cutting a wide, shallow swathe as you are doing means, effectively, that the very end .025" of your cutter is doing all the work..no wonder they wear out quickly and break..poor little buggers are EXHAUSTED. Especially as they are..at that feed rate..having to do the job ten times over...You are cutting and recutting chips..any slot that emerges will be a BY-PRODUCT!! 8^) So..reduce your WIDTH of cut and increase the DEPTH..1/2 x cutter diameter to 1 x cutter diameter are good starting guide lines when cutting into "solid" metal Width of cut approximately 1/5 to 1/4 cutter diameter as you get to depth and start to "open out"..cutting now only on the side of the mill. with a stiff enough set up and enough HP depths of cut of 1/4 x diameter by 2 to 3 times the mill diameter in "width" are the norm.** Feed .002 to 003 per tooth per rev..more if it will take it..Remember.. the extra "strain" on the cutter taking .003 per rev as opposed to .002 per rev is miniscule..compared with the wear occasioned by having to cut 1/3 more metal on the lower feed!! Flood coolant and brisk brushing, or air jet to get those bloody chips out of the way and give it chance to do the job it was designed and is very capable of doing. My recommendations rely on you having as stiff a setup as you claim..they may sound a bit excessive..but be assured the mill would rather, and can, bend a bit than be plumb wore out. ;^) ** in case I confuse...on the question of depth and width of cut.. A one inch HSS end mill should be capable of taking a 1/4" cut off the full width of the edge of a 2" steel plate.. or a 3" to 4" aluminum plate. PROVIDED THAT the milling machine is of sufficient HP and Rigidity Modern machines with massive power and rigidity are capable of far more than that with carbide cutters..in materials far tougher Robert Bastow Reckless wrote: > > I finally got the stepper motors on the xy table and got them hooked > to a computer. That all works ok. My problem is that I am breaking > or dulling end mills. I'm using my Atlas/Clausing 12x36 lathe for > power, with the endmill held in a collet. > > So here's the parameters: 3/16" 2 flute hss endmill, 0.85"/minute > feed, .025" doc, .072" width of cut, 750 rpm. Material is h.r.s. cut > from 1" x 4" bar stock. I am under the scale/skin. This sort of > works, but the import (yeah, I know) endmills get dull pretty quick. > > I have tried faster feed (makes more crunchy sounds as chips are > recut). Faster speed, up to about 1800 rpm, that burns up the cutter > which then breaks. Killed 2 cutters that way. They worked nice until > the cutter burned up. Coolant really isn't an option yet. > > I've tried climb milling and conventional milling. Both seem to work > equally well. > > If my numbers are correct, I'm feeding too slow. The only endmills I > have left are a couple of US-made 4-flute, which I'll try tomorrow > night. > > So how's about telling me what does work?? Thanks guys! > > -Reckless (Dave) in damp Placentia, California > +---------------------------------+--------------------------------+ > | Same Sh*t, Different Day | Spam deflector in operation: | > | #include | * please remove 'x' to reply * | > +---------------------------------+--------------------------------+ > | RCM FAQ - http://w3.uwyo.edu/~metal | > | Metal Web News - http://www.mindspring.com/~wgray1/ | > +------------------------------------------------------------------+ ======== Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking Subject: Re: Snowed IN!!! From: Robert Bastow Date: Tue, 02 Feb 1999 12:37:18 GMT -------- CharlieDIY wrote: >I used to show off by shifting with my right foot at the base of the >shaft, without using the clutch. "Of course I've never made love to a girl in the car before," he said, changing gear with his knee!! ======== Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking Subject: Re: 8mm / WW tap From: Robert Bastow Date: Tue, 02 Feb 1999 13:54:25 GMT -------- It appears I made an error in the metric equivalent of the WW thread. Somehow, I equated 40 tpi with 40thou which equals 1mm pitch! DUH!! 40 tpi = 0.625mm pitch The correct "American" thread for WW collet DRAWBARS** is, according to the Levin catalogue, faxed to me two days ago: Catalogue No 0031-01 Drawbar Tap Type WW 0.275-40tpi NS GH2 No they didn't quote prices!! **Note this is for Drawbars NOT necessarily the correct spec for male threads cut on collets etc. I say this because it is known that the WW threads are originally an anglicized version of the original 8mm European sizes..of which there are MANY..most of which are interchangeable with WW collets, drawbars etc. It is also known that, in order to facilitate this interchangeability..drawbar threads are purposely cut to maximum sizes Thus, if you have a drawbar tapped to the above spec..either .275-40 tpi H2 or the equivalent metric size 6mm x .625mm you can use WW or 8mm collets in it from all the following manufacturers..my sizes are taken from "the Model Engineers Handbook" by ..Tubal Cain..the other guy..the REAL ONE as someone said!! 8mm collets from Adams, Boley, Boley-Leinen, Coronet, Derbyshire, Pultra and WW are all threaded 0.268-40 and will all be a fairly sloppy fit in your drawtube. 8mm collets from Wolf-Jahn are threaded 0.270-40 and will be a little tighter in your WW drawtube 8mm collets from I.M.E. and LORCH are threaded 0.275-40 (6mm-.0625) and will be a fairly snug fit in your drawbar. Now I uderstand the significance of Levin's blurb on the taps "these taps offer a convenient means of producing the matching threads WITH THE APPROPRIATE THREAD CLEARANCES" (Caps are mine) What is the point of all the above? Somewhat selfish..but hopefully helpful to those who have or contemplate buying a watchmaker's or other WW/8mm lathe in future. High quality collets of these types ar BRUTALLY expensive to buy new. I an most others will collect them slowly, from a variety of sources and be confronted with a whole slew of different manufacturers..as above, plus many, many more, It will be a comfort to know that a mixed batch of collets..Boley, Lorch, Levin, WW, etc. will ALL fit my Levin Lathe and that I can make a drawbar that will accomodate them all. My detailed interest in WW collets started over a year ago when I first contemplated using them in a Quorn type grinding spindle. In setting out to get dimensions ...just of WW collets I ran into a quagmire of conflicting and simply, missing information. It took until now for me to analyse all the bits and pieces and be able to set it down as above. I hope someone else will find it just as useful one day. Robert Bastow ======== Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking Subject: Re: Way Oil..The Kiss of Death! From: Robert Bastow Date: Tue, 02 Feb 1999 14:25:43 GMT -------- Doug White wrote: If you think you have a > better answer, you are welcome to your opinion. I'll stick with what the > pros do. > I AM A PRO Doug!! Six year apprenticeship in the Machine tool building industry as as toolmaker/machinist/machine builder. Service/ Commissioning engineer for ALFRED HERBERT..At one time the LARGEST machine tool builders in the WORLD... Ever heard of them? or DeVlieg or Churchill, Broadbent, Coventry Dieworks..all part of Herberts Thirty seven years in the Industry, Managed three different LARGE custom/jobbing machine/Tool and die shops. Owned Two (smaller thank God) machine shops of my own. Model Engineer and HSM for forty plus years. I have seen inside, pulled to pieces, sweated over, wept over,crawled in and crawled over, bought and sold, rescued, rebuilt and scrapped more machine tools that your Hardinge "Operators" have had hot dinners. I know what I know and I am glad I am not paying for their ignorance. But to return to my post....and please re-read it Doug before going off half cocked again.. I simply stated for the reasons I set out..that "way oil" has no place in MY SHOP!! It doesn't now and, until I choose to buy the kind of equipment for which it is a BENEFIT not a DEATH SENTENCE...IT NEVER WILL HAVE!! Respectfully, Robert Bastow ======== Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking Subject: Re: Metric Threading on SB 9" model A From: Robert Bastow Date: Tue, 02 Feb 1999 16:07:39 GMT -------- Depending on the material involved and the length of engagement required I doubt that you, the pen, or your customer will notice the difference between 36 1/4 tpi and 36 tpi. That should be obtainable (I am no expert on South Bends) on your machine one way or another If the thread engagement is over 1/2" long you might want to consider making a trial barrel out of a softer (sacrificial) material first..just to be sure of how the land lies!! Robert Bastow Doug Speck wrote: > > I'd use 36 1/4, but how do I set that on the QC gearbox? It only does > whole number threads, as far as I can make out from the plate. ======== Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking Subject: Re: Way Oil..The Kiss of Death! From: Robert Bastow Date: Tue, 02 Feb 1999 16:45:05 GMT -------- Some people didn't receive this original post and I have been asked to repeat it.... Kevin Pinkerton wrote: > > I just got a quart sample of the ISO 68 (medium weight) Syn Way oil > from Royal Purple. It acts very tacky and leaves strings between the > fingers (like I would expect it to) very similar to the way Chain Saw > Bar oil does. > Personally I am very leery of "Way Oil"..Especially on home shop type machines. Understand that this stuff is developed and formulated for Industrial machines, working under arduous, heavily loaded conditions THAT ARE DESIGNED ESPECIALLY TO USE IT. By that I mean that their ways are as fully protected from chips, scale and dust as possible..by mechanical design and layout. Secondly, they use way protectors and wipers that cost more to replace than most of us would consider paying for a complete work shop of machines. Thirdly they are used with timed or constant flow lube systems designed to flush, filter and recirculate way oil constantly. Lastly, those machines, expensive as they are, after a short life of careful, scheduled maintenance, are..in the final analysis...DISPOSABLE!! Like your hard earned machines RIGHT?? In other words..every thing is done to prevent contamination of the lube..and prevent that contaminated lube from being carried UNDER the way wipers and into the (Expensive) guts of the machine. Now consider your precious HS Mill or Lathe. Sure, especially on a mill, the ways are out of sight and SOMEWHAT protected from flying debris. But, remember the last job you did on cast iron..Or scaly, hot rolled steel? Boy how the dust flew..took weeks to rid the shop of it didn't it? Well I got bad news for you...some of it is still there, trapped in that lovely sticky, flypaper-like WAY OIL that does such a good job of sticking to your ways EVEN WHEN those half-assed, half worn wipers pass over it..thats what its supposed to do RIGHT?? Wrong, That sticky paste is the reason machine tool rebuilders have a business..that and the people who use an air gun to "clean down" their machines. (A whole other subject!!) So what should the HSM use? what do *I* use? SCRUPULOUS CLEANLINESS..I wipe the ways on my lathe EVERY time I traverse the saddle any distance and RE-OIL with a squirt of 10W MOTOR OIL...Yeah the stuff with DETERGENTS in it!! Why? Because I WANT all that sh*t held in suspension and flushed out where I can wipe it off in a couple of minutes. How do I know my ways get lubed UNDER the carriage? Because the stuff gets past the rinky-dink wipers that, even I, only replace once or twice a year. Controversial? Obsessive/compulsive? Not if you value, enjoy and respect, the knife edge precision I have slowly built up in my machinery.. I have reground, rescraped and rebuilt MY kit, for the last time in MY lifetime! I have no place for "way oil" in my shop!! Robert Bastow..With asbestos knickers in place!! 8^) ======== Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking Subject: Re: Sachs - Wankel rotary engines From: Robert Bastow Date: Tue, 02 Feb 1999 16:59:02 GMT -------- Janos Ero wrote of the NSU Ro 80: > > This car was only sold in Germany, as no maintenance was available abroad. They were quite popular in the UK for a period..the styling was WAY ahead of its time and would not look out of place on today's roads. Sorta rounded wedge..not unlike today's Chryslers IIRC. Very comfortable, handled well, quite sparkly performance..sold like hot cakes. And then...And then..ER.ER!! Along came the maintenance and repairs and spares and rust and gas mileage and paint problems ..and....and.....and.... PLONK!! And we all know what PLONK means..Don't we!! Robert Bastow ======== Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking Subject: Re: 8mm / WW tap From: Robert Bastow Date: Tue, 02 Feb 1999 20:51:22 GMT -------- As you can see..it is a real can of worms!! Let me know (directly too please Steve) what you come up with so I can correlate it with information from other sources. Three "Reliable" reference sources have come up with three, significantly different sets of dimensions for 8mm Boleys and WW collets from different makers in the US. Thanks, Robert Steve Rayner wrote: > > > > Please note that some Wolfjahns collets will NOT fit well in a Boley > lathe! The Wolfjahns Mandrell ( Faceplate ) will fit my Boley, but the few > collets I have won't. Fortunately I have a complete set of Boley collets > in wire sizes, as well as wax chucks & step chucks. I will have to dig out > the six jaw ring chuck, and see what make it is. > > Robert Bastow (Tubal_cain@hotmail.com) wrote: > : It appears I made an error in the metric equivalent of the WW thread. > > : Somehow, I equated 40 tpi with 40thou which equals 1mm pitch! > > : DUH!! > > : 40 tpi = 0.625mm pitch > > : The correct "American" thread for WW collet DRAWBARS** is, according to the > : Levin catalogue, faxed to me two days ago: > > : Catalogue No 0031-01 Drawbar Tap Type WW 0.275-40tpi NS GH2 > > : No they didn't quote prices!! > > : **Note this is for Drawbars NOT necessarily the correct spec for male threads > : cut on collets etc. > > : I say this because it is known that the WW threads are originally an anglicized > : version of the original 8mm European sizes..of which there are MANY..most of > : which are interchangeable with WW collets, drawbars etc. > > : It is also known that, in order to facilitate this interchangeability..drawbar > : threads are purposely cut to maximum sizes > > : Thus, if you have a drawbar tapped to the above spec..either .275-40 tpi H2 or > : the equivalent metric size 6mm x .625mm you can use WW or 8mm collets in it from > : all the following manufacturers..my sizes are taken from "the Model Engineers > : Handbook" by ..Tubal Cain..the other guy..the REAL ONE as someone said!! > > : 8mm collets from Adams, Boley, Boley-Leinen, Coronet, Derbyshire, Pultra and WW > : are all threaded 0.268-40 and will all be a fairly sloppy fit in your > : drawtube. > > : 8mm collets from Wolf-Jahn are threaded 0.270-40 and will be a little tighter in > : your WW drawtube > > : 8mm collets from I.M.E. and LORCH are threaded 0.275-40 (6mm-.0625) and will be > : a fairly snug fit in your drawbar. > > : Now I uderstand the significance of Levin's blurb on the taps "these taps offer > : a convenient means of producing the matching threads WITH THE APPROPRIATE THREAD > : CLEARANCES" (Caps are mine) > > : What is the point of all the above? > > : Somewhat selfish..but hopefully helpful to those who have or contemplate buying > : a watchmaker's or other WW/8mm lathe in future. High quality collets of these > : types ar BRUTALLY expensive to buy new. I an most others will collect them > : slowly, from a variety of sources and be confronted with a whole slew of > : different manufacturers..as above, plus many, many more, > > : It will be a comfort to know that a mixed batch of collets..Boley, Lorch, > : Levin, WW, etc. will ALL fit my Levin Lathe and that I can make a drawbar that > : will accomodate them all. > > : My detailed interest in WW collets started over a year ago when I first > : contemplated using them in a Quorn type grinding spindle. In setting out to get > : dimensions ...just of WW collets I ran into a quagmire of conflicting and > : simply, missing information. It took until now for me to analyse all the bits > : and pieces and be able to set it down as above. > > : I hope someone else will find it just as useful one day. > > : Robert Bastow > > -- > > I'm a Canadian eh! Steve. > ************************************************************************** > The FAQ for rec.crafts.metalworking is at: http://w3.uwyo.edu/~metal > The metalworking drop box is at http://208.213.200.132 > ************************************************************************** > Visit my website at: http://www.victoria.tc.ca/~ud233/homepage.htm > > ************* Tu ne cede malis, sed contra audentior ito. **************** > ******************************** - Virgil ******************************** > ******Yield thou not to adversity, but press on the more bravely.********** ======== Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking Subject: Re: Block boring From: Robert Bastow Date: Tue, 02 Feb 1999 21:04:13 GMT -------- I willingly defer to an Expert..I guess I have read too many copies of "Cart and Dribbler" and believed it when they said that modern, thin wall blocks "gotta have a torque plate" Perhaps I'll shut up and stick to my areas of expertise!! Robert Bastow Who is now looking for a News Group that covers Fish and Chips, Yorkshire Pudding...and the incidence of ingrown toenails in Lesser Striped Mongolian Mongooses...Know of one? PumaRacing wrote: > > >Subject: Re: Block boring > >From: Robert Bastow > >Date: 2/2/99 5:44AM GMT > >Message-id: <36B53F9D.C7ACB921@hotmail.com> > > > >All that plus.. > > > >A pukka engine reborer will have the required "False Head"..A block of thick > >steel, prebored to clear the bar..that he can torque down on the block to > >bring > >it to its actual running configuration while it is being bored and honed..All > >in > >less time than it will take you to bolt it down on your mill table so it > >don't > >move..too much! > > No he won't ! - only once in a blue moon and only for very common blocks do you > find anyone with a "torque plate" to bore and hone them with. In the USA you > certainly have plates for standard V8s cos there are shit loads of em about. > Over here I have never seen a block bored with a torque plate in 20 years of > building engines. 1 or 2 firms have plates for certain types of race engine if > you think the extra cost is worth while. There are too many types of engine and > not enough of each one for it to be cost effective to make the plates up. > > For road use, (and most race engines) torque plates are a complete waste of > time anyway. For some thin walled engines taken to flat out drag race spec they > allow you to gap the rings a tad tighter but it's debatable if any extra real > power shows up at the end of the day. > > Dave Baker at Puma Race Engines (London - England) - specialist flow > development and engine work. . PumaRacing wrote: > > >Subject: Re: Block boring > >From: Robert Bastow > >Date: 2/2/99 5:44AM GMT > >Message-id: <36B53F9D.C7ACB921@hotmail.com> > > > >All that plus.. > > > >A pukka engine reborer will have the required "False Head"..A block of thick > >steel, prebored to clear the bar..that he can torque down on the block to > >bring > >it to its actual running configuration while it is being bored and honed..All > >in > >less time than it will take you to bolt it down on your mill table so it > >don't > >move..too much! > > No he won't ! - only once in a blue moon and only for very common blocks do you > find anyone with a "torque plate" to bore and hone them with. In the USA you > certainly have plates for standard V8s cos there are shit loads of em about. > Over here I have never seen a block bored with a torque plate in 20 years of > building engines. 1 or 2 firms have plates for certain types of race engine if > you think the extra cost is worth while. There are too many types of engine and > not enough of each one for it to be cost effective to make the plates up. > > For road use, (and most race engines) torque plates are a complete waste of > time anyway. For some thin walled engines taken to flat out drag race spec they > allow you to gap the rings a tad tighter but it's debatable if any extra real > power shows up at the end of the day. > > Dave Baker at Puma Race Engines (London - England) - specialist flow > development and engine work. . ======== Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking Subject: Re: Way Oil..THE FIRST INTELLIGENT RESPONSE From: Robert Bastow Date: Tue, 02 Feb 1999 21:18:59 GMT -------- So Alex, I resisted my first urge to simply PLONK that unbelievably knowledgeable and obviously (for you) clearly thought out and SO ELOQUENTLY constructed remark. Would it be stretching you a little too much perhaps, to ask you; what is the sum of your experience, in and thoughts on the practice and theory of the use of way oil in the Home shop as opposed to its many, perfectly correct uses in industry. That's if you ever DO stop to think before you open your big yap!! Contemptuously...But after all Alex..It IS a free country!! Robert Bastow Alex Rein hold wrote: > > On Tue, 02 Feb 1999 05:15:22 GMT, Robert Bastow > wrote: > > Robert- > You are so full of shit it's unbelievable. But hey, it's a > free country. > > Alex ======== Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking Subject: Re: Speeds and feeds horizontal milling From: Robert Bastow Date: Tue, 02 Feb 1999 23:33:41 GMT -------- Brian Evans wrote: > > Read with interest the discussion on feeds and speeds > > Any advice from anyone who's had some horizontal milling experience? > > Thanks, Brian Milling speeds and feeds are a real can of worms..not because there aren't readily available GUIDELINES..but simply because different people have different (honest) opinions based upon a whole range of different experiences. THE ONE CONSTANT FACTOR IS CUTTING SPEED IN FEET PER MINUTE..It doesn't matter whether I am using a 1" diameter slitting saw on my lathe cross slide, or you are running a 10" diameter x 12" long slab mill on a 60 HP Cincinnati mill..if we are both using HSS cutters on hot rolled steel, we are both limited to the 80 to 100 surface feet per minute. You may find it hard to believe that, during a six year apprenticeship, during which I ran SCORES of different mills..from the teensiest Instrument Mill to 48 foot Planer Mills...I never was taught, nor did I find it necessary to apply any "magic formulae" But the reason for that is simple..THERE AREN'T ANY!! The objective is to remove metal as quickly (therefore economically) as possible. In the early days of (particularly horizontal) Mills it was common practice for manufacturers to rate and compare them in terms of "CUBIC INCHES OF METAL REMOVED PER MINUTE" And, believe me, some of those old slabmillers could shift IMPRESSIVE amounts of metal. But there are so many other variables..some you have control over..width and depth of cut, feed per tooth, coolant, tool geometry, SHARPNESS!! etc. And there are a whole HOST more, that you , generally, do NOT have control over..Age and CONDITION of the machine. Size of the machine, rigidity of its design, its dynamic behaviour under load. the part itself, its rigidity and clamping etc etc. Heck a Kray Mainfrain couldn't calculate all the "BEST" parameters for all the jobs and all the machines in a large shop. So how DID we do it? As do it we did..most Jobs were "on ticket" ...piecework! Commensurate with meeting specs. on fit and finish..we were paid to shift metal as fast as possible. In reality it was nowhere as complicated as one might imagine! Get a job ticket, go to machine..never seen it before! Clamp down job, install cutters. Quick reference to Starrett Chart pinned in lid of tool box (No-body figured it out in their head..the chart was quicker, especially on a Monday morning!!) X" dia at 90 ft/min = Y rev/min. Crank the speed change dial (on most CINCI's, Kearney & Trecker, Herbert's etc the speed and feed changes were through crank handles on large dials. Now set the depth and width of cut. HMMmm! In MOST cases the fastest way to shift metal was to engage as much of the cutter as possible get as many teeth cutting as wide and deep as possible at the same time.."Bury the Bugger" the saying went. That way you removed more metal per tooth, per rev and were less likely to wear the cutter out before the job was done Limiting factors..HP..got MORE than enough. Machine rigidity..slide conditions etc...NO IDEA..never seen the bugger before..only one way to find out though!! What's next..the work piece..this one is sturdy enough to take some "elbow"...Set Up..NO PROBLEM..we soon learned to fasten things down so Dynamite wouldn't shift 'em..before tickling them with fifty plus Horsepower. Whats left?..the FEED rate..you know, how many thou per tooth per rev..I have absolutely NO IDEA until all the other factors start inter-acting and the whole stage play gets into the dress rehersal. Curtain up time, light a fresh fag and take a last swig of cold tea. Lights, curtain.. One last check around...spindle clear, feed disengaged, SAFETY CHECK..these machines are NOT fitted with an "OUCH" switch. No "oily rags" about (apprentices rubbernecking) No laborer shoveling chips out of the back of the machine. Bootlaces tied, floor clean and dry..two or three clear escape routes..nothing to trip or fall over. Did I mention safety glasses? Safety WHAT?? Deep breath. Concentrate. Start spindle. Coolant, GENTLY feed cutter into job BY HAND. Feel the cut, feel the whole set up shuddering and settling into equilibrium as the cutter digs deeper and the motor starts to push some serious horspower into its job slowly build up the hand feed rate until the cutter is "Buried"..In full depth and width. Continue to gradually increase the feed rate, as every sense and instict strains for any sign of trouble. So far so good..you figured the right starting points..now you and the machine begin to understand each other and trust starts to grow..We are NOT going to hurt each other or let each other down are we!!!..Still gradually increasing the hand feed pressure..the machine, now all the slack is taken up, all the castings have bent and bedded into unity..is READY!! Quick check of the chips, cutter seems happy coolant flow good...You're READY. NOW!! Lets show them what we REALLY CAN DO!! start to crank the feed faster and faster until you feel that first shuuder of discomfort..back off a bit...engage power feed and crank the selector handle fast until you start to feel the power feed catch up with and overtake your hand feed. Ease off on the crank handle..let the machine take over..But don't let go yet..Every sense organ is tuned in as the machine settles down to a steady pace after its quick acceleration..everything feels, sounds, smells, good....turn up the feed another notch..settles down..happy..turn it another...settles happy...turn it another,,machine grunts..unhappy..turn it back...happy. You just arrived at the CORRECT FEED PER TOOTH !!!! Slowly you relax, letting your hands creep away from the knobs and handles..the machine munches on..in equilibrium..chips and coolant sound like frying bacon..machine is bunched into and happy with its job. You turn to find the cigarette..after that first puff..has burned away. Light another. wipe your hands..gradually your senses retreat from the machine. as it does what it does best..shifting metal. You have a bond of trust now. You and that Machine. It will let you know in good time..in your secret language..if something start to go amiss. It trusts you, to hear and respond, before any harm befalls it. You are a team now..both doing the job you do best. Now you realise your throat is dry!! no cold tea left, check the clock check the job...ten minutes left "in cut", before you need to stop and replace the workpiece. You turn, and without a backward glance, you stride confidently toward the canteen for a welcome "cuppa" On the way we happen to meet.."Hey Robert" you ask "what feed rate are you using on that job?" "Haven't a clue" say I "go check the dials..I'm off for a cuppa!!" It may not be the answer you want Brian..But I'm afraid it's the only one I can give you! Happy milling. Robert Bastow ======== Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking Subject: Re: Metal sculptures From: Robert Bastow Date: Wed, 03 Feb 1999 03:25:28 GMT -------- Hey Wanda, if you like metal in ANY of its multitude of forms you ARE in the right place and welcome here. Not many of us know much about glass/cera...Hey better shut my Big mouth What people on the list know about never ceases to amaze me!! So feel free to stick around "Lurk" if you want to..weigh in if you feel like it..ask questions and more questions. Hey, you teach us about YOUR metal and we'll teach you about OURS. DEAL? Robert Bastow Wanda Thomas wrote: > > Boy, I see all this stuff about belt pulleys and lathes and I think I'm > in the wrong group, but let me try my question anyway... > > I saw advertised in a catalog some metal sculptures (copper) with a > ceramic glass finish on some of the metal parts. The ad said they were > made in Connecticut. Does anyone have any info, web sites, email or > anything where I can get more info on these? > > My apologies if this is not the correct group.... > > -- > Extinct is forever, > > Wanda Thomas > > http://members.xoom.com/wandathomas > ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ > "You can't keep a bird from landing on your head... > But you can keep it from building a nest there. -- Mom > ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ ======== Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking Subject: Re: eBay Humor & 1200 tons of steel From: Robert Bastow Date: Wed, 03 Feb 1999 03:31:27 GMT -------- Hey Tom, I had seen it but didn't quite think I could swing the whole deal myself! But hey Good Buddy..if you're in that's good enough for me..count on me for a corner. If you want the majority I'm sure we can find somebody willing to take the other 25 cents. Robert AZOTIC wrote: > > I was just scanning ebay and thought this might be of interest > > Item # 60932789 > > Ad reads: > > 1200 tons of steel ready to ship. > > no reserve, current bid $1.20 > > Maybe someone could buy it for $2.00 and make some money. > > Best Regards > Tom. ======== Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking Subject: Re: Way Oil..The Kiss of Death! From: Robert Bastow Date: Wed, 03 Feb 1999 03:53:53 GMT -------- Ooohh! sounds like a sore nerve was hit here! An almost credible response from a guy who (It just so happens) seems to make a living from selling this stuff. Hey this can really be relied on as ballanced Warren Lemoi wrote: > Snip a whole lot of smooth but irrelevant technical stuff about what way lubes are supposed to do and how they do it. Hey if you read my post without that purple haze of rage in front of you you might have noticed I didn't raise a single objection to the stuff in the right application I have bought and used thousands of gallons of the stuff. Buddy when you only got one shot you had better aim it at the right target!! > Luvox 300mg q day should help. And right there, Mister Lemoi, is where you lost not only the argument..but the right to a fair hearing if I know this group. Certainly you lowered youself to a level that I will not descend to so this discussion is over! Grow up, learn some manners and in a few years lets talk again. You are dismissed. Robert Bastow ======== Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking Subject: Re: what size level do I need From: Robert Bastow Date: Wed, 03 Feb 1999 05:18:04 GMT -------- I have to second Jims thoughts on this..level is nice, but it is TURNING results that count in the end. You can set up to levels and test bars all day long.. but until you cut metal and measure THOSE results you truly have nothing but a guess and by golly as to how all the different bits interact DYNAMICALLY! Robert Bastow > I just use a 6 inch carpenter's level when I start to set machines > up. Just because I don't like the tools rolling around in the chip > pan. After that, I use the collars on the test bar. > > Have fun with your new toy! > > Jim > > -----------== Posted via Deja News, The Discussion Network ==---------- > http://www.dejanews.com/ Search, Read, Discuss, or Start Your Own ======== Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking Subject: Re: Way Oil..The Kiss of Death! From: Robert Bastow Date: Wed, 03 Feb 1999 07:16:52 GMT -------- Warren Lemoi wrote: > (Snip irrelevancies) > I will post here no longer and let this die out. > -- PLONK ======== Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking Subject: Re: Way Oil..The Kiss of Death! From: Robert Bastow Date: Wed, 03 Feb 1999 07:27:40 GMT -------- Jon Banquer wrote: > > >> Luvox 300mg q day should help. > > Is Luvox in the same class as Paxil and Prozac ? > Meaning, they both (I think) increase the saratonin (sp ?) > level to the brain. This make the neurons in your brain fire > faster or slower ? How about Zanex what does that do ? > > This area of medicine seems to have taken off. Lets see > if we can make this discussion semi-productive. Can you > fill me in on the details. > > jon > Er! excuse me Jon..but what the #$%& does this have to do with Way Oil, Metal working, or the price of tea in China for that matter!! It just so happens I have been on Seratonin uptake blockers for years as the result of lifelong, Clinical Depression and a Nervous Breakdown, This forum is a vital part of my therapy and I would rather not have you or anyone else cross post here on that particular subject. Go to alt. morbid medical curiosities.com, or someplace..ANY place, else with it. Yes..you touched, probably, the ONLY raw nerve I have in my Body!! Robert Bastow ======== Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking Subject: Re: Speeds and feeds horizontal milling From: Robert Bastow Date: Wed, 03 Feb 1999 07:30:04 GMT -------- James P. Riser wrote: > > Robert; > Wonderful post! Thanks for the benefit of your experience. BTW - what kind > of oil were you using on that machine? 8-) > Jim Back off Jim..Back off ;^) ======== Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking Subject: Re: What's wrong with way oil? From: Robert Bastow Date: Wed, 03 Feb 1999 08:33:08 GMT -------- Thanks for you polite posting Jim. It deserves a polite response. I think (obviously) a lot of people are missing the whole crux of my viewpoint..the use of way oil in the HOME SHOP and particularly in MY SHOP. I am well aware as I have stated several times, of the properties, purposes and uses of way-oil..especially in industry and especially in machines designed to use it. Our late lamented and dear departed recent snide-sniper made a fuss about Stick-slip. I was doing stick slip research on early, hardwired NC machine tools thirty years ago. It is a major problem with machine tools that can be and often are, programmed to move tons of weight by steps of a tenth of a thou. But on a Bridgeport mill or a South bend lathe..I doubt you could detect it..neaver mind measure it. My research was done on forty ton BROADBENT Oil Country Lathe..30 inches THROUGH the headstock. I found those skinny little slip-sticks pretty elusive!! It is STICKY to stay on vertical surfaces and to maintain a film under EXTREME pressure ADMIRABLE!! But my Maximat Super II don't have non o' they vermiculite...vermita..that wot you said, faces. And Bridgeports sure don't exert the kind of unit surface pressures he is talking about. But you touched on the down side Jim. Dust! it isn't chips that wreck machines it is the constant lapping away of vital metal surfaces by entrapped abrasive DUST particles. I have "Opened up" countless, ruined machine slides and never found chips..they're too big to get in there. What I do find is a dark brown, abrasive, GUNK, that results from a mixture of way oil, rancid residue from soluble cutting oils (Won't use them either..so there) plus Iron Oxide! Iron Oxide? yeh..you know...Rust..Caused by soluble oils, the scale off hot rolled steel, the skin off iron castings and that batch of rusty pipe fittings you machined last year. Anyone know another name for Iron oxide..ground very fine?..did I hear "Jewellers Rouge"? thats right..it is a helluva good abrasive, Now, Jim, I want to machine some hot rolled steel today. Clean the machine down, wipe the ways clean and apply a fresh coating of that nice gentleman's thick, gooey, sticky, extreme pressure, Way-Oil on all the ways we can find. Ain't gonna be no starved bearig surfaces or those invidious little stick-slips aroun my lathe Jim. Wow this stuff is really tenacious..see how even those new wipers can't scrape it off the bedways..they just ride right over it and leave a nice thin film to go ALL the way under the slides. Let's cut metal Jim, I love machining that good hot rolled stuff..lots easier than cold rolled. My only beef is that reddish dust that comes off it. I wonder what it is? OK stay with me on this one Jim..where is that dust going? Yeh, right all over the place...but some of it falls on that nice film of sticky oil that is protecting our bed ways. Then the wipers will wipe it off so it doesn't get into the slides? NOoo this stuff is designed to be almost unwipeable.. So the dusty oil goes into the slides and then you clean it out?.. NO..once those tiny but sharp and hard little boogers get in there..you cant get at them. Anyway, they just love to snuggle up between those smooth steel and iron surfaces and just kinda burrow in there. Isn't that kinda like a LAP?? Sure is Jim!! Hey why don't we go and do this stuff on Your lathe Jim? Drop dead Robert!! ======== Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking Subject: Re: Help identify this lathe and win a cheese From: Robert Bastow Date: Wed, 03 Feb 1999 21:51:22 GMT -------- PLAlbrecht wrote: > > Hey, you didn't say if anybody won the cheese. By the way, what kind of cheese > is it? > > Red Leicester? (afraid we're fresh out...) > Tilsit? (Never at the end of the week) > Caerphilly? (been on order for two weeks) (snip.Mouthwatering list of some of the world's finest cheeses) > What cheese DO you have then? > > Pete Hey Pete, you must shop at the same store that I do. Their Idea of an "International Cheese Counter" has : 10 varieties of (processed) Brie, but no Camambert 20 varieties of Danish Blue, but no Roquefort 100 varieties of red plastic coated Edam..UGH!!..for which there IS no Upmarket equivalent. I swear that Edam was developed as a wartime substitute for rubber..but somehow along the way the flavor got WORSE!! Robert Bastow Who would Kill for a bit of Caerphilly , Lancashire or Wensleydale! ======== Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking Subject: Re: Way Oil..The Kiss of Death! From: Robert Bastow Date: Wed, 03 Feb 1999 22:11:01 GMT -------- Finally found a way to get a nasty dig in did you Kurt?? I make it a rule however never to fight in the mud with a pig... You both get dirty but the Pig enjoys it. However I have another rule never to let a lie or a slur go unanswered lest it be construed as the truth by others. You my friend are not telling the truth and I am going to dig out the correspondence we had on this subject, several months ago..before I, on several occassions,made you look the Idiot you are. I have been asked this same question many times by current members of this list..so don't imagine that you go un-noticed. Meanwhile I am going to ask Fred..to whom I had already responded on his private request..to please post that answer here for all to see. Kurt, I feel sorry for you because I know you are not man enough to retract that remark or apologise. So I will consider our once harmononious relationship at at am end and trust you will enjoy your.. PLONK Cordially Robert Bastow Meanwhile I am going to ask Kurt Bjorn wrote: > > No, I already asked this question. He simply ripped off the guy's pen name. > > -- > Guy Lautard > > VICTORCAP wrote in message <19990203150601.10998.00000050@ng58.aol.com>... > >are you "the" Tubal Cain, author of all the wonderful books on model > >engineering that have brought me so much pleasure over the years? > >thanks, > >fred ======== Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking Subject: Re: 8mm / WW tap From: Robert Bastow Date: Wed, 03 Feb 1999 22:17:06 GMT -------- Thanks Steve, I will "fold "this in with the information I continue to collect and hope one day..we may never "Rationalise" it all but at least we may have some reliable documentation. Robert Bastow Steve Rayner wrote: > > The dimensions that I use for 8MM collets, came from an old table > published in the Model Engineer Plans Book years ago. They match the > dimensions of the Boley collets I have. The threads of the Wolfjahns > collets fit my Boley drawbar, but the collet body is slightly too big for > the Boley headstock. I expect that it was a marketing thing! The > Wolfjahns collets were much less costly than Boley. I suspect that each > lathe maker was trying to force the use of their own accessories. I > suspect that my Wolfjahns mandrel was polished down to fit the Boley. > ............Ok! I just removed the ring chuck from the lathe, it too is > Wolfjahns. Some years ago a friend tried his chuck of this make in my > lathe, and it was too fat. It also didn't fit any of the three Boley > Standard lathes he had. > > Robert Bastow (Tubal_cain@hotmail.com) wrote: > : As you can see..it is a real can of worms!! > > : Let me know (directly too please Steve) what you come up with so I can correlate > : it with information from other sources. > > : Three "Reliable" reference sources have come up with three, significantly > : different sets of dimensions for 8mm Boleys and WW collets from different makers > : in the US. > > : Thanks, > > : Robert > > : Steve Rayner wrote: > : > > : > > : > > : > Please note that some Wolfjahns collets will NOT fit well in a Boley > : > lathe! The Wolfjahns Mandrell ( Faceplate ) will fit my Boley, but the few > : > collets I have won't. Fortunately I have a complete set of Boley collets > : > in wire sizes, as well as wax chucks & step chucks. I will have to dig out > : > the six jaw ring chuck, and see what make it is. > : > > : > Robert Bastow (Tubal_cain@hotmail.com) wrote: > : > : It appears I made an error in the metric equivalent of the WW thread. > : > > : > : Somehow, I equated 40 tpi with 40thou which equals 1mm pitch! > : > > : > : DUH!! > : > > : > : 40 tpi = 0.625mm pitch > : > > : > : The correct "American" thread for WW collet DRAWBARS** is, according to the > : > : Levin catalogue, faxed to me two days ago: > : > > : > : Catalogue No 0031-01 Drawbar Tap Type WW 0.275-40tpi NS GH2 > : > > : > : No they didn't quote prices!! > : > > : > : **Note this is for Drawbars NOT necessarily the correct spec for male threads > : > : cut on collets etc. > : > > : > : I say this because it is known that the WW threads are originally an anglicized > : > : version of the original 8mm European sizes..of which there are MANY..most of > : > : which are interchangeable with WW collets, drawbars etc. > : > > : > : It is also known that, in order to facilitate this interchangeability..drawbar > : > : threads are purposely cut to maximum sizes > : > > : > : Thus, if you have a drawbar tapped to the above spec..either .275-40 tpi H2 or > : > : the equivalent metric size 6mm x .625mm you can use WW or 8mm collets in it from > : > : all the following manufacturers..my sizes are taken from "the Model Engineers > : > : Handbook" by ..Tubal Cain..the other guy..the REAL ONE as someone said!! > : > > : > : 8mm collets from Adams, Boley, Boley-Leinen, Coronet, Derbyshire, Pultra and WW > : > : are all threaded 0.268-40 and will all be a fairly sloppy fit in your > : > : drawtube. > : > > : > : 8mm collets from Wolf-Jahn are threaded 0.270-40 and will be a little tighter in > : > : your WW drawtube > : > > : > : 8mm collets from I.M.E. and LORCH are threaded 0.275-40 (6mm-.0625) and will be > : > : a fairly snug fit in your drawbar. > : > > : > : Now I uderstand the significance of Levin's blurb on the taps "these taps offer > : > : a convenient means of producing the matching threads WITH THE APPROPRIATE THREAD > : > : CLEARANCES" (Caps are mine) > : > > : > : What is the point of all the above? > : > > : > : Somewhat selfish..but hopefully helpful to those who have or contemplate buying > : > : a watchmaker's or other WW/8mm lathe in future. High quality collets of these > : > : types ar BRUTALLY expensive to buy new. I an most others will collect them > : > : slowly, from a variety of sources and be confronted with a whole slew of > : > : different manufacturers..as above, plus many, many more, > : > > : > : It will be a comfort to know that a mixed batch of collets..Boley, Lorch, > : > : Levin, WW, etc. will ALL fit my Levin Lathe and that I can make a drawbar that > : > : will accomodate them all. > : > > : > : My detailed interest in WW collets started over a year ago when I first > : > : contemplated using them in a Quorn type grinding spindle. In setting out to get > : > : dimensions ...just of WW collets I ran into a quagmire of conflicting and > : > : simply, missing information. It took until now for me to analyse all the bits > : > : and pieces and be able to set it down as above. > : > > : > : I hope someone else will find it just as useful one day. > : > > : > : Robert Bastow > : > > : > -- > : > > : > I'm a Canadian eh! Steve. > : > ************************************************************************** > : > The FAQ for rec.crafts.metalworking is at: http://w3.uwyo.edu/~metal > : > The metalworking drop box is at http://208.213.200.132 > : > ************************************************************************** > : > Visit my website at: http://www.victoria.tc.ca/~ud233/homepage.htm > : > > : > ************* Tu ne cede malis, sed contra audentior ito. **************** > : > ******************************** - Virgil ******************************** > : > ******Yield thou not to adversity, but press on the more bravely.********** > > -- > > I'm a Canadian eh! Steve. > ************************************************************************** > The FAQ for rec.crafts.metalworking is at: http://w3.uwyo.edu/~metal > The metalworking drop box is at http://208.213.200.132 > ************************************************************************** > Visit my website at: http://www.victoria.tc.ca/~ud233/homepage.htm > > ************* Tu ne cede malis, sed contra audentior ito. **************** > ******************************** - Virgil ******************************** > ******Yield thou not to adversity, but press on the more bravely.********** ======== Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking Subject: Re: Way Oil..The Kiss of Death! From: Robert Bastow Date: Wed, 03 Feb 1999 22:27:18 GMT -------- Thanks Mike, a friend indeed. By the way the "tubalcain" is in lower case in DEFERENCE as well as "IN MEMORIAM" to that Great Mentor. Further, I never "sign" myself as such. What matter, 'tis of no import to me whether Kurt " Guy Lautard" Bjorn tells the truth or not. Enough of the people I REALLY care about know the the TRUE story and understand my motives. Sincerely, Robert Bastow Mike Graham wrote: > > "Kurt Bjorn" wrote: > > >No, I already asked this question. He simply ripped off the guy's pen name. > > > >-- > >Guy Lautard > > Why is it that "Kurt Bjorn" who signs his messages "Guy Lautard" has > a hard time with Robert Bastow using the name Tubal Cain in memory of > the original? > > Mike Graham mike@headwaters.com > > Mangler of metal. User of many grinding disks. > Cut with an axe, beat to fit, paint to match. ======== Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking Subject: Re: Graziano SAG180 info please From: Robert Bastow Date: Wed, 03 Feb 1999 22:37:04 GMT -------- Ole-Hjalmar Kristensen wrote: > Try http://www.graziano.it > > I believe the quality of the Graziano lathes is very good in general. > -- > E pluribus Unix It is indeed a VERY high quality lathe in the best "toolroom" tradition. I had a couple in one of my own shops. The only downside is..(surprise)..The cost and availability of spare parts. But then again..They don't break often!! Robert Bastow ======== Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking Subject: Re: Help identify this lathe and win a cheese From: Robert Bastow Date: Thu, 04 Feb 1999 04:08:19 GMT -------- Hi Lennie, With your obvious and undoubted enthusiasm..plus the fact that people buy a TON...make that SH*T LOAD of Edam even my opinionated and, admitedly biased sensibilitis tell me ..I must be MISSING something here!! What is it..and where can I get an Edam Cheese that is representative of the BEST?? I will give you that point if you promise to let me then reach my own PERSONAL taste conclusions!! DEAL? Robert Bastow Lennie the Lurker wrote: > > In article <36B773CA.5E3F5730@hotmail.com>, > Robert Bastow wrote: > > > > > I swear that Edam was developed as a wartime substitute for rubber..but > somehow > > along the way the flavor got WORSE!! > > > > Robert Bastow > > > > Who would Kill for a bit of Caerphilly , Lancashire or Wensleydale! > > > > I'll take my Edam smoked, but only from Verne's in Wisconsin, must have good > liversausage from Milwaukee, and fresh coffee. Followed three days later > with a good way oil enema to get rid of it. Almost forgot, make that on rye > bread from Paiellis danish bakery(?). > > Richard > > "Measure with Micrometer" > "Mark with crayon" > "Cut with axe" > http://homestead.dejanews.com/user.rabue/index.html > > -----------== Posted via Deja News, The Discussion Network ==---------- > http://www.dejanews.com/ Search, Read, Discuss, or Start Your Own ======== Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking Subject: Re: Ebay and intelligence of bidders? From: Robert Bastow Date: Thu, 04 Feb 1999 04:41:10 GMT -------- As apprentices we were brain > washed into doing everything the 'Gov'mnt' way. > Often made me wonder if every time we went to the bog we were breaking some rule > by destroying Gov'mnt property. > -- > > Regards, > > John Stevenson > No John!! You were OK so long as you stuck to "Government Guidelines and Allowances" YOLUME 3392 (edition 19 rev 304).. ChVIIIpviipara5sec.xxviiivix subsection243page97para.51,line2 297ff.... And I quote.. "Three Sheets per Man, per Day" ...One UP.. ...One DOWN.. ...And One ACROSS...To POLISH!!! Remember the stuff you had to scrub between your knuckles to avoid friction burns and paper cuts? There was a downside when I moved here though! I couldn't break that..."pre-conditioning..Scrub between the Knuckles"...habit for a couple of weeks... until I realised I didn't need to do that with the local stuff!! Plus the fact..If I desisted, I need not spend half my day trying to extract my middle finger from my Fundament!! Robert Bastow ======== Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking Subject: Re: Way Oil..The Kiss of Death! From: Robert Bastow Date: Thu, 04 Feb 1999 05:05:55 GMT -------- Jens wrote: > > Robert, if you keep plonking people you will soon be talking to > yourself. Seems I have seen the 'plonk' numerous times from you in the > past little while. > > Jens PLONK!! ;^) And I mean that only HALF seriously Jens!! You have in the past earned my respect..but comments like that make me wonder if you are part of the solution..or by wimpy default, becoming part of the problem!! It is easy to say "lighten up" when you are a bystander, not subject to PERSONAL atack and abuse every time you come up with a bit of helpful advise, hard earned experience Seriously Jens, It seems like every time anyone comes up with any original thought around here, he publishes with the certain knowledge that the first reaction from "The Intelligentsia" is to imply you are a mental defective, uneducated lying, thieving, old fart!! I remember, not too long ago, when this was a fun place to be and, when the tone deteriated too far there were certain fair minded people that could be relied on to restore sanity. You USED to be one of those people Jens! Robert Bastow (tubalcain to anyone who gives a SHIT anymore) PLONK ======== Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking Subject: Re: Cutting thick rubber gaskets? From: Robert Bastow Date: Thu, 04 Feb 1999 17:10:30 GMT -------- Depending on quantity, a "Rule" die might be a good investment. Ask your local printer where he gets his. Robert Bastow Michael P. Henry wrote: > > At work we need to make some gaskets out of 1/4" thick rubber. They'll be > about 7" x 10" with some 3/8" holes, some slots and a 4" x 6" hole in the > center and we'll need about 10-20 of them. > > Is it worth trying to locate someone (preferably in the Chicago area) that > cut these for us with a die or should we just try to make them ourselves > with an Exacto knife or something similar? > > TIA Michael P. Henry wrote: > > At work we need to make some gaskets out of 1/4" thick rubber. They'll be > about 7" x 10" with some 3/8" holes, some slots and a 4" x 6" hole in the > center and we'll need about 10-20 of them. > > Is it worth trying to locate someone (preferably in the Chicago area) that > cut these for us with a die or should we just try to make them ourselves > with an Exacto knife or something similar? > > TIA ======== Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking Subject: Maximat Super II From: Robert Bastow Date: Thu, 04 Feb 1999 17:38:23 GMT -------- Can anyone out there with a Maximat Super II give me dimensions for the leadscrew brass shear pin. I know th o/d and length but need to know if it is "knecked" and how deeply. I discovered that mine had been replaced with a STEEL pin only AFTER I stripped the teeth off a VERY expensive 127t conversion gear! Ouch! Thanks, Robert Bastow ======== Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking Subject: Re:an end to bickering From: Robert Bastow Date: Thu, 04 Feb 1999 21:28:10 GMT -------- Rudy, I whole heartedly agree..certainly it has taken all the fun out of this ng for me. I therefore wholeheartedly offer my apologies to those I offended and hope they will accept and forgive Secondly, though *I* know my motives were pure in adopting the name of tubalcain "In memorium" I can well see how others might misconstrue..even resent this. After all Tubal Cain is a legend to a lot of us, and even if I had aspirations to fill his shoes (which I do NOT)..they are certainly too big for me. So this is the last post from tubal_cain@hotmail.com. Sorry you don't get rid of ME that easily though. My new address will be: teenut@Hotmail.com If anyone has any objections to THAT please let me know. Thanks, Robert Bastow Rudy Kohoupt wrote: > > Boys! Boys! > > Stop this foolish bickering! We're here because of our mutual love of > machining, metalworking, and ingenious design. We solve problems, not > start them. ======== To: Jens Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking Subject: Re: an end to bickering From: Robert Bastow Date: Thu, 04 Feb 1999 22:41:08 GMT -------- Just what I might have expected from you Jens ;^) Jens wrote: > > Robert Bastow wrote: > > My new address will be: > > > > teenut@Hotmail.com > > > >If anyone has any objections to THAT please let me know. > > What ???? Take our beloved tee nuts name in vain ..... shame on you > Robert :) > > Jens > > PS.: Sorry, couldn't resist .... ======== Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking Subject: Re: Clausing 6300 series lathe From: Robert Bastow Date: Fri, 05 Feb 1999 04:24:49 GMT -------- IIRC Morse 4 1/2 is quite common as it is used on Southbends..certainly the 13" model with D1-3 camlock nose I come across them more frequently than the 5 MT stuff I need for my maximat Murphy's Law I suppose. What are you looking for? (I missed the first part of the thread) I may be able to point you in the right direction. Robert Bastow > Daniel Becker wrote: > > > snip > > The factory told me that the head stock is a Morse taper 4 1/2. Where do I > > find such an animal? > > Turn it on your lathe. ======== Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking Subject: Re: Clausing 6300 series lathe From: Robert Bastow Date: Fri, 05 Feb 1999 04:26:07 GMT -------- IIRC Morse 4 1/2 is quite common as it is used on Southbends..certainly the 13" model with D1-3 camlock nose I come across them more frequently than the 5 MT stuff I need for my Maximat. Murphy's Law I suppose. What are you looking for? (I missed the first part of the thread) I may be able to point you in the right direction. Robert Bastow > Daniel Becker wrote: > > > snip > > The factory told me that the head stock is a Morse taper 4 1/2. Where do I > > find such an animal? > > Turn it on your lathe. ======== Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking Subject: Re: Snowed IN!!! From: Robert Bastow Date: Fri, 05 Feb 1999 14:31:08 GMT -------- > Everything worked fine until some day on the test stand > in the lab, the computer decided at 140 mph that it were time to > shift to bottom gear, and shifted to bottom gear. Brings to mind the recent string on "Idiot Proofing" The Jaguar has, what they call a "J Gate" Shifter... P 2 R 3 N D < D In the right hand leg of the "J" you have a standard 4 speed shifter, kick down + "sports" setting etc. Flip the shifter over to the left hand gate and you have an automatic "manual" gearbox at hand. All very versatile, smooth, etc. One Day, threading my way through medium heavy, fast moving traffic, I had been in and out of "manual" a few times. I saw a suitable gap, indicated left to change lanes and slammed the shifter into "3", flooring the gas at the same time. You guessed it!! Wrong gate!! 2 tons of V12 goes into REVERSE at 65 mph!!...It makes quite a big cloud of tire smoke. I took it into the dealer for a check out...no damage (except my pride) "happens all the time" the guy said!! Robert Bastow ======== Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking Subject: Re: Spanish Inquisition From: Robert Bastow Date: Fri, 05 Feb 1999 15:54:23 GMT -------- You're BAD, Bill! BAAAAD!! Robert Bastow Bill Machrone wrote: > > Jens wrote: > > > or put up a real ugly gigantic wooden building from scrap lumber found > > in the town dump > > This is strongly reminiscent of a "spite fence." My father built a > classic spite fence after our > clueless-city-bred-former-apartment-dweller neighbor put in central air, > with a heat exchanger that exhausted horizontally--right at our screened > back porch. In post-WW II suburbia, on 75 by 100 lots, you could feel > the heat. > > The fence was a sight to behold: Wood of every color and kind. Peeling > plywood. Rec-room paneling. Two-bys. Four-bys. Rough tongue-and-groove > flooring. Wedges driven into the earth. A sheet of aluminum. Some > galvanized ducting opened and hammered flat. A piece of corrugated > fiberglass. Big nails, bent over. Rusty sheet metal screws. > > This from a master craftsman who enjoyed working to "half a tenth" and > used to make me practice filing brass and driving nails. > > The neighbor came over, wanted to know what all the fuss was about. Dad > refused to tell him--told him to figure it out for himself. Dad could > have put a lot less effort into making a 90 degree deflector out of > sheet metal for the thing, and it would have looked factory. But > retribution for the neighbor's inconsiderateness was more important, at > least to Dad. > > The neighbor was an optometrist by trade, but had no interest in or > orientation to the physical/mechanical world beyond eyeglasses. > Optometry was a respectable profession for a nice Jewish boy from the > Bronx, and it began and ended there. > > When I was a teenager, the same neighbor got spotlights for his driveway > and aimed them more at the side of our house than at the driveway. They > shone directly into my 3rd-story window. I asked him to re-aim them (not > quite as taciturn as Dad) a couple of times, then re-aimed them myself > one night when he failed to. They illuminated the driveway much better > after I was done. > > To my everlasting surprise, he had the electrician come back to his > house the following weekend to install a new dual-spotlight > fixture--with tamper-resistant screws--aimed at the side of our house! I > guess he was trying for maximum ground coverage, but from lights that > were only about 7 feet off the ground, and somehow the photons didn't > know enough to stop at the property line. > > I took a page from my old man's book and hung a bedsheet from my window, > upon which was painted, "Jesus Loves You." > > My mother had a fit (when she could supress the laughter), but I > wouldn't take it down. > > The electrician came back and re-aimed the lights. > > - Bill ======== Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking Subject: Re: Set up and levelling From: Robert Bastow Date: Fri, 05 Feb 1999 20:16:08 GMT -------- In the FINAL analysis you can't. But you can go along way to having a good understanding. The turning test is the final "proof of the pudding" In my time I have installed scores of lathes and other machine tools. Yes, we would go throught all the static tests with sensitive levels and test bars etc. But I never once yet met a machine shop owner or plant manager sign off on a machine and accept the invoice, without seing it "Cut Metal" The tendence is, as home shop machinists, especially people new to the business, to think that a lathe, because it is "heavy" and made out of "Metal" is a rigid chunk. That the only difference between "Static" and "Dynamic" is "Movement". Nothing could be further from the truth. First of all, there is nothing that is perfectly flat,level, round, rigid, square or straight. It is all degrees of the above. In real terms, the bed of a typical HSM lathe is aboud as rigid as a wet noodle. I have learned not to stick my neck out here, even to play "devils advocate" But am as sure as I can be that if you were to set up a brand new example of such a lathe,to be perfectly level and statically aligned, you would be left wondering where the problem was when you did a machining test! Why? A ton of reasons. Differential expansion of the headstock and PART of the bed as things warm up. Twisting of the bed as you tighten the tailstock down. Even more twisting as the carriage with its lop-sided weight and offset thrust vectors starts traversing down the bed. Can you stop this? No! Can you work around it? Definitely! Just a tweak of the cross level may bring the "Cut Metal" result WITHIN ACCEPTABLE PARAMETERS!!! What are those parameters? You tell me, it's your lathe and you are paying the tab. Press hard..You're making three copies! ;^) Robert Bastow J. Reid wrote: > > Yes lots of things interact. So how to tell if problems are caused by way > twist or wear,headstock cant or tailstock centering? > Can these effects offset each other in the test operation but cause > trouble later? > > On Wed, 3 Feb 1999, Robert Bastow wrote: > > > I have to second Jims thoughts on this..level is nice, but it is TURNING results > > that count in the end. > > > > You can set up to levels and test bars all day long.. but until you cut metal > > and measure THOSE results you truly have nothing but a guess and by golly as to > > how all the different bits interact DYNAMICALLY! > > > > Robert Bastow > > > > > > > I just use a 6 inch carpenter's level when I start to set machines > > > up. Just because I don't like the tools rolling around in the chip > > > pan. After that, I use the collars on the test bar. > > > > > > Have fun with your new toy! > > > > > > Jim > > > > > > -----------== Posted via Deja News, The Discussion Network ==---------- > > > http://www.dejanews.com/ Search, Read, Discuss, or Start Your Own > > > > ======== Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking Subject: Re: The Feel-Good Zone From: Robert Bastow Date: Fri, 05 Feb 1999 20:24:54 GMT -------- As Urban (or Rural) Legends go this is as hoary as Jack Frost!! I still squirm a bit..And laugh my socks off every time it comes up!! Thanks, Bruce. 8^) Bruce Closs wrote: > > Wanna feel better? Read this one. > > [Arkansas Democrat gazette] Two local men were seriously injured when > their pick-up truck left the road and struck a tree near Cotton Patch on > State Highway 38 early Monday morning. Woodruff County deputy Dovey Snyder > reported the accident shortly after midnight Monday. Thurston Poole, 33, of > Des Arc, and Billy Ray Wallis, 38, of Little Rock, are listed in serious > condition at Baptist Medical Center. The accident occurred as the two men > were returning to Des Arc after a frogging trip. > On an overcast Sunday night, Poole's pick-up truck headlights > malfunctioned. The two men concluded that the headlight fuse on the older > model truck had burned out. As a replacement fuse was not available, Wallis > noticed that the bullet from his pistol fit perfectly into the fuse box next > to the steering wheel column. Upon inserting the bullet, the headlights > again began to operate properly, and the two men proceeded on east-bound > toward the White River bridge. After traveling approximately twenty miles > and just before crossing the > river, the bullet apparently overheated, discharged and struck Poole in the > right testicle. The vehicle swerved sharply to the right exiting the > pavement and striking a tree. Poole suffered only minor cuts and abrasions > from the accident, but will require surgery to repair the other wound. > Wallis sustained a broken clavicle and was treated and released. > "Thank God we weren't on that bridge when Thurston shot his balls off or > we might both be dead" stated Wallis. > "I've been a trooper for ten years in this part of the world, but this > is a first for me. I can't believe that those two would admit how this > accident happened", said Snyder. > Upon being notified of the wreck, Lavinia, Poole's wife asked how many > frogs the boys had caught and did anyone get them from the truck. > > There now, don't you just feel better? > > Bruce Closs > http://www.closs.com ======== Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking Subject: Re: Butler 18 x 50 Lathe Info? From: Robert Bastow Date: Fri, 05 Feb 1999 20:28:13 GMT -------- Oldie but goodie if it is by Butlers of Halifax. (England) One of their portable bench top models no doubt! (They specialised in huge roll turning lathes, planers and vertical slotters. Scott Goodyear wrote: > > Does anyone have any information about a Butler 18 x 50 lathe? > > I've never heard of one, maybe someone in the group has. > > thanks > > Scott Goodyear > > goodyear@REMOVEvianet.on.ca ======== Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking Subject: Re: Bridgeport benchtop mil? From: Robert Bastow Date: Fri, 05 Feb 1999 22:11:36 GMT -------- Jack Erbes wrote: > Wow!! The thing says these were built "Using just ordinary workshop > facilities at home...". That probably underscribes the casting and > machining used equipment pretty badly but probably the "least ordinary" > thing in the entire process were the gentlemans's skills and > dedication. > -- > Jack in Sonoma, CA, USA (jack@vom.com) Wish I had an "ordinary" machine shop too! Seriously though these are masterpieces of the art. I'm having to wipe drool from my keyboard. Maybe there IS something in a name. I remember a BILL Jordan..Member of the TISME group in Toronto. He built a couple of exquisit working models in 1/5 th and 1/4 scale IIRC of a Porsche flat four and a flat 6 cylinder racing engines. The latter had fully working fuel injection and was turbo-charged. Impressive little screamers they were at 24000 rev/min. Do any of our Canadian readers remember those engines and what became of them when Bill passed away? Robert Bastow ======== Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking Subject: Re: "sphelter" metal From: Robert Bastow Date: Sat, 06 Feb 1999 03:38:46 GMT -------- "Spelter" is an old name for silver soldering or, more usually, brazing alloys. Robert Bastow Janusz Chris Terlecki wrote: > > Hi, > > Does anyone knows what type of alloy is called "sphelter" metal. Your > help would be greatly apprectiated. Thank you in advance for your > reply. > > Chris ======== Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking Subject: Re: New truck on its way. From: Robert Bastow Date: Sat, 06 Feb 1999 05:53:33 GMT -------- A POX on you Lee..Now I have beer all over my monitor and keyboard!! Robert Bastow Lee Marshall wrote: > > One of the reasons that they never built wrist-watches in the UK is that they > couldn't figure out where to put the drip pan! :-) > > Lee > > Jim Stewart wrote: > > > Alan Wood wrote: > > > > > > Has anyone assayed the North Sea oil to determine it's origins? Given > > > the reports of motorcycle oil leaks in Britain I have to wonder if this is > > > really just were all the MotorCycle oil accumalates after leaking out.... > > > > It was common knowledge in the '70s that the North Sea oil fields were > > created by disgusted Norton (pronounced "not-run") owners flinging their > > mounts into the sea... > > > > -js > > > > -- > > > > http://www.strappe.com ======== Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking Subject: Re: How'ed they do that? From: Robert Bastow Date: Sat, 06 Feb 1999 06:05:21 GMT -------- The old way was to drill the holes in a "straight flte" forged blank, which was then twisted to form the helix, befor machining, heated treating and finish grinding. The new way is to investment cast, or isostatic press from powdered metal, to near net shape. Robert Bastow Danny Hopping wrote: > > I have in my possession a drill bit that is about a foot long. > The top of the bit has had the shaft reamed to form a hole about 1/2" > deep with about 1/16" wall thickness. (drill2.jpg) > Along the outer edge of the bored out hole are two 1/16" holes that > travel the entire length of the bit and appear at the business end of > the drill bit. (drill1.jpg) The two small holes are too close to the > edge to be cut stright through. > I am sure that this is used to pump coolent down to the bottom on the > drill bit, but how did thay make these holes? The holes definetely > appear to follow the twist of the bit, even at the top of the bit where > there is no spiral cutout. > The only marking on the bit are: > 23/64 PTD H42 USA > > http://www.baycoast.com/pics/drill1.jpg shows a photo of the business > end of the bit. > http://www.baycoast.com/pics/drill2.jpg shows a photo of the back end of > the drill bit. > > I think I picked this bit up at a government auction a few years back > but never used it or even looked at it until today?? > I know it's not magic but it looks like it! > How'ed they do that? > > Thanks, > Danny ======== Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking Subject: Re: Why are my bored holes tapered? From: Robert Bastow Date: Sat, 06 Feb 1999 16:21:24 GMT -------- This is what I refered to in my recent post on setting up. Because of inevitable clearances and thrust vectors working in differnt ways...if you think about it..it is virtually impossible for a lathe to both turn an o/d AND bore a hole that are both dead nuts. The age condition setup etc., only determine the DEGREE to which this becomes a problem. As I said before, it is a compromise, and a compromise that only you can determine. My lathe is pretty "tight" and I have chosen to set it up so that it will bore "dead nuts" at the expense of having it cut an external taper of 0.0001 to 0.0003" on an unsupported external diameter of about 3"in length. This is the maximum length that I am likely to cut without tailstock support. Anything longer gets it, as does anything shorter, if it is thin and/or I need more accuracy. My philosophy on this, is simply that it is more difficult to correct a tapered bore, and a few rubs with emery paper will easily take off a few tenths of external taper. Likewise you CANNOT use T/S support to correct internal taper. Yer pays yer money, yer takes yer choice!! Robert Bastow Larry Meile wrote: > > I have an old Atlas 6" engine lathe with flat ways and plain bearings. > When I turn an outside diameter, I can get a six-inch or so cylinder > that is within a thousandth. If I mount a boring bar on the toolpost > and turn an inside diameter, it ends up tapered with the mouth about > three thousandths larger than the bottom of the hole. > > I have checked: > Play in the bearings. A dial indicator shows no visible slop on a > bar clamped in the chuck. > Play in the apron. A thousandth or two might show up here under > moderate (cutting) load. However, both cuts are taken in the same > direction. > Boring bar interference. I thought perhaps the boring bar had i > nsufficient clearance so that it was being deflected by the hole as > it entered the cut. This does not seem to be the case. > > What have I overlooked? > > Larry ======== Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking Subject: Re: Question: Spindle Nose type From: Robert Bastow Date: Sat, 06 Feb 1999 19:45:30 GMT -------- What you have is a standard , long taper, spindle nose. It hase a key mounted on it right? I BELIEVE this is a LOO size, as used also on the Hardinge Toolroom lathes..No doubt some one will correct me if it is not the case. Right now there a re several chucks on ebay that might fit your machine. Robert Bastow Alan Inness wrote: > > Hi, > Anyone out there identify spindle nose types? > I recently picked up an Elliot Lathe (UK) older vintage, It did not come > with a backing plate and I am trying to identify the type# of the > spindle. The spindle is a through hole type and has a knurled ring which > uses a 'C' type wrench to tighten, the ring has a 4.5" female thread > (6tpi) to screw on to the chuck or back plate, the spindle itself has a > male taper, 3.25" at the back and 2.75" at the front. The chucks have a > 4.5" male thread and a female taper. > Does this conform to a common standard is am I looking at making > something up to suit? > Any information would be appreciated. > Thanks > Al Inness ======== Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking Subject: Re: Question: Spindle Nose type From: Robert Bastow Date: Sat, 06 Feb 1999 19:46:50 GMT -------- Thank you Scott. Robert Bastow wrote: > I BELIEVE this is a LOO size, as used also on the Hardinge Toolroom lathes..No > doubt some one will correct me if it is not the case. > ======== Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking Subject: Re: A challenge for the BEST of you. From: Robert Bastow Date: Mon, 08 Feb 1999 04:11:13 GMT -------- Your question was answered by several people Danny, The holes were drilled and then the "blank" was twisted, before HT and finishing!! Robert Bastow Danny Hopping wrote: > > OK, Now I am REALLY Curious! I put the following message up a few days > ago thinking that SOMEONE in the group would have the answer. I > received one response from someone who also did not know. It is really > that mysterious? One of you experienced people know how it was > accomplished. It's really got me intrigued. Here it is again. > ------------------------------------------------------------------------------------ > > I have in my possession a drill bit that is about a foot long. > The top of the bit has had the shaft reamed to form a hole about 1/2" > deep with about 1/16" wall thickness. (drill2.jpg) > Along the outer edge of the bored out hole are two 1/16" holes that > travel the entire length of the bit and appear at the business end of > the drill bit. (drill1.jpg) The two small holes are too close to the > edge to be cut straight through. > I am sure that this is used to pump coolant down to the bottom on the > drill bit, but how did they make these holes? The holes definitely > appear to follow the twist of the bit, even at the top of the bit where > there is no spiral cutout for the drill. > The steel is high quality looking and the edger of the drill are clearly > machined, so it does not appear to be a casting unless it was turned > down and then the drill twists machined in later. > > The only marking on the bit are: > 23/64 PTD H42 USA > > PHOTOS of the bit: > http://www.baycoast.com/pics/drill1.jpg shows a photo of the business > end of the bit. It shows one of the two holes clearly. > > http://www.baycoast.com/pics/drill2.jpg shows a photo of the back end of > > the drill bit. It also shows one of the two holes, the other hole is > directly opposite. > > I think I picked this bit up at a government auction a few years back > but never used it or even looked at it until today?? > I know it's not magic but it looks like it! > How'ed they do that? > > Thanks, > Danny ======== Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking Subject: Re: wobbly grinder From: Robert Bastow Date: Mon, 08 Feb 1999 04:16:02 GMT -------- Only one, How can you be assured that the welding will not embrittle the shaft..Resulting in rapid plastic surgery for the next user?? By all means, skim the shaft true, shrink or glue on a collar and face the result true. But stay away from welding please! Robert Bastow Jim Stewart wrote: > > I have a 20-year-old bench grinder with a lot of runout on both wheels. > Last weekend I attempted to square up the faces of the cup washers that > locate the wheel, but that didn't do much good. > > I've concluded that the problem is the shaft diameters: the outer end > of the shafts is 5/8" while the shaft in the motor is stepped up maybe > .200" in diameter. > > I figure this small step isn't enough to square the cup washers, hence > the side runout. > > I'm thinking of removing the shaft and armature, welding some flat > washers onto the shaft at the step, then squaring them between centers > in the lathe. > > Any thoughts? > > -js > > -- > > http://www.strappe.com ======== Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking Subject: Re: FS Chart Recorder, Flow Gauges From: Robert Bastow Date: Mon, 08 Feb 1999 04:21:31 GMT -------- MAN!!! That auction fever REALLY got to you huh!!! Robert Bastow Wayne Cook wrote: > > Well I got caught by the auction bug and had to go to one yesterday. > I managed ok but spent more money than I meant to and thus I need to > sell some of the stuff that it doesn't look like I'll need anytime > soon. > > Maybe someone is interested in some of this so I'll post it here > before putting it up on ebay. > > Item #1 is a Chart Recorder. It's made by Honeywell and takes a 12" > round chart. It's a pressure recording type and states a 200-400 psi > range on the tag (don't know for sure if that's just the max or is the > actually range) it takes 120V to run and looks like it's in new > condition. I'm not sure what it's worth but a smaller one in my old > McMaster-Carr catalog goes for nearly $300. I think that I'd like to > get $50 out of it but any reasonable offer will be considered. > > Item #2 is a flow gauge. It's a Brooks Instrument liquid flow gauge > that's got a scale going from 0-42.5 GPM (it's a rather large one). > It's fully protected inside a case with heavy sealed windows on two > sides. Looks like it takes a 1 1/2" pipe fitting on each end and has > been used. The closest thing I can find in MMC goes for over $400. I > think that $50 would be a bargain for this one. > > Item #3 is also a flow gauge. It's a smaller one than above but is > basically the same otherwise. It looks in new condition except that > someone has lost the shuttle out of it (one end cap is loose) and > there's a crack in one of the windows. It's rated 300 psi at 200 deg > F. It's got a scale going from 0-100 percent of flow. There's a > calibration tag on the side that states multiplying that with .014 > would read correct for a fluid of 1.0 SP. GR. at 70 deg. I don't know > where a shuttle could be found for this one but maybe somebody else > does. I guess just make me a offer on this one since it's not complete > and you would know what it's worth better than I would. > > I can supply model numbers and any other info desired on these. Just > e-mail me with asking me what you want to know and I'll get back to > you as soon as I can. > > Thanks. > > Wayne Cook > Shamrock TX ======== Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking Subject: Re: A challenge to the best of you. From: Robert Bastow Date: Mon, 08 Feb 1999 07:23:22 GMT -------- Danny, Grab the stick and pull it back!! ;^) Danny Hopping wrote: > > (Sorry this posted twice: My computer time stamp was off...) > > OK, Now I am REALLY Curious! I put the following message up a few days > ago thinking that SOMEONE in the group would have the answer. I > received one response from someone who also did not know. It is really > that mysterious? One of you experienced people know how it was > accomplished. It's really got me intrigued. Here it is again. > ------------------------------------------------------------------------------------ > > I have in my possession a drill bit that is about a foot long. > The top of the bit has had the shaft reamed to form a hole about 1/2" > deep with about 1/16" wall thickness. (drill2.jpg) > Along the outer edge of the bored out hole are two 1/16" holes that > travel the entire length of the bit and appear at the business end of > the drill bit. (drill1.jpg) The two small holes are too close to the > edge to be cut straight through. > I am sure that this is used to pump coolant down to the bottom on the > drill bit, but how did they make these holes? The holes definitely > appear to follow the twist of the bit, even at the top of the bit where > there is no spiral cutout for the drill. > The steel is high quality looking and the edger of the drill are clearly > > machined, so it does not appear to be a casting unless it was turned > down and then the drill twists machined in later. > > The only marking on the bit are: > 23/64 PTD H42 USA > > PHOTOS of the bit: > http://www.baycoast.com/pics/drill1.jpg shows a photo of the business > end of the bit. It shows one of the two holes clearly. > > http://www.baycoast.com/pics/drill2.jpg shows a photo of the back end of > > the drill bit. It also shows one of the two holes, the other hole is > directly opposite. > > I think I picked this bit up at a government auction a few years back > but never used it or even looked at it until today?? > I know it's not magic but it looks like it! > How'ed they do that? > > Thanks, > Danny ======== Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking Subject: Re: Test Bars Sag From: Robert Bastow Date: Mon, 08 Feb 1999 16:59:47 GMT -------- For this reason "Real" test bars are not solid. They are drilled out with a series of decreasing diameter drills, right up to the start of the taper shank. Thus they retain maximum stiffness with minimum weight. A plug is then shrunk in the open end, before machining, heat treatment and finish grinding. Robert Bastow Eric Taylor wrote: > > Connelly, in Machine Tool Reconditioning, says that a 1" x 12" steel > test bar, clamped at one end, will sag .00038" at the other end. I > need to figure the sag for other lengths and diameters. Specifically > right now, it's for my HF7x10, whose max chuck swallowing capacity is > 5/8". Would anyone know the general equation for sag, or simply (I can > use Connelly's figure a starting point) how the sag changes as a > function of length and diameter (exponential, square, cube, or ?) > > Thanks very much for any help. > > Eric > ======== To: mulligan@advinc.com Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking Subject: Re: Darn you Mr. Bastow! From: Robert Bastow Date: Mon, 08 Feb 1999 17:03:11 GMT -------- Just happy to be of help Jim!! ;^) Robert Bastow Who may be a fart...but I ain't THAT old!! mulligan@advinc.com wrote: > > I will never be the same again. Here I was cutting the huge > piece of steel to use as the support for my new M head, and > as I cut the face off the end of it there was some rust there > which landed on the bed of the lathe. Whoops says I, better > get it right out of there. So I take my shopvac and wisk it > away. Robert would do that says I. > > Then after I made about a bucket full of blue chips I went to > clean the machine off. I wiped down the ways and then - horrors > I inspected the residue closely. Big mistake. Looked like it was > full of all kinds of trash and tiny abrasive particles. Damn > says I better wipe that all off. But now I know it's under those > ways. > > Probably never be able to sleep at night. I suspect that I am > degenerating into an old phart and if Mr Bastow had never made > the subliminal suggestion that I might be trashing the ways on > that lathe I would still be a happy man. > > Then again maybe I'm just turning into an old phart on my own. > At least the ways are clean now. > > Jim > > -----------== Posted via Deja News, The Discussion Network ==---------- > http://www.dejanews.com/ Search, Read, Discuss, or Start Your Own ======== Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking Subject: Re: A challenge to the best of you. From: Robert Bastow Date: Mon, 08 Feb 1999 21:07:31 GMT -------- Deep hole drilling (Gun Drilling) is an extremely accurate process. these holes would be no problem at all. Robert Bastow Spehro Pefhany wrote: > > the renowned Edward Stone wrote: > > could the drill been formed with the two small holes and then twisted > > then> hardened and then finnished by grinding the spirial fluts and the cutting > > edges? > > Since drilling two 1/16" holes a foot deep, close to the edge, sounds > unlikely, what about using two rectangular pieces with grooves in one, TIG > welding them together, annealing, twisting and then machining? Are the > small holes quite round or are they channels or semi-circles? > > -- > =-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-= > Spehro Pefhany "The Journey is the reward" > speff@interlog.com > Fax:(905) 271-9838 (small micro system devt hw/sw + mfg) > =-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-= ======== Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking Subject: Re: ëÕÐÌÀ üöë!!!! From: Robert Bastow Date: Mon, 08 Feb 1999 21:09:33 GMT -------- He's ba-ack! max wrote: > > üöë-0Â22; á2 ËÌ. 2 > 712 - 820 ÉÌÉ 712 - 910 > obval@mgn.ru ======== Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking Subject: Re: Delta Drill Press Spindle From: Robert Bastow Date: Tue, 09 Feb 1999 01:10:43 GMT -------- These sound like spindles from a multi-spindle drill head. This generally takes the form of a conical, open frame, wilh a geared multiple spindle drive at the top. The spindles have universal joint so they can be clamped on the bottom plate, in whatever pattern is desired. They also have a splined, sliding coupling arrangement, in order to accomodated different "spans". Robert Bastow ======== Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking Subject: Re: Got any hints on "deep hole drilling"? From: Robert Bastow Date: Tue, 09 Feb 1999 03:31:57 GMT -------- Deep hole drilling was a specialty of one of my companies. If you will tell me the tolerance and finish you require, the acceptable runout and straightness and the equipment you have to work with, I might be able to give you some pointers. Is the material heat treated, normalised or annealed? Robert Bastow Jay McMunn wrote: > > It is my desire to drill a ~3/4" dia. hole through a pc. of 17-4PH > or 4140 that will be about 10" long. I do not want to drill a smaller > hole from each end, bore clear through, ream, etc. Deep hole > drilling would be the way to go but I lack expierence in the > process. > > thanx, > > Jay > jmcmunn@nidlink.com ======== Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking Subject: Re: A challenge for the BEST of you. From: Robert Bastow Date: Tue, 09 Feb 1999 05:54:52 GMT -------- The type of drill being discussed is NOT a "Gundrill" but is referred to as an "oil hole" or "oil feed" drill...A very different animal! And yes, they REALLY ARE produced by pre-drilling and twisting!! "Gun" drills don't have holes drilled down them!! A "traditional" gun drill is like a "D" bit and is brazed into the end of a "D" section tube. Oil is pumped under high pressure though the tube, it exits via a SHORT hole in the cutting bit and exits back up the outside of the tube carrying the chips with it. In actual fact, the tube and bit describe somewhat more than the half circle of a true "D" bit the actual section being nearer to 225 degrees and the tubes are given this section by roller swaging from round tubing. Commercially, this type of gundrill is available in sizes down to 0.050" and less. These drills are usually run on very precise, specialised Gundrilling machines although it is not difficult to adapt a standard center lathe to do the job. Speeds are high and feeds of the order of 0.0005" to 0.003" are the norm. Multiple spindle setups are common, indeed the operatio I observed drilling the twin holes in oil hole drill blanks, was done on a specially adapted ACME or NEW BRITAIN type of multispindle automatic lathe Each of the multiple stations had twin spindle gundrills such that there may be ten or twelve gun drills all doing their thing at the same time!! Ther are several othe deep hole systems..on of the better lnow being the Sandvik "Ejector" system. Here the tubes are circular and the head has three brazed carbide bearing pads, one of which also acts as the cutter. In this system the Cutter Head, is screwed by a multi start thread into a thickwalled outer tube. Inside this tube is a smaller, thinner walled tube. Oil at pressures from 300 to 1000psi and in great volume is pumped through the annular gap between the two tubes and exits through ports in the cutter head. Thence it returns via large throats in the cutter heads, flushing chips with it down the center of the inner tube. The name "Ejector" stems from the fact that, just before reaching the cutter head, a small proportion of the oil is bypassed straight into the inner tube via specially shaped, backward facing ports. This creats a venturi effect and greatly enhances the ability to "Eject" chips. Speeds and feeds are much faster..0.005 to 0.015" per revolution. The horsepower requirements, both for the workhead and the fluid pump is high. One such machine that I custom built to drill out, from solid steel forgings, the bodies of large jackhammers, had three independently controlled DC drive motors. The spindle had 50 HP the feed had 25HP and coolant pump had 75 HP!!! The 3 3/8 diameter x 21" deep hole, in preheat treated 48RC alloy steel was drilled in four minutes...floor to floor!! Lotsa chips..had a 1 1/2hp DC motor on the chip conveyor!! Robert Bastow mulligan@advinc.com wrote: > > In article <36BD12E9.A15DC290@hotmail.com>, > Robert Bastow wrote: > > Your question was answered by several people Danny, > > > > The holes were drilled and then the "blank" was twisted, before HT and > > finishing!! > > Right, but now how did they gun drill the holes in the drill > that was used to drill the holes in the larger blank?? > > And please don't say they made two short blanks with short holes > and welded 'em end to end to make the long one! > > Jim > > -----------== Posted via Deja News, The Discussion Network ==---------- > http://www.dejanews.com/ Search, Read, Discuss, or Start Your Own ======== Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking Subject: Re: How to true up chuck jaws From: Robert Bastow Date: Tue, 09 Feb 1999 06:13:51 GMT -------- This is the way that I was taught to do the job. Ie. by grinding a carefully calculated amount from each jaw, on a surface grinder. At that time I was given a simple geometric formula that, once you had taken a clean up skim off the jaws and replaced them in the chuck, all one needed to do was to indicate a test bar, determine the value of the maximum TIR AND its PRECISE angular position to say, jaw one. You then applied the formula and it told you EXACTLY how much to grind off each jaw in sequence. I have searched high and low for that formula without success. It is beyond my rusty math now, but I am sure one of our listers can figure it out on his trusty slip stick. ;^) Of course, all the caveats that Dave quotes about varying diameters and using different key sockets apply to this method as well as they do to any other. I got my very first Pratt-Burnerd "Grip-Tru" chuck a couple of weeks ago. THAT IS THE WAY TO GO!!!! Best investment I ever made and, strangely, given my background, the very first time I had ever used one. Am I ever a convert! Robert Bastow Dave Baker wrote: > Find a bit of bar in about the mid range of the size you do most of your > machining on. Make sure the bar is perfectly round. If necessary take a light > cut over the length of it including the part you will hold in the jaws. One > inch or so diameter is reasonable for most hobby machinists. Clamp this in the > chuck with 1/2 an inch sticking out and run a dial guage over it. Note the > lowest spot which will correspond to the "biggest" jaw. Mount that jaw on the > mill and shim it up until the jaw face is vertical. You might find that > mounting straight off the scroll does not quite give you this because jaws > should be a bit closer at the front so they grip a bar with no wobble. > > Take a light cut over the face and reassemble. Keep doing this until the bar > runs true. With care you can get an old chuck to run within a thou on a > particular size bar although it might go all over the place on another size > bar. > > I got my 3 jaw just about dead true like this. Don't grind too much off though > or you will go through the case hardening and then the jaws will mark up every > time you clamp something hard. > > A final tip when another size bar doesn't clamp true. Try tightening using > another key slot. There are normally 3 of these on a 3 jaw chuck. You will find > that one will give the best results with each particular size of bar. If you > need a dead true job then get a collet chuck or a 4 jaw. > > You can of course get new scrolls and jaws for most chucks but it usually isn't > worth the money if your time is your own and you can play with jobs a bit until > they run ok. > > Dave Baker at Puma Race Engines (London - England) - specialist flow > development and engine work. . PumaRacing wrote: > > >Subject: How to true up chuck jaws > >From: "Nick Alexander" > >Date: 2/8/99 7:32AM GMT > >Message-id: <79m3rc$m79$1@nnrp01.iafrica.com> > > > >I have recently bought a Graziano lathe which came with a Taylor 3-jaw > >chuck. Unfortunately it appears that there is quite a lot of wear on the > >inner jaws. What is the correct method for truing up the jaws? I would > >prefer not to use a grinder as a friend suggested. Is it possible to use a > >sturdy boring bar, or will the flex of the bar be too great for reasonably > >accurate jaws? Will the jaws be too hard for decent cutting? > > > >Regards, > >Nick Alexander > > > > > > Chuck jaws are case hardened and although a carbide tool will just about cut > them it is not the best way. > > On an old chuck you will find it inpossible to get jaws absolutely true for > various reasons. > > 1 - If there is wear in the scroll then the jaws will centre differently when > you clamp different size bars. > > 2 - You will find that the jaws centre differently depending on which key slot > you tighten with the chuck key. You should get into the habit of using one > particular slot to final tighten a job with. > > Having said that the best way I find is to do this. Mount up a grinding wheel > on an arbour in a mill if you have one. Use a wheel with a diameter just bigger > than the largest bar you intend to hold or that the chuck will extend out to. > > Find a bit of bar in about the mid range of the size you do most of your > machining on. Make sure the bar is perfectly round. If necessary take a light > cut over the length of it including the part you will hold in the jaws. One > inch or so diameter is reasonable for most hobby machinists. Clamp this in the > chuck with 1/2 an inch sticking out and run a dial guage over it. Note the > lowest spot which will correspond to the "biggest" jaw. Mount that jaw on the > mill and shim it up until the jaw face is vertical. You might find that > mounting straight off the scroll does not quite give you this because jaws > should be a bit closer at the front so they grip a bar with no wobble. > > Take a light cut over the face and reassemble. Keep doing this until the bar > runs true. With care you can get an old chuck to run within a thou on a > particular size bar although it might go all over the place on another size > bar. > > I got my 3 jaw just about dead true like this. Don't grind too much off though > or you will go through the case hardening and then the jaws will mark up every > time you clamp something hard. > > A final tip when another size bar doesn't clamp true. Try tightening using > another key slot. There are normally 3 of these on a 3 jaw chuck. You will find > that one will give the best results with each particular size of bar. If you > need a dead true job then get a collet chuck or a 4 jaw. > > You can of course get new scrolls and jaws for most chucks but it usually isn't > worth the money if your time is your own and you can play with jobs a bit until > they run ok. > > Dave Baker at Puma Race Engines (London - England) - specialist flow > development and engine work. . ======== Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking Subject: Re: A challenge for the BEST of you. From: Robert Bastow Date: Tue, 09 Feb 1999 06:31:48 GMT -------- Sorry but I respectfully have to tell you that you are indeed wrong on this one. Gundrilling is a VERY PRECISE operation. Holes much, much longer than 12" can be drilled to "as good as reamed" finish, to +/- .0005" tolerances and with as little as ZERO runout. The holes we are discussing would be a piece of cake to an experienced and well equiped deep hole driller. I know because I used to do it for a living!! See if you can't find "Eldorado Tool" on your server..I used to get most of my tackle from them. They put out a catalogue that is jam packed with useful and fascinating information. Robert Bastow Spehro Pefhany wrote: > > the renowned mulligan@advinc.com wrote: > > > Right, but now how did they gun drill the holes in the drill > > that was used to drill the holes in the larger blank?? > > > And please don't say they made two short blanks with short holes > > and welded 'em end to end to make the long one! > > I thought I posted on this, but it hasn't shown up a few hours later, so, > yes I don't think you can drill a 1/16" hole 12" deep close to the > edges, gun drill or not. If I am wrong, please tell me!!! > > So, I am thinking two long pieces with two lengthwise grooves in one, > welded together to form two "U' shaped channels, then heated and twisted. > C'est possible? > > Do the coolant holes appear perfectly round? > > -- > =-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-= > Spehro Pefhany "The Journey is the reward" > speff@interlog.com > Fax:(905) 271-9838 (small micro system devt hw/sw + mfg) > =-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-= ======== Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking Subject: Re: A challenge for the BEST of you. From: Robert Bastow Date: Tue, 09 Feb 1999 17:07:51 GMT -------- Spehro Pefhany wrote: >How much would you expect a 1/16" hole to drift going through 12" of steel? Would > it depend on the quality of the steel (something like P20 having less > inclusions and being better?) As in all things Spehro...It all depends!! First of all, 1/16" dia x 12" is an awfully deep hole and not the sort of hole I would expect to see in an oilhole drill. Most of these are not much longer than standard drills I have one that is 1.093" dia x 8" long and the oil holes are about 3/16" dia. Having said that I am sure that it can be done. I have watched .177" dia holes being gundrilled through a 22" rifle barrel with no problem. Getting to the "it all depends" bit...Obviously there are a number of factors. Gun drills have to be set up DEAD true and have to be started DEAD tru into the cut. This is achieved by either pre-boring a starting hole to dead size and 2-5 x hole diameter, or, more usually by using a hardened and ground starting bushing. The question also arises as to whether the part or the drill is rotated...or in some cases BOTH. Obviously if the part is rotated the setup is inherently far more accurate as the drill head is constantly self centering. Given all that the forces that tend to push the drill of center include using a too high feed rate, insuficient oilpressure sothat chips jam and blunt or chipped drill head. By FAR the most common cause is variations..Hard or soft sponts in the material. Remember my oft used statement, to the effect that NOTHING is perfect, we are in a situation in gundrilling where we are "pushing the envelope" and everything had better be as close to perfect as possible. To this end, manufacturers of custom gun barrels go to inordinate lengths to ensure consistancy in thier raw materials which will be specially rolled and normalised. On receipt the bars will be checked, straightened and re-heat treated. Given that, runouts and straightness are expected to be within pretty tight limits. Even so there is a selection process for "Premium" barrels. Gun drilling is a facinating and versatile process..did you know that overlapping "8" shaped holes can be done quite easily. In this respect the gundrill is similar to a woodworkers "Forstner" bit. Robert Bastow ======== Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking Subject: Re: Cutting hex holes in drill rod From: Robert Bastow Date: Wed, 10 Feb 1999 04:34:07 GMT -------- That is probably the quickest and easiest way. If you only need a few Parts, just use a short section of allen wrench. This is a bit on the soft side for this application, but if you don't mind regrinding a few times it will do the job.. Failing that, grind one up from HSS. When you grind the end, try doing it on the very edge of the smallest wheel you have. Spin it as you grind and you will finish up with a concave end. This gives the cutting edges a bit of positive rake. Going a few thou over on the pilot drill, (larger than the A/C of your hex), will make the job a LOT easier without sacrificing anything important in the way of looks or strength. Robert Bastow Gary Coffman wrote: > > Ok, time for me to ask what is probably a Duh! question. How can I cut a > hex hole in the end of some drill rod stock to form an Allen head pocket? > Do I drill a hole and broach to size, or is there a better way? > > Gary > Gary Coffman KE4ZV | You make it |mail to ke4zv@bellsouth.net > 534 Shannon Way | We break it | > Lawrenceville, GA | Guaranteed | ======== Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking Subject: Re: Cutting hex holes in drill rod From: Robert Bastow Date: Wed, 10 Feb 1999 05:14:25 GMT -------- Robert Bastow wrote: > Going a few thou over on the pilot drill, (larger than the A/C of your >hex), will make the job a LOT easier Er..A/F not A/C Robert Bastow ======== Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking Subject: Re: Cutting hex holes in drill rod From: Robert Bastow Date: Wed, 10 Feb 1999 05:20:54 GMT -------- This technique works well with buggered hex sockets. After all, the metal has only one place to go, and that is UP!! Faced with this problem, ( I rebuild a lot of old Machinery), I find that a judicious smack on top of the screw with a hammer, will push most of the metal back into place. I then grind the end of a hex key square and tap it into the socket. Works like a charm. Robert Bastow Don Foreman wrote: > > Tonight I buggered a tight phillips screw in my Makita angle grinder ======== Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking Subject: Re: Snowed IN!!! From: Robert Bastow Date: Wed, 10 Feb 1999 18:41:47 GMT -------- CharlieDIY wrote: > > And for the rudest city in the western hemisphere, my vote goes to...Montreal. > NYC doesn't even compare, because there you don't have people acting as if > they'd like to spit on you for not speaking "their" language. I think one of > the reasons I forgot my French almost as fast as I learned it was the absolute > and unwavering arrogance of those who speak the language from birth. > > Charlie Self > Word Worker Je suis d'accord!! Before going to live in Canada I spoke almost perfectly fluent French. After a couple of years I decided to "forget" it. Les Quebecois really do take the Blue Biband, even among French speakers world wide, for the # 1 place in rudeness and arrogance!! Robert Bastow ======== Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking Subject: Re: A challenge for the BEST of you. From: Robert Bastow Date: Wed, 10 Feb 1999 18:55:47 GMT -------- Danny Hopping wrote: The ones I saw being made were forged to a straight flute section before being drilled. They were then flash butt welded to a shank before being heated by an induction coil and twisted. The assembly was then machined, heat treated and finish ground. Don't forget that , in Industry, processes that we might find incredibly difficult to imagine, are carried out daily, with casual aplomb. It would also be possible to extrude the required twist drill section, holes, flutes, twist, and all. If anything, extruding a STRAIGHT section is more difficult!! Robert Bastow > So, let me get this straight. They drill the two small holes, then twist the blank, > then machine out the groves that form the drill twist? > This LOOKS like how this bit must have been formed as the small holes are perfectly > round. I am amazed that a 1/16" hole can be drilled 14" long. Do they heat up the > blank before drilling then drill it hot? > Wouldn't the twisting affect the OD of the blank? > Is it turned down after twisting? > > Thanks for the answer, now I can sleep again :-) > Danny ======== Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking Subject: Re: How to true up chuck jaws From: Robert Bastow Date: Wed, 10 Feb 1999 19:14:47 GMT -------- You are not missing a thing George!! Remember there are more ways to kill a cat than choking it with cream!! This was the method I was taught and it was quick and dead accurate. It does not require a spider (try finding one the right size in your scrap box when you need it!!) It loads the jaws exactly as they will be loaded in operation. It requires the measurement of only ONE dimension. The jaw faces are flat..This means that accuracy at other radii is not a function also of the WIDTH of the jaw face. It also means tha SMALLER radii are not held by a couple of Knife edges = less chance of marking the job and more durable accuracy in the jaw itself. BTW. The chuck jaws on a HIGH GRADE CHUCK are NOT case hardened...They are solid, heat treated alloy steel. Often we would need to take a brand new chuck and gring the jaws to a particular special configuration. I newr came across case hardened jaws until it was mentioned here. In confirmation, I have just replaced the old EMCO chuck on my Maximat with a PB Grip-Tru and I am converting the old chuck to a replaceable jaw type (soft Jaws). Coming out of a Scool as it did, the jaws had already been machined (buggered) WAY below the thickness of any case hardening. I can assure you that they are hardened all the way through and my first job was to anneal them for machining. Robert Bastow George Keeney wrote: > > Maybe I misunderstand you, Robert, but it seems to me that once you have: > > 1. Removed the jaws > 2. Cleaned up the faces on the grinder > 3. Reinstalled them > > You could now just chuck up on your spider or what have you and indicate > each jaw as you manually rotate the chuck. Once you have determined which > jaw's face is farthest from the spindle C\L set the indicator to zero and > check the other jaws. The indicator should give you a DIRECT reading of how > much each jaw needs to be trimmed. I don't see why, if you have ground each > face to be perpendicular to it's line of thrust, you would need some angular > position calculation. This obviously assumes that one knows (I know you know > this, Robert, just trying to be accurate) that as each jaw is indicated the > needle will start low at the the jaw's edge, climb to a high point and then > decrease as you approach the other edge. Readings should be taken at the > high point. > > Am I missing something? > > Robert Bastow wrote in message <36BE812A.BC30F2B@hotmail.com>... > >This is the way that I was taught to do the job. Ie. by grinding a > carefully > >calculated amount from each jaw, on a surface grinder. > > > >At that time I was given a simple geometric formula that, once you had > taken a > >clean up skim off the jaws and replaced them in the chuck, all one needed > to do > >was to indicate a test bar, determine the value of the maximum TIR AND its > >PRECISE angular position to say, jaw one. > > > >You then applied the formula and it told you EXACTLY how much to grind off > each > >jaw in sequence. > > > >I have searched high and low for that formula without success. It is > beyond my > >rusty math now, but I am sure one of our listers can figure it out on his > trusty > >slip stick. ;^) > -----snip----- ======== Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking Subject: Re: How to true up chuck jaws From: Robert Bastow Date: Wed, 10 Feb 1999 19:20:58 GMT -------- I have been searching for this formula and it occurs to me, for those with a collection of ME, I last heard it referred to in ME, and it was by EITHER GH Thomas or Martin Cleeve. Robert Bastow Robert Bastow wrote: > > This is the way that I was taught to do the job. Ie. by grinding a carefully > calculated amount from each jaw, on a surface grinder. > > I have searched high and low for that formula without success. It is beyond my > rusty math now, but I am sure one of our listers can figure it out on his trusty > slip stick. ;^) > ======== Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking Subject: Re: Test Bars Sag From: Robert Bastow Date: Wed, 10 Feb 1999 19:23:13 GMT -------- Sheesh! It is easier to make a proper test bar!! ;^) Robert Bastow > I think you can use the "cantilever - uniform load" equation: > > The > maximum deflection, Ymax = -(w * L**4)/(8 * E * I) where w is the weight (in > pounds) of the bar extending from the jaws, L is the length (in inches) > extending > from the jaws, E is the "Modulus of Elasticity" of the material (E > = 30,000,000 psi > for carbon steel), and I is the "moment of inertia"(in > inches**4) of the bar > (I = (pi * d**4)/64 for a solid round bar). > > I used the > "*" as a multiplication symbol and the "**" as "raised to the power of". > The equation has a negative sign because the bar deflects down and the > coordinate system has Y as positive when going "up". ======== Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking Subject: Re: Nothing to do with Mr. Bastow! From: Robert Bastow Date: Wed, 10 Feb 1999 19:26:00 GMT -------- I have taken the libery of changing this thread title..Whatever else I may stand accused of..radiation treatment of testicles is NOT one of them!! ;^) Robert Bastow J. Reid wrote: > > Believe it or not-a few decades ago there was a report that the Japanese > were trying to import an ultrasonic bathtub for humans. Never heard of it > after that, but it had obvious applications to birth control! > > J. M. Reid > Issaquah WA > > On Wed, 10 Feb 1999, Tony Jeffree wrote: > > > On Wed, 10 Feb 1999 01:41:29 GMT, ohmwork@technologist.com (ohmwork) > > wrote: > > > > >On 9 Feb 1999 07:09:48 GMT, "Don Foreman" > > > knowing there was a quote coming, > > >wrote: > > > > > >>Probably the best plan is to disassemble the lathe and run the ways thru > > >>the ultrasonic cleaner after each use. > > > > > >hey, that's what I do...but then the ultrasonic cleaner itself > > >collects micro-dust which requires micro-machine scrubbing. the never > > >ending fight against abrasive inclusions has so far cost me my wife > > >and family, but that's ok..she never really understood the NEED for a > > >clean machine..... > > > > > >mike II > > > > > > > Hey...you mean you put your wife & family through the ultrasonic > > cleaner too? Sounds like a great alternative to the bathtub... :-) > > > > Regards, > > Tony > > > > ======== Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking Subject: Re: Cutting hex holes in drill rod From: Robert Bastow Date: Wed, 10 Feb 1999 19:35:51 GMT -------- Matt Stawicki (APP Leader) wrote: > I think you slipped. The pilot drill may be a a thou or 2 larger than the > DISTANCE ACCROSS THE FLATS, not accross the corners. If you make the hole > slightly larger than the distance accross the corners, you'll have nothing > left to broach. DEAD RIGHT Matt...See my follow up post on this point. And Hey, dont't EVER hesitate to try to prove me wrong on any point!..just stay away from personal attacks and you will get no grief from me That's what this forum is all about. ;^) Robert Bastow ======== Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking Subject: Re: Stitch Welding ? From: Robert Bastow Date: Wed, 10 Feb 1999 19:41:41 GMT -------- Try searching umder "Metal-Stitch" I used an outfit in Sheffield, England, to repair a huge press frame casting once Yes the process is Lloyds approved for See Going Vessels. There are many example of castings etc., braeking again...but never at the stitch mend. Robert Bastow ======== Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking Subject: Re: Stitch Welding ? From: Robert Bastow Date: Wed, 10 Feb 1999 19:47:25 GMT -------- Try: http://www.metalcoatings.com/stitchingmetal.htm Robert Bastow Robert Bastow wrote: > > Try searching umder "Metal-Stitch" I used an outfit in Sheffield, England, to > repair a huge press frame casting once > > Yes the process is Lloyds approved for See Going Vessels. > > There are many example of castings etc., braeking again...but never at the > stitch mend. > > Robert Bastow Robert Bastow wrote: > > Try searching umder "Metal-Stitch" I used an outfit in Sheffield, England, to > repair a huge press frame casting once > > Yes the process is Lloyds approved for See Going Vessels. > > There are many example of castings etc., braeking again...but never at the > stitch mend. > > Robert Bastow ======== Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking Subject: Re: How to true up chuck jaws From: Robert Bastow Date: Wed, 10 Feb 1999 19:57:29 GMT -------- THANK YOU Norman!! Printed and safely filed. Robert Bastow Norman Yarvin wrote: > > Robert Bastow wrote: > > >At that time I was given a simple geometric formula that, once you had > >taken a clean up skim off the jaws and replaced them in the chuck, all > >one needed to do was to indicate a test bar, determine the value of the > >maximum TIR AND its PRECISE angular position to say, jaw one. > > > >You then applied the formula and it told you EXACTLY how much to grind > >off each jaw in sequence. > > > >I have searched high and low for that formula without success. It is > >beyond my rusty math now, but I am sure one of our listers can figure it > >out on his trusty slip stick. ;^) > > Pencil and paper is all that is needed (and that just for doodling): > > c = x * (1 + cos(theta)) > > where: > > c is the amount to grind off, > > x is the distance by which the center is to be moved (half of the > total indicated runout), and > > theta is the angle between the jaw in question and the point on > the surface of the bar that was closest to the center. > > -- > Norman Yarvin yarvin@cs.yale.edu ======== Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking Subject: Re: Cutting hex holes in drill rod From: Robert Bastow Date: Thu, 11 Feb 1999 06:15:02 GMT -------- It seems the hardness of high grade allen wrenches is in the 45 to 50 range which falls in line with their need to be at maximum toughness. I have run into much harder Examples but the snap easily.(I don't seem to be able to find a good metric set. Most of the good ones are advertised as "vanadium" which leads me to suspect they would be something like 4340 or 4350. Tough as old boots but not exactly what I would choose for a cutting tool. Robert Bastow Ted Edwards wrote: > > Robert Bastow wrote: > > > That is probably the quickest and easiest way. If you only need a few Parts, > > just use a short section of allen wrench. This is a bit on the soft side for > > this application, but if you don't mind regrinding a few times it will do the > > What steel do they generally use in Allen wrenches? Could one just > harden and temper it? > > Ted ======== Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking Subject: Re: Harbor Freight "Auction"??? From: Robert Bastow Date: Thu, 11 Feb 1999 06:19:28 GMT -------- SHUSH Jeff..let everyone believe it is all high priced junk!!! ;^) Robert Bastow Who is delighted with the stuff he's been "conned" into buying! 8^) jeffpa@microsoft.com wrote: > Its definately "caveat emptor", but in all fairness, shop around, there are > some really attractive deals there... ======== Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking Subject: Re: How to true up chuck jaws From: Robert Bastow Date: Fri, 12 Feb 1999 02:37:43 GMT -------- Wish it were so simple Bill but I don't believe it is. Robert Bastow Norman Yarvin wrote: > > Bill Darby wrote, in response to the formula I > posted: > > >Could you just zero an indicator on a test bar opposite the jaw that was > >furthest from center then indicate and record the readings opposite the other > >two jaws then take them down a corresponding amount? > > Yes, that would work even better than using the formula. > > >Perhaps I'm not getting the point of this exercise. > > There wasn't much of one, not on my part anyway. > > -- > Norman Yarvin yarvin@cs.yale.edu ======== Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking Subject: Re: What's a CAR reamer? From: Robert Bastow Date: Fri, 12 Feb 1999 02:49:38 GMT -------- Well it looks kinda like a BRIDGE Reamer, and I'm not sure if that means it was originally used to build bridges or it just meant it was used to "bridge" over two mismatched holes. We used them in boilermaking and machine frame building to finish-align holes for 'Fitting Bolts'. (When was the last time you came across one of those?) Other than the length and extremity of taper it is a ringer for a bridge reamer. Could the "Car" have something to do with railroad car frames..Or more likely the fitting of axle bearing slides? Robert Bastow pjones@caltel.com wrote: > > Hi: > > Got this a swap meet. Dormer HSS CAR reamer. > #B122 3/4". Is this a special for a particular > purpose? Picture is at: > > http://www.caltel.com/~pjones/reamer.jpg > > Thanks.....Paul > > -----------== Posted via Deja News, The Discussion Network ==---------- > http://www.dejanews.com/ Search, Read, Discuss, or Start Your Own ======== Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking Subject: Re: adhesives From: Robert Bastow Date: Fri, 12 Feb 1999 02:55:27 GMT -------- Well Routerbitguru, there are several adhesives that will bond metal to metal (ever tried "Gorilla Glue"?) But when you start talking about a bond that would be stronger than the (carbide) base metal I think you are just dreaming!!! When you find it..let me know and I will pay you whatever you ask for the Icelandic and Papuan rights!! ;^) I'm an optimist too! Robert Bastow routerbitguru wrote: > > Does anybody know of an adhesive that would bond carbide to carbide, steel > to steel, steel to carbide etc. > to the point that the joint is not the weakest point and can handle temp. in > excess of 1000 deg. F. > > Any suggestions would be appreciated. > > thanks. ======== Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking Subject: Re: How to true up chuck jaws From: Robert Bastow Date: Fri, 12 Feb 1999 04:21:44 GMT -------- But the way I was taught didn't require "Iterations" (Stop that..You'll go blind!!) And "pretty close " isn't what we are trying to achieve here!! With a few "iterations" with a big hammer and a couple of shims, any one can get "Pretty Close" Robert Bastow Joe Way wrote: > > On Fri, 12 Feb 1999 02:37:43 GMT, Robert Bastow > wrote: > > After two or three iterations one would be pretty close, I think. > > Joe > === > >Wish it were so simple Bill but I don't believe it is. > > > >Robert Bastow > > > >Norman Yarvin wrote: > >> > >> Bill Darby wrote, in response to the formula I > >> posted: > >> > >> >Could you just zero an indicator on a test bar opposite the jaw that was > >> >furthest from center then indicate and record the readings opposite the other > >> >two jaws then take them down a corresponding amount? > >> > >> Yes, that would work even better than using the formula. > >> > >> >Perhaps I'm not getting the point of this exercise. > >> > >> There wasn't much of one, not on my part anyway. > >> > >> -- > >> Norman Yarvin yarvin@cs.yale.edu ======== Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking Subject: Re: 0.007" 304 ss wire - what do I do with it? From: Robert Bastow Date: Fri, 12 Feb 1999 04:24:09 GMT -------- Hair weaving?? ;^) isaac wrote: > > Anyone have an idea on what to do with 304SS wire? > > Mostly 0.007 inch diameter. Continuous lengths up > to, say up to 10 oz. on a spool. It was scrap > from a previous employer which I rescued. Just > found it again while burrowing behind other > treasures. > > Any (preferably constructive) ideas? > > P.Isaac ======== Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking Subject: Re: adhesives From: Robert Bastow Date: Fri, 12 Feb 1999 15:51:06 GMT -------- I think you will find that the tips on your old Myford tools are BRAZED on ..Not BONDED!! Mine are! Robert Bastow Steve Rayner wrote: > > I don't know of a brand, but it certainly exists. Myfords have been > selling mild steel shanks with HSS ends cemented on for decades. of a set > I purchased when my now elderly Myford was new, only the cut off tool > failed. Some of the others have been resharpened down to a nub, but the > bond held. > > routerbitguru (router@twave.net) wrote: > : Does anybody know of an adhesive that would bond carbide to carbide, steel > : to steel, steel to carbide etc. > : to the point that the joint is not the weakest point and can handle temp. in > : excess of 1000 deg. F. > > : Any suggestions would be appreciated. > > : thanks. > > -- > > I'm a Canadian eh! Steve. > ************************************************************************** > The FAQ for rec.crafts.metalworking is at: http://w3.uwyo.edu/~metal > The metalworking drop box is at http://208.213.200.132 > ************************************************************************** > Visit my website at: http://www.victoria.tc.ca/~ud233/homepage.htm > > ************* Tu ne cede malis, sed contra audentior ito. **************** > ******************************** - Virgil ******************************** > ******Yield thou not to adversity, but press on the more bravely.********** ======== Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking Subject: Re: Screwed, machinery and hammers. From: Robert Bastow Date: Fri, 12 Feb 1999 16:15:06 GMT -------- Yes John, Although CounterSINKS usually come with nominal screw size pilots, you can get counterBORES in three varieties (or more): Nominal screw size (eg 1/4" x 13/32" for a 1/4" cap head BOLT) Clearance size (eg 9/32"x 13/32" for a 1/4" cap head SCREW) (Which one you choose to use may depend on whether you prefer your heads to be centered in the BOLT-EE or the BOLT-ED.If you catch my drift!! 8^) The most useful is a set of replaceable pilot Counterbores which can also serve as spotfacing cutters. Robert Bastow John Hofstad-Parkhill wrote: > On the subject of SHCS. Are there actually piloted countersinks with a pilot > that actually fits the standard body drill size hole? ======== Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking Subject: Re: Cutting small involute cam on lathe/mill? From: Robert Bastow Date: Fri, 12 Feb 1999 16:20:22 GMT -------- That is as good a way as any..Absent a CNC setup. With careful grinding/filing you should be able to "split the line" and that will be damn close to "dead on" Robert Bastow Ramset wrote: > > I'm making a replacement part for a key machine. The cam is about .100" thick > with a .250" hole to mount on a shaft. The diameter starts at about .350" and > increases to about .500" through 360 degrees of rotation. I was able to layout > the piece on a slug from an electrical box. I drilled a .067" hole in the > slug, wrapped a piece of fine wire one turn around a screw I put in the hole, > attached a scribe to the end of the wire and scribed a line on the slug while > unwrapping the wire. It turned out pretty good and will try grinding the slug > to the layout line. > > Any better ideas? > I have a Shearline mill and lathe. > > Best Regards > Kevin T ======== Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking Subject: Re: what size level do I need From: Robert Bastow Date: Sat, 13 Feb 1999 01:28:29 GMT -------- That would be what they call in Yorkshire "A hiding to nowhere!!" Robert Bastow John Wasser wrote: > Feel free to decide for yourself if the error is caused > by your headstock or bed and correct whichever you like. ======== Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking Subject: Re: Clausing 6300 series lathe From: Robert Bastow Date: Sat, 13 Feb 1999 01:37:29 GMT -------- Hi Daniel, What you have is a standard turret which take round shank tooling of standard sizes...5/8" 3/4" 1" 1 1/4" diameter etc. Yes you should be able to find taper adaptors plus a whole universe of neat tooling for this turret. The stuff tends to be VERY expensive new! But if you shop around AND KNOW WHAT YOU ARE LOOKING FOR!!!!..You will be able to buy it for pennies a pound. First you need to read up on the subject. Turret lathe setup is a whole different world than a center lathe. Get a good book on the subject...I have seen them go for a few dollars on Ebay. Good Hunting, Robert Bastow > Daniel Becker wrote: > > > Hello, > > > > I just bought a Clausing 6329 lathe. Factory said it is 1961 vintage. There > > is a turret tail stock. The turret does not use a taper set up. Instead it > > uses a straight round that is held in by a wedging bolt. Does this type of > > system have a formal name? Are there sleeves avalible which allow the use > > of a taper end tool in such? Is there a source for centers to fit this type > > of turret? ======== Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking Subject: Re: new to list From: Robert Bastow Date: Sat, 13 Feb 1999 01:40:17 GMT -------- me wrote: " Me" You cannot possibly be ME!! I'm ME!! You must be "YOU" Whoever you are..Come out and join the fun!! Robert bastow ======== Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking Subject: Re: Southbend 14x36 FS on EBAY From: Robert Bastow Date: Sat, 13 Feb 1999 02:11:33 GMT -------- Kevin Pinkerton wrote: Sound advise indeed Kevin! How do I open more than one window on it? I need one to monitor ("Reload" every few seconds etc.) and a couple open at "review" or "place bid". Thanks, Robert Bastow > Keep and eye on it, especially during the last 15 minutes. If it stays > in your price range, get one or two Netscape/IE windows open to it > pointing at the bid page or the bid verify page. Use another window to > monitor the bidding. Wait until about 30 seconds or so before the end > and go for it. If you are bidding, bid your max amount you would pay > at that point, even if it is $500 more then the current bid. That way > someone might just try a $100 bid higher at the last seconds and not > go past your bid. > > Kevin > > My Gun Page: http://extra.newsguy.com/~kpinkert/ ======== Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking Subject: Re:extra windows on EBAY From: Robert Bastow Date: Sat, 13 Feb 1999 03:29:51 GMT -------- Thanks Joe, Now I am going to be REALLY dangerous on Ebay!! (No I am NOT going to quote your answer!!) ;^) Robert Bas Joe Way wrote: > To open another instance of Netscape, ======== Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking Subject: Re: adhesives From: Robert Bastow Date: Sat, 13 Feb 1999 04:47:01 GMT -------- If the "tips" are HSS and the shanks are MS then they will have been flash butt welded together..regardless of what the package calls it. I might be ready to believe that some incredible new adhesive has been discovered that would stand up to the strain on a parting tool. But several years ago..NO WAY!! Robert Bastow Steve Rayner wrote: > > No, mine are bonded. It said so on the package. Note these are Hss ends on > Mild Steel shanks. The bond is vertical, the parting tool failed along the > joint. > > Robert Bastow (Teenut@hotmail.com) wrote: > : I think you will find that the tips on your old Myford tools are BRAZED on ..Not > : BONDED!! > > : Mine are! > > : Robert Bastow > > : Steve Rayner wrote: > : > > : > I don't know of a brand, but it certainly exists. Myfords have been > : > selling mild steel shanks with HSS ends cemented on for decades. of a set > : > I purchased when my now elderly Myford was new, only the cut off tool > : > failed. Some of the others have been resharpened down to a nub, but the > : > bond held. > : > > : > routerbitguru (router@twave.net) wrote: > : > : Does anybody know of an adhesive that would bond carbide to carbide, steel > : > : to steel, steel to carbide etc. > : > : to the point that the joint is not the weakest point and can handle temp. in > : > : excess of 1000 deg. F. > : > > : > : Any suggestions would be appreciated. > : > > : > : thanks. > : > > : > -- > : > > : > I'm a Canadian eh! Steve. > : > ************************************************************************** > : > The FAQ for rec.crafts.metalworking is at: http://w3.uwyo.edu/~metal > : > The metalworking drop box is at http://208.213.200.132 > : > ************************************************************************** > : > Visit my website at: http://www.victoria.tc.ca/~ud233/homepage.htm > : > > : > ************* Tu ne cede malis, sed contra audentior ito. **************** > : > ******************************** - Virgil ******************************** > : > ******Yield thou not to adversity, but press on the more bravely.********** > > -- > > I'm a Canadian eh! Steve. > ************************************************************************** > The FAQ for rec.crafts.metalworking is at: http://w3.uwyo.edu/~metal > The metalworking drop box is at http://208.213.200.132 > ************************************************************************** > Visit my website at: http://www.victoria.tc.ca/~ud233/homepage.htm > > ************* Tu ne cede malis, sed contra audentior ito. **************** > ******************************** - Virgil ******************************** > ******Yield thou not to adversity, but press on the more bravely.********** ======== Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking Subject: Re: what size level do I need From: Robert Bastow Date: Sat, 13 Feb 1999 15:14:04 GMT -------- mulligan@advinc.com wrote: > > If it is the headstock, loosen the bolts holding the headstock to > the bed. Hold the bed steady and move the headstock into alignment. > > If the bed is off, loosen the bolts that hold the bed to the > headstock. Hold the headstock still and shift the bed till alignment > is achieved. I am sincerely hoping that a few "smiley's" were omitted from my copy of this ;^) 8^) 8^) Robert Bastow ======== To: routerbitguru Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking Subject: Re: adhesives From: Robert Bastow Date: Sun, 14 Feb 1999 02:10:03 GMT -------- Kinda figured that was what you were trying to do..But why? What extra benefit do you see in bonding rather than brazing? Brazed on carbide tips in metalworking stand up to far higher temperatures and shock loadings than could ever be produced in cutting wood. I have run them at a dull red heat without problems, and, with the right grade of carbide, on interupted cuts that shook the building! I use "woodworking" carbide router bits regularly on hardwoods, Composite boards, plastics, fibreglass, and non-ferous metals...I wear 'em out but the "bond" (braze) never lets go un less I REALLY munch 'em. Curiously, Robert Bastow routerbitguru wrote: > > Thanks for everyones responses. > > I'm trying to bond carbibe to steel in a router bit without the heat of > silver brazing. ======== To: Kurt Bjorn Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking Subject: Re: Please check my shop out... From: Robert Bastow Date: Sun, 14 Feb 1999 02:32:13 GMT -------- BEAUTIFUL!!!!!!! Robert Bastow Kurt Bjorn wrote: > > At the request of some friends, I have made a www site at > http://www.flash.net/~pyroware with details of my shop and current > 9-cylinder radial engine project. There are plenty of photos, including the > current project, some old completed engines, and details of foundry work > showing the casting of an impellor in aluminum with a Pyramid furnace and > petrobond sand. > > Eventually, I hope to have some good links and shop hints and anecdotes to > go with it. The site is 80% complete. Let me know what you think! > > Thanks gang, > > Kurt Bjorn ======== Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking Subject: Receiving posts. From: Robert Bastow Date: Sun, 14 Feb 1999 06:42:38 GMT -------- I am not sure that the ISP is at fault. I use Netscape messenger via (if that is the term) Bellsouth.net for two different newsgroups. This one (rec.crafts metalworking) always downloads messages very quickly...indeed it is usually only a few seconds after I post a message to it coming up on my screen if I hit "Get Message" On the other hand "rec.guns" seems to wait until it has 200 to 300 messages before it will down load to me or show "unread messages" Often it is two to three days before I can get a new batch. My posts there don't appear on my screen until up to a week has passed. Does anyone know why two ng's on the same server should act so differently? Robert Bastow ======== Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking Subject: Re: Receiving posts. From: Robert Bastow Date: Sun, 14 Feb 1999 06:43:59 GMT -------- Got this and replied inside a minute!! Robert Bastow wrote: > > This one (rec.crafts metalworking) always downloads messages very > quickly...indeed it is usually only a few seconds after I post a message to it > coming up on my screen if I hit "Get Message" > ======== To: Gary Coffman Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking Subject: Re: Receiving posts. From: Robert Bastow Date: Sun, 14 Feb 1999 20:03:29 GMT -------- Thanks Gary, That would explain the difference. I agree that moderation is required on any guns NG..the subject does seem to bring out some SCARY people!! I looked at alt.guns.politics once...Whoo-Boy!!! Robert Bastow Gary Coffman wrote: > Ah, Robert, rec.guns is a *moderated* newsgroup. Your post is sent to the > moderator, who reviews it, *then* it is posted to the group. That's why you > see the posts there appear in batches. Remember the moderator is a > volunteer, and has a life, so he may not get around to reviewing messages > for a day or two. The group is moderated so that those who don't understand > that gun control means hitting the target won't turn it into a flamefest. > > Gary > Gary Coffman KE4ZV | You make it |mail to ke4zv@bellsouth.net > 534 Shannon Way | We break it | > Lawrenceville, GA | Guaranteed | ======== Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking Subject: Re: Victor Machinery Exchange From: Robert Bastow Date: Mon, 15 Feb 1999 02:39:11 GMT -------- Yes, several times, and I am a "satisfied client" Robert Bastow JVGilbert wrote: > > Has anyone purchaced from this company? ======== Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking Subject: Re: knurl pattern From: Robert Bastow Date: Mon, 15 Feb 1999 17:52:18 GMT -------- This is usually done with a "Chequering File". You can buy them from Brownells. Robert Bastow William Dubin wrote: > > Hello, > > Can anyone tell me how to put the raised diamond pattern that looks like > the same thing you get when you knurl on a lathe, on to a flat surface? > > I am working with very small brass pieces 1/2 inch across X 1/16 inch > thick. > > Thank you in advance > > Wm. ======== Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking Subject: Re: OT Re: Nasty answering machine messages. Was SNOWED IN!!!! From: Robert Bastow Date: Tue, 16 Feb 1999 23:57:56 GMT -------- "You have reached the Cabinet Room.Please hang up and dial your number again..." This is Robert, Sorry I can't take your call right now..But please leave a message and I'll get back to you as soon as I make bail!!!" "Heaven...God speaking...." RB Brian Hornaday wrote: > Dummm Dummm Dummm Were sorry, the number you have reached is no longer in > service, if you believe you have reached this number in error, please hang > up and dial again..... > ======== Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking Subject: Re: Used machinery for sale in North Central Area From: Robert Bastow Date: Wed, 17 Feb 1999 01:43:45 GMT -------- "CHAARGE!!!" John Lovallo wrote: > > I am thinking about closing down my "home" shop. The only problem is > that I don't want to get in the hassel of trying to ship this stuff. I > am located near Milwaukee, WI. and the buyer would have to pick it up > here (might be able to get a couple of neighbors to help move it out of > basement for a case of beer!). > > Clausing 8520 vertical milling machine. > Very nice condition, completely rebuilt, two milling vises, full set > of #2 Morse collets, Complete set of ETB DA collets and collet chuck, > numerous #2 Morse end mill holders. 6" Rotary table (never used). > Motor is original single phase. Color is John Deere Green. Table was > blanchard ground when rebuilt. Also have boring head, but no shank. > Price: $1750 cash and carry > > South Bend 9" X 24 Model C Bench Lathe > This lathe has been completely reconditioned and is in excellent > shape. > Also includes a Southbend gearbox leadscrew assembly to convert it to > a Model A quick-change unit + power crossfeed apron. Unit still shows > much of the original scraping on the ways. Priced with out chucks, > see below. Color is John Deere Green. > Price: $900.00 > > South Bend 10K Cabinet Lathe > This is the latest one in here. I have reconditioned most of it, > still > have a little problem on the tailstock. Floor standing unit will > underneath drive, I think the motor is three phase. Of course this is > a quick-change gearbox unit. This unit has a quick release collet > chuck and a couple of 3 jaw chucks. Color is John Deere Green. > Price $1100.00 > > Chucks for lathes > I have a 3 jaw and a 4 jaw chuck that will fit either lathe. Also > a Jacobs Rubber-Flex collet chuck that will fit either. Also a > Southbend heavy steel tapped faceplate that will fit either. Not > really interested in selling these unless both lathes sell.... > > Well thats enough for today, happy scheming... > > John > jlovallo@ticon.net ======== To: Tom Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking Subject: Re: Overexposure to carbide grinding From: Robert Bastow Date: Wed, 17 Feb 1999 05:29:09 GMT -------- I have heard of this before in conection with long term carbide grinding and I hear it is pretty serious stuff. I suggest: A. Quit now! B Do some serious web searching on the subject. C Get a good Lawyer and sue your employer. This may not have been a recognised problem 13 years age..but if I heard about it ten years ago..they sure the hell should have!! Good luck, Get well. Robert Bastow Tom wrote: > > Wonder if any of you machinists here can help? I've been a carbide tool > grinder for 13 years and have done this kind of work in a non-ventilated > shop, and without a dust mask. Now, I'm paying the price. > I've had extreme coughing fits for a year. Have had 2 bronchoscopy > surgeries with no results. Now in 2 days I get hospitalized to have a > lung biopsy. All this to find out if carbide and/or its alloys are > affecting me. Oh, I've also lost 25 pounds in the last 3 months. > Now, my question is: is this rare or have I been an ignorant > machinist? > I'll let you know how the biopsy went....if my lungs blow back up. > Thanks for letting me spill my > ...lungs. > > TK > > ----------------------------------------------------------------------- ======== Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking Subject: Re: Plastics Fabrication Web Site From: Robert Bastow Date: Thu, 18 Feb 1999 19:55:42 GMT -------- Both alt-248 = ° and alt-0176 = ° work for me. Thanks Robert Bastow Spehro Pefhany wrote: > But, anyway, to answer your question, you hold down the "Alt" key and type > 0176 on the numeric keypad, then release the Alt key, and if the font has > that symbol it should come out. ======== Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking Subject: Re: Interesting places for a HSM to visit in Toronto From: Robert Bastow Date: Thu, 18 Feb 1999 20:09:56 GMT -------- Didn't Ford Machinery used to be Down Town Tronna? With a couple of other used machinery places right next door. If it is the place I am thinking about..it was a HSM's dream world!! Is "Can-Do Bookshop" still open on (I think) Queen Street? Another Mecca to visit. Be sure to check the local newspapers classified section too, especially for the Hamilton/Burlington/Stoney Creek area..There are more Machine Shops, HSM's and Dachinery Dealers there than you can shake a stick at!! Robert Bastow Doug Speck wrote: > > Hey! Don't you snub my home town! :P :) > Ford Machinery Supply is in the Northeast of the city (but he's the one > with 9" South Bend lathes in the city), 50 West Pearce, (905) 882-6317. > This is near the Buttonville Airport, for those who are curious - other > end of the city from Pearson Airport. ======== Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking Subject: Re: Interesting places for a HSM to visit in Toronto From: Robert Bastow Date: Thu, 18 Feb 1999 20:14:53 GMT -------- Another "Must Go" place is the Hamilton Steam Museum at the Old Pumping Station. They have a GORGEOUS Twin Beam Engine that used to run under steam on Sundays. I believe now it is just a stationary exhibit, but well worth a visit. There is (was?) a permanent "Live Steamers" track there too! Enjoy!! Robert Bastow Arthur F. Ross wrote: > > Only there once, but visited a wonderful science museum they have there, > with an old Brit. loco cut in half so you can see how all the bits work- I > must have spent an hour tracing all the tubing connections, valves, etc. > and finally got it straight in my head how a steam loco does it's thing. > > Arthur > > Jon Pritchard wrote in article > ... > > I'm going to be stuck in Toronto for a day a couple of weeks down the > road. > > Funny how this business travel works...the execs get the plane > connections > > that work properly...the grunts lose a day out of their life to save the > > company $1500 in plane fare. > > > > Can anyone suggest interesting places to visit for new/used machine tools > > and accessories? Any surplus mechanical/electrical places worth looking > at? > > How about museums where one can look at old iron instead of dinosaur > bones? > > > > Thanks, > > Jon Pritchard. > > > > > > > > ======== To: paul_probus@yahoo.com Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking Subject: Re: Machinist Workshop Magazine Question From: Robert Bastow Date: Thu, 18 Feb 1999 20:16:21 GMT -------- I got mine a couple of weeks ago. Robert Bastow paul_probus@yahoo.com wrote: > > I'm just curious, I've seen a couple of posts referring to the new Machinist > Workshop Magazine (formerly PIM). Has anyone who subscribed to PIM received > their copy yet? If so, how long ago? ======== To: paul_probus@yahoo.com Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking Subject: Re: Machinist Workshop Magazine Question From: Robert Bastow Date: Thu, 18 Feb 1999 20:16:29 GMT -------- I got mine a couple of weeks ago. Robert Bastow paul_probus@yahoo.com wrote: > > I'm just curious, I've seen a couple of posts referring to the new Machinist > Workshop Magazine (formerly PIM). Has anyone who subscribed to PIM received > their copy yet? If so, how long ago? ======== Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking Subject: Re: 75:1 ratio - the answer? From: Robert Bastow Date: Thu, 18 Feb 1999 20:22:43 GMT -------- It makes more sense than anything else I have heard or thought of!! But I believe this was an old (Pre-stepper/CNC) head with manual handle and dividing plates. Robert Bastow Tony Jeffree wrote: > > Some while back there was a thread that caused lots of scratched > heads...someone reported a dividing head with a 75:1 worm drive & no > satisfactory answer was forthcoming as to *why* 75:1 (as opposed to > the more conventional 40, 60, 90 etc. ratios). How about this: > > - 75:1 means 4.8 degrees rotation of the wheel per rotation of the > worm > > - Steper motors commonly have step angles of 1.8, 7.5 and 15 degrees. > A 7.5 degree/step motor takes 48 steps to perform a full rotation (or > 96 steps in half-step mode). > > - Slap a 7.5 degree/step motor on the worm shaft and you have made a > 10 steps/degree (20 half-steps/degree) stepper controlled dividing > head. > > The same rationale would work for 15 degrees/step, but not for 1.8 > degrees/step. > > So my guess is that the dividing head described was intended for some > CNC-based application & would normally have had a stepper attached. > > Does this make any sense? > > Regards, > Tony > > http://www.jeffree.u-net.com/ > > "If you're not confused, you're ill-informed" ======== Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking Subject: Re: Rotary aircraft engines (Was: Please check my shop out...) From: Robert Bastow Date: Thu, 18 Feb 1999 20:27:46 GMT -------- Now you've REALLY Pissed me off!!!! ;^) Robert Bastow PLAlbrecht wrote: > > >3 Porsches?? Is that so as you can count on at least one being in > >running order at any one time?? :-) > > Uh, not quite. You must be thinking of Jag-hew-ars. ======== To: brian@uunet.ca Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking Subject: Re: Interesting places for a HSM to visit in Toronto From: Robert Bastow Date: Thu, 18 Feb 1999 23:06:52 GMT -------- Alas, no longer (;^) I couldn't take the cold any more. I am now in "Hotlanta" (a HSM's DESERT!!!) I lived in Stoney Creek for a while and ran a couple of machine shops there. (Me and a coupla hundred others!! Very competitive...Cut metal or DIE!!) Robert Bastow Brian Evans wrote: > > Are you from the Hamilton area, Robert? I'm in Dundas, just up the hill from > Hamilton on the north side. > ======== Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking Subject: Re: Where is Ron Moore? From: Robert Bastow Date: Fri, 19 Feb 1999 02:48:28 GMT -------- Rhbuxton wrote: > > Hi Folks, > Ron Moore use to post here and he hasn't for almost a month. I am concerned > for two reasons. The first is that he owes me money.... Lets get the priorities right. Eh? >.......and the second is I am concerned about him! >Does anyone know anything about him or what has happened > to him? > Rick ======== Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking Subject: Re: Wotta Place! From: Robert Bastow Date: Fri, 19 Feb 1999 02:55:53 GMT -------- Jim, If you have any two brain cells talking to the other one, you need to get back in there with donuts, coffee, cigarettes, booze, dancing girls...WHATEVER it takes. No matter if some one threatens the life of your first born child do NOT divulge the whereabouts of this mother lode to ANYONE (except me) ;^) Robert Bastow > I guess I owe them some doughnuts, eh? > > Jim ======== Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking Subject: Re: Plastics Fabrication Web Site From: Robert Bastow Date: Fri, 19 Feb 1999 06:09:10 GMT -------- What the F*** are you talking about DoN??????????? ;^) Please don't try to confuse me with facts...I was just happy that it works for me!! 8^) Robert Bastow DoN. Nichols wrote: > > In article <36CB1F7F.A882A5B0@hotmail.com>, > Robert Bastow wrote: > >Both alt-248 = ° and alt-0176 = ° work for me. > > Well ... they both give the same code, as you can see from this > formatted hex dump of the line in question (follow the arrows): > > ====================================================================== > | > V > 000003a0: b0 20 20 61 6e 64 20 20 61 6c 74 2d 30 31 37 36 | 0 and alt-0176 > 000003b0: 20 3d 20 b0 20 20 77 6f 72 6b 20 66 6f 72 20 6d | = 0 work for m > ^ > | > ====================================================================== > > Exactly why you get the same code from two different inputs is a > good question. I would think that the one with the leading zero to be > perhaps octal, but the conversion is not correct. The octal 176 should be > decimal 126, which is the '~' (tilde) character. The 248 must be decimal, > and that works out to 0370 (octal), or 0xF8 (hexadecimal). The actual code > *sent* was 0xb0 hex (see the formatted dump), or 176 decimal (hmm ... *that* > matches your second alt code), or 0260 octal. > > As it turns out, they both look right to me (Sun workstation) when > using the pager to *read* the article, but they appear as '0' in the editor > while composing this response -- which again supports the suggestion that > you *not* use these (or any character which you need the 'ALT' key to > create. It will show up correctly on *some* systems, but on others will > simply leave people scratching their heads. :-) > > If you want to see the extreme of that -- look at the spams from the > Ukraine in Cyrillic. :-) > > Enjoy, > DoN. > -- > NOTE: spamblocking on against servers which harbor spammers. > Email: | Donald Nichols (DoN.)|Voice (703) 938-4564 > My Concertina web page: | http://www.d-and-d.com/dnichols/DoN.html > --- Black Holes are where God is dividing by zero --- ======== Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking Subject: Re: brass vs. bronze bushings From: Robert Bastow Date: Fri, 19 Feb 1999 14:35:21 GMT -------- He did say he was making a Homebuilt 'Plane Tony!! In ANY application, bronze is superior to brass as a bearing material..even clocks!! Robert Bastow Tony Jeffree wrote: > Depends on the application, as always...if you're making a clock, > brass plates and wheels with steel pinions and steel arbors seems to > work just fine, with a re-bushing required every coupla hundred years > or so on the bits that get heavy wear. I don't think I would advocate > phosphor bronze as a clockmaking material... > > Regards, > Tony > > http://www.jeffree.u-net.com/ > > "If you're not confused, you're ill-informed" ======== Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking Subject: Re: Machinist Workshop Magazine Question From: Robert Bastow Date: Fri, 19 Feb 1999 14:45:42 GMT -------- Don't worry Guys...He'll get back to metalworking in another couple of months!! Hey Paul, can your new Bride tell the difference between Brass and Steel swarf yet? In the DARK?? ;^) Robert Bastow paul wrote: > My wife and I just got married recently, and what gets me are all those > bridal magazines. You see them in bookstores and grocery stores on sale all > the time, but if you go to a bridal show, they practically force them on you > for free. I don't see how they can stay in business giving away so many > magazines (for each one there'd be stacks and stacks of them even at very > small shows). A better question is, knowing this, why would anyone buy them > or, better yet, subscribe to them? Around here (No. Virginia), it seems > there's a bridal show of somekind at least once every couple of months. > (Funny how you don't notice these things until you get engaged and go through > it.) > > Paul Probus > paul_probus@yahoo.com > > -----------== Posted via Deja News, The Discussion Network ==---------- > http://www.dejanews.com/ Search, Read, Discuss, or Start Your Own ======== Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking Subject: Re: Sherline 2000 mill From: Robert Bastow Date: Fri, 19 Feb 1999 14:55:40 GMT -------- As I point out to SWMBO...It's cheaper than a BOAT!! (But of course...Most things are!!) Robert Bastow (Who gave up Loose Women, Fast Cars, Slow Horses and Hard Liquor to buy his first Myford!!) shoptask wrote: > This is a good point- consider the years you will have your machine >and the seriousness with which you approach your hobby, then the price >becomes a secondary factor- ======== Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking Subject: Re: Drill press vibration (sorry!) From: Robert Bastow Date: Fri, 19 Feb 1999 15:08:56 GMT -------- As I have publicly stated several times on this NG..My Delta 16" is the worst POS I ever had the misfortune of paying hard earned cash for!! It vibrates itself across the floor at ANY speed. A replacement motor from Delta, plus new, high grade belts, have done nothing to improve it. This sorry heap of junk is slowly working its way up my priority list, for a complete teardown, balance and rebuild. That is, if I don't take a BFH to it first! A few years ago I had a similar machine from Busy Bee (Yeh! Really!) that ran as sweet as I could wish for. Go figure!! Robert Bastow Brian Evans wrote: > > Apologies in advance for asking a drill press question, but i did do a > dejanews search and couldn't find what I needed. > > I'm buying a new drill press to replace the wornout Jet bench model that > I now have. I looked at a Delta 16" model last night and was totally > amazed at the amount of vibration when running at the lowest speed. > stuff on the drill table walked right off it due tto the vibration! A > Delta 20" 1 HP model that I also tested was far better, at more than > twice the price, though. > > The question I'd like to get some quick feedback on is: Do all the > generic Tiwan 16" drill presses vibrate in the same way, or do I stand a > chance of finding one that will run smoothly? If they all vibrate, is > there anything that can be done to fix it without going the full rebuild > route? (I don't have a Correa mill to bore our the headstock:)) > > Finally, presuming that i can get SWMBO to free up the cash, should I > dump the idea of getting an acceptable 16" tiawan machine and look at > the 20 - 22" models? > > Thanks much, Brian ======== Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking Subject: Re: Where is Ron Moore? From: Robert Bastow Date: Sat, 20 Feb 1999 03:38:01 GMT -------- I figured that!! The written word is SO powerful.. we must all take care which way our mouths are facing before we pull the trigger. Been there, too many times! Robert Bastow Rhbuxton wrote: A poor choice of words on my part that should not be > taken in any other way. > Rick ======== Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking Subject: Re: Machinery Mounts/Pads From: Robert Bastow Date: Sat, 20 Feb 1999 03:42:18 GMT -------- >.... some say if machine is level you can set, or rough set your work >with a level; ... then indicate in... > ray mueller Never worked for me either Ray!! Roberty Bastow ======== Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking Subject: Re: Halogen bulb failure From: Robert Bastow Date: Sat, 20 Feb 1999 03:48:02 GMT -------- Just switch from Lucas Electrics!!! QED! Robert Bastow Lee Marshall wrote: > > This is getting to (what I think) is the source of the problem. > Lee ======== Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking Subject: Re: sharpening drill bits From: Robert Bastow Date: Sat, 20 Feb 1999 03:59:15 GMT -------- This is a troll..Right?? Take about an hour of your time Karl. Look..I mean really LOOK at the end of one of your drills. Take it over to the grinder and try to reproduce it..then go drill a hole with it. I know!! It doesn't work, Right!! So go do it again!! And again, 'til it does! IT WILL!!! It's called PRACTICE!!! Robert Bastow karl klein wrote: > > -Is there any way to sharpen drill bits? Got so many dull ones-seems like > a waste.- > -- > karl klein > kklein@iglou.com > http://members.iglou.com/kklein ======== Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking Subject: Re: sharpening drill bits From: Robert Bastow Date: Sat, 20 Feb 1999 04:02:02 GMT -------- Tell me your sh****ng me Dave!! >but when a drill bit is blunt it's time to throw it away. > Dave Baker ======== Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking Subject: Re: sharpening drill bits From: Robert Bastow Date: Sat, 20 Feb 1999 04:08:18 GMT -------- Well put Bob! This is a fundamental skill that needs to be mastered from day one. It takes thirty minutes, not thirty years, and if you cannot grind any drill fom # 80 to 1", to cut right and within ACCEPTABLE limits you have no business calling yourself a machinist and should take up NEEDLEPOINT!! Robert Bastow Bob & Marilyn Tonkins wrote: > > Karl, > I hope some of these young turks chime in with a newfangled machine > that sharpens drills. I've seen SOMe advertised, but never seriously > considered one. Not to say, they don't work. But we learned to do them > by hand. And I think it's a skill that can be learned. > > Oh! Oh! Sorry about memory lane. But just to say, you CAN do it. > > Blessings > BobT*** ======== Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking Subject: Re: Elliot shaper price From: Robert Bastow Date: Sat, 20 Feb 1999 05:17:15 GMT -------- Elliot made a Helluva good shaper!! 10" is a Very usable size. I paid more than that for my 8" Boxford..no regrets (it was in "new condition" The pleasure and high value of good quality far outlasts the pain of high price. I say "Go for it!!" Jens wrote: > > I have the opportunity to buy a 10" Elliot (I think) shaper in > excellent condition. The guy wants $1100 which seems awful high to me. > What would something like that be worth on average ? > > Thanks > > Jens ======== Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking Subject: Re: sharpening drill bits From: Robert Bastow Date: Sun, 21 Feb 1999 00:18:03 GMT -------- John Kunkel wrote: > For identical angles and rakes you can't beat a machine. No you can't..and I never said you could! > All this talk of he-man eyeball sharpening, sorry but I'm skeptical. A. That's because you never took the time, or ever had the need to learn! B. Anything beats throwing away a perfectly good drill just because it is blunt C. Not everyone can justify, afford or even NEEDS a drill grinder. I think that there is a lot of misperception as to the true uses and usage of a drill bit. People expect and seem to need them to drill a dead size hole and quite frankly that is a bit unrealistic for most people and NOT the way to arrive at an accurate hole. I find I very rarely use the "aliquot" sizes of drills in my sets...1/16",1/8" 1/4" etc. Why? Because I very rarely NEED a DRILLED hole of those sizes. The hole sizes I need are.. Tapping sizes...Above 1/4" plus or minus .005" doesn't make a whole hoot of PRACTICAL difference in the strength of the thread. Clearance Holes...a few thou either way doen't affect function. Fitting holes...Most often, drill, (again a few thou isn't important) bore or open up with the correct reaming size. Then ream, bore, grind or lap to dead size required. By the way, if you need a hole closer to drilled size, be aware that, if you drill it a few thou under and then follow through with the correct size of drill it will cut pretty damn close to nominal diameter. If you "break" the corners of the drill...stone a small radius on the outer corner...it will also give a close-to-reamed finish. Now before all the "Industrial" drill users jump down my throat..Yes I am aware that OCCASIONALLY the case arises when it is NICE and MORE ECONOMICAL to be able to drill pretty close to size in one shot. But please bear in mind that this is REC.CRAFTS.Metalworking. Most people looking here for advice are just happy to get a hole of ANY size when they first start out. To them I say again. Take a drill and STUDY it, see how the same tool angles you need on your turning tool are present and correct. They are just "twisted" a little bit. Take it to jour grinder and do a few "dry runs", before removing material, so as to get the hang of the twisting and swinging motion involved. I generally use the rim of the wheel for sizes between 1/8" and 1/2"..below or above that I find it easier on the flat side of the wheel. Grind a few drills! Test them! Grind them again. Practice makes perfect, it doesn't take long to get the hang of it, and like riding a bike...You never forget it. Now, as to "Teensy Little" drills... One of our regular jobs was drilling some kind of injector nozzle, No 80 size in 416 stainless. Hand feed on a Herbert #1 capstan lathe...not exactly a "sensitive" feed. Those drills were always sharpened, as required, by the operators (apprentices) It was done in a few seconds with an eye loupe and a fine slip stone. Stone in one hand, drill in the other, moving the drill on the stone. Once again, when you got the HANG of it and KNEW WHAT YOU WERE TRYING TO ACHIEVE (geometry wise)..it became a simple routine job and drill breakages were rare. Robert Bastow ======== To: Jens Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking Subject: Re: Elliot shaper price From: Robert Bastow Date: Sun, 21 Feb 1999 00:38:41 GMT -------- Jens wrote: I am now at the stage of > trying to figure out just exactly what I need a shaper for since I > have a Bridgeport clone. >I know I always wanted one. That in itself is a good enough reason Jens. There are a few tricks you can easily do on a shaper that are more difficult on a mill..either in setup time or in cost of tooling, accessories, etc. Mine gets used every day..but thats maybe because I don't have a mill!! On the other hand, justifying the cost of one..just to watch the cutter go round.....;^) Robert Bastow ======== Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking Subject: Re: Antique finish to copper From: Robert Bastow Date: Sun, 21 Feb 1999 05:01:06 GMT -------- D. Michael McIntyre wrote: > > >All the sculpture folks at UW Madison used to put bronze, brass, > >and copper pieces into the catbox for a few weeks, so they would > >acquire a patina. > > That's actually a good idea. It would probably work better than human > urine, and it's at least somewhat more sanitary than whizzing in a > bucket for a couple of weeks. Its a lot easier than trying to get a cat to sit on a bottle though!! Robert Bastow ======== Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking Subject: Re: Zippo Art From: Robert Bastow Date: Sun, 21 Feb 1999 05:15:43 GMT -------- Beautiful work Steve, which I have often admired at Knife Shows. Obviously you are man of many talents...The restored Hardinges are to DIE for!! Thank you, Robert Bastow slindsay@nyx.net wrote: > > If you looking for hand engraving I may be able to do it for you. > > Please visit my hand engraving pages and view other items that have been hand > engraved. > > Custom Hand Engraving > http://www.nyx.net/~slindsay ======== Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking Subject: Re: Snowed IN!!! From: Robert Bastow Date: Sun, 21 Feb 1999 16:28:09 GMT -------- The F-104 Starfighter was know in Germany and Canada as "The Widowmaker" Robert Bastow wayne wrote: > > A lot of those F-104 turned post holes were flown by Canada. ======== Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking Subject: Re: Dovetail milling From: Robert Bastow Date: Sun, 21 Feb 1999 17:25:21 GMT -------- I would advise not to increase the speed over that recommended for the max. diameter of the cutter. For a finishing cut..feed slowly..use lubricant..WD 40 works. Do NOT try to cut on two faces of the DT cutter together..it may chatter. If your setup will allow..try to climb mill..It will give a better finish, especially if your cutter is less than razor sharp. Robert Bastow John Anderson wrote: > > I'm fairly new to machining and have a speed/feed question. I need to clean > up a dovetail that was not cut parallel originally. There is plenty of > metal to do this. I know how to arrive at a proper speed for milling with a > normal end cutter, but am unsure as to whether the additional cutting edges > on a dovetail mill affect the speed or not. I expect with more tool edges > per revolution, the feed will be higher, but don't know whether to increase > spindle speed over what I would normally use with an end mill. Material is > 6061-T6. Machine is a Clausing 8520. > > Any suggestions appreciated. > > -- > John Anderson > anderiii@qni.com ======== Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking Subject: Re: Tap questions (novice) From: Robert Bastow Date: Mon, 22 Feb 1999 00:59:37 GMT -------- D. Michael McIntyre wrote: > > I'm fairly new to metalworking, and I'm having trouble tapping > threads. Maybe I could use a doweling jig > to start the tap... That's not a bad idea, if my doweling jig has a > 3/8" hole... You hit the nail on the head there Michael. Use a tap guide! If your dowelling jig doesn't have a 3/8" hole, then get a chunk of steel, aluminum or even hard wood. Drill a 3/8 hole through it, nice and square, on your drill press. Now clamp it on your plate, nicely centered on your tapping hole and tap merrily away. BTW, if you are raising smoke, hand tapping, you are either going too fast, using the wrong fluid, or, likliest, your tap is chipped or blunt. Happy tapping, Robert Bastow ======== Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking Subject: Re: Toolpost grinder underway From: Robert Bastow Date: Mon, 22 Feb 1999 03:28:36 GMT -------- I think a masonary drill will cause you grief Jim. Too brittle for steel. If you are intending this spindle block to be at lathe center height, why not take advantage of that. Mount the block on your tool post, drill the hole from the chuck (with a bit of pushing assistance from the tailstock) Then mount a boring bar between centers. I believe you will find a recent thread on this in Dejavu. Robert Bastow Jim Stewart wrote: > > This weekend I started work on the toolpost grinder featured in the > Jan/Feb '99 HSM. > The article specifies a 3/4" hole for the clearance hole for the shaft, > which I don't have handy. I was thinking of drilling an 9/16" hole and > opening it out to 3/4" with a freshly-sharpened masonry bit (carbide). > Anyone have thoughts? ======== Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking Subject: Re: Bison chuck service? From: Robert Bastow Date: Wed, 24 Feb 1999 15:16:59 GMT -------- The three empty tapped hole are for jacking screws to remove the backplate, which will be a firm press fit in the body. Once inside you will see three more screws, each just to the side of the pinions. Remove these and the pinions will come out of their holes. There is nothing further preventing the bevel/scroll gear from coming out. Turn the chuck upside down and with a brass or hardwood drift you can tap it out of the back. Robert bastow boris beizer wrote: > > I just landed a great 8" Bison chuck with a 1.5 x 8 back. The only numbers I > can read on it are 7193-91, which could be a serial number or model number. > It is in excellent shape but-- Apparently it had not been cleaned -- ever. > Took a lot of work to get the jaws out and clean the scroll. That's fine, but > there seems to be an accumulation of swarf and grit inside, probably on the > gear that's on the back of the scroll. The backplate was factory fitted and > the run-out is great -- but I want to clean out the garbage. > There are six hefty socket head screws on the back that apparently > attaches the backplate to the chuck. There are also 3 tapped holes 1/4-20 > that don't have anything inside -- they might be for micro-adjusting the > backplate. My quesion. > > 1. If I undo the backplate screws and remove the backplate, will I be > able to get at the gears? Clean the mess out, and regrease? > > 2. Will doing this hurt or otherwise screw up the present excellent > allignment. > > 3. Is there some secret way to get at the gears and clean it out? > > I've done the CRC bit, and everything that can be done from the outside -- > I think. > > Boris. > > -- > > ------------------------------------- > Boris Beizer Ph.D. Seminars and Consulting > 1232 Glenbrook Road on Software Testing and > Huntingdon Valley, PA 19006 Quality Assurance > > TEL: 215-572-5580 > FAX: 215-886-0144 > Email direct: bbeizer@sprintmail.com > Email (Forwarded): bbeizer@acm.org, bbeizer@ieee.org > ------------------------------------------ ======== Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking Subject: Re: Bison chuck service? From: Robert Bastow Date: Wed, 24 Feb 1999 16:43:17 GMT -------- It will be just a LIGHT "tap in" fit. Use a soft faced mallet and TAP gently around the circumferance to make sure it goes in square. Robert Bastow boris beizer wrote: > > Robert Bastow wrote in message <36D2C74C.DA8B220C@hotmail.com>... > >The three empty tapped hole are for jacking screws to remove the backplate, > >which will be a firm press fit in the body. > > Thank you. Makes sense. But putting it back together? Big press? In the > vice? Hammer and a 2x4? > > >There is nothing further preventing the bevel/scroll gear from coming out. > Turn > >the chuck upside down and with a brass or hardwood drift you can tap it out > of > >the back. > > Okay. But reassembly? > > Thank's for the poop, guys. Never took one of those apart before and I didn't > want to do something patently silly -- I've run into more than one tool whose > re-assembly was impossible. > > Boris > > ------------------------------------- > Boris Beizer Ph.D. Seminars and Consulting > 1232 Glenbrook Road on Software Testing and > Huntingdon Valley, PA 19006 Quality Assurance > > TEL: 215-572-5580 > FAX: 215-886-0144 > Email direct: bbeizer@sprintmail.com > Email (Forwarded): bbeizer@acm.org, bbeizer@ieee.org > ------------------------------------------ ======== Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking Subject: Re: toolpost grinders From: Robert Bastow Date: Wed, 24 Feb 1999 16:46:05 GMT -------- Best to cover up and suck it out. Lathes are not built like cylindrical grinders and the coolant will just wash the grit into places you DON'T want it to go!! See my imfamous piece on WAY LUBE!! 8^) Robert Bastow Jan Ben wrote: > > to protect the ways and the chuck, whould it be better to use coolant > and try to catch it, or maybe run a vacuum right by the grinding wheel? > just wanna know. > jan ======== Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking Subject: Re: Bison chuck service? From: Robert Bastow Date: Wed, 24 Feb 1999 17:03:52 GMT -------- 3 and 4 jaw chucks catch a lot of S**t!! They are also one of the easiest lathe bits to pull down, clean and reassemble. I strip and clean mine regularly, ALWAYS after a session with the tool post grinder, cast iron, or even emory cloth! I reassemble and lube with graphite..I don't want grit to stick in there and form a lapping paste. The reward is in the retention of that crisp accuracy you expect from a new chuck. Robert Bastow > > Thank's for the poop, guys. Never took one of those apart before and I didn't > > want to do something patently silly -- I've run into more than one tool whose > > re-assembly was impossible. > > > > Boris > > > > ------------------------------------- > > Boris Beizer Ph.D. Seminars and Consulting > > 1232 Glenbrook Road on Software Testing and > > Huntingdon Valley, PA 19006 Quality Assurance > > > > TEL: 215-572-5580 > > FAX: 215-886-0144 > > Email direct: bbeizer@sprintmail.com > > Email (Forwarded): bbeizer@acm.org, bbeizer@ieee.org > > ------------------------------------------ ======== To: sherwood@lucent.com Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking Subject: Re: Overexposure to carbide grinding From: Robert Bastow Date: Thu, 25 Feb 1999 00:08:07 GMT -------- The cobalt in tool steel is alloyed with the other components and does NOT carry the same risks as FREE, pure, unalloyed cobalt used as a BINDER in tungsten carbide tool bits. Nevertheless, the normal precautions, mask, positive ventilation etc., need to be taken whenever grinding or other dusty operations are carried out. Robert Bastow Chuck Sherwood wrote: > > Lets skip the legal stuff and talk about the affects of grinding toolbits > in a home shop. I grind cobalt toolbits on a Baldor carbide grinder > with white wheels. What precautions should I be taking??? > > 1) Am I taking risks by grinding dry without a mask? There is no > ventilation in my basement. I dont really grind that many tool bits, > but when I do grinding I usually grind several at one time. I typically > use 5%,10% cobalt import or mo-max tool bits. > > 2) Does wet grinding control the dust? It does seem to make the grinding > debri stay in the drip pan. > > 3) Should I move the grinder to the garage and open the door when > grinding to get some ventelation? > > 4) Anything else I should do??? > > chuck sherwood ======== To: sherwood@lucent.com Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking Subject: Re: Overexposure to carbide grinding From: Robert Bastow Date: Thu, 25 Feb 1999 00:08:16 GMT -------- The cobalt in tool steel is alloyed with the other components and does NOT carry the same risks as FREE, pure, unalloyed cobalt used as a BINDER in tungsten carbide tool bits. Nevertheless, the normal precautions, mask, positive ventilation etc., need to be taken whenever grinding or other dusty operations are carried out. Robert Bastow Chuck Sherwood wrote: > > Lets skip the legal stuff and talk about the affects of grinding toolbits > in a home shop. I grind cobalt toolbits on a Baldor carbide grinder > with white wheels. What precautions should I be taking??? > > 1) Am I taking risks by grinding dry without a mask? There is no > ventilation in my basement. I dont really grind that many tool bits, > but when I do grinding I usually grind several at one time. I typically > use 5%,10% cobalt import or mo-max tool bits. > > 2) Does wet grinding control the dust? It does seem to make the grinding > debri stay in the drip pan. > > 3) Should I move the grinder to the garage and open the door when > grinding to get some ventelation? > > 4) Anything else I should do??? > > chuck sherwood ======== Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking Subject: Re: PC briefcase instead of notebook From: Robert Bastow Date: Thu, 25 Feb 1999 00:11:37 GMT -------- DTJ6PPC wrote: > Along the same lines of this topic, I am interested in assembling a briefcase > size PC system instead of notebook size, that would allow me to take advantage > of the variety, availability, capacity, and low cost of standard desk top PC > components relative to notebook systems. The 2 inhibiting factors appear to be > the monitor/screen and small briefcase size enclosure. > > The first factor could be solved using a laptop/notebook screen, are these > available as seperate components or are they always built into the > laptop/notebook packages? If they are available who would be good source? > > Are there briefcase style and size PC cases that would accept standard desktop > size and priced componentry along with the capability to mount or house a > laptop/notebook screen/monitor, and what also would be a good source? > > Has anyone already done this? > > Any feedback would be greatly appreciated, > > Thanks, > > Don Jackson in Redondo ======== Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking Subject: Re: PC briefcase instead of notebook From: Robert Bastow Date: Thu, 25 Feb 1999 00:16:14 GMT -------- Sorry about the previous post..My finger slipped 8^) DTJ6PPC wrote: > Along the same lines of this topic, I am interested in assembling a >briefcase size PC system instead of notebook size. >The 2 inhibiting factors appear to be the monitor/screen and small >briefcase size enclosure. Then use a SUITCASE Silly!! ;^) Robert Bastow ======== Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking Subject: Re: Spelling From: Robert Bastow Date: Thu, 25 Feb 1999 16:26:49 GMT -------- There are three 2's in French...Tu and Tou-Tou! Robert Bastow Eddy Wells wrote: > > You guys tell me how to spell: > > There are three '2's in the English language... > > Eddy Wells ======== Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking Subject: Re: Methodology? making rifle brass From: Robert Bastow Date: Fri, 26 Feb 1999 02:03:51 GMT -------- Bob Frazier wrote: > > In some older references I've heard of people making odd caliber brass > on their lathe. I haven't heard of any modern attempts at this. Anybody > tried it? > NO! NO! NO! Turning cartridge cases from barstock might (did) work OK for Black Powder pressures..But for modern nitro powder pressures you are almost certain to get a base blowout. Very few actions support the base of the cartridge case fully. Some of them by little enough to make your hair curl. Modern cartridge brass is VERY carefully formulated, and the heat treatment and work hardening controlled to the "n"th degree, to be able to safely hold the 50,000 plus psi pressures experienced. It is easy to forget, that it wasn't the development of sophisticated breech mechanisms that made modern weapons feasable. Rather it was the development of the modern brass cartridge case. Robert Bastow ======== Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking Subject: Re: What's a CAR reamer? From: Robert Bastow Date: Fri, 26 Feb 1999 20:29:16 GMT -------- To be honest it has been 35 years since I used one, but I believe they were left hand spiral/right hand cutting. That way they didn't tend to "screw in" to the work. Robert Bastow Curt wrote: > > Robert Bastow wrote: > > > Well it looks kinda like a BRIDGE Reamer, and I'm not sure if that means it was > > originally used to build bridges or it just meant it was used to "bridge" over > > two mismatched holes. We used them in boilermaking and machine frame building > > to finish-align holes for 'Fitting Bolts'. (When was the last time you came > > across one of those?) > > Do your bridge reamers have a left-hand twist like his appeared to have? ======== Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking Subject: Re: Gingery awed by Lewis engine From: Robert Bastow Date: Sat, 27 Feb 1999 04:50:07 GMT -------- Once a Knight..always a Knight...But twice a night is Enough!! Mike Graham wrote: > > Let me attempt to beat Robert Bastow to the punch, and be the first > to tell you that a 'nighthood' is a condom. You meant to suggest a > knighthood for Lindsay. 8-) > > --=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-- > > Mike Graham mike@headwaters.com > > Mangler of metal. User of many grinding disks. > Cut with an axe, beat to fit, paint to match. ======== Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking Subject: Re: Spelling From: Robert Bastow Date: Sat, 27 Feb 1999 16:52:08 GMT -------- Again Charlie, it is a question of "two peoples separated by a common Language" What he was saying was that the American pronounced "Lion" as an ENGLISHMAN would pronounce "Lan"...Not necessarily as an AMERICAN would pronounce "Lan" A Texan's pronunciation of "lion" "Line" and "Lying" would all sound similar to a Southern Englishman who would pronounce "Lan" as "LAHN" The Texan's pronunciation of "Lan" is indescribable to an Englishman..but something like "Lihn" with the emphasis on the "I" sound (as the I in light pronounced the English way) Robert Bastow CharlieDIY wrote: > > ud233 writes: > > >That was when I first realised that some > >Americans pronounce lion as " Lan ". > > Where? I've been around and about the U. S. and some parts of Canada and never > heard that pronounciation. > > Texas sounds the most likely, but I didn't hear it there. > > Charlie Self > Word Worker ======== Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking Subject: Re: Methodology? making rifle brass From: Robert Bastow Date: Sat, 27 Feb 1999 22:50:25 GMT -------- Tom Holt wrote: > > The message <36D4B070.1DB24B2C@hotmail.com> > from Robert Bastow contains these words: > > > Bob Frazier wrote: > > > > > > In some older references I've heard of people making odd caliber brass > > > on their lathe. I haven't heard of any modern attempts at this. Anybody > > > tried it? > > > > > > NO! NO! NO! > > Well... Yes and no, actually > > > Turning cartridge cases from barstock might (did) work OK for Black Powder > > pressures... > > Might, did and does. > > >But for modern nitro powder pressures you are almost certain to get a > > base blowout. > > Depends. If you're talking about high-pressure centrefire rifle > calibres, agreed. Many pistol calibres (38 spl, 45 LC, 32 S&WL > etc)don't develope ferocious enough pressures to cause this sort of > problem. 9mm, 357 and 44 mag - well, there's no need to home-brew. > > > Modern cartridge brass is VERY carefully formulated, and the heat treatment and > > work hardening controlled to the "n"th degree, to be able to safely hold the > > 50,000 plus psi pressures experienced > > For modern nitro rifle cases, agreed - but they're available > commercially, so you don't need to moonshine them. For black powder > centrefires of 1870-80 vintage, properly-made turned cases are > perfectly OK; Isn't that what I just said?? Robert Bastow ======== Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking Subject: Re: Just who is the Chuck Jacobs guy? From: Robert Bastow Date: Wed, 03 Mar 1999 16:21:23 -0500 -------- Hi Peter, It, along with two other clone types and four "real" Albrechts are working just fine. All of them are very accurate and durable! The only difference is the PRICE!! RB PLAlbrecht wrote: > > The puns in this thread are so bad that they leave even me speechless... On > top of being keyless. > > Hey, after Enco went T.U., I sold one of those Taiwanese Arblecht chucks on > ebay. Pride would not let me use it in my own shop. RB, you know who you are, > hope it's working but if it isn't, don't look at me, my name's not on it. > > Pete ======== Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking Subject: Economy Tig Welder From: Robert Bastow Date: Wed, 10 Mar 1999 00:58:57 GMT -------- Has anyone got any FIRST hand experience of the Safeco tig welder set http://www.salesco.com/migs/tig/economytig.htm I am looking for a small set suitable for gunsmithing and model making duties..no aluminum, max 1/8" steel 1/16" and smaller electrodes. A watercooled torch is NOT a requirement but I would like a variable foot power switch that will give a "no scratch" start. Informed opinions would be welcomed. Thanks Robert Bastow ======== Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking Subject: Re: Recontouring Morse Tapers From: Robert Bastow Date: Wed, 10 Mar 1999 21:11:57 -0500 -------- Marv Soloff wrote: Heck Marv...I have an electric toothbrush that takes bigger than #0 MT Robert Bastow Marve wrote: >......, the simplest solution > would probably be to go out and buy another lathe that doesn't take > Morse #0 fittings. Like a South Bend or Monarch or such. It's only > money. > > Regards, > > Marv ======== Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking Subject: Re: Mill speeds From: Robert Bastow Date: Wed, 10 Mar 1999 21:16:52 -0500 -------- This is technology gone crazy!!! If you don't have a Machinerys Handbook..just lift the lid on your Taiwanese drill press and the speeds for HSS in a variety of diameters and materials are there. FIVE PAGES....You're NUTS!! Robert Bastow Jon Elson wrote: > > GMasterman wrote: > > > I am looking for a rule of thumb guide for setting spindle speeds on my > > mill/drill for different metals. What I am trying to avoid is the complex way > > of figureing these as is stated in Machinerys Handbook. I am talking about > > end mills of less than 1 in dia. Can any of you enlighten me as to your method > > of figuring out what speed to set up for? Thanks! Gerry > > I wrote a little program that generates a 5 page matrix of RPM, a variety of > circle diameters, and the surface speed you would get for that diameter at > that RPM. The diameters work the same for lathe workpiece size or end > mill diameter, so this table works for both milling and turning. > The diameters go from 1/8" up to 5", and the RPM's go from 25 to 5000, > more than the speed range of my machines. I just decide what surface > speed (in FPM) would be good, find the closest diameter, and scan down > unitl I find the closest surface speed. Then I look across to find the RPM > that will give that speed, compare to the available speeds on the machine, > and finally, decide whether it would be better to choose the next higher > or lower speed to the one from the table. It only takes a few seconds > to do it this way. Maybe I should post this at the drop box, in plain > ASCII text and PostScript, so everyone could print it out. > > Jon ======== Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking Subject: Re: what's wrong with this picture? From: Robert Bastow Date: Wed, 10 Mar 1999 21:30:20 -0500 -------- Yeh Chris..Straight up!! Chris Braid wrote: > ...straight up? > ======== To: Randy O'Brian Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking Subject: Re: Economy Tig Welder From: Robert Bastow Date: Thu, 11 Mar 1999 04:12:35 GMT -------- You hit the nail on the head there Randy, thanks. Robert Bastow Randy O'Brian wrote: > > The ability to start and sustain an arc at very low currents is critical in > gunsmithing since the welds often have to be cosmetic as well as > mechanically adequate. The ability to throttle the arc down to nearly > nothing at the start and at the end elimnates the craters which can save > much metal removal when the finishing phase begins. Also, many times sharp > edges are adjacent to the weld and to much current will not allow > preservation of those edges. Therefore, check to see how low you can go > before buying a machine. For about 5 years, I have been using a Miller > Maxstar 151 with the Snap-Start hf unit and torch mounted thumbwheel current > control. The specs say it will sustain an arc down to one amp with a hot > tungsten. All I know is that I can't read the ammeter with the helmet on, > but it has been completely satisfactory for use in firearms > restoration/modification. > > Randy > > Robert Bastow wrote in message <36E4737D.EF98D020@hotmail.com>... > >Has anyone got any FIRST hand experience of the Safeco tig welder set > >http://www.salesco.com/migs/tig/economytig.htm > > > >I am looking for a small set suitable for gunsmithing and model making > >duties..no aluminum, max 1/8" steel 1/16" and smaller electrodes. > > > >A watercooled torch is NOT a requirement but I would like a variable foot > power > >switch that will give a "no scratch" start. > > > >Informed opinions would be welcomed. > > > >Thanks > > > >Robert Bastow ======== Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking Subject: Re: Recontouring Morse Tapers From: Robert Bastow Date: Thu, 11 Mar 1999 04:23:59 GMT -------- Of course it is practical to cut a #1 MT down to a #0 MT. For this you need a Morse Taper Cutter-Downerer machine. (often called a Lathe) Unless of course the tapers are hardened...in which case you need a Morse Taper Grinder-Downerer!! (often called a toolpost grinder) Going the other way is rather more difficult, for this you need a Morse Taper Putter-Onerer machine (often called a Welder!!) Robert Bastow Marv Soloff wrote: > > Quick question: > > I need several live centers with a Morse #0 taper. MSC has the Skoda > (Czech) live centers on sale at $28.00 each. Problem is, they are > Morse #1 taper. Has anyone recut a Morse #1 to Morse #0? Is this > practical? If so, what's the best was to do this. > > Regards, > > Marv ======== Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking Subject: Re: Need source for metal initial stamp From: Robert Bastow Date: Thu, 11 Mar 1999 09:33:36 -0500 -------- Lee Valley Tools, Woodworkers, Brownells, and Garret Wade all list custom made stamps for wood and metal in any number of letters you want. Robert Bastow ======== To: Michael March Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking Subject: Re: Bridgeport Vertical Mill / Jet bandsaw / Jet bench lathe all for sale From: Robert Bastow Date: Thu, 11 Mar 1999 17:49:51 GMT -------- Michael March wrote: > > Hello fellow metal workers, > > This is my first time on the newsgroup. Welcome Michael. >I hope I'm doing this right. All except for one thing!! > Good condition. make offer. State your best price..You will generate more interest and feedback. Robert Batow ======== To: Michael March Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking Subject: Re: Bridgeport Vertical Mill / Jet bandsaw / Jet bench lathe all for sale From: Robert Bastow Date: Thu, 11 Mar 1999 17:50:13 GMT -------- Michael March wrote: > > Hello fellow metal workers, > > This is my first time on the newsgroup. Welcome Michael. >I hope I'm doing this right. All except for one thing!! > Good condition. make offer. State your best price..You will generate more interest and feedback. Robert Bastow ======== Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking Subject: Re: what's wrong with this picture? From: Robert Bastow Date: Thu, 11 Mar 1999 17:55:25 GMT -------- Used upside down with lath running reverse direction. Avoids dig in and chatter, plus chips fall free. This is standard setup on a lot of CNC Turning Centers. I have a set of Valenite Micro bars in "bass-ackwards" persuasion..use them all the time and don't feel need to swap. Robert Bastow Louis Boyd wrote: > > Grant Erwin wrote: > > > > There's this boring bar on ebay .. > > http://cgi.ebay.com/aw-cgi/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=74189322 > > > > Uh, it looks to me like it is BACKWARDS - you'd have to run the > > lathe in reverse! Is this a funny photo or do they actually > > make bass-ackwards boring bars or is my coffee singularly > > ineffective this morning? > > Now you know why it's never been used and it's for sale on ebay! > > Does someone make a left handed lathe (headstock on the right)? > > Lou Boyd ======== Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking Subject: Re: ebay inflation From: Robert Bastow Date: Thu, 11 Mar 1999 16:43:32 -0500 -------- All the time you are searching for, and moaning about examples of over inflated prices on Ebay there are scores of people getting Great Deals! I just got a B&S 6-7" Micrometer and a Lufkin 7-8"...both in perfect condition..for under $25.00 each. A full set of Brand Name, USA made, brand new, gunstock checkering tools for $14.85 How about a full set of HSS broaches 1/16" to 3/8" plus all the bushings and shims...for $70.00? A Starret 18" Vernier Height Gage for $78.00? Full set of "as new" Hardinge 5C square collets for $87.00. 6" Pratt-Burnerd "Grip-tru" Chuck..Unused for $282.00 81 pc set of recently calibrated B&S Hoke gages for $88.01 A pre-64 Winchester model 70 barrelled action for $206.00 New in box Hornady loading die set for $6.85 Brand new Royal 5C master cup collet for $10.00 I could list almost fifty items I have bought on Ebay (Books and Tools) Not once have I been disappointed! Not once have I overpaid! Not once have I been cheated! If there is a "Feeding Frenzy" going on it is the BUYERS!! Quit yer Bitchin' Robert Bastow ======== Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking Subject: Re: ebay inflation From: Robert Bastow Date: Fri, 12 Mar 1999 02:59:05 -0500 -------- We have ALL bought five dollar dial indicators at garage sales...and will continue to do so. Comparing that to a brand new, Precision Brand, 2 1/2" dial, 0.0001" Indicator for $62.00 is pedantics at its most dishonest. When you shoot the only shot in your locker, Dear &NM7U...Better make sure it has the legs to reach the target!! Robert Bastow &NM7U wrote: > > Kevin Pinkerton wrote: > > > > On Thu, 11 Mar 1999 16:43:32 -0500, Robert Bastow > > wrote: > > > > >All the time you are searching for, and moaning about examples of over inflated > > >prices on Ebay there are scores of people getting Great Deals! > > > > I just got a new Precision Brand (made in england) .0001" indicator, > > 2-1/2" face for $62. I am very pleased and will continue to shop for > > bargains there. > > > > Kevin > > > > My Gun Page: http://extra.newsguy.com/~kpinkert/ > > Well, that makes the point that EBAY forces prices WAY out of > range, doesn't it. I've bought .0001 dial > indicators at garage sales for $5. > You can NEVER get a good deal when you're competing with the > entire world. There's always someone with more money than > knowledge. ======== Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking Subject: Re: HTML From: Robert Bastow Date: Fri, 12 Mar 1999 21:22:05 -0500 -------- I'm not a computer "nut"..to me a hot boot is pullin the plug!! But I use windows 95 every day..have done for a couple of years, and I have never yet had a crash or a problem!! Do you guys pay a cheaper price..or shout at it a lot??? Windows and Netscape work fine for me, What am I doing wrong?? Robert Bastow > You make a valid point, however the amount of time that I lose to bugs and > crashes under windows is far more offensive to me than the time I 'lose' > studying to use Linux. ======== Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking Subject: Re: HTML From: Robert Bastow Date: Fri, 12 Mar 1999 21:26:56 -0500 -------- Er! What the F*** has all this to do with Net.Crafts.Metalworking?? Ted Edwards wrote: > > Carl Byrns wrote: > > > > > Educate me here: why do NGs continue to use ASCII over HTML? Tradition? > > By now you should have been educated - if you ever will. > > > And I gather that you have never considered modifying the tool to do the > > job better. > > Frequently - almost daily. But it has be an improvement not merely a > change. > > > Lighten up, Francis. > > Who's Francis? > > Ted ======== Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking Subject: Re: "Blueing " From: Robert Bastow Date: Fri, 12 Mar 1999 21:44:33 -0500 -------- Absolute Poppycock!! A blued finish will out-wear a color case hardened finis any day of the week!! David A. Holly wrote: > > Dez, > > Bluing is not "hard wearing." It barely gives the steel any protection at > all. It can still rust and get scratched. I think bluing was mainly > invented to take the glare off firearms for hunting or military use. > > Now, if you want a finish that does wear hard, check into color case > hardening. Regardless, the place to check is Brownells Gunsmithing > supplies. Check most any major firearms magazine and you will find and add > for them. I'm not sure if they have a web site yet or not. But, they have > bluing and case hardening supplies as well as thousands of other items for > gunsmithing. They also have many books on these subjects. > > They sell "cold blue" which can be rubbed onto steel cold to produce the > coloring. Traditional bluing requires a hot bath of bluing salts. The > metal surface must be free of any oil or lubricant. The better the polish, > the better the blue finish. From what I've read, the metal must get hot > enough in the bath that when you remove it, any liquid evaporates > immediately. Brownells sells stainless steel tanks with burners underneath > for bluing rifle barrels. For the occasional pistol, I think you might get > by with a large stainless steel pot on your stove. > > Another place to check for more information is Shooters' Online Services. > That URL is http://www.shooters.com/ > > Hope this helps. > > =David= > > Dez Wood wrote in message <990312114419.n0006257.dezwood@mail.clara.net>... > >The process of putting a hard wearing coating on steel as in > >hand guns (but not in this case) > > > >Anyone tell me how it is done please > > > >Thanks > > > >----- > >Dez Wood G3HKO > >G-QRP 124 ======== Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking Subject: Re: "Blueing " From: Robert Bastow Date: Sat, 13 Mar 1999 09:32:46 -0500 -------- You are missing the entire point David (and thanks for the patronising discourse on the process of case hardening..as a tool and die maker, that was all NEW to me!!!!) The question was on SURFACE FINISH if you took the trouble to read it. While no one disputes that case hardening produces a longwearing surface the COLORS on the other hand are very transitory (short lasting) It is usual to laquer them in order to preserve them a litle longer. As a surface treatment (coloration) I REPEAT...Bluing will out last case hardening any day of the week!! So There!! Robert Bastow David A. Holly wrote: > > Gentlemen, > > I think we should reveal some facts about these 2 processes. The original > post that I responded to mentioned "putting a hard wearing coating on > steel." Bluing, while it is a "coating" is not "hard wearing." Case > hardening is. In fact, case hardening is a heat treatment of steel. Bluing > is not. > > Case hardening is not used all that much today mainly because there are > better steels available that are "harder wearing" to start with. Plus, case > hardening is a time consuming process and it can be dangerous. Colt's > famous case colors is produced with, I think, cyanide, or some other > poisonous chemical. So, only professionals with the right equipment can > duplicate those beautiful colors. Other case hardening processes are > easier, but don't always produce colors. > > When tougher steels are used to start with, the bluing inherits these > qualities. Hence, today's blued finish can last a long time. However, what > I was responding to was the request for a "hard wearing" coating for steel. > This, bluing is not. Bluing does not add strength to the steel surface. > > In Brownells catalog, under "Heat-Treating Accessories" you will find a > product called Kasenit. The description reads . . . > > [ For case hardening plain or low carbon alloy steels. Carburizes surfaces > quickly to uniform depth. Gives "Surface Hardening" while retaining the > toughness of the core. Protects delicate, highly finished work, eliminating > cleanup or remachining. (After quenching, surface is clean and extremely > hard.) Reliable and inexpensive. Non-poisonous, non-explosive, > non-flammable. excellent for drills, firing pins, hammer davits, trigger > pins, sears, punches, all low carbon, high wear surfaces. Sprinkle parts > with powder or "dunk" for deeper case. ] > > Now, be honest, when have you ever seen bluing recommended for drill bits or > "high wear surfaces?" I challenge you to take 2 drill bits, blue one, and > case harden the other. Then see how long they last. Most of the bluing > would come off after the first hole was drilled. > > In fact, in Brownells' book, "Gunsmithing Kinks," there is information on > how to "break through" the surface of case hardened receivers for scope > mounting. They recommend using a small pointed grinder first. Another > method used acid. Otherwise, the drill bit will dull or even break trying > to drill through. Regular blued surfaces need no special handling for > drilling. (Even in modern steels.) > > Notice in the product description above, it says "After quenching, surface > is clean and extremely hard." Bluing does not "harden" metal surfaces. > Case hardening, or color case hardening, does. Case hardening is actually > recommended for tools to improve their wear. It is recommended for bearing > surfaces. Take a look at some blue (not stainless) Smith & Wesson service > revolvers and you will most likely see a case hardened hammer and trigger. > > If anyone has "facts" to the contrary, please post them. > > =David= > > Tom Holt wrote in message <1999031403221276639@zetnet.co.uk>... > >The message <36E9D111.D55A4FC1@hotmail.com> > > from Robert Bastow contains these words: > > > > > >> Absolute Poppycock!! > > > >> A blued finish will out-wear a color case hardened finis any day of the > week!! > > > > > >This is true; and explains why antiques gun with traces of their > >original hardening colours are so highly prized. > > > >For a really durable finish, try browning, preferably done the > >old-fashioned way rather than by slopping on some chemical gunk. Can > >look pretty darn cute, too. > > > > > > > > ======== Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking Subject: Re: Help with Walking Stick From: Robert Bastow Date: Sat, 13 Mar 1999 09:35:46 -0500 -------- Eddy Wells wrote: > > I need some ideas on what kind of handle to make for it... > BALLS..(Bulls of course) ======== Newsgroups: talk.politics.guns,rec.crafts.metalworking,alt.music.bootlegs,rec.toys.action-figures.discuss Subject: Re: Do you use eBay? From: Robert Bastow Date: Sun, 14 Mar 1999 22:19:09 -0500 -------- And, Pray what, is wrong with that? If I couldn't simply go to the supermarket and pick up the meat I eat (with all the nasty, smelly, work already done) then I would quite happily go out and shoot it myself!! As for human beings...threaten me, or mine, with deadly force and I would have less compunction in shooting you than I would treading on an ant!! If I didn't have a gun capable of doing the above, I would use a bow and arrow or a rock!! Hope you're a Vegan with three stomachs!! Robert Bastow Matt wrote: > > All right, good point Garry. That said, the primary use of guns is still to > kill things. > > Matt ======== Newsgroups: talk.politics.guns,rec.crafts.metalworking Subject: Re: Do you use eBay? From: Robert Bastow Date: Sun, 14 Mar 1999 22:27:41 -0500 -------- I think that sums it up best!! Thanks Jack, These people are so enamored with the sanctity of life we should stop distracting them and let them get back to dynamiting abortion clinics. Robert Bastow Jack Erbes wrote: > > Gee Matt and Bubba, > But I am really glad you guys don't like guns. Guns should not be in > the hands of people with your temperament. > > -- > Jack in Sonoma, CA, USA (jack@vom.com) ======== Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking Subject: Re: How to turn a simple taper? Tailstock adjustment? From: Robert Bastow Date: Sun, 14 Mar 1999 22:35:16 -0500 -------- It would if you wanted to turn an eccentric..but not a taper!! Think about it! Robert Bastow Bob Frazier wrote: > > Would offsetting the center (headstock end) with a four jaw chuck be a more > adjustable method? Bob > > George Glines wrote in message <7chi4f$k8f$1@mtinsc01.worldnet.att.net>... > >Chris, > > > >There are three main ways to cut tapers on a lathe: > > > >1. Taper attatchment > >2. Compound Rest/Slide method > >3. Tailstock Offset > > > snip ======== Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking Subject: Re: SWMBO? From: Robert Bastow Date: Sun, 14 Mar 1999 22:51:11 -0500 -------- This guy has GOT to be a Batchelor!!!! Mike Graham wrote: > Well, it's 'fess up' time. I don't know what SWMBO stands for. She Who Must Be Obeyed...Updated recently on the Modeleng-List to: SWIMBO..She Who Must INDUBITABLY Be Obeyed. Robert Bastow ======== Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking Subject: Re: Timepiece for machinists. From: Robert Bastow Date: Mon, 15 Mar 1999 01:40:14 -0500 -------- I agree! Cool is the word. Er! Did you check the price?? For $155.00 each I'll bet there is a rush from this NG to Ebay to buy up every Starrett indicator available..plus a bunch of those $5.00 battery clock drives!! Now where did I put that box of Jun...Er.."Repairable" dial indicators? Robert Bastow Don Foreman wrote: > > Cool! > > SSmith1636 wrote in article > <19990315211453.21653.00001040@ng-ce1.aol.com>... > > One of the guys from this forum has developed a timepiece that is > really > > sharp. It can be viewed at http://members.aol.com/ptengin/mtp.html. > Check it > > out for a very creative idea. > > Scott > > "Nothing is impossible for the guy not doing the work." > > ======== Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking Subject: Re: Collet Type Question From: Robert Bastow Date: Mon, 15 Mar 1999 17:01:19 GMT -------- I'll second that guess. If they are W20 size they will also have a 4mm wide keyway in the threaded end. Now all you need is a Schaublin lathe to put them in. You should be able to pick one up cheap from Dave!!! ;^) Robert Bastow Dave Ficken wrote: > >>Overall Length: 4.770" > >>Diameter of Face: 1.105" > >>Back Bearing Diameter: .787" > >>Thread (Outside only): about 12.5/inch. The thread is a "Buttress". > > The Buttress thread is a clue they might be swiss. The backbearing > diameter is almost exactly 20 millimeter. My guess is W20 collets as > used on Scaublin and other swiss machines. > > Regards, > dave ======== Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking Subject: Re: Off topic: Gun question From: Robert Bastow Date: Mon, 15 Mar 1999 17:13:22 GMT -------- Hi Mike, I can't help you on the specifics of the mounting, 'tho I'm sure one of our readers can. The requirement for "short " range is the stinger. Most "Generics" are parallel adjusted for 75 yards or more. Unfortunately it takes a special scope to focus down close enough to be able to plink at 5 to 15 yards. These are usually sold as Rimfire Scopes. Air Rifle scopes have the same facility but they start to get really spendy because of the need to be able to stand up to the peculiar recoil characteristics of a powerful air rifle. First thing then, is to check that the scope you have will focus at the ranges you anticipate using. Robert Bastow Mike Graham wrote: > It does a pretty good job, but the factory sights are deplorable > so it needs a scope badly. Since this will primarily be close-up > shooting, where 50 yards is a *long* shot, I figured a nice little > generic scope should do the job. > ======== Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking Subject: Re: Tired of getting "SPAM"!? From: Robert Bastow Date: Mon, 15 Mar 1999 17:22:57 GMT -------- I LOVE SPAM!! Fried! with beans, eggs and Chips (French fries)!! ======== Newsgroups: talk.politics.guns,rec.crafts.metalworking,alt.music.bootlegs,rec.toys.action-figures.discuss Subject: Re: Do you use eBay? From: Robert Bastow Date: Mon, 15 Mar 1999 12:35:05 -0500 -------- I certainly did, and the more I understand it and how it came to be the way it is..The more I am determined to fight for it..ANY way I have to!! Robert Bastow John E. wrote: > Many people would give everything they have and do give everything >they have to come to this country to enjoy a way of life not found >anywhere else in the world. > John E. ======== Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking Subject: Re: Recycling staples From: Robert Bastow Date: Mon, 15 Mar 1999 12:45:28 -0500 -------- I can't get mine to stick together reliably...I have tried all the usual "sticky" stuffs. Have you tried running a fine bead of weld down the center? Would my Miller 5000 with 1/4" wire feed be suitable. Do I need a foot control? Did I tell you about the stepper drive and ballscrews I fitted to my TP re-roller? Do you think MaxCad would be the answer to several alignment problems I've been having. I want to send a sample to Matt!! Dis-ingeniously yours, Robert Bastow PLAlbrecht wrote: After that, I'm recycling used > staples. Straighten them out, glue them back together, put them back in > stapler. ======== Newsgroups: talk.politics.guns,rec.crafts.metalworking,alt.music.bootlegs,rec.toys.action-figures.discuss Subject: Re: Do you use eBay? From: Robert Bastow Date: Mon, 15 Mar 1999 17:54:01 -0500 -------- Oh good, perhaps a nap will help Matt. Maybe time for one of your tablets too!! Robert Bastow Matt wrote: > At any rate, this entire thread grows tiresome. ======== Newsgroups: talk.politics.guns,rec.crafts.metalworking,alt.music.bootlegs,rec.toys.action-figures.discuss Subject: Re: Do you use eBay? From: Robert Bastow Date: Mon, 15 Mar 1999 22:15:14 -0500 -------- What do you expect people to do with a position counter to their own..Roll over and play dead? I would have thought that was more in your line of philosophy. If you can't take the heat, stay out of this kitchen! Robert Bastow Matt wrote: . I don't recall trying to exert > influance, so much as trying to keep my head above water as the gun folks took metaphorical shot after shot against a position counter to their own. ======== Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking Subject: Re: Recycling staples From: Robert Bastow Date: Mon, 15 Mar 1999 22:49:35 -0500 -------- PLAlbrecht wrote: > >>Did I tell you about the stepper drive and ballscrews I fitted to my > >>TP re-roller? > Well, I see I misjudged you. You're a fellow professional. Do you run >it through the laundry cycle before or after re-rolling? LAUNDRY!!! But there's still one GOOD side!! > >>I want to send a sample to Matt!! > Send him used TP. Actually I was thinking of TWICE used Robert Bastow ======== Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking Subject: Re: Metal stamp manuf. found - Thanks! From: Robert Bastow Date: Tue, 16 Mar 1999 01:16:06 -0500 -------- Share the wealth Steve, share the wealth!! Robert Bastow Steve Russell wrote: > > A quick note to say thanks to all who responded to my request for a > supplier of metal stamps. I found a company to make the stamp I need and > for far less than I had figured. > > Thanks again, > > Letting the chips fly... > Steve Russell > Eurowood Werks > The Woodlands, Texas Steve Russell wrote: > > A quick note to say thanks to all who responded to my request for a > supplier of metal stamps. I found a company to make the stamp I need and > for far less than I had figured. > > Thanks again, > > Letting the chips fly... > Steve Russell > Eurowood Werks > The Woodlands, Texas ======== Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking Subject: Re: guns RE:do you use e-bay? From: Robert Bastow Date: Tue, 16 Mar 1999 15:02:24 GMT -------- This may not be as far-fetched as it may appear at first glance!! Not too long ago, in countries behind the "Iron Curtain" there was a a requirement for ALL typwriters, duplicating machines, photocopiers, printers and computers to be registered and be subject to strict controls. Free speech and the ability and willingness to protect it, are the things that ALL Governments fear the most. Robert Bastow Gunner wrote: > Remember fellas, if they take the guns, and you have the means to make > one, in your home shop, how long do you think that you will be allowed > to keep your lathes and your mills? > Do you think that it would be long before you need a liscense to have > an Atlas or Bridgport? > BATFMT? ======== To: Matt Newsgroups: talk.politics.guns,rec.crafts.metalworking,alt.music.bootlegs,rec.toys.action-figures.discuss Subject: Re: Do you use eBay? From: Robert Bastow Date: Tue, 16 Mar 1999 15:05:21 GMT -------- Piss off Matt..You have outstayed your welcome on this group. Go pester someone who cares about your anally retentive views! Matt wrote: ======== Newsgroups: talk.politics.guns,rec.crafts.metalworking,alt.music.bootlegs,rec.toys.action-figures.discuss Subject: Re: Do you use eBay? From: Robert Bastow Date: Tue, 16 Mar 1999 15:10:35 GMT -------- Absolutely TRUE Matt. And after removing ALL civilian held guns..They used the remaining GOVERNMENT held guns to ensure the EXTERMINATION of the Jews. It was only a bunch of GUNS in the hands of more rational people that stopped them!! Robert Bastow By the way..it is propAganda...Thought you would have known that!! Matt wrote: > Remember that about 60 years ago, the German government did a helluva job > using numbers to prove Jews were the cause of all Germany's woes. > > Your propeganda is noted, and dismissed. > > Matt ======== Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking Subject: Re: 0-12in Starrett Mic Set From: Robert Bastow Date: Tue, 16 Mar 1999 15:29:34 GMT -------- You will be able to buy a full set (Individually) for far less than that on Ebay. Prices seem to average around $50.00 for 1' to 3" Starretts, $40.00 for 4" to 6" and about $30.00 apop from there on up. Make your own case!! Robert Bastow jeffpa@microsoft.com wrote: > > I have a chance to get a set, about 30 years old, for about 800$. > > Obviously new, these are like 2200$ at J&L. > > Forgetting the Chinese versus American debate, and all of that, anyone > have any good thoughts as to the value of them? > > Assuming are in good shape obviously. I dont think these come with > standards though. But do come in original wood case. > > -----------== Posted via Deja News, The Discussion Network ==---------- > http://www.dejanews.com/ Search, Read, Discuss, or Start Your Own ======== To: john@coefac.engr.wisc.edu Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking Subject: Re: Nearly got me! From: Robert Bastow Date: Tue, 16 Mar 1999 15:40:22 GMT -------- OK!!! THAT one FINALLY did it!!! I have coffee and snot all over my keyboard!! Thanks for the ROTFLMAF. Robert Bastow John Robinson wrote: Sure enough, couple of > nights later, "WHAM" .....very short pause, then a car door slams, and > tire screeching for most of the block.......still had the battery > too.....behavoral modification is what I called it, ======== Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking Subject: Re: Dividing From: Robert Bastow Date: Wed, 17 Mar 1999 04:11:07 GMT -------- Bottom line is..You can't get there from here!! By which I mean; you can't get 5 divisions from 12 by simple indexing (Which is what you have) However!! Welcome to the world of the HSM where every job is preceeded by making the tools to make the tools to make the tools...You get my drift!! What you need is a plate with 5 as a factor..5 , 10, 15,....60, 120..the more the merrier. Step one: Check out the bull wheel on your lathe, that is often a multiple of 5. If it is then simply arange some means of detenting the wheel, hold your brass in the chuck and spot/center drill through a guide hole in a piece of bar held in the tool post. Then go drill to size and depth on the mill or drill press. Failing that....Locate a master..a changewheel from your lathe..scrounged from "Jones the Scrap"...what ever. Set that up on a mandrel on the tail end of your lathe spindle and do as above. Stage three..the "Posh" way is to use your master to make a new division plate for your indexing head. 60 divisions would be good because that would give you all multiples of 2,3,4,5 and 6. You May even be able to simply cut new notches in your existing plate..depending on the size of the original notches of course. Robert Bastow Tom Holt wrote: > > Help, please. > > I need to drill five evenly-spaced blind holes > I don't have a proper dividing head; what I've got is a 6" 3 jaw > chuck rotating around a spindle mounted on a baseplate that bolts to > the mill table, with 12 notches milled at regular intervals around > the edge of the chuck, and a sprung-loaded plunger arrangement to > lock it in place. This makes a perfectly good (for my purposes) > dividing head for when I want 3, 4, 6 or 12 divisions, but my poor > insect brain can't figure out how to calculate 5 with this rig. ======== Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking Subject: Re: Dividing From: Robert Bastow Date: Wed, 17 Mar 1999 04:16:32 GMT -------- Damn!! I could have saved myself a lot of typing if I had remembered this obvious answer!! Use the tables in "Machinery's" its easier!! Then make yourself a new division plate..Its faster!! Robert Bastow Jon Elson wrote: > Now, using your leadscrew dials, DRO or whatever you have > setup for measuring table position, go to these X and Y > coordinates, and drill your holes. > > Machinery's handbook has tables for this under 'jig boring'. > Mr. Machinist (a shareware program) does this, under > bolt circles or thereabouts. > > Jon ======== Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking Subject: Re: MSC adjustable reamers. No problems ? From: Robert Bastow Date: Wed, 17 Mar 1999 04:29:45 GMT -------- I HATE adjustable hand reamers!! Possibly because the only ones I have ever tried (and failed) to use were cheap ones. The problem to look out for is not so much the quality of the blade..but the quality of the body. It needs to be heat treated alloy steel. The cheap ones seem to have bodies made of FC mild steel and the tendency is for the blades to grab in the hole and twist the whole reamer up like a wet noodle...CRUNCH!! Robert Bastow David G. wrote: > > I would simply like to learn if the import adjustable (hand) reamers > from MSC are OK. They are almost suspiciously cheap compared to others I > have noticed. Any user reports ? > > TIA > David ======== Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking Subject: Re: FS: Vertical Knee Mill From: Robert Bastow Date: Wed, 17 Mar 1999 04:33:36 GMT -------- Pound for pound, dollar for dollar, condition for condition, the Exello is a far better machine than the Bridgeport! I have had several of each. Robert Bastow MP Toolman wrote: > > A little while ago, I bought a Bridgeport Series 1 from a local small machine > shop. They also have an Excello which is looking for a home. ======== Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking Subject: Re: guns RE:do you use e-bay? From: Robert Bastow Date: Wed, 17 Mar 1999 04:40:10 GMT -------- I didn't meean to imply that you didn't Gunner..I just wanted to add emphasis to a very valid point. In Northern Ireland the "Authorities" keep a very watchful eye on machine shops, knowing full well that they are a ready source of weapons from sten guns to 5" mortars. I believe it is difficult to import seamless drawn tubing into N I for that very reason!! Robert Bastow Gunner wrote: > > I posted it in all seriousness. I know how the "politicaly correct" > mind works > > On Tue, 16 Mar 1999 15:02:24 GMT, Robert Bastow > wrote: > > >This may not be as far-fetched as it may appear at first glance!! > > > >Not too long ago, in countries behind the "Iron Curtain" there was a a > >requirement for ALL typwriters, duplicating machines, photocopiers, printers and > >computers to be registered and be subject to strict controls. > > > >Free speech and the ability and willingness to protect it, are the things that > >ALL Governments fear the most. > > > >Robert Bastow > > > >Gunner wrote: > > > >> Remember fellas, if they take the guns, and you have the means to make > >> one, in your home shop, how long do you think that you will be allowed > >> to keep your lathes and your mills? > >> Do you think that it would be long before you need a liscense to have > >> an Atlas or Bridgport? > >> BATFMT? ======== Newsgroups: talk.politics.guns,rec.crafts.metalworking,alt.music.bootlegs,rec.toys.action-figures.discuss Subject: Re:Two Peoples Separated.. From: Robert Bastow Date: Wed, 17 Mar 1999 05:24:30 GMT -------- Anton Sherwood wrote: > > I wonder - are there people who really believe there are *no* big > cultural difference between Europe and the USA? They should try > spending time in Europe! There are probably no other two countries that have a closer bond of cultural and idealistic backgrounds than the United States and the United Kingdom. It is a "Special Relationship" that has stood the test of peace and war, good times and bad times...and long may it continue. However, I spent the first thirty something years of my life as a Brit (albeit travelling and working in (too damned) many different countries). I have spent the last twenty-two years over 'ere. I have been married to two English girls a Welsh lass and (FINALLY) to a Southern Belle from "Old Alabamie" Two of my sons are English, One is Canadian and One is American. I think I can lay claim to understanding BOTH cultures as well as anyone can. Let me assure you that the differences between, even our two cultures, are HUGE...Far bigger than anyone might imagine..especially an outsider looking at the "Special Relationship" The differences have to do with work ethic..even the whole POINT of work. They have to do with the whole concept of self reliance and self sufficiency. It is a difference of the expectations and the right of the individual to better himself. Above all they have to do with the whole concept of the rights and freedoms of the individual and the role that government is allowed to play. In my honest and considered opinion Britain has the right to claim to be the originator of modern civilisation and democracy...Magna Carta and all that. But quite frankly, whatever lead they had in that field was lost around 230 years ago (1776 and all that) when the banner was dropped by a society that had developed and perfected a system that let you know your place and kept you in it!! It was picked up and carried forward by a new nation of ragamufins who are STILL stumbling forward like a toddler taking its first steps. The point is that this ungainly toddler still manages to head in the right direction because ENOUGH PEOPLE STILL BELIEVE IN THOSE BASIC HUMAN RIGHTS AND ARE PREPARED TO DIE TO DEFEND THEM. And because government is reminded (not often or forcibly enough) but nevertheless it IS constantly reminded that this is Government OF the People BY the people and FOR the people. In other words..the government is there for the peoples benefit NOT the other way around. And, as students of history we know that the INEVITABLE tendency is for government to get bigger and for the people to slowly become RULED rather than GOVERNED. This is what has happened in the UK, it is why after years of firearms registration without protest, it was a simple matter for the government to round up all the "legal" firearms and leave the honest citizen without the means to defend himself, not just against the DIShonest citizens who daily become bolder...But against the TYRANNICAL Government that ALWAYS follows when absolute power corrupts absolutely. The point of all this..is that I am talking about two nations, that most Citizens of the two think are "Very Similar" Now extend that to OTHER nations..who we KNOW are "Different" and you might begin to imagine just HOW different they really are!! Above all we must NEVER take the lead for our destiny from those who have so miserably failed in theirs! Rant Mode OFF!! Robert Bastow ======== Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking Subject: Re: Polyurethane adhesives? From: Robert Bastow Date: Wed, 17 Mar 1999 05:33:57 GMT -------- And it is the Divils Own to get off your hands..has to WEAR off!! PKDickman wrote: > > In article <9q0H2.7127$l_3.8613@news.rdc1.bc.wave.home.com>, "Marty Reynard" > writes: > > >Have any group members had occasion to use any of the polyurethane adhesives > >(e.g. Franklin's Titebond) for metal to metal applications? I have some > >specialized jewelry projects and am curious how these adhesives perform over > >time compared to industrial epoxies. Marty R. > > > > I bought a tube of gorilla glue for a project. > It works by reacting with moisture in the wood or in the air and has a limited > shelf life. > The stuff foams up so you have to use very little. > As a result I've been gluing every thing together with it so I can use up the > tube before it goes bad. > The stuff will stick two pieces of metal together probably as good as epoxy and > probably better than superglue. > It's handling characteristics, however, are probably not well suited to > jewelery applications. > 1. The foaming action generates quite a bit of pressure (it's like great > stuff foam) as a result you can't reliably glue without clamping and you need > to keep the pressure on for at least 4 hours. > 2. It doesn't take too much glue to become too much. You have to keep an > eye on it for at least on hour to be sure the foam hasn't oozed all over your > project. > 3. The dried glue is an opaque beige foam like great stuff. > > Hope this helps > Paul K. Dickman ======== Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking Subject: Re: Premonitions From: Robert Bastow Date: Wed, 17 Mar 1999 05:37:19 GMT -------- QUICK!! Put it on Ebay..I heard Chris is looking for a new one ;^) Robert Bastow Gunner wrote: > I offered $10, got it for 15. Thing is almost completly mint. > I do ok? ======== Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking Subject: Re: Two Peoples Separated.. From: Robert Bastow Date: Wed, 17 Mar 1999 05:49:02 GMT -------- Citizenship is a "Work In Process"...Interminably!! I have just had my fingerprints taken for the FOURTH time in three years...Because "they were out of date"!!!!!! Hey I love this country..but perfect it ain't. However I do appreciate y'awls hospitality. Robert Bastow Johnny Skinner wrote: > > Robert, > > I don't know if you have taken American citizenship, but I'm > convinced you are as American as any of us. Well stated, > old chap! > > Cheers, > > Johnny Skinner ======== Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking Subject: Re: Recycling staples From: Robert Bastow Date: Wed, 17 Mar 1999 05:52:08 GMT -------- You ARE talking about using said knapkin at the TABLE, aren't you?? ;^) Robert Bastow Felice Luftschein & Nicholas Carter wrote: > >LAUNDRY!!! But there's still one GOOD side!! > The really sad thing about this thread is that my inlaws use a napkin > (paper) on one side, sharing it between them, then fold it over and > use the other side the next night. > They do this even though they get the napkins free from whichever > restaurant they eat at once in a blue moon. ======== Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking Subject: Re: model eng.books From: Robert Bastow Date: Thu, 18 Mar 1999 00:31:13 GMT -------- Hey Dipshit! we have gone over this. Does your intellect have something to add?? The guy is just trying to be helpful..What is your contribution? Robert Bastow dip@shit.com wrote: > > On Wed, 17 Mar 1999 13:57:08 -0500, fay wrote: > > >I have 60 issues of Model engineering from England. 1951 thru 1952. all > >can be had for $40, interested write.:}sample cover in attachment. > > Thank you SO much for posting a 445Kb picture in a discussion group. > Since you mention this magazine is from England, perhaps the readers > of this group who are IN England will have some choice words for you. > > BINARY ATTACHMENTS DO NOT BELONG IN A DISCUSSION NEWSGROUP. > > The fact that you were unable to figure out how to reduce the file > size (as I just tried, and reduced it to under 70Kb) only further > endears you to us. > > I suppose I should be grateful you didn't post it as a 24 bit TIFF > file. ======== Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking Subject: Re: Apology and a question From: Robert Bastow Date: Thu, 18 Mar 1999 04:06:24 -0500 -------- Of course it does..I HAVE already done it! It is also the way they used to put the necks on gas cylinders. Ever wondered about that? Nowadays it is done by CNC controlled spinning machines. Robert Bastow Jayverni wrote: > > On >3/18/99 6:26 PM EST, Robert Bastow wrote: > > >It Will work if you make yourself a split die..like a blacksmith's top and > >bottom fuller only with the shape that you want to finish with. > > Awesome, Thank you very much! I will try it and let you know how it works! > [even though it sounds like you already know how it will work ;-). ] > > James Gribbon Jayverni@aol.com ======== Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking Subject: Re: Ever made a box trailer? From: Robert Bastow Date: Thu, 18 Mar 1999 04:13:06 -0500 -------- A VAST improvement on the original bodywork!! ;^) Robert Bastow KD6JDJ wrote: > > On making a box trailer ------- > > I made my last small box trailer for my V W pickup using the rear >axle from a V W Rabbit. ======== Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking Subject: Re: Bridgeport vs. Copies From: Robert Bastow Date: Thu, 18 Mar 1999 04:35:34 -0500 -------- The Exello is a heavier build, more rigid and more durable machine. The Exello has a stiffer spindle..most I saw used a 40 taper rather than R8. It also has square ways on the cross slide...just like REAL mills. All I hear about Bridgeports is people asking how to fix this, that, or the other!! One feller says they are wonderful "once you strip off the chrome and flake the ways and.." Faint praise indeed. Side by side in the same shop the Exellos were ALWAYS preferred by the operators, even with the extra usage, they way out-lasted them. When it comes to hogging a die or mold block out of a fifty or hundred pound chunk of tool steel there is NO comparison! Given heavy daily usage in a tool and die shop a Bridgeport starts to loose its "edge" in three years and is junk in 5 or 6. Need I go on? Please don't get me wrong! I am not saying that a Bridgeport is a "Bad" mill...any more than the Southbend is a "Bad" Lathe. Just be aware that in the greater scheme of things..There ARE better Machines! Robert Bastow Ryan Reid wrote: > > Someone recently stated that pound for pound an Excello mill is better > than a bridgeport (assuming both are in the same state mechanically). > > We all know that bridgeport was one of the first milling machine > manufacturers in the United States, if not the first. From my limited > exposure I have seen that most other milling machines are just copies > of the bridgeport machines without the nice rounded corners. > > What makes other mills of similar capacity and size better than a > bridgeport J or 2J? > > (I own a 2J) > > Ryan > ryanreid@sprintmail.com ======== Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking Subject: Re: Tig Welder Question From: Robert Bastow Date: Thu, 18 Mar 1999 04:40:17 -0500 -------- I hope you get a better response that I do! I keep asking that question too! Perhaps BOTH our voices may get heard this time!! ;^) Robert Bastow acw@ecn.ab.ca wrote: > > Does amybody have any suggestions as to what is a good machine to consider > if you are concerened about: > 1) Quality workmanship on fine work mostly. > 2) Price (can you actually get a good machine for low cost) > Note: I am doing models in all sorts of materials. > Thanks > Avrum Wright > > -- > email: acw@freenet.edmonton.ab.ca ======== Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking Subject: Re: Tig Welder Question From: Robert Bastow Date: Thu, 18 Mar 1999 08:51:23 -0500 -------- Ernie Leimkuhler wrote: Thanks Ernie, I was begining to wonder if it was Body Odor or something ;^) Ernie wrote; > I guess it just takes a keen eye for someone to see your question amid the > some 250 posts per night. > I am sorry if you feel your question was being ignored. > > And now on the the answer. > > Or should I say, more questions. > > What scale of work are you doing? Small to tiny; Gunsmithing and Model Engineering...Max 1/8" thickness, no plate or section welding. Bolt handles, shortening receivers will be the heaviest. Welding up pits, building up sears, sights, will be small end. > What vollume of work are you doing? Small volume..Infrequent use. Duty rating isn't a consideration. > What is your price range? I'd like to keep it under a grand > What machines are sold in your area? Most I guess I'm in Atlanta > What experience do you have with TIG? LOTS...Tiny stuff...1/16" or less electrodes..Had a side business rebuilding pockets on inserted carbide tooling (Engine block broaches and the like) No water cooling required, want a foot control, precise low amp control and timed afterflow. > What metals are you most likely to be welding? Exclusively ferrous...Mild and alloy steels. No interest in aluminum! > Throw some answers out and I will do my best to help. Again, Thanks Ernie. Robert Bastow ======== Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking Subject: Re: Bridgeport vs. Copies From: Robert Bastow Date: Thu, 18 Mar 1999 11:49:47 -0500 -------- Jhko wrote: Ok, Lets put this straight! The Exello is NOT a CLONE of anything!! it is an Exello...Built in Canada for donkeys years befor anyone thought of cloning. As to who came up with the knee type layout and self contained head..probably Bridgeport. But if they hadn't sat on their fat asses and sold the same old stuff for YEARS after other manufacturers had PROVED that there were good improvements that cold be made to same basic design (Exello, Kondia, Tree etc) then maybe they wouldn't be trying now to sell a made in ???? piece of outdated machinery in the face of clones, some of which are equal or better in quality and all of which sell for half the price. If I were a millionaire I wouldn't buy a new Bridgeport when I can get three machines of equal quality for the same price. Robert Bastow > I think we are talking about two different things here. No question, a heavier > built #40 taper machine is better than a light R8 machine., especially for > hogging steel. A light bridgeport is nowhere near the usefulness of a heavier > #40 clone in this regard. What I was talking about the overall *quality*, in > terms of tightness of tolerances, finish, etc. I'm > not familiar with Excello, and maybe they are great, but the clones I've looked > at were good, but not as good as a bridgeport in terms of the quality as I've > defined it. > > Joe Osborn > > OMW Metalcrafts > "Quality Tools for the Home Shop Machinist" > OMW HOME PAGE: http://members.aol.com/omwmetal/omw.htm > EMail: JHKO@AOL.COM ======== Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking Subject: Re: Tig Welder Question From: Robert Bastow Date: Thu, 18 Mar 1999 11:52:28 -0500 -------- What sort of price level for a used Miller? Mlnam wrote: > > If you can find a used Miller Syncrowave 300, buy it. You won't be > disappointed. They can't be beat for range, quality, versatility, durability > and ease of use. (MHO) Some welders and welding equipment repairmen say they > are still better than the newer 350 and 351 models. I've used them for many > years doing art restoration and fabrication as well as architectural work on > all kinds of metals from old brasses and bronzes to new stainless steel. > > Richard Coke > Delete .delete for e-mail ======== Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking Subject: Re: Recycling staples From: Robert Bastow Date: Thu, 18 Mar 1999 17:25:32 GMT -------- Stay on their good side!! They are going to have a LOT of money to leave to someone!!! ;^) Robert Bastow Felice Luftschein & Nicholas Carter wrote: > > On Wed, 17 Mar 1999 05:52:08 GMT, Robert Bastow > wrote: > > >You ARE talking about using said knapkin at the TABLE, aren't you?? ;^) > Yes, I am, but I wouldn't put it past them to share TP. > This is a man and woman who: > resole $5 kmart shoes w/silicone and rubber scraps > make his own air filters for the car out of foam rubber > fly standby everywhere > never eat out without a coupon > etc. etc. ======== Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking Subject: Re: Apology and a question From: Robert Bastow Date: Thu, 18 Mar 1999 23:26:45 GMT -------- It Will work if you make yourself a split die..like a blacksmith's top and bottom fuller only with the shape that you want to finish with. Mild steel will do for a few hundred pieces..No need to harden it. Bore out the shape you want on a 2" cube of steel. split it in half and WELL CHAMFER/ROUND THE INTERNAL EDGES and I mean WELL chamfer them or you will have all kinds of problems with cold shuts. Weld on a long U shaped handle to keep them together (and keep them apart if you catch my drift) Heat up your pipe and slowly introducit into the big end of your die, rotating the pipe and bounding with a BFH at the same time. Stop when your necked piece is long enough. Robert Bastow I actually tried heating the pipe up and pounding it and that > definitely doesn't work so any other suggestions would be greatly appreciated. > Thanks for trying though! > > James Gribbon, Jayverni@aol.com ======== Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking Subject: Re: Tig Welder Question From: Robert Bastow Date: Fri, 19 Mar 1999 17:11:03 GMT -------- Mike Graham wrote: > > On Thu, 18 Mar 1999 08:51:23 -0500, Robert Bastow wrote: > > >Small to tiny; Gunsmithing and Model Engineering...Max 1/8" thickness, no plate > >or section welding. Bolt handles, shortening receivers will be the heaviest. > >Welding up pits, building up sears, sights, will be small end. > > Do you have personal objections to inverter machines? Wots an Inverter machine?? Is portability an issue? No...it can be as light or as heavy as required...It ain't going nowhere! Since you're doing all ferrous > stuff, does scratch-start bother you, or would you need hot-start because of > the cosmetic issues in guns and models? Cosmetics is all important. I liked the foot control because you didn't have to scratch or even touch. Lotsa people can run a nice bead ONCE they get it started..it's at the start and finish where you get all the craters and chicken-shit. With the foot control one could start the arc tiny, play around with a pool of metal a 1/16" diameter, boost it up to 1/4" and back down again with the tip of your toe. No Craters, no chickensh** no porosity, perfect weld every time and I could teach girls to do the welding in half an hour!! They took to it fast..it was just like needlepoint in metal!! > > If you want portable it would be worth looking at the Lincoln >Invertec V250-S. It's a relatively high-amperage machine, but has some >really nice bells and whistles. Starting to narrow the field Portable not required High amps not required. Does anyone make a LOW (Top end) amperage machine like this? > The Square Wave 175 would probably be cheaper, but it's not portable, >and being a good ole' fashioned transformer/rectifier machine it only >goes down to 12 amps instead of 1 amp like the Invertec jobbie, which >is a factor if you want to weld tinfoil. 8-) Not tinfoil but certainly .030" thickness would be handy >If the touch-start TIG aspect of the V250-S is not practical (not >scratch-start, it's touch-start) then a Invertec V200T would be >better. One of the strong points of non contact start is the lack of electrode contamination, and maintainence of the point equals better control of the arc. Thanks Mike, I will print this and go look at prices..I still would like to keep this under a grand (Dream on Huh!!) Robert Bastow ======== Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking Subject: Re: Cupola Furnace Construction and Aluminum From: Robert Bastow Date: Fri, 19 Mar 1999 13:53:27 -0500 -------- I agree entirely with you, but there is one other factor to consider; and that is the "Ash Content"...How much non-combustible material is incorporated in the carbon form. I would imagine that some highly silacious woods would have a higher content than others. Certainly it is a factor when calculating the BTU content of different grades of coal. Robert Bastow Gary Coffman wrote: A pound of willow charcoal has exactly the > same BTU content as a pound of oak charcoal, but it has a different burning > rate in its raw state. ======== Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking Subject: Re: Bridgeport vs. Copies From: Robert Bastow Date: Fri, 19 Mar 1999 13:57:56 -0500 -------- I entirely agree! Than, I guess was the whole point of my message..That the Excello is not a CLONE of the BP, but a whole different and beefier machine. Robert Bastow G L Keeney wrote: > > Robert Bastow wrote in message <36F0C8E6.6FC824D7@hotmail.com>... > >The Exello is a heavier build, more rigid and more durable machine. The > Exello > >has a stiffer spindle..most I saw used a 40 taper rather than R8. It also > has > >square ways on the cross slide...just like REAL mills. > > > -----snip----- > > No disrespect intended, Robert, but considering the differences you mention, > this seems an awful lot like comparing apples and oranges. ======== Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking Subject: Re: Tig Welder Question Thanks From: Robert Bastow Date: Fri, 19 Mar 1999 14:15:06 -0500 -------- I just want to say a BIG THANK YOU!!!..To all those guys who rose so magnificently to my plea for information. I Feel I know have enough information to get exactly what I need. Knowing that, it makes it a LOT easier to bite the bullet and spring $1400 to $2000 for the right equipment...Or at least know what to look for in used equipment. (Dream on..Huh!) Thanks Guys, it's what this NG is all about. Robert Bastow ======== Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking Subject: Re: FS Monarch 10EE From: Robert Bastow Date: Sat, 20 Mar 1999 20:17:30 GMT -------- I'd say your trolling (before Troll was a BAD WORD) will raise a spark or two of interest!! Robert Bastow Bruce Lowell wrote: > > Just fishin' right now,but may soon have my 10 EE for sale, its a pre > tube model, runs beautifully, includes , Buck 3 jaw ,a 4 jaw, Face plate > ,5C collett holder (needs Draw bar) and numerous colletts, Steady rest, > Follow Rest, KDK tool holder/with many bars, Trav-a-Dial, True Trace, > tracer, and rotary phase converter.lots of other small stuff, am > thinking around 5K is this reasonable? located in So. Cal. > Thanx. > Bruce > brulow@ecom.net ======== Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking Subject: Re: A new model project From: Robert Bastow Date: Sun, 21 Mar 1999 01:39:50 -0500 -------- Mike Graham wrote: A MODEL .22!! Now there's a project! Say 1/10th scale to make it interesting. Make a heck of a varmint rifle for flies and roaches!! ;^) In that caliber (0.022") you would probably need sabot discarding, depleted uranium, arrow shot for roaches. Robert Bastow > Remington Cyclone .22LR 36 grain bullet > muzzle velocity 1280fps > @100 yards 1017fps > energy at muzzle 131ft-lbs > @100 yards 82ft-lbs > mid-range trajectory: 100 yards = 3.0" > > Hopefully this is enough info to build a model from. > > -- > Mike Graham, mike@headwaters.com > Caledon, Ontario, Canada (just NW of Toronto). > > Raiser of animals. Weldor of metals. Driver of off-road vehicles. > Writer of FAQs. Keeper of the faith, and all around okay guy. > > ======== Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking Subject: Re: '98 Darwin Awards From: Robert Bastow Date: Sun, 21 Mar 1999 01:47:32 -0500 -------- Erich Muschinske wrote: They were probably only a couple of hours from port! But with two days of good fishin' ahead, hey, what's the rush!! Hit the ball..Drag Fred...Hit the ball...drag Fred....? Three golfers, who's partner and best friend dropped dead on the second tee!! Robert Bastow Nominee #2: A sportsman fishing off the coast of Mexico. Refused to drop > a can with a homemade firework in it. Blew his hand off and bled to > death. His buddies being the sportsmen they are, tossed his body in with > the other catch and proceeded to the nearest port, two days away. > > There will be others, the year is still young. > > Erich ======== Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking Subject: Re: Off topic, a request From: Robert Bastow Date: Sun, 21 Mar 1999 02:02:37 -0500 -------- Carl Byrns wrote: > > Hi, folks > I have a little problem that I know some of you have had in the past. Join the witness protection program! Robert Bastow > I have a relative who insists on e-mailing me an amazing amount of > drivel: warnings about viruses, lame jokes, inspirational stories from > Reader's Digest, you name it. Snip > The sender is my sis-in-law and I love her dearly, but she is driving me > nuts. > Any ideas? > TIA- Carl > PS- e-mail responses are appreciated. ======== Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking Subject: Re: '98 Darwin Awards From: Robert Bastow Date: Sun, 21 Mar 1999 09:41:09 -0500 -------- Alan Shinn wrote: At one time I was heavily engaged in Export Sales, covering Europe, Africa, Middle East and North America. As you can imagine I was a "Frequent Flier"!!! The ONLY 'plane I ever missed in all that time...Was the Turkish Airlines DC10 from Paris to London..That crashed after takeoff!!! First and only time I ever found something good to say about Parisian traffic!! Robert Bastow > How about the rest of you, stepped aside to grab something just as the > grinding wheel exploded, stumbled just before some idiot runs a red > light where you would have been, etc? > Might be a fun thread. > -- > Looking forward: > Alan Shinn > > Experience the > beginnings of microscopy. > Make or buy your own replica > of one of Antony van Leeuwenhoek's microscopes. > visit http://www.sirius.com/~alshinn/ ======== Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking Subject: Re: A new model project From: Robert Bastow Date: Sun, 21 Mar 1999 10:02:35 -0500 -------- Unfortunately "Nature doesn't Scale" that conveniently. Dimensions scale directly but volume, hence mass, varies as the cube root. A .22 lead ball (Assuming equal MV which would be unlikely because area varies as the square..equals less push in the first place) but assuming equal velocity to it's big brother, would sting like heck at close range. MAYBE it would penetrate a soft spot. However, another characteristic of small scale is that fluids, effectively become more viscous. To a fly, flying is more akin to swimming!! The velocity and energy of our miniscule bullet would drop off rapidly...a matter of inches. One good thing about this is that bits of grit thrown from,say a grinding disc, don't penetrate us through and through. Going the other way in scale, Imagine a 2.20" inch projectile at 1100 fps!! Soldiers in a bygone age, were paid a bounty for collecting enemy cannon balls that could be fired back at them. Many found to their cost, that a trundling, almost spent cannon ball, could still take your leg off!! ;^) Robert Bastow Mike Graham wrote: > > On Sun, 21 Mar 1999 01:39:50 -0500, Robert Bastow wrote: > > >A MODEL .22!! Now there's a project! > Well, if a 1/10 scale model .22LR had 1/10 power then at 100 yards (real > yards, not scale yards) it would have an impact power of 8 ft/lbs. I think > this thing would have about the power of a blow-gun, ======== Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking Subject: Re: Re '98 Darwin awards From: Robert Bastow Date: Sun, 21 Mar 1999 10:12:37 -0500 -------- Close..But no cigar!! The 'Powder' used in big guns is a double basted nitro propellant, just like you would use in a modern rifle...except it comes in fist sized 'grains'!! Where the confusion may have arisen, is that the bag of 'powder' has a smaller bag of black powder stitched to its base, to act as as an 'igniter/booster' to get the real propellant going. Robert Bastow Nick Hull wrote: > Actually, the propellant used in the 16" guns IS black powder, and leaves > huge clouds of white smoke when they fire it. The accident would not have > hAppened with smokeless powder. > > -- > > Committees of Correspondence Web page: > http://www.geocities.com/CapitolHill/5357/ > - free men own guns, slaves don't ======== Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking Subject: Re: duplicating the knurling on a Japanese rifle safety From: Robert Bastow Date: Sun, 21 Mar 1999 10:30:14 -0500 -------- Me too! Me either!! I'm looking for a set of fine knurls in a convex *and* concave persuasion...the kind you would find on fine instruments..drafting instruments or microscopes etc. I saw them in a catalogue not too long ago...but I can't remember where. Any suggestions? Thanks, Robert Bastow Kurt Bjorn wrote: > I have seen advertisements for knurlers which will do convex knurls, but > they aren't common. I'm sorry, I don't remember where I saw them. > Kurt Bjorn > http://www.flash.net/~pyroware > Certified IC Engine whacko ======== Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking Subject: Re: Need parts for South Bend 10L From: Robert Bastow Date: Sun, 21 Mar 1999 10:38:15 -0500 -------- My Heart felt condolences. I can imagine the sick feeling in your stomach as you heard that particular "Crunch" that falling machine tools make!! Cheer up though, there should be no problem finding the bits you need and I am sure our worthy listers will come up with all the right information. Could be worse..Could have been a new import machine, then you'd be SOL for parts!!! ;^) Robert Bastow Bill Edison wrote: > > Hey, > Just incase the inquires I have out aren't successful... > As the result of a foolish move on my part and some well-placed > floor-cracks, my 10L took a topple over the weekend. When it was upright > again, the carnage wasn't as bad as feared. The gearbox lever and > detent broke (The gear itself and knurled knob survived) and the > cross-slide handle, dial, and screw are history. Anyone got anything? > The rest of the lathe is in good shape. If I can't > come up with the parts, it may be Grizzly 12 x 36 time... > > cheers, > > Bill Edison ======== Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking Subject: Re: Two Peoples Separated.. From: Robert Bastow Date: Sun, 21 Mar 1999 19:12:29 GMT -------- "Firearms Banned in the UK!!" Its a F******G JOKE!!! The joke of it is, that ILLEGAL guns were always easy to come by in the UK. As a (legal) collector and shooter, I, and every other shooter I knew had "Off-Ticket" weapons that ranged from pistols and rifles to full-auto weapons. I had a Sten gun that I bought from an ex National Service Quartermaster's clerk...Brand new in the original packing...for Five Quid!! I know where that gun is RIGHT NOW..and could have it in my possesion within hours of landing in the UK. From what my mother tells me about the fear she feels daily, even in my sleepy little Pennine home village...I wouldn't feel real safe without it!! I still maintain a lot of contacts over there, some of them are shooters/collectors. They still have guns, only now, a 100% are illegal rather than only 50% to 75%. Only difference is, that now they don't have to keep their collections in a police specified, police inspected "safe" room and they are no longer subjected to the possibility of a random inspection by the police as previously allowed by Firearms Certificate regulations. Naturally the price of illegal weapons and ammunition has gone up some..but availability is greater now! Like Prohibition in the USA, the "Illegality" and the larger market that has has been created has resulted in a flood of weapons being smuggled into the country. They come in container loads, welded into machinery frames car bodies, consumer electrics..You name it. Any one over there feel the need for a little "Homeowner's Insurance" contact me off list, once I establish your credentials I'll put you in touch with the right "Insurance Agent"!! When the Law is an Ass...people treat it as such!! Robert Bastow PumaRacing wrote: > >Don't know who you talk to Tony, but only about 1 % of my acquaintances > >think that removing legal guns was going to make them feel safer. ======== To: paul_probus@yahoo.com Newsgroups: talk.politics.guns,rec.crafts.metalworking,alt.music.bootlegs,rec.toys.action-figures.discuss Subject: Re: Do you use eBay? From: Robert Bastow Date: Sun, 21 Mar 1999 19:21:35 GMT -------- Well put Paul, I know EXACTLY what you mean about the Anti-Immigrant, Anti-Foreigner, sentiments. It got scary for a while!! Robert Bastow paul_probus@yahoo.com wrote: > > In article <36F4AA1F.A4F3F0FA@ix.netcom.com>, > "W. E. Woods" wrote: > > > > > > Matt wrote: > > > > > > In article , dasher@netcom.com (Anton > > > Sherwood) wrote: > > > > > > > : wolfone@dillinger-2.io.com (no one of consequence) wrote: > > > > : > In other words, your mind is made up and you don't want to be confused > by > > > > : > facts? > > > > > > > > Matt writes > > > > : Or just perhaps he's heard the facts, ad nauseum, and has drwan the > > > > : obvious conclusions. Guns, on the whole, are instruments of death. > > > > : The United States would be a better place to live if they were kept > > > > : out of the hands of all but the police and the military. > > > > > > > > Would you like to hear about some other places where guns were kept > > > > out of the hands of all but the police and the military? > > > > > > As long as the government remains a democracy, it's not a problem. > > > > Something you cannot guarantee if you disarm the people. > > > > Exactly! What I never understood is why the ACLU and other liberals are > willing to defend every other right guaranteed in the Bill of Rights as an > individual right *EXCEPT* the right to bear arms. That is the only right > that, they say, is a "collective" right. > > Another example of people not having weapons when they needed them, in > addition to the LA riots mentioned in another part of this thread, is the > Bosnian civil war. Had the Muslim and Croat majorities been well armed at > the start, the Bosnian Serbs would not have stood a chance. Here is an > excellent example of where democratic rights were trampled (the war broke out > after the majority of Bosnians voted in *DEMOCRATIC* elections to succede > from Yugoslavia) by a well armed minority. > > While the situations in Bosnia and here in the US are very different. > However, if some people are proposing to allow only law enforcement and the > military to have weapons, they are creating a well armed minority and unarmed > majority, not unlike Bosnia. They are also gambling that a charismatic > political leader is not going to come along at the right time and convince > the military that the US would be better off with him/her as dictator. Don't > think it can happen? I say, Nazi Germany. With the recession we had in the > early '90's, I noticed an increase in anti-immigrant, anti-foreigner or > whatever you want to call it, sentiment. Imagine if the economic down turn > lasted 5 years, 10 years, 15 years or longer, how ripe this country would be > for someone with dictatorial ambitions. Imagine if the economy's in the pits > for that long and the newly elected President (at that time) suddenly > declares he needs absolute power to fix the economy, there'd be people > falling over themselves to give it to him. Disband Congress? Arrest all the > Senators? Martial law for the citizens? Sure, anything to fix the economy. > We're willing to overlook our President's perjury because the economy's doing > very well. > > Every citizen of the US has not only the right, but an obligation to defend > the Constitutional government our founding fathers laid out for us, until the > time we, democratically, choose to write up a new Constitution. > > Paul Probus > paul_probus@yahoo.com > > -----------== Posted via Deja News, The Discussion Network ==---------- > http://www.dejanews.com/ Search, Read, Discuss, or Start Your Own ======== Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking Subject: Re: Emco-Maier Maximat Super 11 From: Robert Bastow Date: Sun, 21 Mar 1999 19:43:36 GMT -------- I have a Maximat Super II..Excellent machine, highly recommended! They are no longer being made, but Blue Ridge, (the Emco Distributor) had a couple of new ones for sale recently for, IIRC about $8500 each. Be warned that spares do NOT come cheap..but you won't need many!! The used price, in excellent condition, seems to be around $4500. I paid less than half that, ex school property and, after a good clean, de-burring of a few "Kiddy-bumps" and a few mods to suit me, it is perfect for my purposes and hopefully will see me out in my retirement. Get it if you can!! Robert Bastow ssmart@axionet.com wrote: > > Hi All, > > My Neighbour has this Emco-Maier lathe and I think he is willing to part with > it as he has only used it about 6 times in the last 4 years. It appears to be > in very good shape, I know he has not used it much and the previous owner > only did plastic prototyping with it. I'm not sure what tooling it has, > although it has what looks like a minature quick change toolpost (says emco > on it). I was told he only paid $1500 for it and a floor standing mill/drill > ( I think the other guy owed him some money as well). Anyone know what this > lathe would be worth? Is this a good lathe, opinions please. > > Thanks in Advance > > Scott > > -----------== Posted via Deja News, The Discussion Network ==---------- > http://www.dejanews.com/ Search, Read, Discuss, or Start Your Own ======== Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking Subject: Re: Emco-Maier Maximat Super 11 From: Robert Bastow Date: Sun, 21 Mar 1999 19:46:38 GMT -------- Where is this place? For $3500 I will buy it NOW!!! And I am DEAD serious! I can get $4000 for my used one any day of the week!! Robert Bastow Marv Soloff wrote: > > ssmart@axionet.com wrote: > > > > Hi All, > > > > My Neighbour has this Emco-Maier lathe and I think he is willing to part with > > it as he has only used it about 6 times in the last 4 years. It appears to be > > in very good shape, I know he has not used it much and the previous owner > > only did plastic prototyping with it. I'm not sure what tooling it has, > > although it has what looks like a minature quick change toolpost (says emco > > on it). I was told he only paid $1500 for it and a floor standing mill/drill > > ( I think the other guy owed him some money as well). Anyone know what this > > lathe would be worth? Is this a good lathe, opinions please. > > > > Thanks in Advance > > > > Scott > > > > -----------== Posted via Deja News, The Discussion Network ==---------- > > http://www.dejanews.com/ Search, Read, Discuss, or Start Your Own > > Scott: > > Clifton Tool (up the street from me) has had, for the last few years, > a NOS (new, old stock) Maximat 10 or 11 - I'm not sure - sitting in > their showroom. Price was $6500, now marked down to $3600 - but if > it continues to gather dust, it can probably be had for some $3000 or > so. > > Regards, > > Marv ======== Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking Subject: Re: Emco-Maier Maximat Super 11 From: Robert Bastow Date: Sun, 21 Mar 1999 19:54:41 GMT -------- I should add...That is, if this is a Maximat Super II. The 10 is a toy by comparison and $3000 is WAY too much to pay for it. Get a good used Myford..or SB for that money. Robert Bastow Robert Bastow wrote: > > Where is this place? For $3500 I will buy it NOW!!! > > And I am DEAD serious! > > I can get $4000 for my used one any day of the week!! > > Robert Bastow > > Marv Soloff wrote: > > > > ssmart@axionet.com wrote: > > > > > > Hi All, > > > > > > My Neighbour has this Emco-Maier lathe and I think he is willing to part with > > > it as he has only used it about 6 times in the last 4 years. It appears to be > > > in very good shape, I know he has not used it much and the previous owner > > > only did plastic prototyping with it. I'm not sure what tooling it has, > > > although it has what looks like a minature quick change toolpost (says emco > > > on it). I was told he only paid $1500 for it and a floor standing mill/drill > > > ( I think the other guy owed him some money as well). Anyone know what this > > > lathe would be worth? Is this a good lathe, opinions please. > > > > > > Thanks in Advance > > > > > > Scott > > > > > > -----------== Posted via Deja News, The Discussion Network ==---------- > > > http://www.dejanews.com/ Search, Read, Discuss, or Start Your Own > > > > Scott: > > > > Clifton Tool (up the street from me) has had, for the last few years, > > a NOS (new, old stock) Maximat 10 or 11 - I'm not sure - sitting in > > their showroom. Price was $6500, now marked down to $3600 - but if > > it continues to gather dust, it can probably be had for some $3000 or > > so. > > > > Regards, > > > > Marv ======== Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking Subject: Re: Re '98 Darwin awards From: Robert Bastow Date: Mon, 22 Mar 1999 01:25:03 -0500 -------- Nope, It's Nitro based with a (small) black powder primer. Not real smokeless..but that doesn't matter when you are sitting behind 16" of armour plate and directing fire by radar. Some of the smoke is generated by the burning of the silk bag the charge comes in plus the little bit of balck powder. Most of it comes from the nitro powder and is not white, but the characteristic dirty orange/brown of burning "Big Gun" powder. Robert Bastow Eastburn wrote: > > I have also heard that it was black powder - I think smokeless powder burns to fast to use. > Remember - the 2000+ lbs shell has to start moving - not rocket out of there. > Martin (whos great grand father commanded the great white fleet) Eastburn > -- > NRA LOH, NRA Life > NRA Second Amendment Task Force Charter Founder > Martin Eastburn, Barbara Eastburn > @ home on our computer oldtree@pacbell.net ======== Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking Subject: Re: Ebay reality check ? From: Robert Bastow Date: Mon, 22 Mar 1999 01:27:33 -0500 -------- David, Shhhh! ;^) Jack Erbes wrote: > > Robert Bastow wrote: > > > > David, Shhhh! > > > > > Boy, you can say that again. But maybe you better not. > > -- > Jack in Sonoma, CA, USA (jack@vom.com) ======== Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking,alt.usenet.usap Subject: Re: USAP Analysis of this newgroup, rec.crafts.metalworking From: Robert Bastow Date: Mon, 22 Mar 1999 01:31:25 -0500 -------- WHO'S A LOUDMOUTH???? Robert Bastow > BTW, does whoever provides this review service think we don't know > who the > loudmouths are ? > > dave (ducking under his desk for a while) ======== Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking Subject: Re: Got a J Head Bridgeport Now what? From: Robert Bastow Date: Mon, 22 Mar 1999 01:34:39 -0500 -------- Look out Mike et. al.!! Gunner's after the title of "Starter of the Longest Thread in Recorded History"!! Robert Bastow Gunner wrote: > > Ive just been told that I am about to be the owner of a J-head > Bridgeport, step pully model. Ive seen the mill, and it is rusty and > nasty looking, but seems to be all there. It is three phase, and I can > run it. on my converter. Ok here is the question > Once I get it home, where do I start? If you got one like I did, where > would you start checking, testing etc etc, > > I am going to clean it up, repaint and all the rest, so Id like to > know just what order everything needs to proceed. > > Thanks > > Gunner > > "A human being should be able to change a diaper, plan an > invasion, butcher a hog, conn a ship, design a building, write > a sonnet, balance accounts, build a wall, set a bone, comfort > the dying, take orders, give orders, cooperate, act alone, > solve equations, analyze a new problem, pitch manure, program > a computer, cook a tasty meal, fight efficiently, die > gallantly. Specialization is for insects." Robert Heinlein ======== Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking Subject: Re: Ebay reality check ? From: Robert Bastow Date: Mon, 22 Mar 1999 23:55:50 GMT -------- David, Shhhh! David Erickson wrote: > And as a seller, I probably should not give away the single best strategy > to get a lower price, but here it is: Bid *only* at the very end of the > auction. > > Don't give away your cards early; when you bid, others will respond. > > Ever notice how many of the items that sell for ridiculous prices are bought > by ebay users with feedback ratings under 10? These guys have no clue what > things are worth, they are new to the auctions and just want to win, and will > bid higher when they are outbid. > > Also notice how the number of bids on an item attracts attention to it. > > And finally, how easy it is to bookmark the current bidding list of other > users who like the same sort of tools you do, and who like to bid early. > > All of these point to one thing: bid only during the closing seconds of the > auction, when no one can respond to your bid, and no one has a clue that you > are interested. > > Dave > -- > ----------------------------------------------------------------------------- > David Erickson Software Engineer Rational Software Corporation > email: davide@rational.com > ----------------------------------------------------------------------------- ======== Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking Subject: Re: Ebay reality check ? From: Robert Bastow Date: Mon, 22 Mar 1999 23:57:01 GMT -------- David, Shhhh! David Erickson wrote: > And as a seller, I probably should not give away the single best strategy > to get a lower price, but here it is: Bid *only* at the very end of the > auction. > > Don't give away your cards early; when you bid, others will respond. > > Ever notice how many of the items that sell for ridiculous prices are bought > by ebay users with feedback ratings under 10? These guys have no clue what > things are worth, they are new to the auctions and just want to win, and will > bid higher when they are outbid. > > Also notice how the number of bids on an item attracts attention to it. > > And finally, how easy it is to bookmark the current bidding list of other > users who like the same sort of tools you do, and who like to bid early. > > All of these point to one thing: bid only during the closing seconds of the > auction, when no one can respond to your bid, and no one has a clue that you > are interested. > > Dave > -- > ----------------------------------------------------------------------------- > David Erickson Software Engineer Rational Software Corporation > email: davide@rational.com > ----------------------------------------------------------------------------- ======== Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking Subject: Re: Ebay reality check ? From: Robert Bastow Date: Mon, 22 Mar 1999 23:57:14 GMT -------- David, Shhhh! David Erickson wrote: > And as a seller, I probably should not give away the single best strategy > to get a lower price, but here it is: Bid *only* at the very end of the > auction. > > Don't give away your cards early; when you bid, others will respond. > > Ever notice how many of the items that sell for ridiculous prices are bought > by ebay users with feedback ratings under 10? These guys have no clue what > things are worth, they are new to the auctions and just want to win, and will > bid higher when they are outbid. > > Also notice how the number of bids on an item attracts attention to it. > > And finally, how easy it is to bookmark the current bidding list of other > users who like the same sort of tools you do, and who like to bid early. > > All of these point to one thing: bid only during the closing seconds of the > auction, when no one can respond to your bid, and no one has a clue that you > are interested. > > Dave > -- > ----------------------------------------------------------------------------- > David Erickson Software Engineer Rational Software Corporation > email: davide@rational.com > ----------------------------------------------------------------------------- ======== Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking Subject: Re: Ebay reality check ? From: Robert Bastow Date: Tue, 23 Mar 1999 01:23:39 -0500 -------- I have successfully bought over a hundred items on ebay and AuctionArms..every single one under my maximum price/bid level!! How do I do that? I'll never tell!! ;^) Robert Bastow Jack Erbes wrote: > > David is right on the mark as far as bidding at the last minute, it is > the only way bidders can keep prices down if there is any interest. > > But remember, that has become the standard technique for many bidders. > So when you bid, bid the highest amount that you are actually willing to > pay for the item. > > That way if there are other last minute bidders who bid less than you do > you will still end up high. It bids your amount as a proxy bid so it > not go your full amount unless another bidder forces the bid up. > > You may end up getting it for one bid increment over the current high, > the full amount you bid, or you may not win at all. But you are in or > out at a figure you were willing to spend. > > -- > Jack in Sonoma, CA, USA (jack@vom.com) ======== Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking Subject: Re: Help (hints) needed for boring project From: Robert Bastow Date: Tue, 23 Mar 1999 01:29:55 -0500 -------- You could trepan it out..But if I have to explain how to do that..Best not try!! It will give you grey hairs! ;^) Try a spade drill. Robert Bastow Greg Holmes wrote: > > Here is the (hopefully simple) problem -- I have to bore out a 3" diam. > hole in a 4.5" diam. chunk of aluminum (this is for a collet for a > microscope stand). > > The question is -- Are there any quick ways (using standard shop tools) > to rough cut the center portion of this aluminum out (say, 2.75" diam.) > so that I can bore to specs without having to create a lot of aluminum > scrap? > > Thanks in advance. > > Greg > > ******************************* > Gregory M. Holmes, Ph.D. > CBNA > The Ohio State University > Columbus, OH 43210 > > holmes.38@osu.edu > ******************************* ======== Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking Subject: Re: How to shread some .22 cases? From: Robert Bastow Date: Tue, 23 Mar 1999 01:39:03 -0500 -------- I hope you don't want to machine the castings afterwards. Cartridge brass is 70/30..great for deep drawing..But the nastiest, stringiest, stuff you can imagine to machine. Chips have the uncanny ability to weld back on the work piece behind the tool. Forget negative rake tooling, treat it like soft copper..Lots of toprake, razor sharp tools and plenty of lube. Robert Bastow John Wasser wrote: > > I have access to a large supply of .22 rimfire amunitaion cases (fired) and > would like to melt them in my Propane-Fired Coffee-Can Foundry > (http://www.John-Wasser.com/NEMES/PCCF.html). The main problem is that they > allow so much air circulation that the zinc content tends to burn. I think if > I could grind or shred them into smaller pieces I could fit more in the > crucible and they would melt better. > > I have thought of using a kitchen meat grinder on them but don't want to spend > $50 on one without knowing if it has a > chance of working. Does anyone have other ideas? I suppose I could try > crushing them, too. > > -----------== Posted via Deja News, The Discussion Network ==---------- > http://www.dejanews.com/ Search, Read, Discuss, or Start Your Own ======== Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking Subject: Re: Milling squared inside corners From: Robert Bastow Date: Tue, 23 Mar 1999 01:47:15 -0500 -------- Simple HSM solution.. File the corners of the mating piece to match the round corners of the hole!! Robert Bastow Tom Holt wrote: > > As far as I'm aware, there is no simple answer to this for the small > home workshop. If anybody out there can prove me wrong, I'd love to > hear about it. ======== Newsgroups: alt.machines.cnc,rec.crafts.metalworking,alt.machines.misc Subject: Re: Milling squared inside corners From: Robert Bastow Date: Tue, 23 Mar 1999 01:49:11 -0500 -------- HUH? /* Joseph H. > Allen */ > > int > a[1817];main(z,p,q,r){for(p=80;q+p-80;p-=2*a[p])for(z=9;z--;)q=3&(r=time(0) > > > +r*57)/7,q=q?q-1?q-2?1-p%79?-1:0:p%79-77?1:0:p<1659?79:0:p>158?-79:0,q?!a[p+ > q*2 > > ]?a[p+=a[p+=q]=q]=q:0:0;for(;q++-1817;)printf(q%79?"%c":"%c\n"," > #"[!a[q-1]]);} ======== Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking Subject: Re: Sparkler From: Robert Bastow Date: Tue, 23 Mar 1999 01:55:20 -0500 -------- Thanks for the vote of (misplaced) confidence Eddy!! My considered, experienced, advice would have been to "RUN LIKE F**K".. I bet you couldn't have out run this old fart!! Robert Bastow Eddy Wells wrote: > DAMN !! WHERES ROBERT BASTOW?? HE KNOWS ABOUT THIS STUFF... > ======== Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking Subject: Re: What am I doing wrong with threading tool? From: Robert Bastow Date: Tue, 23 Mar 1999 01:59:04 -0500 -------- Run faster..first direct gear! Robert Bastow Alden Hackmann wrote: > > I recently got a threading toolholder for my Aloris quick-change > toolpost. It takes TMNC inserts. I had a chance to use it yesterday, > and broke or chipped the tip of the insert in pretty quick order on all > three surfaces. After the first one, I was careful to check the > alignment, and take small (0.001-0.002) feeds. > > I'm cutting 5/16-18 threads in O-1 drill rod, with (I think) a C-7 > insert, on a 9" South Bend, lowest back gear. > > What should I be doing differently? > > Alden > > > -- > Alden F.M. Hackmann darkstar@u.washington.edu > Web: http://weber.u.washington.edu/~darkstar/ > "Beati illi qui in circulum circumeunt, fient enim magnae rotae." ======== Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking Subject: Re: Ebay reality check ? From: Robert Bastow Date: Tue, 23 Mar 1999 04:21:51 -0500 -------- I was doing that years before ebay was invented!! Robert Bastow AZOTIC wrote: > > I herd connecting to the ebay auction site > causes you to be infected with a virus, you > can not resist the the temptation to buy things > you don't need once you are infected. This > infection is far worse than any drug known > to man, you loose all your friends and family > your home and job, ending in you living out > of your shop scrounging in scrap yards for > bits of metal to support your habbit. > > JUST SAY NO !!! > > Best Regards > Tom. ======== Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking Subject: Re: Micro welding? From: Robert Bastow Date: Wed, 24 Mar 1999 02:44:14 -0500 -------- THERE'S a thought!! Let's Incorporate, go Public and make a fortune!! 8^) Robert Bastow Don Foreman wrote: > You could only wish for an engineering organization with the diversity, > talent, ingenuity, motivation level and resources that exist in this group. > ======== Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking Subject: Re: ToolPost grinder? From: Robert Bastow Date: Wed, 24 Mar 1999 03:10:08 -0500 -------- Been there..Done that! I'm afraid you will find that the bearings on your grinder (ANY hand grinder) are nowhere NEAR good enough and all you will get is a very rough finish. Now as a drive unit, belt driving a well made grinding spindle, your disc grinder may have possibilities. Check out Home Workshop Magazine recent issues for ideas. (Or is it Home Shop Machinist? Why are there two identical magazines coming from the same publisher??) Robert Bastow Clare Snyder wrote: > > Has anyone tried using a 4" disk grinder as an external tool-post > grinder? I was looking at mine and my Myford yesterday. If I make a > bracket to fit into a T-Slot on the carriage that sticks out towards > the chuck, wirh a bolt going up through the end into the threaded > handle hole in the grinder head, and then make a bracket to go from > the other handle hole back down to the carriage at an angle it should > fit pretty snuggly. This would allow me to grind shafting to a very > nice finish if I can get fine enough wheels. How fine does the stone > have to be at the cutting speeds we are looking at here? With a slow > enough feed and the high wheel speed just about anything should make a > smooth job?. > On the top bracket I can make a mount for the diamond wheel dresser. > The grinder centerline and work centerline will be just about dead on. > > Any feedback on this - Am I missing some dragons that are likely to > bite me? > > When grinding on the lathe, what precautions are usually taken re: > abrasives and ways, crossfeed, etc?. > Snyder Enterprises > Appropriate Technology for the Information Age > Waterloo Ontario. > > To reply please drop the r, and send to : > clsnyde@ibm.net or clare@snyder.on.ca > Too many misdirected replies plugging my mail box!!! ======== Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking Subject: Re: Re '98 Darwin awards From: Robert Bastow Date: Thu, 25 Mar 1999 01:41:39 GMT -------- (Yawn) Whatever happened to good 'ole HTML??? Drag is greater than proportional to V squared near the > speed of sound so in fact the bullet wouldn't go as far as I predicted. > As for the drastic difference in numerical values for bc, I think we > have a units problem here. My bc is defined as (the rate of change in > velocity in fps/ft) divided by (the velocity in fps) so the units are > ft^-1. Note that the approximate calculation of bc I posted is quite > close to the value we see here. > Just for the heck of it, I tried a bc of 0.008 (~10 times larger) with > the same V0 and get 151 yds range and opt angle of 21.6 degrees. This > is consistent with the previous results. > ======== Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking Subject: Re: Milling squared inside corners From: Robert Bastow Date: Thu, 25 Mar 1999 01:49:26 GMT -------- I guess therein lies the difference! To me the file is as accurate (or more so) than any other tool in my shop. It is capable of sub, tenth-thou accuracy if you take the time to learn its use. Tom Holt wrote: > > The message <36F738F3.68766641@hotmail.com> > from Robert Bastow contains these words: > > > Simple HSM solution.. > > > File the corners of the mating piece to match the round corners of the hole!! > > There you go, using the F word again. In my dictionary, "file" is > defined as "a long, serrated hand tool used for buggering up a > precisely machined piece of work"... ======== Newsgroups: alt.machines.cnc,rec.crafts.metalworking,alt.machines.misc Subject: Re: Milling squared inside corners From: Robert Bastow Date: Thu, 25 Mar 1999 01:52:06 GMT -------- D'accord! hamei@pacbell.net wrote: > > hate to get into this same old argument, but NO !!! it is NOT possible to > make "precision' gears on a cheap lathe. It is NOT possible to make 'precision' > gears on an *expensive* lathe. Precision gears are cut on gear machines. > (references and data available on request) > > skål ! > > ---------------------------------------------------------- > Härad Ængravvård > Master of all he surveys > ----------------------------------------------------------- ======== Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking Subject: Re: What am I doing wrong with threading tool? From: Robert Bastow Date: Thu, 25 Mar 1999 01:57:33 GMT -------- Practice, Practice, is all it takes. That, and the knowledge that if it CAN be done, YOU can do it!! It is a LOT easier than you imagine...How the heck do you think *I* could do it otherwise?? Robert Bastow Alden Hackmann wrote: I'm not sure I can disengage the carriage and pull the tool > out in time at higher speeds, but I'm willing to try it. Suggestions of > how to gain this skill will be appreciated. ======== Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking Subject: Re: What am I doing wrong with threading tool? From: Robert Bastow Date: Thu, 25 Mar 1999 02:00:26 GMT -------- There you go again Marc..shooting your mouth off!! Soon, we Girls will have NO secrets!! ;^) Robert Bastow Marc Warden wrote: but where one needs to > turn the part at a (relatively) high speed for finish, I've turned the threading > tool upside down and threaded from the headstock out towards the tailstock. The > threading tool is on the operator side of the part, just upside down. The part > must be turned in reverse. ======== Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking Subject: Re: Weight of a Heavy 10... From: Robert Bastow Date: Thu, 25 Mar 1999 02:10:54 GMT -------- Best advice Sean! FIND a pro mover, pay the tab, and go drink beer while they do the job! Quite apart from the danger and liability of doing it yourself...It is worth it, in terms of not having to worry and scheme about it for the next month. Concentrate on the joys of making stuff!! Voice of experience! Robert Bastow Sean Thomas O'Malley wrote: > > Howdy folks, > > In anticipation of taking delivery on a South Bend Heavy 10, I've been > perusing the old threads on moving machinery. Those various anecdotes > have me concerned both about getting the crated machine from the freight > terminal to my shop and then into its final resting place and out of > the crate. > > For those of you who have done this before, how much does a SB like > this weigh? For the record, it's a Heavy 10 with 4 ft bed and a > tube steel cabinet base. I'm assuming this won't be the nightmare > experience that a vertical mill would be, but I still want > to go at this the right way. I live in a small town, so there > aren't a whole lot of pro movers to choose from. > > Thanks, > > --sean ======== Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking Subject: Re: Flat Rolling From: Robert Bastow Date: Thu, 25 Mar 1999 02:16:00 GMT -------- Yer Kiddin'! Right?? The "Real Fifi" FEFA wrote: > > Hi .. Need your help to figure out a way to solve this problem. I have a 2 > in. thick steel plate , we want to reduce its thickness by some rolling steps > so its final thickness is 0.75. The roll s radius are 30 in. and the > coefficient of friction between the rolls and the steel is 0.25. Now the > problem is.. how many steps do I have to make so that the reduction is always > the same.And what draft should I use. The maximum draft is 1.875 in. > > Really would apreciate it if you could at least HINT me!!! He-he!!! > > Thanx!!!! > > Maria! ======== Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking Subject: Re: a fine cut on electroplated nickle From: Robert Bastow Date: Thu, 25 Mar 1999 02:21:45 GMT -------- Use a series of split laps. Robert Bastow john deffner wrote: > > I've got a 9" diameter cylinder that has an electroplated nickle > sleeve about 5 thou thick mounted on it. The sleeve has ripples in it > that are about 200 micro inches high in addition to general surface > roughness. We've tried polishing, and can get the surface pretty much > mirror smooth with lots of work, but are having trouble getting rid of > the ripples. We need to get them down to under about 20 micro inches > and also pr0oduce a mirror finish. > > We've been talking about turning or grinding off the 200 micro inches, > and have the bearings and carriage to hold the tolerances easily, but > I'm pretty baffled about the proper tool. Would a diamond or carbide > be reasonable? Would a grinding wheel mounted on the carriage be > better? I've got *really* good control over feed rates in both the > linear direction and rotation if that's significant. > > Any ideas? > > John ======== Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking Subject: Re: Auction Report From: Robert Bastow Date: Thu, 25 Mar 1999 02:23:43 GMT -------- And you thought Ebay was the "Great Satanic Paper Tiger"??? Robert Bastow J. Kimberlin wrote: > > Went to a machinery auction today in San Leandro, California. > The company going out of business was Plynetics, a rapid > prototyping company. The auctioneers were Ashman Company. > > I thought prices were rediculous and would like to know what > y'all think. > > Bridgeport mills $5000, not junk but still rather ordinary > Kurt 6" Angloc milling vises $175-$250 > 6" Baldor grinder on a nice pedestal $225 > roller cart with 24 CAT-40 tool holders $800 > 3 shop vacs $150 standard 35 gal size > Harig 6x18 surface grinder $5000 > > But for me the real item was the Sherline lathe, nothing special, > with a tool holder that went for $850. Was billed as a jewelers > lathe. Wasn't even cleaned up for the sale. > > I haven't been to an auction for a few years, but I didn't know > how far out of it I really was. > > JerryK ======== Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking Subject: Re: FS: Guy Lautard Stuff From: Robert Bastow Date: Thu, 25 Mar 1999 02:24:46 GMT -------- Lautard musta said sumpn' Huh? NJRich wrote: > > Best Greetings, > > I'm selling my Guy Lautard stuff. I'm selling it altogether for > $55. This includes: > > -Machinist Bedside Reader #1, #2 & #3 > -Hey Tim I Gotta Tell Ya > -Guy Lautard's Comprehensive Index to the above 4 books. > -The 90 minute video " A Visit With Guy Lautard and Bill Fenton. " > > The price includes shipping. Please email me if interested. > > Thanks, > > NJRich ======== Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking Subject: Re: Atlas lathe bearings From: Robert Bastow Date: Thu, 25 Mar 1999 02:30:04 GMT -------- Nearly got me there Grant! I was all set for a "You gotta be SH****N me!!!" Response. Then I read the last line! Robert Bastow Grant Erwin wrote: > > Simple! Put a sensitive sensor on the spindle, and filter the > data, then do a FFT on it and look for a dominant harmonic at > some integer number of the spindle speed. If there is a > prominent peak (like say at 12X spindle speed) well then you > have ball bearings with 12 balls! > > Just kidding, I only give answers like this to college professors! > > Grant Erwin > Seattle, Washington > > who has no idea - maybe if there's the capacity to oil the bearings > they aren't rollers? > > -- > Please don't 'reply', rather, mailto:grant_erwin@halcyon.com > as my 'reply-to' mailing address is anti-spammed. > > "J. Reid" wrote: > > > > I need to know how to tell if my Atlas 618 lathe has roller bearings or > > bronze, without trying to disassemble. I have an extra casting that could > > sell if it fits the rollers. Both castings have bored holes, not split, > > with oil cups on top. > > > > thanks > > > > J. M. Reid > > Issaquah WA ======== Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking Subject: Re: Resonance? From: Robert Bastow Date: Thu, 25 Mar 1999 02:40:48 GMT -------- It is commonly called "chatter" and your thrust bearings need attention. Robert Bastow (look out Mike...I'm after the title!!) Lathenut wrote: > > Hi, guys. Is this the correct term? I have, on more that one occasion, > experienced this problem. It happens almost always when I run the carriage in > reverse (toward the tailstock). I wind up with minute ridges equally spaced > along the workpiece. Can anyone tell me what causes this and what, if anything, > I can do about it? > Thanks in advance, Bill. ======== Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking Subject: Re: OT: Opinions regarding metal 'backstop' for indoor shooting From: Robert Bastow Date: Thu, 25 Mar 1999 00:48:16 -0500 -------- I would add some form of positive ventilation too Mike. With all those lead fumes in the basement..you don't want to finish up like me!! Robert Bastow Mike Graham wrote: > > I'm looking for opinions. > > I want to make a backstop, or 'target' for indoor shooting with a .22LR > (that might make it *on* topic, actually, given recent threads. 8-) > > My plan is to take a foot square chunk of 1/2" plate as the primary > backstop, and then surround this by a field of heavy sheet metal (1/8" or > so), and the sheet will be angled forwards, it won't just be flat. > > What I'm trying to avoid, here, is taking a ricochet between the eyes. 8-) > > A layer of easily-replaceable chip-board would coat the steel to dampen > rebounds. > > An alternate, but much heavier, idea, would be to use a 2' x 1' chunk of > 1/2" plate angled forward 45 degrees so that any bullet that hits it bounces > down into a bin of sand or something. > > I'm assuming that 1/2" plate will put up with a virtually unlimited number > of direct hits from a .22LR without injury. > > So what do you think? > > Is there a standard size of paper targets? > > -- > Mike Graham, mike@headwaters.com > Caledon, Ontario, Canada (just NW of Toronto). > > Raiser of animals. Weldor of metals. Driver of off-road vehicles. > Writer of FAQs. Keeper of the faith, and all around okay guy. > > ======== Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking Subject: Re: Sites for homebuilt shop equipment? From: Robert Bastow Date: Thu, 25 Mar 1999 00:55:53 -0500 -------- Try www.bloodyhardwork.com ;^) Sometimes it is better to buy these items. If you have to ask how to make them you are going to have a real hard time running the equipment you will need to even make a start on them. Robert Bastow BrinkWeld wrote: > > I would appreciate any links to sites that show how to build home shop > equipment such as disk sanders, shop/machinist vises, fixtures and the like. > Thanks in advance! > Bud ======== Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking Subject: Re: What am I doing wrong with threading tool? From: Robert Bastow Date: Thu, 25 Mar 1999 09:44:10 -0500 -------- Firstly, what gave you the idea that you should/could advance the tool into the workpiece without it rotating? Secondly, it is standard practice and usually acceptable to turn a narrow groove at the end of a thread..Called a "Landing Groove" It is equally permissible and very desireable to turn a similar grove when you are threading left to right. In which case it would be OK to call it a "Starting Grove" In either case, the tool is advanced into the work or the groove, with the spindle rotating but befor engaging the half-nuts. Unless of course you do not have disengageable half-nuts, or for some reason a groove is not desireable..In which case you have to, with the spindle stationary, first advance the tool to within a few thou of penetration, start the spindle, and advance the tool ASAP. This is left to right of course. Right to left, you have to ramp out the tool as it approaches the end of the thread and stop the spindle before you hit the shoulder!! A bit of fast and fancy handwork needed, and you might want to practice a bit at a slower speed. But can and is done all the time. Robert Bastow paul_probus@yahoo.com wrote: > OK, I haven't tried to thread with the carbide inserts I have (TT-221), but I > did try to turn down a piece going from left to right (headstock to > tailstock). When I advanced the tool into the piece (about .005"), while the > lathe was not turning, I snapped the point off the tool. Unless I'm missing > something, don't you have to advance the tool into the workpiece with the > spindle not turning? Other than making a groove, how can you advance the tool > without snapping off the point? Or can negative rake inserts take being > advanced into the work a short distance (is .005" short enough?) without > breaking? > > Performing the same operation, while the lathe was turning, I was able to > advance the tool into the piece without snapping the point. > > TIA, > Paul Probus > paul_probus@yahoo.com > > -----------== Posted via Deja News, The Discussion Network ==---------- > http://www.dejanews.com/ Search, Read, Discuss, or Start Your Own paul_probus@yahoo.com wrote: > > In article <36FAA5F7.10864F67@diabloresearch.com>, > mwarden@diabloresearch.com wrote: > > Sorry. I'll go stand in the corner... > > > > Sincerely, > > > > MarcW. > > > > Robert Bastow wrote: > > > > > There you go again Marc..shooting your mouth off!! > > > > > > Soon, we Girls will have NO secrets!! ;^) > > > > > > Robert Bastow > > > > > > Marc Warden wrote: > > > but where one needs to > > > > turn the part at a (relatively) high speed for finish, I've turned the > threading > > > > tool upside down and threaded from the headstock out towards the > tailstock. The > > > > threading tool is on the operator side of the part, just upside down. The > part > > > > must be turned in reverse. > > > > OK, I haven't tried to thread with the carbide inserts I have (TT-221), but I > did try to turn down a piece going from left to right (headstock to > tailstock). When I advanced the tool into the piece (about .005"), while the > lathe was not turning, I snapped the point off the tool. Unless I'm missing > something, don't you have to advance the tool into the workpiece with the > spindle not turning? Other than making a groove, how can you advance the tool > without snapping off the point? Or can negative rake inserts take being > advanced into the work a short distance (is .005" short enough?) without > breaking? > > Performing the same operation, while the lathe was turning, I was able to > advance the tool into the piece without snapping the point. > > TIA, > Paul Probus > paul_probus@yahoo.com > > -----------== Posted via Deja News, The Discussion Network ==---------- > http://www.dejanews.com/ Search, Read, Discuss, or Start Your Own ======== Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking Subject: Re: He's Ba-ack!!! From: Robert Bastow Date: Sat, 31 Jul 1999 14:14:42 -0400 -------- Hey, I missed youse guys!! Due to a screw-up in changing over to a new ISP I have been unable to receive the RCM for quite some time. However, that is now sorted and my withdrawal DT's, nausea, etc are assuaged!! Tell me what is new and exiting? On my front, I have completed my wooden subfloor in the basement workshop and am installling vinyl/asbestor tiles (excellent for the job) I have just installed my new (Used) Deckel FP1..an Ebay coup!! Have recently been building a couple of custom, English style, "Express Rifles" in .500 Jeffery and .505 Gibbs calibers. I hade to "Magnumize" a couple of standard Mauser 98 actions to handle these honkin' great shells!! Next project is tooling up the Deckel. Had a bad start there!! I bought a 12" Troyke Rotary table and had it shipped UPS. Large package arrives (24"x24"x12") In spite of red sticker warning "Heavy!! Weight 170lbs" the UPS man hands it to me with ONE HAND!! Inside, a bunch of Charlotte NC newspaper and the Troyke handwheel!! SH*T!!! The Deckel has horizontal and vertical spindles, both with 4MT tapers. First job is to make an adaptor sleeve so I can use my considerable collection of R8 tooling. Eventually this will be a semi-permanent installation of a hardened and gound-in-situ sleeve in each spindle bore. However, as a temporary expedient, I bought a cheap 4MT to 2MT adaptor sleeve, with soft body/hardened tang, from MSC. I plan to part off the tang end, wack it into the spindle, take out the quill, transfer to lathe and machine/grind the R8 configuration using the fixed steady and running the spindle in its own bearings. For those not familiar with the Deckel mill, Tony Griffiths Has som excellent pics on his web site. Glad to be Ba-ack! Robert Bastow ======== Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking Subject: Re: FS: Rolling Mill From: Robert Bastow Date: Sun, 01 Aug 1999 06:16:06 -0400 -------- Now that's JUST what I need for my Home Machine Shop!! Gives a whole new meaning to "roll your own" No more fighting the Atlanta traffic on a Friday afternoon dash (crawl!!) down to Metal Supermarket for the chunk of hot rolled I need for the weekend's project. As you didn't specify a price (an ABSOLUTE requirement if you wish to get anyone's serious attention hereabouts!!) but invite offers...here's mine: US$1.98 delivered CIF my back door. Robert Bastow EJOG wrote: > > For Sale ex UK Works:- > > United 90" 4 High Reversing Steel Rolling Mill. Work Roll 24.125" Dia. Back up > 46" Dia. with in and out roller feed tables and descaling unit. Available with > associated Furnaces, 2m x 100 mm Hot and 96" x 3" Cold Levelling Rolls, 3660 > mm x 32 mm Cross Shears, Roller and Transfer Tables etc.. > > Offers invited > Richard J Green, BA > - Machinery & Equipment Services Broker > Hexham, NE47 7JD, England. > Fax +44 1434 344247 ======== Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking Subject: Re: DC Motor From: Robert Bastow Date: Sun, 01 Aug 1999 13:25:10 -0400 -------- Hi Yourself Eddy, If you haven't already done so...Your first choice might be the drill press!! It is the ONLY machine in my shop where I feel a VS drive is REALLY justified. I just picked up a 90V DC drive on Ebay and am looking for a suitable motor to convert my drill press (Delta POS). I can't wait to get rid of the POS motor and the "wrasslin'" with dual vee belts every time I change drill size! Robert Bastow ewells@my-deja.com wrote: > > Hi List, (and you to TEENUT) > > I have an old DC Motor, that belonged to my Dad, and > am trying to find a use for it. > > It's a Baldor, frame 56, 1HP, 24VDC, and draws 42AMPS > at 2200RPM. Weights about 30 lbs..... > > Any Ideas?? > > Please don't say boat anchor.... > > Eddy Wells > Conroe,Texas > > Sent via Deja.com http://www.deja.com/ > Share what you know. Learn what you don't. ======== Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking Subject: Re: He's Ba-ack!!! From: Robert Bastow Date: Sun, 01 Aug 1999 13:31:51 -0400 -------- Very kind of you to say so. Thanks, Robert Bastow Don't force it...Use a bigger hammer!! Glenn Neff wrote: > > Welcome back I have missed you to :) > Glenn Neff > Medford OR ======== Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking Subject: Re: Electrical setup for Harbor Freight gearhead lathe? From: Robert Bastow Date: Sun, 01 Aug 1999 17:19:15 -0400 -------- Welcome to the real world!! If you REALLY ARE an Electrical Engineer, and someone else asked YOU that same question..Wouldn't you be the FIRST to advise him strongly to go wring it out for himself?? You are better qualified to do this than most people..and you have no excuse for not wanting to be 100% sure of every nuance and vagiary of electrical stuff that you yourself have paid good, hard cash for, are going to be poking about in, and running, (eventually) on a consistant basis. Or do I neeed to remind you, that that electrical sh*t can KILL you!! Robert Bastow Alan Mimms wrote: > > Hi folks, > > I just bought a new Harbor Freight lathe. It's their item number 33274 > - 12"x36" heavy duty geared head lathe. It was on sale ($1999 - sale > ends TOMORROW). I had a HELL of a time moving the >800lb lathe (and the > >600lb vertical mill I bought at the same time) down into my basement > shop, but that's all done now and my friend and I are mostly able to > walk again :->. > > Now I want to fire up the lathe. I had a 220V 30A circuit wired up with > a drop connector and have wired up the wire from the lathe. Before > I plugged it in, I checked the wiring diagram to see if it came wired > for 220V or 110V. Apparently it comes wired for NEITHER, although the > panel lamps are powered from a conservatively wired transformer lashup > wired for 220. (If you plug it into 110, you just get half-brightness > lamps. If you wire it to 220, they're full brightness.) > > The problem is the wiring diagram and "explanation" that comes with it. > The book refers to various terminal block connections like U1, U2, V1, > V2, Z1 and Z2. Unfortunately, one of the terminals I need to wire up > (according to the little diagram) labelled "V1" is NOT PRESENT on the > terminal block or on the schematic diagram. There is no terminal block > with no label, no likely candidates of any kind that I could check out > to be sure. I would like to avoid buzzing out all of the wires to see > how they actually are wired to find where V1 is supposed to be. I am an > electrical engineering major - I know something about electronics - but > this is OPAQUE stuff. > > Has anyone done the electrical wireup for this lathe before? I suppose > I can try calling Harbor Freight, but I expect them to be pretty hard to > get any info out of. The tool is made at the Shaoxing Machine Tool > Works in China and the manual is pretty hard to understand. It has a > lot of grammatical difficulties and a lot of references to non-US style > of engineering terms and abbreviations. > > Thanks for any help. > alan ======== Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking Subject: Re: Hendey Machine tools From: Robert Bastow Date: Sun, 01 Aug 1999 17:42:23 -0400 -------- Bearing in mind that this is a REC CRAFTS metalworking group ie for recreational rather than "working" machinists, I would argue a strong case for choosing the shaper as a first machine..rather than a mill. I have just aquired a Deckel FP1 for my home shop..the realisation of a lifelong dream!! However, the 8" Boxford shaper came FIRST, and takes pride of place beside the Deckel. It has many projects planned ahead for it, that the Deckel CAN"T do and if, GOD FORBID, I was reduced to having to choose to keep one or the other, there is absolutely no doubt in my mind that I would choose to keep the SHAPER!! So far as your own PROFESSIONAL shop is concerned...you know your own business requirements. However I too, have had a LOT of experience in owning and running Professional, high precision jobbing shops. I always made sure I had a shaper on hand..and from time to time it was a LIFESAVER!! I guess the other, unsaid point is YOU HAVE TO KNOW HOW TO USE, (I mean REALLY use) A SHAPER, TO TRULY APPRECIATE ITS VALUE! Robert "The Metal Shifter" Bastow Yasmiin wrote: > > Hi, > > Well I can't defend the practicality of a shaper in a modem shop -- the > shaper, ======== Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking Subject: Re: flat belt >> multi-V belt From: Robert Bastow Date: Sun, 01 Aug 1999 18:03:02 -0400 -------- Conversion to Poly-Vee belt drive, from flat belt or Vee belt drive is one of the most worthwhile HSM Projects!! In most cases the machine is TRANSFORMED!!...Quieter, better balanced, more efficient and capable of taking muck heavier cuts than before. (This latter assumes that the original metal, design and bearings are up to snuff) Robert Bastow ken mayer wrote: > > Does anyone have experience using a multi-rib belt in place of a plain > flat belt? I'm thinking of modifying my Logan 11x36 to use a 10-rib "J" > belt in place of the flat one. Any suggestions, comments, precautions, > etc? > > -- > > Ken > :-) ======== Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking Subject: Re: TIG welder question From: Robert Bastow Date: Sun, 01 Aug 1999 18:09:45 -0400 -------- I just Got me a Lincoln Square Wave 175. Price was VERY reasonable and the more I use it the more I like it..real "weld a wing on a gnat" stuff. Two thumbs up from me. Robert Bastow Georgina Bourke wrote: > > I am going to in the near future invest in a Tig welder. > Does anyone know of any good sites for info about them? > other than do a search. > I live in Australia so the overseas brands may not be available here. > I need one that can weld S/S and Al but not together, I believe that one > requires AC current and the other DC abd also the ability to be able to > reverse the polarity. > Any and all assistance is most welcome > Thanks in advance > -- > Kindest Regards > Wayne. > Metal Work Page http://modelengines.freeservers.com/ > Model IC Club page http://www.clubs.yahoo.com/clubs/modelicengines ======== Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking Subject: Re: kaowool From: Robert Bastow Date: Sun, 01 Aug 1999 18:13:46 -0400 -------- Try the knifemakers list Used to be several regular contributors willing to supply smaller quantities of Kaowool and the IPC 100 to line it with. tom wrote: > > I am hunting for a source for Kaowool, can anyone help? > > Thanks > Tom Black > vango@hiwaay.net ======== Newsgroups: alt.engineering,alt.rec.crafts.metalworking,rec.crafts.metalworking,alt.autos,alt.railroad.steam Subject: Re: The car of the future: why not use steam? From: Robert Bastow Date: Mon, 02 Aug 1999 04:57:58 -0400 -------- "Sometimes it is better to remain silent and be thought a fool, than to open your mouth and remove all possible doubt" Go research Doble and Stanley Steamer and thn come back and apologise!! Teenut James W. Swonger wrote: > > In article <37a3733c.1898675@news.erols.com>, > wrote: > >The car of the future: why not use steam? > > > ... (snippage) ... > > > >Surprise, we had them over 60 years ago. With a few updates, > >the Stanley Steamer, an auto design that goes back to 1918, > >could be the zero-emission car of tomorrow. I've read that the > >Stanley Steamer could go over 120 miles per hour, and could run > >on any fuel that would create a flame hot enough to boil water. > > > >The combustion chamber in the boiler can be designed to > >accommodate any combustible substance. The fuel is burned > >clean, producing no more pollution then a household gas > >heater. The steam cars of yesteryear used inexpensive fuel > >oil or kerosene. For even less pollution, wood alcohol or > >the new bio-diesel fuels being developed by the Department > >of Energy could be used. A properly designed burner system > >could burn a variety of fuels by using an oxygen sensor in > >the exhaust to control the proper fuel air mixture. That > >means as prices change over time, your car could always use > >the cheapest fuel available. > > > >But would steam cars be durable and reliable? How about this > >for reliable; A Doble model E14 steam car produced in 1923 > >was driven over 600,000 miles requiring only normal > >maintenance! That's even better than a Volvo can do! The > >Doble cars required no more maintenance then their internal > >combustion counterparts. Other Dobles are known to have > >traveled over 200,000 miles having only routine oil and tire > >changes. Try getting that out of any 1999 American or Japanese car! > > > >With all these advantages, and with no real cost for new > >research, the major car companies would be recklessly > >wasting their stockholders money not to use steam as > >the automobile power source of the Twenty-First Century. > >DaimlerChrysler could save that $1.4 billion and put it > >into dividends for its shareholders. Think about that, investors! > > Now, I'm a fan of steam power and all, but this seems like > a lot of hyperventilating. > > Paragraph 2, all full of "could/can be designed/developed", > and then paragraph 4, "no real cost for research". Just a > little bit of dissonance there. Stick to one story at a time, > it's more believable. > > I've seen two steam powered automobiles up close. Neither > of them would be saleable today. The Guvmint aside, nobody's > going to buy a car with a warm-up time of 1/4 - 1/2 hour, > or with a boiler prone to developing leaks (like the Stanley). > The other one I saw had, I'd guess, a few HP of power, chain > drive (less stout than my motorcycle). How much power do > you get out of a double-action, 1" bore x 1' stroke cylinder? > Top speed is one thing, but you'd best get there within the > space of an on-ramp. At least it had a roof.... > > If you want widespread acceptance, you need closed cycle > operation. That means a pretty big radiator and even so, not- > so-hot efficiency. You need flash boilers with very high > efficiency and flow, to get the performance and the size > envelope consistent with an auto. Got one handy? Didn't > think so. Somebody's going to have to "recklessly waste" > some money getting that perfected. And a bit more making > sure that less than one in a million fails in such a manner > as to make the evening news. > > Show me, not a bunch of secondhand images and rambling > technopolitical goo, but a functioning, 100MPH, <10sec > 0-60, 30MPG{pick your liquid fuel}, crashworthy and > yes, I want a trunk, vehicle. How about starting with > a 20HP steam powerplant with no hidden wires that would > even fit? > > -- > ########################################################################## > #Irresponsible rantings of the author alone. Any resemblance to persons # > #living or dead then yer bummin. May cause drowsiness. Alcohol may inten-# > #sify this effect. Pay no attention to the man behind the curtain. Billy!# ======== Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking Subject: Re: Cleaning Files From: Robert Bastow Date: Mon, 02 Aug 1999 05:39:33 -0400 -------- The file cleaner doesn't need to be as soft as brass or copper!! Remember that files are "Dead Hard"...60-62 Rockwell!! My file "comber" is a strip of 16Ga Mild steel, 3/4" wide. It is so successful that it now sports a custom turned cherry wood handle with a chic polished brass ferrule and occupies acoveted slot in my file rack. By The Way..The old saw about chalking files to prevent "pinning" is the biggest heap of "dump" ever perpertated on unsuspecting metal shifters. I also recall reading a couple of times that a file, ""contaminated with oil would never cut again!! BOLOGNA!!!!! A file is a CUTTING TOOL!! A Linear Broach!!! A "flat" Milling Cutter!! I spray my files with WD40..Before, during, and after "filing for effect" Not only does it prevent rusting (the file's biggest enemy)..BUT...It almost totally eliminates pinning, promotes easy, fast and smooth cutting..AND..With a bit of practice, leaves a surface finish that rivals that of surface grinding!! HUH!!??? Go get yourself a new, SHARP, file of good quality..Nicholson, Grobet, American-Swiss... Treat it like GOLD!! (Hey...Try MAKING one!!) Break it in for a coupla years, filing only Non-Ferrous materials. Spray with WD40 and get down to some SERIOUS filing...Say a double rifle action body from solid steel..."Striking" (draw filing) a set of Purdey barrels...Sinking, fettling and detailing a mold cavity before handing off to the Polishers.... When finishing, wipe the file with the ball of your thumb, against the "cut", every few strokes. Brush the file clean and re-spray every dozen or so...Enjoy a new dimension in metal smithing!! Brush her down, spray her down, and "Put her up wet!!" I other words, treat your files like any other precision tool in your shop. Learn the skills and the art of filing... The back wall of my bench sports a rack of over fifty files..some as old as I am???? They get a daily workout and good treatment..They will see my lifetime out..and a couple more generations too..if handled right! PS.. Thinking about it. I do not recall EVER, walking into a store and actually BUYING a file!! The hundred plus I have, have just been "Accumulated" over the years!! Curious Huh? Teenut ppierce wrote: > > Kevin Pinkerton wrote: > > > > On Sun, 1 Aug 1999 16:13:44 -0400, "xray" wrote: > > > > >I have a few favorite files that I use ....... > > ........ How can I get my files really clean. > > > Hi Dave. Here is a method that works for me: > > > > Take a larger caliber rifle shell (fired of course) such as a .243 > > If you don't have access to a large caliber rifle casing, get a piece of > copper tubing and flatten it. Either clean the files or make a soft > jaw for your vise. > > -- > Paul in AJ AZ, NRA Endowment Member MSC stockholder (150 shares) > Checkout http://www.dejanews.com > also("Dropbox")http://www.metalworking.com > Checkout (MWN)the Metal Web News at: http://www.mindspring.com/~wgray1/ > Checkout the FAQ at: http://w3.uwyo.edu/~metal ======== Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking Subject: Re: Electrical setup for Harbor Freight gearhead lathe? From: Robert Bastow Date: Mon, 02 Aug 1999 05:48:48 -0400 -------- This from an Electrical Engineering Major?? Send for the local "Sparky"!!! Don't touch the machine again 'til he says it's okay! Teenut Alan Mimms wrote: > FYI I DID try it in a chickensh*t way. I poked the START button and > NOTHING happened. No hum, no dimming or change in the one panel light, no other > lights lit, etc. ======== Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking Subject: Re: DC Motor From: Robert Bastow Date: Mon, 02 Aug 1999 05:53:46 -0400 -------- You need an electric motor for this?? ;^) Teenut Gerry Einarsson wrote: me effortlessly guiding (----------) into the exact spot picked > by the wife - you know , just a little to the left, no. no, that's too > far, just a little back now...... > > Cheers > > Gerry ======== Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking Subject: Re: TIG welder question From: Robert Bastow Date: Mon, 02 Aug 1999 06:15:42 -0400 -------- $1100.00 I phoned the local distibutor and he said "$1000.00...Special Deal" Went down there and the Manager said " Mistake!! Mistake!!..It is $1200.00" Threatened to punch the pair of them out and all parties concerned were happy to settle at the mid-point! Lovely machine. Most of my welding is gunsmithing. "Magnum Mauser action Sir? Certainly Sir!" Take two standard 98 actions, cut 'em in two..one "long"..One "short". Take the two long bits, align on a mandrel, tig weld 'em together and clean up. Repeat with bolt and fireng pin. Make new "bottom metal" from solid steel. Voila! $1500 to $4500 Magnum Mauser action!!) (Description a bit over-simplified..Do not attempt this in your living room!!) Point is..weld integrity, minimised extraneous heating and cosmetics are all vital factors. This machine is like an artist's paintbrush!! Teenut Rex the Wrench wrote: > > Robert, > > I was just at my local welding supply house, looking at TIG machines. > They recommended the Square Wave 175 very highly. Might I ask what > you paid for yours? > > Thanx, > > Rex the Wrench > > Robert Bastow wroted: > > > > I just Got me a Lincoln Square Wave 175. Price was VERY reasonable and the more > > I use it the more I like it..real "weld a wing on a gnat" stuff. > > > > Two thumbs up from me. > > > > Robert Bastow ======== Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking Subject: Re: kaowool From: Robert Bastow Date: Mon, 02 Aug 1999 06:17:35 -0400 -------- What are "Pectates"?? Teenut Stan Stocker wrote: > > Kaowool is an insulating blanket material that is used to line > furnaces. It is lighter in weight and easier to work with then castable > refractory. I don't know about its life in a melting furnace for steel > or CI, but it seems to hold up well in aluminum furnaces. > > Jack Erbes comments about their pectates is a classic though! > > Stan. > > David Berryhill wrote: > > > >> > > >> I am hunting for a source for Kaowool, can anyone help? > > >> > > >> Thanks > > >> Tom Black > > >> vango@hiwaay.net > > > > What is Kaowool? > > > > Dave Berryhill ======== Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking Subject: Re: No Used Chinese Tools! From: Robert Bastow Date: Mon, 02 Aug 1999 06:27:17 -0400 -------- Hey Pete! For a guy who boasts of his prowess as an Ebay vendor you musta made an awful lot of "small mistakes" ;^) Robert Bastow Who has no complaints about Ebay in general, and Pete in particular!! PLAlbrecht wrote: > "Ebay -- where your small mistakes > turn into somebody else's bigger ones!" > > Pete ======== Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking Subject: Re: Ted Edwards Walk [OT] From: Robert Bastow Date: Mon, 02 Aug 1999 06:37:15 -0400 -------- Hey Mike an' Fitch, What kinda metal are these here "Tolts" made of?? Teenut (Who warned you he was ba-ak!!) Mike Graham wrote: > > On Sun, 01 Aug 1999 19:51:19 GMT, Fitch R. Williams wrote: > > Is the tolt a clean tolt? One of ours has a trot tolt, and it's going to > take a lot of work to clean it up. ======== Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking Subject: Re: Belt Sander Question From: Robert Bastow Date: Mon, 02 Aug 1999 06:46:58 -0400 -------- Yup! It's a "piece of string" question. However, to attempt a response..Slower than you might think! That is to say, high belt speed is great when it works well, but the invariable answer to most of the (Many) problems you may encounter, is to "slow it down". My 960 Burr King is probably the most used machine in the shop..The motor I chose is 18xx rev/min rather than 36xx. It might be a little slower when "Hogging"..but I really enjoy the added control when finishing. Georgina Bourke wrote: > > Hi all > I have acquired a 240v,1.5HP 2850 RPM electric motor and wish to build a > belt sander. > My question is what is the safest, most effective rate in FPM that a sanding > belt can be run at? or is this like asking how long is a piece of string > (too many variables). > Thanks in advance > Australian > -- > Kindest Regards > Wayne. > Metal Work Page http://modelengines.freeservers.com/ ======== Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking Subject: Re: VARIAC From: Robert Bastow Date: Mon, 02 Aug 1999 07:02:53 -0400 -------- Think of it as a sophisticated variable resistor..A big light dimmer!! Used to control motor speeds etc. Teenut Thomas R. Csibor wrote: > > Can someone educate me on what a VARIAC is and what are its uses. > > Thanks > Tom. ======== Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking Subject: Re: Tool Cleaning From: Robert Bastow Date: Mon, 02 Aug 1999 12:10:02 -0400 -------- Vinegar with a dash of salt. CocaCola works too..but it ruins the flavor!! Robert Bastow DMI wrote: > > I've recently acquired a large quantity of used tooling. (Mills & drills). > Some of the tooling is in excellent cutting shape but are somewhat dirty and > rusty. What is the best way to clean and restore the finish on these tools ? > > Thanks > Tom. ======== Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking Subject: Re: Another 3 phase question... From: Robert Bastow Date: Mon, 02 Aug 1999 12:32:40 -0400 -------- And yet another!! I recently installed a Deckel FP1 mill which is driven by a 3PH 2 speed motor of 1.25/1.75HP. Parsimonious as my Yorkshire backgroud demands, I decided to buy a static converter kit from Cedarberg ($150 via MSC) and spend the money saved over a rotary converter on much desired tooling for the Deckel!! WRONG!!!! Although the unit is rated at 3 to 5HP it will not start the Dekel under full load..ie with spindle and feed gears engaged. It has difficulty starting the unloaded motor, especially in low speed. Once the motor is up to speed it runs well..but uselessly!! You can't change or engage gears with the motor running. I also suspect that the motor is pulling a high current as, often, on attempting to start up, it will throw an overload breaker in the panel. The solution to that seems to be to give the rear mounted countershaft handwheel a tug befor turning on the juice. An altogether unsatisfactory state of affairs! Possible solutions that come to mind: A) Buy a used 5HP motor and use that as an "Electrical flywheel" in series with the Deckel motor. Question. Does a large 3PH motor, started with a static converter come anywhere close to being a proper roary converter? B) Use the components of the Static converter to build a "Proper" rotary converter..can this be done? C) Bite the bullet and go buy a good quality rotary converter.. Any one want to buy a (cheap) static converter is "as new" condition???? Robert Bastow ======== Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking Subject: Re: TIG welder question From: Robert Bastow Date: Mon, 02 Aug 1999 12:38:59 -0400 -------- But I don't WANT two rifles in 7 x anything!! I want ONE rifle in 505 Gibbs and there is NO WAY to squeeze that BUFF into a standard length action!! Jack Erbes wrote: > > Robert Bastow wrote: > > "Magnum Mauser action Sir? Certainly Sir!" > > > > Take two standard 98 actions, cut 'em in two..one "long"..One "short". > > Or take the same two actions, don't cut them up, chamber two barrels for > the 7x61 S&H, and have twice as many rifles. > > I think Misters Sharpe and Hart had existing actions in mind when they > created that cartridge. And I have found it will outperform the 7 mm > Rem Mag almost across the board with better velocities at lower > pressures with less powder. > > -- > Jack in Sonoma, CA, USA (jack@vom.com) ======== Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking Subject: Re: Help--ww collets From: Robert Bastow Date: Mon, 02 Aug 1999 12:48:04 -0400 -------- A) Try Ebay..usually lots of top name brands there. Not cheap and you may have to buy several in sizes you will never need. B) Buy new ones from Levin, Hardinge, Derbyshire etc. Their prices will give you a nose bleed...but if you only need one or two specific sizes..That would be my recommendation. C) Tell us the sizes you need..you MIGHT get lucky!! Robert Bastow chuggers wrote: > > I've got some real small work to do and need the most accurate ww > collets I can find. Any ideas? > > -- > J.B. Neiswander > > Sent via Deja.com http://www.deja.com/ > Share what you know. Learn what you don't. ======== Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking Subject: Re: VARIAC From: Robert Bastow Date: Mon, 02 Aug 1999 12:52:55 -0400 -------- That will teach me to keep my big yap shut on subjects I know nothing about. As my last post indicates..that includes ANYTHING electrical..beyond changing a light bulb!! Suitably chastened!! Robert Bastow Jesse Brennan wrote: > > In article <37A57ADD.88E93B96@hotmail.com>, Robert says... > > > >Think of it as a sophisticated variable resistor..A big light dimmer!! Used to > >control motor speeds etc. > > > >Teenut > > > >Thomas R. Csibor wrote: > >> > >> Can someone educate me on what a VARIAC is and what are its uses. > >> > >> Thanks > >> Tom. > They are not a variable resistor. > Its an auto transformer with a variable secondary winding. > They consist of a single winding on an iron core. The line is connected accross > most of the coil and a variable tap is run along the same winding. Part of the > taped section is longer than the primary setting so you can get higher outlet > voltages than input voltage as well as lower outlet voltages. > The secondary is across the line and there is no isolation protection. > I hope this isn't too confusing. > Jesse ======== Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking Subject: Re: Cleaning Files From: Robert Bastow Date: Mon, 02 Aug 1999 12:58:53 -0400 -------- Bring all the BIG friends you got!! I will not surrender my files 'til they pry them from my cold,dead hands!! Teenut Who once knocked a horse flat on its a$$..."with a crashing blow from a huge right hand"** ** Quoted from the words of "Big John" mledtje@my-deja.com wrote: > > In article <37A56755.B7002225@hotmail.com>, > teenutNOSPAM@hotmail.com wrote: > > > > Thinking about it. I do not recall EVER, walking into a store and > actually > > BUYING a file!! The hundred plus I have, have just been > "Accumulated" over the > > years!! Curious Huh? > > > I always wondered where my files went. > > I'm coming over there with my buddy and we are going to get my files > back!!!!!!!! > > Mike > > Sent via Deja.com http://www.deja.com/ > Share what you know. Learn what you don't. ======== Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking Subject: Re: Removing a chuck From: Robert Bastow Date: Mon, 02 Aug 1999 13:24:15 -0400 -------- Go ahead and drill it out Mike...Nothing to hurt in there...except the point of your drill as you break through and hit the Hardened Mandrel Robert Mike Graham wrote: > > On 2 Aug 1999 15:04:01 GMT, ken mayer wrote: > > >Use a heat gun on the back of the chuck to get it nice and warm. Dip the > >arbor into icewater to shrink it. Then, without delay, use the punch to > >knock the arbor out. My chucks have a fairly large through hole , so I > >just snug a 3/8" bolt in its jaws and smack the bolt head down against > >the vise. The arbor pops out every time. > > I'm toying with the idea of drilling the 1/8" hole out to 1/4" or so. The > only thing holding me back is that it's a Jacob's Superchuck, and I just > bought it a few months ago. I can't think of anything that would be hurt by > the process, but that doesn't mean there isn't. > > -- > Mike Graham, mikegraham at sprint dot ca > Caledon, Ontario, Canada (just NW of Toronto). > > Raiser of animals. Weldor of metals. Driver of off-road vehicles. > Writer of FAQs. Keeper of the faith, and all around okay guy. > > < homepage currently off-line due to change of ISP; back soon > ======== Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking Subject: Re: Another 3 phase question... From: Robert Bastow Date: Mon, 02 Aug 1999 13:25:37 -0400 -------- How much does one of THOSE cost??? Randy O'Brian wrote: > > D) The obvious solution: a 5 Hp variable freq. drive, even if you don't > think the variable speed feature is needed. However, once you get it, I'll > bet you will use it.:-) > > Randy ======== Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking Subject: Re: Another 3 phase question... From: Robert Bastow Date: Mon, 02 Aug 1999 16:37:03 -0400 -------- In anticipation of this requirement..I went out and bought a 5HP motor today, cost me $100.00. Pus I got a single phase contactor and a push button start/stop unit. The only motors I could find are 3450 rev/min so that will have to do for now. Please explain "run caps" What value do I need, where do I find them, how are they wired in and what do they cost? Grant Erwin wrote: > > This seems simple. Add a cheap 3ph idler motor (~5hp) plus a couple > of run caps. Let the static converter start the idler. Then you can > just start/stop your machine normally. > > In my viewpoint, a static convertor plus an idler motor plus run caps > IS a rotary converter. > > Grant Erwin > > Robert Bastow wrote: > > > > And yet another!! > > > > I recently installed a Deckel FP1 mill which is driven by a 3PH 2 speed motor of > > 1.25/1.75HP. > > > > Parsimonious as my Yorkshire backgroud demands, I decided to buy a static > > converter kit from Cedarberg ($150 via MSC) and spend the money saved over a > > rotary converter on much desired tooling for the Deckel!! > > > > WRONG!!!! > > > > Although the unit is rated at 3 to 5HP it will not start the Dekel under full > > load..ie with spindle and feed gears engaged. It has difficulty starting the > > unloaded motor, especially in low speed. Once the motor is up to speed it runs > > well..but uselessly!! You can't change or engage gears with the motor running. > > > > I also suspect that the motor is pulling a high current as, often, on attempting > > to start up, it will throw an overload breaker in the panel. The solution to > > that seems to be to give the rear mounted countershaft handwheel a tug befor > > turning on the juice. > > > > An altogether unsatisfactory state of affairs! > > > > Possible solutions that come to mind: > > > > A) Buy a used 5HP motor and use that as an "Electrical flywheel" in series with > > the Deckel motor. > > > > Question. Does a large 3PH motor, started with a static converter come anywhere > > close to being a proper roary converter? > > > > B) Use the components of the Static converter to build a "Proper" rotary > > converter..can this be done? > > > > C) Bite the bullet and go buy a good quality rotary converter.. > > > > Any one want to buy a (cheap) static converter is "as new" condition???? > > > > Robert Bastow ======== Newsgroups: alt.engineering,alt.rec.crafts.metalworking,rec.crafts.metalworking,alt.autos Subject: Re: The car of the future: why not use steam? From: Robert Bastow Date: Tue, 03 Aug 1999 18:08:31 -0400 -------- Hey! I resemble that remark too!! Ain't got no Granny no more..But I ain't poor either! Go find another minority to pick on..How 'bout these Chinee guys that keep posting here. It might be harder to offend them..But I bet you can do it if anyone can!! Teenut ewells@my-deja.com wrote: > > HEY MATTY BOB! > > I RESENT that!! > > Why has it got to be Us Red Necks??? AN! We got grandmommas > to(too,also)you know!! > > You coulda used Polak lak they do up North or maybe onea > them guys like Ol'e TeeNut....(Ain't he from England or > somewhere?) By the way....Somea us ain't POOR!! > > Eddy(LOL)Wells > Conroe,Texas > > > less the occasional oil change? An 80-year-old grandmother who only > > drives to church on Sunday? Can't you see a poor redneck driving one > of > > these things that hasn't been mantained in years being launched into > the > > stratosphere because of a blocked water feed pipe? The personal injury > > > -- > > -Matt Conrad, jmconrad@InfoAve.net - http://web.infoave.net/~jmconrad > > All opinions expressed above are my own and do not represent the > > opinion of any organization I belong to or work for. > > Copyright 1999 Matt Conrad. Do not print or forward. > > > > Sent via Deja.com http://www.deja.com/ > Share what you know. Learn what you don't. ======== Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking Subject: Re: duplicating a lathe From: Robert Bastow Date: Wed, 04 Aug 1999 10:29:05 -0400 -------- Theoretically you can..It will take a LO-ONG time and your main product will be chips...The lathe will be a By-Product!! Robert Bastow Allan Adler wrote: > > I have heard and read frequently that a lathe can duplicate itself. > Is there a book that actually explains in detail how to do that? > Is any metal casting involved? > > Can I also conclude from that assertion that if I build a Gingery > lathe out of aluminum, I can use it to build an otherwise identical > lathe out of steel without having to cast any steel? > > Allan Adler > ara@altdorf.ai.mit.edu > > Disclaimer: I am a guest and *not* a member of the MIT Artificial Intelligence > Lab. My actions and comments do not reflect in any way on MIT. > Morever, I am nowhere near the Boston metropolitan area. ======== Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking Subject: Re: Building a puller, UNF or UNC thread? From: Robert Bastow Date: Wed, 04 Aug 1999 11:09:12 -0400 -------- Thanks for a very erudite explanation of the relative mechanical advantage of fine vs coarse threads and the min/max length to use. (take note all designers who insist on spec'ing 4-40 threads tapped 3/8" deep in titanium etc!!!) One point I would take issue with is that...'though the THREADFORM of fine vs coarse presents, in theory an equal shear length in male and female combined, and are as you state..Of equal strength..This is not the usual form of failure. For threads engaged to a depth of 1.5D or greater, the CORE will shear radially, before the threads shear axially. Therefore the CORE diameter enters the equation as a factor of "Strength" Finer thread = larger core dia = "stronger" So, given the greater mechanical advantage and greater "Strength" of a fine thread..It is hardly surprising that these are used on thread pullers and such. Teenut Bob & Marilyn Tonkins wrote: > > Re: Coarse-vs-Fine threads for pullers. > Neither of the thread forms is "stronger" IF by that you mean capable > of holding under more tension. What IS better about the finer thread is > that it gives you more leverage. A thread is an inclined plane, a wedge, > and the finer the slope (the thread) the more leverage you have. ======== Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking Subject: Re: ..woodcutting with a mill? From: Robert Bastow Date: Wed, 04 Aug 1999 11:17:08 -0400 -------- As a further aside...NEVER machine Oak on any machine tool you value. The tannic acid in the chips will blacken every exposed surface in a heartbeat!! If you are tempted to make an oak tool box..a la Gerstner etc...DO make sure you thoroughly seal the INSIDE as well as the outside surfaces. Teenut Kevin Pinkerton wrote: > > On Tue, 03 Aug 1999 15:01:27 GMT, silvr@pilot.infi.net (Jim Waggener) > wrote: > > >I have a project where I need to cut a handle out of ebony. > >I can rough cut the shape but would like to do the finishing on a > >small mill. Can someone suggest what end mill would be best > >to use on ebony? > > As a side note. I have been warned that you need to make sure you > clean up all the wood chips/dust real well after turning/milling wood > on metalworking equipment. The wood tends to collect condensation and > can be a source of extra rust. > > Kevin > > My Gun Page: http://extra.newsguy.com/~kpinkert/ ======== Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking Subject: Re: 1917 RAILROAD LOCOMOTIVE MANUAL FOR AUCTON. From: Robert Bastow Date: Wed, 04 Aug 1999 14:07:55 -0400 -------- Speak for yourself, don't presume to speak for me, or other members of this list...Certainly not in that tone of voice! I, personally, don't mind items of interest to this group being brought to my attention! The original post was two lines of useful information. Your post was half a page of useless invective! Get off my bandwidth and get a LIFE!! Robert Bastow Judy Swinney wrote: > > Muck, > An appropriate name, I dare say! Why should I check into this auction and > find it has 8 more days to run? It would only aggravate me, especially if I > wanted to make to make a fair price, maximum bid, only to find out at the > very last minute, some shark would come in with an extremely high bid and > grab the article. You're doing no one on this news group any sort of a > service by advertising what you're selling on E-bay. I could research the > same book on Amazon.com and probably find it at a fair price -- and not be > frustrated by having to frequently check your auction on E-bay, only to find > that some S.O.B. with more money than brains could steal it at the last > minute! Why don't you place your thinly disguised display of total greed on > some other forum and not insult the intelligence of the decent and > fair-minded participants of this one? > Bob Swinney > > muck wrote in message <37a7f389.4174555@news>... > >LOOK AT: > >http://www.evansville.net/~doug/listings.html ======== Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking Subject: Re: 1917 RAILROAD LOCOMOTIVE MANUAL FOR AUCTON. From: Robert Bastow Date: Wed, 04 Aug 1999 14:13:24 -0400 -------- I feel the problem here is that you are too cheap to pay the going rate for something you want!! Ebay has been satisfactory source for me for many items. Know what you are buying and be prepared to pay your assessed value, not a penny more. Judy Swinney wrote: > > Fred, > That's precisely the problem - if I do want a RR book and find it advertised > on this news group for sale on E-bay, then my frustration begins, for I know > there is a very slim, read that almost none, chance of getting it on E-bay. > On the other hand, I do kinda appreciate being reminded of what's for > sale -- so I can look elsewhere. > > Bob Swinney > > fred veenschoten wrote in message <7o9r2t$7to$1@nntp9.atl.mindspring.net>... > >hey lighten up. I appreciate people letting us know what's for sale. if you > >don't want a RR book don't click on the posting. you sound like the > tv/movie > >censors who want to dictate to the rest of us what we should have available > >to us. > >fred > > > >Judy Swinney wrote in message ... > >>Muck, > >>An appropriate name, I dare say! Why should I check into this auction and > >>find it has 8 more days to run? It would only aggravate me, especially if > >I > >>wanted to make to make a fair price, maximum bid, only to find out at the > >>very last minute, some shark would come in with an extremely high bid and > >>grab the article. You're doing no one on this news group any sort of a > >>service by advertising what you're selling on E-bay. I could research the > >>same book on Amazon.com and probably find it at a fair price -- and not be > >>frustrated by having to frequently check your auction on E-bay, only to > >find > >>that some S.O.B. with more money than brains could steal it at the last > >>minute! Why don't you place your thinly disguised display of total greed > >on > >>some other forum and not insult the intelligence of the decent and > >>fair-minded participants of this one? > >>Bob Swinney > >> > >>muck wrote in message <37a7f389.4174555@news>... > >>>LOOK AT: > >>>http://www.evansville.net/~doug/listings.html > >> > >> > > > > ======== Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking Subject: Re: flat belt >> multi-V belt From: Robert Bastow Date: Wed, 04 Aug 1999 15:50:53 -0400 -------- Hi Veronica..Small world isn't it. The type of belt Tony sells is probably a modern composite that has a leather facing...excellent stuff. Far better than plain leather belting because it does not stretch. However, the degree of tension required to get the best performance out of modern, composite, flat belts, is way more than most older pulley and headstock bearings can take. That being the case I would expect poly-vee belts to give the better performance on older machines. Robert Bastow Veronica Parsons wrote: > > Fancy meeting you here Robert :) > > Robert Bastow wrote: > > > Conversion to Poly-Vee belt drive, from flat belt or Vee belt drive is one of > > the most worthwhile HSM Projects!! > > I agree with this. It does make a difference. > > Sometime ago I had some info from a UK suppilier of a flat belt replacement > material > that looked good but I never (still haven't) got round to getting some. You have > to have > it cut to length by them and need a special tool to join it in place which I seem > to remember > was borrowable. However, this was some time ago. > > The contact is Tony Griffiths . Perhaps if Tony is around he > would > kindly post some details. > > Veronica ======== Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking Subject: Re: Newbie lathe question From: Robert Bastow Date: Wed, 04 Aug 1999 16:03:03 -0400 -------- Using the regular 3 or 4 jaw chuck will cover most of the milling you want to do. A 5MT to 5c or R8 collet adaptor can be made right on the lathe itself. 5c collets are available new and used in a huge variety of sizes and, as such would be first choice for turning applications. For milling purposes you will find the R8 type collet gets a better grip on the cutter, however I, personally have used 5c collets for milling with (generally) satisfactory results. Teenut appleseed wrote: > > I would like to set my lathe up to do some light milling work, > however, I don't know what kind of setup to use for my spindle to hold > the end mill. What I do know is that I have a 5MT internal taper for > the headstock spindle. What can I buy/make to hold my endmill? > Any help would be greatly appreciated. > > Thanks. ======== Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking Subject: Re: Bolts & Other STANDARDS From: Robert Bastow Date: Wed, 04 Aug 1999 21:58:23 -0400 -------- At Last voices of reason!!!!! Mind you, better keep your heads down! I remember what happened, in the middle of the last Curvature of the Earth/Flatness to millionths/granite v/sscraped steel debate, when I suggested that a bit of good float glass, a table saw top or even a good bit of formica topped kitchen counter would produce a flat enough reference for 99% of what most model engineers/home shop machinists could ever need!! Now people will come back and say they regularly work to "tenths" and to them I issue this warning...You had better be able to back it up with recently, independently calibrated, traceable standards and you had better be able to prove that all your work is done in an air conditioned, temperature controlled, clean room! 'Cos if you can't, I, and several other, wiser people than are going to tell you you are full of sh*t!! Robert Bastow John Stevenson wrote: > > On Wed, 04 Aug 1999 15:43:32 -0700, Bob & Marilyn Tonkins > wrote: > > >Ted Edwards & ALL; REASONABLY NEEDFUL STANDARDS. > > > > Ted takes exception to my saying that a fine thread bolt is not > >"stronger" than a coarse threaded one. Maybe he's right, super > >technically, but it doesn't really matter. We are talking at cross > >purposes. I'm talking about workable standards and he's using > >metallurgical standards. This illustrates a divergence well noted in > >this N.G., sometimes with flame wars and sometimes in good gentle humor. > > We have a hobby group here. Yet we have members debating the efficacy > >of granite surface tables vs. cast iron ones, ten thousandths > >measurements and machine levels costing as much as many of us paid for > >our entire lathe! What I'm saying is; it doesn't matter! We have no REAL > >need for all this fussiness. > > Way to go Boy. > I particularly like the thread about hand scraping lathe beds. > Some Boyo gets a 50 year old South Bend / Hendy / Logan [ insert make here ] > and then proceeds to ask how to do it and within 2 days is back on the group > saying that it will now hold to 0.0002" over 20 " > If that's the case why does industry need cylindrical grinders if these boyos > can hit 2 tenths every time on something that industry threw out ?? > > If you have a long bed lathe with the model number and date stamped on the end > will you have to take the earths curvature into account to keep this 2 tenths > accuracy? Also will the lathe crash at the end of this year with the Y2K bug ?? > > I know this is a hobbies group but it seems that there are more people moaning > and less doing hobby work. Or perhaps it's that the people working don't have > time to reply to every little nitpicking item. > -- > Regards, > John Stevenson > Nottingham, England ======== Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking Subject: Re: Innocent Abroad From: Robert Bastow Date: Thu, 05 Aug 1999 05:18:15 -0400 -------- Tom Holt wrote: Apart from that; > nothing springs to mind. Brits don't seem particularly interested in > their engineering or scientific heritage. Tom You're Sh**ing me! Right? Either that or you live in a hole!! > By the way; watch your step going round London. It's a dangerous > place, especially after dark (worse, in my experience, than NYC or LA) Different subject..But living proof that gun control doesn't prevent crime!! ======== Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking Subject: Re: WTB Milling Arbor From: Robert Bastow Date: Thu, 05 Aug 1999 05:21:11 -0400 -------- I am looking for a 4MT horizontal arbor for a Deckel Teenut DMI wrote: > > Does anyone have for sale a milling arbor for a Bridgeport right angle head. > Also looking for a shaper attachment for a Bridgeport mill. > > Tom. ======== Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking Subject: Re: Bolts & Other STANDARDS From: Robert Bastow Date: Thu, 05 Aug 1999 12:13:42 -0400 -------- Points very well taken Gary and represent the other side of the argument. I agree 100% that my piece did NOT define the difference between "accuracy" and "precision". I would argue that our best efforts combine the two on many occasions. I guess my point was (is), for the benefit of newer devotees, that one does not need to have "all the bells and whistles" to begin to enjoy this hobby. Robert Bastow (teenut) Gary Coffman wrote: > > On Wed, 04 Aug 1999 21:58:23 -0400, Robert Bastow wrote: > >At Last voices of reason!!!!! > > > >Mind you, better keep your heads down! > > > >I remember what happened, in the middle of the last Curvature of the > >Earth/Flatness to millionths/granite v/sscraped steel debate, when I suggested > >that a bit of good float glass, a table saw top or even a good bit of formica > >topped kitchen counter would produce a flat enough reference for 99% of what > >most model engineers/home shop machinists could ever need!! > > I've recently read James Nasmyth's autobiography. He comments that > Maudslay supplied his workmen with surface plates for their benches, > and the quality of their work, whether it depended on the flatness of a > surface or not, improved as a result. The idea was to banish the notion > that one needn't do one's best. That instills a slipshod attitude which > results in second class work. > > Particularly as hobbyists, we shouldn't be satisfied with 99%. Our efforts > are matters of pride rather than profit, and should be done to the highest > quality standard that we can muster. The first time that I produced a fit > which resulted in the pin floating on the air column in a hole was a moment > of great satisfaction to me. That was a very high precision bit of work, > no doubt more precise than I could have gotten by with for the job, but it > mattered to me that it was the best work I could do. > > >Now people will come back and say they regularly work to "tenths" and to them I > >issue this warning...You had better be able to back it up with recently, > >independently calibrated, traceable standards and you had better be able to > >prove that all your work is done in an air conditioned, temperature controlled, > >clean room! > > You're confusing accuracy and precision. We don't often need to work > to tenths accuracy, but we often do need, or desire, to work to tenths > precision. We do that every time we make a precision fit. We don't much > care how our work relates to the distance between two marks on a platinum > bar kept in an air conditioned vault in Paris (or more recently the wavelength > of a certain atomic transition), but we do care that our fits are right. That > requires working to a high precision. > > The worst enemy of excellence is the notion of "good enough". In the practical > profit driven world, we aren't willing to strive for excellence because it is more > costly than "good enough". But in the hobby world, striving for excellence is > often the entire object of the exercise. > > There is, of course, a bit of absurdity to the notion of "measure with a > micrometer, mark with a crayon, and cut with an axe" that sometimes > creeps into these discussions. We do need to maintain some perspective. > But I think that we need to keep excellence of workmanship clearly in > sight as one of our main goals. We aren't likely to be very proud of > shoddy work, even if it does get by. > > Gary > Gary Coffman KE4ZV | You make it |mail to ke4zv@bellsouth.net > 534 Shannon Way | We break it | > Lawrenceville, GA | Guaranteed | ======== Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking Subject: Re: Innocent Abroad From: Robert Bastow Date: Thu, 05 Aug 1999 12:22:40 -0400 -------- Point well taken Tom. Robert Tom Holt wrote: > > The message <37A956D7.7C702154@hotmail.com> > from Robert Bastow contains these words: > > > Tom Holt wrote: > > Apart from that; > > > nothing springs to mind. Brits don't seem particularly interested in > > > their engineering or scientific heritage. > > > Tom You're Sh**ing me! Right? > > > Either that or you live in a hole!! > > Nah. See my reply to John. We have an 'Arts Council' to promote > awareness of French, German & Italian music and painting; my daughter > can tell you all about the classics of Indian medieval literature, > 'cos that's what they teach her about in school. Ask her about > Matthew Boulton or Stevenson (the other Stevenson...) or Brunel and > she hasn't a clue. And that's sad. ======== Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking Subject: Re: Newbie lathe work questions From: Robert Bastow Date: Thu, 05 Aug 1999 18:10:52 -0400 -------- I bet he never forgets again though! Teenut PumaRacing wrote: > A friend's teenage son was learning to use a lathe and started the spindle with > the chuck key in. Might have been no big deal except he had his other hand > resting on the lathe bed just under the chuck for some ungodly reason. ======== Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking Subject: Re: FS Might interest someone. Looks like good "stuff" From: Robert Bastow Date: Thu, 05 Aug 1999 23:37:04 -0400 -------- Durn you Bill! Just when I thought I had everything I need!! Teenut BillDarby wrote: > > http://cgi.ebay.com/aw-cgi/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=141845959 ======== Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking Subject: Re: Must-have mill goodies. From: Robert Bastow Date: Thu, 05 Aug 1999 23:52:42 -0400 -------- I get all my cutters in Ebay for pennies on the pound..Haven't had a bad one yet. No need for solid carbide unless you are machining really tough steel. On MS etc they loose thier wear advantage by chipping and crumbling if your mill and setup are not perfectly rigid. Toolholders? R8 collets are adequate for most jobs. Better buy good used brandname than cheap imports. Vice I have a 6" Kurt clone that is as accurate and durable as I can measure. MSC have a DEAL on the new Kurt 6" right now that takes some beating. A clamping kit..you can buy them cheaper than you can make 'em..Having the right bits on hand for a proper set up saves time and frustration Parallels..get the 1/8" wide imports..steer clear of the "superthins..they'll drive you nuts. Next most useful big purchase..8" H&V rotary table Phase II is good. You can add tailstock and dividing plates as needed. Robert Bastow That ought to keep you going Dick Brewster wrote: > > In article , > mikegraham@sprint.ca says... > > I know that someone out there is going to put DROs and indexing heads down > > as 'must-haves', and they probably are if you're going to be using the mill > > to make money, but I'm looking for 'the basics' that I'm going to want to > > have when I pick up my Bridgeport tomorrow. > > I look through the industrial supply catalogues and my head just spins. I > > see ball-nosed endmills and ball-nosed slot drills and I wonder what the > > difference is. I see hundreds of designs of cutting doohickeys. I wonder > > which ones you *really* need. > > I appreciate that this is going to depend on how you use it (what metal > > you're cutting, etc.) so I'll just say that it will be 90% mild steel, 5% > > tool and hi-carb steel (old car springs etc) and 5% 'other'. > > So if you had a gun to your head and needed to prune your collection down > > to half a dozen bits (mill stuff, not drill bits or reamers etc.) then what > > would they be? > > Are high-end bits worth the money for an occasional user? The good stuff > > (Dormer, etc.) cost some serious coin. $40 CAD for a 1/2" 2-flute endmill > > is one price I've gotten. This encourages me to choose wisely. 8-) > > > > > > Mike, I eagerly await the responses to your question. > > I'm a long way from getting DROs or CNC, but I do buy various > cutting doohickies. > > I did buy a set of Enco 2 and 4 flute milling cutters, and both > my machine shop instructor and self taught (but good) > machinist/engineering student son were impressed with the bang > for the buck. > > I see end mills as something like drill bits. A complete set of > reasonable quality but cheap bits is better than holding out for > the ultimate. Just fill in the worn out stuff with high quality > parts, and the lower quality lightly used stuff just faithfully > sits there for years waiting for you to need it some Sunday > afternoon when all the stores are closed. > > Dick > > -- > username. dbrewste > domain. ix.netcom.com ======== Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking Subject: Re: Circular saw blades From: Robert Bastow Date: Thu, 05 Aug 1999 23:58:08 -0400 -------- Straightening and "tensioning" a saw blade to run true and safely at speed are jobs for an expert. If it is an expensive one..get a good regrind shop to "inspect and advise" If a cheap one ..chuck it!! That whack may have cracked the blade or loosened teeth. Better luck next time. Robert Bastow Donald Warner wrote: > > I just bought a new 10 in carbide fine cross cut blade for my chop saw to > make miter cuts for a > crown molding job. Unfortunately one hour later a small wedge of wood jammed > and bent the > blade 1/4" out of true. How do you true up a blade to a reasonable > condition? > Don Warner ======== Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking Subject: Re: mill as lathe? From: Robert Bastow Date: Fri, 06 Aug 1999 12:08:29 -0400 -------- A HORIZONTAL mill makes a dandy "teebed" lathe of adjustable center height. Have done this a couple of times over the past forty years and it was a lifesaver. Milling machines (horizontal spindle at first) evolved from lathes. Witness the "Lincoln Miller". First came milling attachments..just like hobbyists use, next came elevating heads..the Lincoln, Then came elevating beds. The vertical mill is a relative late comer and its development had to await the development of effective end mills etc. The modern lathe, shaper and planer were British developments. However, the modern milling machine is almost entirely an American grown machine tool. Robert Bastow rodgerdodger@homeplate.com wrote: > > its quite common to use a lathe as a mill..... > but how about using a mill as a lathe. > has anyone tried this. > with autofeed on the quill then it looks like maybe..... > Rodger ======== Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking Subject: Re: grizzly milling machine From: Robert Bastow Date: Fri, 06 Aug 1999 14:36:58 -0400 -------- I would second that with a couple of caveats!! Firstly, a lot of the "Old Iron" is into its third or forth owner and is pretty well clapped out. Thats OK if you are looking for a "Project" but be sure that parts are available etc. Secondly, always figure freight costs into the price. New Machines of Asian origin are often available close at hand or with subsidised freight costs. I recently bought a used Deckel FP1 on Ebay for $2025.00 The Machine is better than I ever hoped dream about..as close to "as new" as anyone could wish. Obviously I am delighted with it. Cost of getting it from Silicon Valley to my shop in Atlanta? Rigger to pick up in SV and deliver to Freight Co....$450.00 Freight to Rigger in Atlanta..........................750.00 Rigger to deliver and place on my shop floor..........425.00 Sub total............................................1575.00 Add to that: Cost of building/connecting 3 ph rotary converter.....300.00 Total including machine.............................$4900.00 I could have bought a GREAT used Bridport,locally for less than that. Or a NEW Asian Clone. But it would not have been a Deckel FP1 and I would have been willing to pay DOUBLE what it cost to get what I wanted. Robert Bastow Kevin Pinkerton wrote: > > On Fri, 06 Aug 1999 09:16:15 -0500, Steve Smith > wrote: > > >Buy a used machine like a Millrite or Rockwell. Far better value. Try Dave > >Ficken: > >www.mermac.com > >He gets many favorable comments here. > > I have to second that. I believe that you always get more bang for > your buck when you buy used machinery. I would suggest that you call > around all of the local machine shops in your area telling them you > are looking for a vertical knee mill. You might be real surprised at > what you will find. I found my Wells-Index mill that way. It is more > then enough mill for me and only cost $1200. > > Kevin > > My Gun Page: http://extra.newsguy.com/~kpinkert/ ======== Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking Subject: What did I do Wrong?? From: Robert Bastow Date: Fri, 06 Aug 1999 14:47:15 -0400 -------- Four posts today..all AGREEING with what I have written. Even one that is COMPLEMENTARY!! Have I lost my touch..Or are all Youse Guys turning into a bunch of sheep?? ;^) Teenut ======== Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking Subject: Re: What did I do Wrong?? From: Robert Bastow Date: Fri, 06 Aug 1999 14:49:49 -0400 -------- Make that COMPLIMENTARY!!.. Robert Bastow wrote: > > Four posts today..all AGREEING with what I have written. > > Even one that is COMPLEMENTARY!! > > Have I lost my touch..Or are all Youse Guys turning into a bunch of sheep?? ;^) > > Teenut ======== Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking Subject: Re: grizzly milling machine From: Robert Bastow Date: Fri, 06 Aug 1999 14:58:37 -0400 -------- I wondered where the (recent) rust spots and fingerprints came from!! Small world isn't it?? I'm glad I beat you to it but better luck next time!! Tom Sharples (the seller) seemed like a helluva nice guy. He was ready to ship before I was able to extricate the funds from my long term investments (I didn't ask him and I wouldn't let him) He did however ship it before the check cleared. Did you buy the EXCELLO? If it was in anything like the shape of the Deckel...You got a great machine. Robert Teenut DMI wrote: > > Soooooo!!! > > You're the one that got that Deckel.. Nice machine. I was over at his place > looking at the XLO Mill he was selling and I was salivating all over the > Deckel, which by that time was yours and was awaiting shipment. Nice buy. > > Tom. > > Robert Bastow wrote in messa.ge <37AB2B4A.D7B9237F@hotmail.com>... > >I would second that with a couple of caveats!! > > > >Firstly, a lot of the "Old Iron" is into its third or forth owner and is > pretty > >well clapped out. Thats OK if you are looking for a "Project" but be sure > that > >parts are available etc. > > > >Secondly, always figure freight costs into the price. New Machines of > Asian > >origin are often available close at hand or with subsidised freight costs. > > > >I recently bought a used Deckel FP1 on Ebay for $2025.00 The Machine is > better > >than I ever hoped dream about..as close to "as new" as anyone could wish. > >Obviously I am delighted with it. > > > >Cost of getting it from Silicon Valley to my shop in Atlanta? > > > >Rigger to pick up in SV and deliver to Freight Co....$450.00 > >Freight to Rigger in Atlanta..........................750.00 > >Rigger to deliver and place on my shop floor..........425.00 > > > >Sub total............................................1575.00 > > > >Add to that: > > > >Cost of building/connecting 3 ph rotary converter.....300.00 > > > >Total including machine.............................$4900.00 > > > >I could have bought a GREAT used Bridport,locally for less than that. Or a > NEW > >Asian Clone. > > > >But it would not have been a Deckel FP1 and I would have been willing to > pay > >DOUBLE what it cost to get what I wanted. > > > >Robert Bastow > > > > > >Kevin Pinkerton wrote: > >> > >> On Fri, 06 Aug 1999 09:16:15 -0500, Steve Smith > >> wrote: > >> > >> >Buy a used machine like a Millrite or Rockwell. Far better value. Try > Dave > >> >Ficken: > >> >www.mermac.com > >> >He gets many favorable comments here. > >> > >> I have to second that. I believe that you always get more bang for > >> your buck when you buy used machinery. I would suggest that you call > >> around all of the local machine shops in your area telling them you > >> are looking for a vertical knee mill. You might be real surprised at > >> what you will find. I found my Wells-Index mill that way. It is more > >> then enough mill for me and only cost $1200. > >> > >> Kevin > >> > >> My Gun Page: http://extra.newsguy.com/~kpinkert/ ======== Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking Subject: Re: What did I do Wrong?? From: Robert Bastow Date: Fri, 06 Aug 1999 15:02:23 -0400 -------- No Dave..I corrected my spelling error..before someone else did!! However, I found your criticism reassuring !! 8^) Robert Dave, Fleming wrote: > > " And then says I. " > OK, here the pin to burst the balloon. > Ya posted your self complimentary spiel twice! > > dave > ::Make that COMPLIMENTARY!!.. > :: > ::Robert Bastow wrote: > ::> > ::> Four posts today..all AGREEING with what I have written. > ::> > ::> Even one that is COMPLEMENTARY!! > ::> > ::> Have I lost my touch..Or are all Youse Guys turning into a bunch of sheep?? ;^) > ::> > ::> Teenut > > "I wouldn't say I'm idle, I just have a sedimentary lifestyle." ======== Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking Subject: Re: grizzly milling machine From: Robert Bastow Date: Fri, 06 Aug 1999 19:13:25 -0400 -------- I take it you mean 125 Thousandths per rev?? a "mil" is an angular measurement used in artillery. Teenut Colin Bosch wrote: > The only negative thing I can find with the machine is that > they use 8 pitch screws so the handwheels are 125 mils per > revolution. ======== Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking Subject: Re: Calibrated weights? From: Robert Bastow Date: Fri, 06 Aug 1999 19:27:28 -0400 -------- Don't worry about it too much..Old Will Shakspere..Shakespeare...Sh..Er.. Wagglepike!.. had a dozen or more spellings for his own name!! 8^) Teanut (sp) Gerald Miller wrote: > >Shakespear (sp) ======== Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking Subject: Re: Must-have mill goodies. From: Robert Bastow Date: Fri, 06 Aug 1999 19:34:34 -0400 -------- Talk about days of wine and roses! After a lifetime of scrounging old rags, dishcloths, teatowels used diapers (????don't GO there) I now find that Home Despot sell bundles of white hand towels for 3.89 per.. Mine now go through a cycle: Sweat wipe, handwipe, washing machine (X 2 or three cycles) Hand wipe,tool wipe, part wipe. (X 2 or three times) Handwipe, tool wipe, part wipe, machine wipe, floor wipe..Garbage!! Wealth indeed. Teenut Ted Evans wrote: > > Many great suggestions. I wouldn't think of working at the mill/lathe > without a couple of shop rags nearby. They probably get used more > than anything in the shop, but then I admit to being messy. > > Ted ======== Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking Subject: Re: Tile & machines From: Robert Bastow Date: Fri, 06 Aug 1999 20:24:22 -0400 -------- Are you sure you want stone tile in your workshop?? It will be hell on your feet and back!! I just spent a pile of time and money putting down a sprung, wooden floor over my concrete floor...for just that reason! So far as dropping things is concerned...Sod's law applies: When standing on soft floor nothing is dropped.. When standing on hard floor dropped objects increase as the square of their value and fragility!! Teenut sunworshiper wrote: > > I just acquired enough man made stone tile from Italy to > do my new shop floor. I know how to install it right. > Thing is ..... How many times in a home shop does one > drop a heavey part or tool? I can't remember once of > moving a foot quick as not to be hurt. > > -- > The Sun shines , people forget. > > Without the Sun none of us would be here. > > Sent via Deja.com http://www.deja.com/ > Share what you know. Learn what you don't. ======== Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking Subject: Re: Going to Hungary and Czech Republic - suggestions? From: Robert Bastow Date: Fri, 06 Aug 1999 20:30:42 -0400 -------- The Czech Republic is home to such munitions greats as Skoda and Brno. A web search will bring up LOTS of information on them and possible company or municipal museums in their home towns. Teenut Alberic wrote: > > In article <37AB0361.55AE04ED@sea.hp.com>, Jim McGill wrote: > > >I'm going to be in Prague and Budapest in September for a couple weeks > >and was wondering if anyone had metalworking / old machinery collections > >to recommend. Ideally I'd like at least one destination in each place to > >counteract all the art museums, old castles and cathedrals that my wife > >will be interested in. Musical instrument collections would also be > >interesting. > > > >Thanks > > > >Jim > > Humm....I can't think of any metalworking collections specifically, but I > was only in the area for about 2 weeks. There's a castle/schloss not far > from Prague that has a pretty good medieval armour collection, and a > completely unpronouncable name. (It was Archduke Franz Ferdinand's summer > home. (Franz Ferdinand was the one who got shot in Sarajevo...)) It's > definitely worth the trip just for the castle tour. Looking around for > F.Ferdinand's castle should get you there. There's an absolutely amazing > collection of hunting trophies... > > In between Prague and Budapest is a little hole-in-the-wall place called > Czesky Crumlov, which is a medieval town that's pretty much unchanged > since the 15th century. It's a UNESCO world heritage site, and with good > reason. Amazingly pretty place, good for a day at least. The castle's in > pretty good shape, and has an absolutely astounding Baroque theater. (One > of two surviving 15th century theaters left in the world.) Unfortunately, > the theater will probably still be closed to the public, but the rest of > the castle is definitely worth seeing, especially the "modern art" > ceramics gallery in the old dungeon. > (really.) It's actually a pretty nice gallery, and the lighting down in > the dungeon is....not what you'd expect. I know I'm misspelling Czesky > Krumlov, but that's close enough to get you there. If you can get a > reservation, the Hotel Rosse (?Rose?) is very good: it's a 15th century > monastary. Really. Perched on a rock over the river, and one of the few > hotels within the walls. > > In Budapest...humm...well, the only thing I can think of is that you > absolutely *must* get to the national history museum. The building's a > wreck, and looks awful, (or did, 2 years ago) but the collections inside > are amazing, and whoever was running the place was doing a really > impressive job with display. The building may be falling down around > their ears, but every object in the place had wall cards in Magyar and > English. They had a really good computer interactive history system set > up in several languages, and really seemed to be on the ball. They've > also got a lot of very early celtic and medieval metalworking that just > *doesn't* get published over here. Some really astounding stuff. > > Hope you have fun, > Brian > > -- > To Email me: there are no numbers of any sort in my real address. ======== Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking Subject: Re: What is it? From: Robert Bastow Date: Sat, 07 Aug 1999 00:48:45 -0400 -------- Sounds more like a counter-bore into which you can put varying diameters of pilot. Are the teeth end cutting? Robert Bastow Craig C. wrote: > > done wrote: > > >I found among some stuff that I purchased what I think is some form of > >reamer. > >It is 5/8 x 14" one end is rounded over with what look like keyways > >cut about 8" > >from rounded end down the shaft. Keyways are 180 deg from each other. > >Other > >end is larger diameter and hollowed out 1/2" with two set screws in it > >that would > >hold a shaft inserted into the hollowed out portion. Is this a reamer? > > sounds kinda like an adjustable reamer without all of the parts there. > > Craig ======== Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking Subject: Re: C.E. Johansson guage blocks From: Robert Bastow Date: Sat, 07 Aug 1999 00:53:26 -0400 -------- The surely are..by everybody and his dog!! Look for "Gage Blocks" although I tend to use "Jo Blocks" for the rectangular type, to distinguish them in my mind and shop from the square type favored by Brown & Sharpe, P&W and other makers. Lots on Ebay ;^) Teenut MttnBob wrote: > > Does anyone know if these guage blocks are still made? ======== Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking Subject: Re: kaowool From: Robert Bastow Date: Sat, 07 Aug 1999 01:15:45 -0400 -------- Unfortunately thes people will only sell a full roll..Very expensive if you only need a few feet for a propane forge. As I said in my earlier post..Try the knife-list..I always get mine through sources there. Robert Bastow Alfred Kimmel wrote: > > A.P. Green refactorys check your local phone book > > tom wrote: > > > I am hunting for a source for Kaowool, can anyone help? > > > > Thanks > > Tom Black > > vango@hiwaay.net ======== Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking Subject: Re: Quorn: what is quorn please?? From: Robert Bastow Date: Sat, 07 Aug 1999 18:15:42 -0400 -------- Close...But no cigar!! The "Quorn" was designed by Prof Dennis Chaddock, a frequent contributor to Model Engineering and a Professor at Loughborough College. This College is in Leicestershire in England and close to the village of Quorn..Famous for it's Fox Hunting. So now you know ;^) Teenut Grant Erwin wrote: > > Quorn isn't a what, it was a he. Professor Quorn was an English guy > who cobbled up a design for a tool and cutter grinder and wrote a book > on it. ======== Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking Subject: Re: Quorn: what is quorn please?? From: Robert Bastow Date: Sat, 07 Aug 1999 18:15:49 -0400 -------- Close...But no cigar!! The "Quorn" was designed by Prof Dennis Chaddock, a frequent contributor to Model Engineering and a Professor at Loughborough College. This College is in Leicestershire in England and close to the village of Quorn..Famous for it's Fox Hunting. So now you know ;^) Teenut Grant Erwin wrote: > > Quorn isn't a what, it was a he. Professor Quorn was an English guy > who cobbled up a design for a tool and cutter grinder and wrote a book > on it. ======== Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking Subject: Re: Quorn: what is quorn please?? From: Robert Bastow Date: Sat, 07 Aug 1999 18:15:54 -0400 -------- Close...But no cigar!! The "Quorn" was designed by Prof Dennis Chaddock, a frequent contributor to Model Engineering and a Professor at Loughborough College. This College is in Leicestershire in England and close to the village of Quorn..Famous for it's Fox Hunting. So now you know ;^) Teenut Grant Erwin wrote: > > Quorn isn't a what, it was a he. Professor Quorn was an English guy > who cobbled up a design for a tool and cutter grinder and wrote a book > on it. ======== Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking Subject: Re: Quorn: what is quorn please?? From: Robert Bastow Date: Sat, 07 Aug 1999 18:36:16 -0400 -------- Sorry about the multiple orgasms! My server kept telling me I had a config. error, while all the time it was sneaking behind my back and posting anyway!! Same thing is happening when I try to cancel the excess messages. Right now I show several..Some I get an expired message on, some I don't. I will try to re-config. and get rid of the excess. Robert Robert Bastow wrote: > > Close...But no cigar!! > > The "Quorn" was designed by Prof Dennis Chaddock, a frequent contributor to > Model Engineering and a Professor at Loughborough College. This College is in > Leicestershire in England and close to the village of Quorn..Famous for it's Fox > Hunting. > > So now you know ;^) > > Teenut > > Grant Erwin wrote: > > > > Quorn isn't a what, it was a he. Professor Quorn was an English guy > > who cobbled up a design for a tool and cutter grinder and wrote a book > > on it. ======== Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking Subject: Re: Inert Gases From: Robert Bastow Date: Sat, 07 Aug 1999 18:58:32 -0400 -------- I tig weld ..so far, using only straight argon. The welding store gave me a bottle of A/CO2 in error and it blew holes in everything..No A/CO2 does not work for tig!! What are the advantages for A/He? Bear in mind I only ever weld steel. Teenut Ted Edwards wrote: > > Alfred Kimmel wrote: > > > The mixed gas is about 70% cheeper > > > Ben wrote: > > > > I would like to know the pros and cons of mixed CO2/Argon gases versus > > > straight Argon for GTAW welding of various metals. > > I've never heard of CO2/A for TIG (GTAW). MIG - yes, TIG no. No doubt > someone will quickly correct me if I'm wrong about this. > > I use 75/25 A/He for all my TIG work. It's a bit more expensive than > straight A but it works very well. > > Ted ======== Newsgroups: alt.machines.cnc,rec.crafts.metalworking Subject: Re: Swarf in your "Fur" From: Robert Bastow Date: Sun, 08 Aug 1999 02:55:50 -0400 -------- A good blowdown with a SAFETY air line nozzle is the old stand by! Watch your eyes!! A shop vac with a home designed comb might be safer and better. The great inventions are always those that address an existing problem...you appear to have found one. Now find the best solution and tell NO-ONE until you have patent protection!! ;^) Robert Bastow Charles Gallo wrote: > > Ok, > Here's one for discussion. I'm one of those guys who doesn't just > have hair on his arms and chest, but I have HAIR - like a fur suit. > One of my big problems, especially when running a drill press is the > swarf gets stuck to my arms and the base of my neck, just above the > collar. > > What do you guys do? My wife doesn't like me tracking this stuff into > the house > > Charlie ======== Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking Subject: Re: What do you call this accessory? From: Robert Bastow Date: Sun, 08 Aug 1999 04:36:31 -0400 -------- It is officially called...."a little tool designed to help remove gunk from the inside threads of a chuck" ;^) Making one is dead easy...Take a suitable length of 3/16 dia drillrod and bend it into a "U" shape a little larger across than the diameter of your spindle nose. (I bent mine AROUND the spindle nos and it turned out just right!!) If you wand to get REAL fancy..make a double turn..soe it looks like the butt end of a safety pin. Cit both ends to the same length, which should be about 4" for a 2" dia spindle. Now, heat the ends to a dull red and bend the last 1/4 inch outwards at 90deg. At the same time, forge these ends down to a flat blade section. Grind or file these blades to fit your thread form, harden and temper right back to a full purple. No need to heat treat the whole issue..just the last inch or so. You're done, enjoy! Teenut Alden Hackmann wrote: > > I saw a drawing once of a little tool designed to help remove gunk >from the inside threads of a chuck It would make it easier to find in a > catalog if I knew its name... ======== Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking Subject: Re: where to find knife rivets From: Robert Bastow Date: Sun, 08 Aug 1999 04:55:36 -0400 -------- Any Knifemaker's Supply can supply what are called "Cutlers rivets" or a slightly better version called a "Chicago Rivet" Better still are what are known as "Loveless" screws or "Hidden Bolts" Janz Supply, Texas Knifemakers Supply, Sheffield Knifemakers Supply, Koval Knives will all be able to help. Try a web search, failing which, get a copy of one of the better Custom Knife Magazines..."Blade" or "Knives Illustrated" You would be well advised to get a book on the fundamentals of knife making. Consensus seems to be that, "How to Make Knives" by Bob Loveless et. al. is probably the very best to start with. Do be WARNED!!! Health risks involved Blade making is a contagious, reportable disease!! Once you make your first knife it is incurable!! Teenut Adam Whiteson wrote: > > I am making a few woodworking knives for my shop but I little > experience and less knowledge of this craft. My first attempts have > been encouraging. I was wondering where I could find the proper > kind of rivets to make simple wooden handles riveted thru the handle? > And what kind should I get? I have been using brass screws which are > ok but not really the best. > > Thanks - adam > > ======== Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking Subject: Re: Bringing home the Bridgeport. LONG. From: Robert Bastow Date: Sun, 08 Aug 1999 23:15:48 -0400 -------- Kathy and Erich Coiner wrote: > Snip great tale of why professional riggers have job security. > Erich I have moved, literally, hundreds of tons of machinery in my (too long?) time. I am getting to old and too wise to do it anymore! Some days I can hardly stand without my back brace...And before you laugh young laddies, let me assure you that none was "Tougher" when I was younger!! Bit the heads off nails, carried Bridgeports on my back, leapt tall buildings and talked with God!! Finally I wized up! My last machine was handled by professionals every inch of the way. During the final stage I stood in the shade (98 deg at the time) and pointed out the route. While the pros did their thing I relaxed, made a couple phone calls that more than covered their bill and next I knew the machine was in place, in my basement, "placed on prepared foundations", and I hadn't broken a sweat. Moving your own tackle, unless you are well prepared, well experienced and well insured is kinda like adding up the TRUE cost of marital sex.. A) You can't afford it! B) Hookers are cheaper! Teenut ======== Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking Subject: Re: Inert Gases From: Robert Bastow Date: Sun, 08 Aug 1999 23:28:02 -0400 -------- In other words, if I read you correctly, their is no advantage in using anything but straight argon for tig welding steel?? Teenut Roz Michaels wrote: > > The addition of Helium to Argon shielding gas for aluminum GTAW > serves to form a hotter plasma, and improve the fluidity of the > puddle. This usually translates into improved bead appearance and > penetration. 75Ar/25He can definitely improve the AC performance > of the small AC-DC machines on the market such as the Econotig, > Syncrowave 180, and Square Wave Tig 175. > > There are unusual situations where small amounts of CO2 are added > to GTAW shielding gases, but these are almost unheard of. > > BTW, In the USA, an Ar/CO2 mix usually costs more than a bottle > of straight argon, due to the addition labor of making a 2-part > mix. > -Roz > > -- > Welding equipment, supplies, technical support. Can ship > throughout the continental U.S. 1-800-248-1215-307 ======== Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking Subject: Re: What did I do Wrong?? From: Robert Bastow Date: Mon, 09 Aug 1999 19:16:27 -0400 -------- I AM on the correct side of the pond!! 8^) Robert Veronica Parsons wrote: > > Robert Bastow wrote: > > > Four posts today..all AGREEING with what I have written. > > > > Even one that is COMPLEMENTARY!! > > > > Have I lost my touch..Or are all Youse Guys turning into a bunch of sheep?? ;^) > > > > Teenut > > You should have stayed on the correct side of the pond. Me thinks 'it' has finally > effected you!! > > Veronica ======== Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking Subject: Re: What did I do Wrong?? From: Robert Bastow Date: Mon, 09 Aug 1999 19:17:33 -0400 -------- So do I..check my next message before you leap!! Robert Bissett wrote: > > Veronica Parsons wrote: > > > > Robert Bastow wrote: > > > > > Four posts today..all AGREEING with what I have written. > > > > > > Even one that is COMPLEMENTARY!! > > > > > > Have I lost my touch..Or are all Youse Guys turning into a bunch of sheep?? ;^) > > > > > > Teenut > > > > You should have stayed on the correct side of the pond. Me thinks 'it' has finally > > effected you!! > > > > Veronica > > --- > Can't resist. Here's the disagreeing comment: > > Us guys know how to spell "complimentary". 8^) > > Bob > --- ======== Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking Subject: Re: rip off alert From: Robert Bastow Date: Mon, 09 Aug 1999 19:49:16 -0400 -------- I think you choose your words badly dogbert. A rip off implies that the seller is dishonest..All I see here is buyer stupidity. There are no laws against that..other than natures own law of survival of the fittest. Let me put it this way: If you buy an item in a store for $300.00 and later see it for sale at another store for $275.00, is the first store guilty of "Ripping you Off"? Or are you purely to blame for not researching the market properly? Robert Bastow dogbert@theoffice.com wrote: > > purchased new 329.99 HarborFreight > on ebay for 414.00 > http://cgi.ebay.com/aw-cgi/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=142166329 > > dogbert ======== Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking Subject: Re: Bridgeport motor... replace with one phase or stay 3? From: Robert Bastow Date: Tue, 10 Aug 1999 11:51:47 -0400 -------- Thank you John for a very erudite explanation of things electrical that I, a Brit/Canadian/American have been puzzled by for years!! Saved AND Printed! Teenut John Kasunich wrote: > > john@engineers-com.freeserve.co.uk (John Stevenson) wrote: > > > I'll try a little ascii art here. > > > > R S > > X X > > X X > > X X > > U.V.W. > > X > > X > > X > > T > > > > This is the layout for 440v with the 3 phase lines > > at R.S.T. The other 3 terminals are linked to form > > a star point. To run this same motor off 240v 3 phase > > you connect as :- > > > > R XXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXX U > > V X X T > > X X > > X X > > X X > > X X > > X X > > X X > > X > > S W > > > > With a phase at each corner so that the links connect r.v, > > u.t and s.w > > and in another post: > > > As I have stated in previous posts this three winding type motor > > is the ONLY type [ except specials ] that is available all over > > Europe, the middle East, Far East etc. I cannot see how anybody > > can make that statement that it's not a common motor design. > > In fact from the more I read and emails I have received from > > others it seems that only America has this 9 wire design motor. > > > > A typical motor plate will read > > 220 -240 delta 1.5Kw 7.51 Amp > > 380 -415 star 1.5Kw 3.51 Amp > > > > -- > > Regards, > > John Stevenson > > Nottingham, England > > > > And NOW we are finally getting to the bottom of the confusion!!! > > First some background - I am an EE, and work for a company > that makes both VFDs and motors. I work on VFDs, unfortunatly > not HSM sized ones. (In the last six years, I have worked on > drives from 200 HP to 5500 HP!) I have pretty good knowledge > of US motor and drive standards, and _some_ knowledge of > European standards. John or others feel free to correct me! > > John - look at the nameplate data that you quoted - the high > voltage (380-415) is 1.732 times the low voltage (220-240). > All the Americans in this thread keep talking about running > at 2X the voltage, and refer to 230/460 volt motors. There's > a big difference between 1.732X and 2X. I think I can explain > it. > > First, let's see where the 1.732 comes from. Go back to the > ASCII art. Good pictures. Now, get out a piece of paper and > draw them to scale. Make each winding 2.4 inches long, to > represent 240 volts. In the delta configuration, the distance > between corners is 2.4 inches, for 240 V line-to-line. Now > measure the distance from corner to corner of the wye (star) > version. 4.15 inches, or 415 volts line-to-line! Matches the > nameplate exactly! The factor of 1.732 is actually the square > root of 3, which comes from the geometry of the picture and > shows up alot when dealing with three phase. Line-to-line > voltage for any three phase source is always 1.732 times the > line-to-neutral voltage. > > Now back to US vs. Euro motors. I think this relates back to > the differences in electric power on opposite sides of the pond. > > Here in the US, standard residential wall sockets are 120V > single phase, with one side grounded. Houses are fed by single > phase center tapped transformers, 240 volts end to end, with the > center tap grounded. Small loads are connected from either end > (line) to the center tap (neutral), and large loads (240V) are > connected from from end to end (line-to-line). > As loads scale up, we switch to three phase. The line-to-line > voltage remains 240V. As loads get even bigger the voltage is > stepped up another factor of 2 and we get 480 volts line-to-line. > So, American power follows a 1:2:4 progression, 120V single phase, > 240V single and three phase, and 480V three phase. > > Now let's look at Brit/Euro power. Please correct me if I have > this wrong! I think the standard wall socket in Europe is 240V > single phase. I don't know if one side is grounded or not, can > somebody fill me in? I would expect that houses are fed by single > phase transformers, with either one side or the center tap grounded. > Larger buildings are fed with three phase, 240 volts line-to-line. > Single phase loads are connected line-to-line. Still larger > buildings are fed from wye transformers, 415 volts line-to-line. > Single phase loads are connected line-to-neutral where they still > recieve 240 volts. So three phase power over there is either 240 > or 415 volts, a 1:1.732 progression. > > So, in the US, where power follows a 1:2:4 progression, motors > are 6 winding, 9 lead. They can be connected as two wyes in > parallel for 240V, or one wye can be split into three individual > windings and connected in series with the other wye for 480V. > In Europe, where power follows a 1:1.732 progression, motors are > three winding, 6 lead, and can be connected in delta for 240V or > in wye (star) for 415V. What do you think - does this make any > sense? > > If you are still confused, don't read any further, this will > only make it worse! This stuff is more like trivia, but if > I don't put it in, somebody is bound to bring it up. > 1) Most US motors are rated at 230/460, not 240/480. This > is basically an allowance for the drop in line voltage under > load. The basic concept is that 240/480 is the _supply_ voltage, > and 230/460 is the _load_ voltage. > 2) Older standards used 115/230/460 or even 110/220/440 as > the supply voltage, and many people still use those terms. The > present standard is 120/240/480. > 3) Some US motors have 208V on the nameplate, either alone > or in addition to 230. This is because some commercial buildings > with mostly single phase loads are fed from a wye transformer, > center point grounded and 120 volts from center (neutral) to > each corner (line). The 120V single phase loads are connected > from line to neutral. Any three phase loads see 208V line-to- > line (120 x 1.732). This type of power is often referred to as > 120Y/208, and the 208 volt motor rating is for use on such power. > 4) Don't even get me started about those crazy Canadians with > their 575 volt three phase lines! > 5) An American 460V 60Hz motor can be used in Europe on 380V > 50Hz power. It will deliver rated torque, at rated amps, but will > run at a no load speed of 1500 RPM instead of 1800 RPM and will > only deliver 5/6 the HP. This is because the voltage/frequency > ratio for 460V/60Hz is almost exactly the same as 380V/50Hz. > > Enough trivia, this post is already too long... > > John Kasunich > Sr. Drives Development Engineer > Rockwell Automation/Reliance Electric > (I speak for myself, not my employer) > > Sent via Deja.com http://www.deja.com/ > Share what you know. Learn what you don't. ======== Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking Subject: Re: Roller Bearing Loads? From: Robert Bastow Date: Wed, 11 Aug 1999 00:16:21 -0400 -------- I am waiting for the Roller bearings in my Maximat Super II to give up the ghost..So that I can figure out how to replace them with tapered bronze bearings..Just like a "Proper"lathe!! Teenut mulligan@advinc.com wrote: > > In article <19990810084525.26640.00000024@ng-fq1.aol.com>, > geneleis@aol.com (GeneLeis) wrote: > > > ... so with big expensive stuff,... > > some serious thought goes into the mounting of these bearings. > > Or even the little stuff. There was a reasonably long thread > recently here about the tapered roller bearings in a milling > machine spindle, and what would be the absolutely best way to > set them up. > > Home shop stuff does not cost as much as the big boy's toys, but > we sure care a lot about it! > > Jim > > Sent via Deja.com http://www.deja.com/ > Share what you know. Learn what you don't. ======== Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking Subject: Re: Roller Bearing Loads? From: Robert Bastow Date: Wed, 11 Aug 1999 00:16:55 -0400 -------- I am waiting for the Roller bearings in my Maximat Super II to give up the ghost..So that I can figure out how to replace them with tapered bronze bearings..Just like a "Proper"lathe!! Teenut mulligan@advinc.com wrote: > > In article <19990810084525.26640.00000024@ng-fq1.aol.com>, > geneleis@aol.com (GeneLeis) wrote: > > > ... so with big expensive stuff,... > > some serious thought goes into the mounting of these bearings. > > Or even the little stuff. There was a reasonably long thread > recently here about the tapered roller bearings in a milling > machine spindle, and what would be the absolutely best way to > set them up. > > Home shop stuff does not cost as much as the big boy's toys, but > we sure care a lot about it! > > Jim > > Sent via Deja.com http://www.deja.com/ > Share what you know. Learn what you don't. ======== Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking Subject: Re: Roller Bearing Loads? From: Robert Bastow Date: Wed, 11 Aug 1999 00:17:22 -0400 -------- I am waiting for the Roller bearings in my Maximat Super II to give up the ghost..So that I can figure out how to replace them with tapered bronze bearings..Just like a "Proper"lathe!! Teenut mulligan@advinc.com wrote: > > In article <19990810084525.26640.00000024@ng-fq1.aol.com>, > geneleis@aol.com (GeneLeis) wrote: > > > ... so with big expensive stuff,... > > some serious thought goes into the mounting of these bearings. > > Or even the little stuff. There was a reasonably long thread > recently here about the tapered roller bearings in a milling > machine spindle, and what would be the absolutely best way to > set them up. > > Home shop stuff does not cost as much as the big boy's toys, but > we sure care a lot about it! > > Jim > > Sent via Deja.com http://www.deja.com/ > Share what you know. Learn what you don't. ======== Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking Subject: Re: Help! opening LOTS of cans From: Robert Bastow Date: Wed, 11 Aug 1999 00:41:51 -0400 -------- Simple! Mark them "Fragile" and send them UPS!! Teenut Peter Logghe wrote: > > I was approached to help someone open over a million cans, > at a rate of about 20,000 in less than a shift. ======== Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking Subject: Re: Roller Bearing Loads? From: Robert Bastow Date: Wed, 11 Aug 1999 04:41:29 -0400 -------- Hi Tom, Provocative! Moi? It takes a hellaciously precise, (read Expensive!!) rolling bearing to equal the performance of a well designed taper bronze bearing (in the hands of someone that knows how to adjust it properly. The fact that your Monarch is one of the few machines so equiped does nothing to sweeten my mood ;^) Robert tmartin@xtra.co.nz wrote: > > You are in a rather provocative mood, aren't you? > Of course you will revert to a non-geared headstock in > keeping with such "purist" designs won't you? > As I own a Monarch, one of the first to eschew such > pagan ideology, I will await with interest your reversion > to the "Dark Ages" and the subsequent demise of the > precision bearing industry as we know it! (LG) > > Tom > > Robert Bastow wrote: > > > > I am waiting for the Roller bearings in my Maximat Super II to give up the > > ghost..So that I can figure out how to replace them with tapered bronze > > bearings..Just like a "Proper"lathe!! > > > > Teenut > > > > mulligan@advinc.com wrote: > > > > > > In article <19990810084525.26640.00000024@ng-fq1.aol.com>, > > > geneleis@aol.com (GeneLeis) wrote: > > > > > > > ... so with big expensive stuff,... > > > > some serious thought goes into the mounting of these bearings. > > > > > > Or even the little stuff. There was a reasonably long thread > > > recently here about the tapered roller bearings in a milling > > > machine spindle, and what would be the absolutely best way to > > > set them up. > > > > > > Home shop stuff does not cost as much as the big boy's toys, but > > > we sure care a lot about it! > > > > > > Jim > > > > > > Sent via Deja.com http://www.deja.com/ > > > Share what you know. Learn what you don't. ======== Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking Subject: Re: Roller Bearing Loads? From: Robert Bastow Date: Wed, 11 Aug 1999 12:44:45 -0400 -------- Tom, I have no personal experience of the Holbrook but I have had a Smart & Browne that was superb. IMHO the Myford Super 7 has one of the best designed plain bearing headstocks ever..considering its relatively low cost. Interestingly, my recently aquired Deckel FP1 has the same arrangement on both horizontal and vertical spindles. It must be agreed that this is a machine on which no expense was spared (By the manufacturer) The Maximat Super II, is a very nice lathe...but cannot begin to pretend to be in the same class as the Hardinge, Monarch, Holbrook, Rivett etc, class of "Toolroom Lathes" Right now the bearings are in good shape..but I find that, no matter how carefully they are adjusted, I get "bearing chatter"..the characteristic spiral marks of a roller bearing headstock..especially when high speed finishing softer metals like Aluminum or copper. Any attempt to adjust the bearings to a closer running fit, results in over heating at high RPM. I can put up with this for now..having bigger fish to fry at the present moment. However!! The cost of replacement bearings, knowing Blue Ridge etc., will be frightening! Yet I will have no guarantee that the performance will be any different. As I said earlier, the present bearings are in perfect condition. Obviously the problem lies in the design and I CAN change that!! This was what set my mind off in the direction of replacing (someday) the front roller bearings on my Maximat with a properly designed, fully adjustable, conical plain bearing. I plan to replace the inner race with a hardened steel cone and the outer with a plain conical bearing. I may go to a close grained cast iron for this, rather than bronze..to give better load bearing capabilities in the limited length available. The rear bearing, currently a taper roller, will be replaced with an ABEC 7 angular contact, opposed pair. The current lateral adjustment will then allow the front bearing clearances to be set VERY finely. Robert Bastow Robert tmartin@xtra.co.nz wrote: > > Well Robert, > What would you consider to be the "sans-pareil" of > plain-bearing headstock? Would Holbrook be amongst > the contenders? > Tom > > Robert Bastow wrote: > > > > Hi Tom, > > > > Provocative! Moi? > > > > It takes a hellaciously precise, (read Expensive!!) rolling bearing to equal the > > performance of a well designed taper bronze bearing (in the hands of someone > > that knows how to adjust it properly. > > > > The fact that your Monarch is one of the few machines so equiped does nothing to > > sweeten my mood ;^) > > > > Robert > > > > tmartin@xtra.co.nz wrote: > > > > > > You are in a rather provocative mood, aren't you? > > > Of course you will revert to a non-geared headstock in > > > keeping with such "purist" designs won't you? > > > As I own a Monarch, one of the first to eschew such > > > pagan ideology, I will await with interest your reversion > > > to the "Dark Ages" and the subsequent demise of the > > > precision bearing industry as we know it! (LG) > > > > > > Tom > > > > > > Robert Bastow wrote: > > > > > > > > I am waiting for the Roller bearings in my Maximat Super II to give up the > > > > ghost..So that I can figure out how to replace them with tapered bronze > > > > bearings..Just like a "Proper"lathe!! > > > > > > > > Teenut > > > > > > > > mulligan@advinc.com wrote: > > > > > > > > > > In article <19990810084525.26640.00000024@ng-fq1.aol.com>, > > > > > geneleis@aol.com (GeneLeis) wrote: > > > > > > > > > > > ... so with big expensive stuff,... > > > > > > some serious thought goes into the mounting of these bearings. > > > > > > > > > > Or even the little stuff. There was a reasonably long thread > > > > > recently here about the tapered roller bearings in a milling > > > > > machine spindle, and what would be the absolutely best way to > > > > > set them up. > > > > > > > > > > Home shop stuff does not cost as much as the big boy's toys, but > > > > > we sure care a lot about it! > > > > > > > > > > Jim > > > > > > > > > > Sent via Deja.com http://www.deja.com/ > > > > > Share what you know. Learn what you don't. ======== Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking Subject: Re: glue brass to glass From: Robert Bastow Date: Wed, 11 Aug 1999 12:49:12 -0400 -------- Try "Gorilla Glue" That stuff sticks like sh*t to a blanket!! Teenut Don Stauffer wrote: > > There ARE gap filling variants of instant or super glue. I have used it to > glue magnets to glass, and it seems to work fine. > > john clark wrote: > > > hello > > i am making a wimshurst machine and need to fix a bos to the 18 inches > > diameter glass plates,this i have made from brass and is three inches in > > diameter > > the plates will revolve at up to 600 rpm but have little strain except > > for their own weight > > a referance chart indicates an instant glue is the best option but i > > feel somthing with a gap filling property and some flexibility would be > > better. > > I have a fish tank that holds thirty gallons of water,is twenty years > > old and is held together with silicone sealer only at the edges so > > does anyone have any experiance using silicone for glass to brass joints > > and will some sort of primer be required ? > > i would also be interested to hear about wimshurst machines made by > > other contributors to this group > > kind reguards > > > > -- > > john clark > > -- > Don Stauffer in Minneapolis > stauffer@gte.net > http://home1.gte.net/stauffer/ ======== Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking Subject: Re: 3450 Rev/min converter motor From: Robert Bastow Date: Wed, 11 Aug 1999 13:08:01 -0400 -------- DoN. Nichols wrote: The only problem is that it is a > 3275 RPM motor, so it will make a bit more noise as a converter than a > slower one would do. I have just finished building a rotary converter using an almost new 5 HP 3450 Rev/min Motor as the converter. Starting is accomplished by a kit built Cedarberg 3-5HP static converter and start-up is virtually instantaneous. The indicator light for the start capacitor goes out in less than 2 seconds. This converter has no difficulty starting the (Heavily gear loaded) 2 speed motor of my Deckel...a task which the static converter on its own was just not up to. I am experiencing some hard vibration in the converter motor..nothing that I can't live with or cure with a bit of resiliant mounting. Is ths simply the problem inherent in a 3450 converter that you refer to above? Will it cause long term damage to the converter motor? Will "Phase Balancing" with run caps improve the smoothness of running? My learning curve on "Things Electrical" especially phase converters, has reached nose bleed levels recently. My thanks to the group for helping me to get even this far!! Robert Bastow ======== Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking Subject: Re: Roller Bearing Loads? From: Robert Bastow Date: Wed, 11 Aug 1999 21:00:53 -0400 -------- That's exactly what I am talking about! Teenut mulligan@advinc.com wrote: > > In article <37B0FF18.8C88F458@hotmail.com>, > teenutNOSPAM@hotmail.com wrote: > > I am waiting for the Roller bearings in my Maximat Super II to give > up the > > ghost..So that I can figure out how to replace them with tapered > bronze > > bearings..Just like a "Proper"lathe!! > > I have owned a small horizontal milling machine and a pratt & whitney > lathe, both with tapered front bearings. Despite having been abused > to a great extent before I got these machines, the spindles ran > smooth and true at any speed. > > I especially like the ability to adjust the front bearing for play > by snugging the rear locknut. > > Jim > > Sent via Deja.com http://www.deja.com/ > Share what you know. Learn what you don't. ======== Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking Subject: Re: 3450 Rev/min converter motor From: Robert Bastow Date: Wed, 11 Aug 1999 21:04:44 -0400 -------- Always present Grif wrote: > > Does this vibration just occure when under load, or is it always > present? > > > Is ths simply the problem inherent in a 3450 converter that you refer to above? > > Will it cause long term damage to the converter motor? Will "Phase Balancing" > > with run caps improve the smoothness of running? ======== Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking Subject: Re: 3450 Rev/min converter motor From: Robert Bastow Date: Wed, 11 Aug 1999 21:07:46 -0400 -------- I'll try it...when I get hold of some of them they "CERPACITERS" and when I figer out whur to put they!! Teenut Grant Erwin wrote: > > I suggest you try some run caps across both sides of the generated leg; > i.e. if L1 and L2 are the single phase lines, you need a run cap L2-L3 > and one L1-L3. You can experiment, or you can just shove on about 30-50 µF > on each side. > > I run a 7.5 hp idler, and have 60 µF connected as above, each side. Runs > quiet, only gives a mild protest when starting the mill (3 hp) on its > highest speed, or when doing a plug reversal. > > My buddy has a phase converter with no run caps and it sounds LOUD. > I've been after him for years to put on a little run capacitance. > > Grant Erwin > > Robert Bastow wrote: > > > > DoN. Nichols wrote: > > The only problem is that it is a > > > 3275 RPM motor, so it will make a bit more noise as a converter than a > > > slower one would do. > > > > I have just finished building a rotary converter using an almost new 5 HP 3450 > > Rev/min Motor as the converter. Starting is accomplished by a kit built > > Cedarberg 3-5HP static converter and start-up is virtually instantaneous. The > > indicator light for the start capacitor goes out in less than 2 seconds. > > > > This converter has no difficulty starting the (Heavily gear loaded) 2 speed > > motor of my Deckel...a task which the static converter on its own was just not > > up to. > > > > I am experiencing some hard vibration in the converter motor..nothing that I > > can't live with or cure with a bit of resiliant mounting. > > > > Is ths simply the problem inherent in a 3450 converter that you refer to above? > > Will it cause long term damage to the converter motor? Will "Phase Balancing" > > with run caps improve the smoothness of running? > > > > My learning curve on "Things Electrical" especially phase converters, has > > reached nose bleed levels recently. My thanks to the group for helping me to > > get even this far!! > > > > Robert Bastow > . ======== Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking Subject: Re: 3450 Rev/min converter motor From: Robert Bastow Date: Thu, 12 Aug 1999 10:51:43 -0400 -------- Hi Fitch, I guess this is where my ignorance REALLY shows!! I am not too familiar with the jargon and buzz words used by EEs. What do you meen by "connect ACROSS" and "BETWEEN"? Does the first imply connection in parallel and the second, in series? Robert Fitch R. Williams wrote: > > Grant Erwin wrote: > > >I suggest you try some run caps across both sides of the generated leg; > >i.e. if L1 and L2 are the single phase lines, you need a run cap L2-L3 > >and one L1-L3. You can experiment, or you can just shove on about 30-50 ?F > >on each side. > > Robert, > > Just for fun, connect 60uF across the motor terminals where your static > converter starter is connected, 50 uF between the other two lines, and 50 uF > across the input leads. > > Fitch > In So. Cal. > > The FAQ for RCM is: http://w3.uwyo.edu/~metal > Metal Web News at http://www.mindspring.com/~wgray1/ > The "Drop Box" is at http://www.metalworking.com/ ======== Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking Subject: Re: 3450 Rev/min converter motor From: Robert Bastow Date: Thu, 12 Aug 1999 10:57:20 -0400 -------- Oops! Forgot the OTHER question...(does four questions per paragraph rate me as ignorant or just dumb stupid) Across WHICH imput leads? The 220v imput to the static phase converter? Robert Robert Bastow wrote: > > Hi Fitch, > > I guess this is where my ignorance REALLY shows!! I am not too familiar with the > jargon and buzz words used by EEs. > > What do you meen by "connect ACROSS" and "BETWEEN"? > > Does the first imply connection in parallel and the second, in series? > > Robert > > Fitch R. Williams wrote: > > > > Grant Erwin wrote: > > > > >I suggest you try some run caps across both sides of the generated leg; > > >i.e. if L1 and L2 are the single phase lines, you need a run cap L2-L3 > > >and one L1-L3. You can experiment, or you can just shove on about 30-50 ?F > > >on each side. > > > > Robert, > > > > Just for fun, connect 60uF across the motor terminals where your static > > converter starter is connected, 50 uF between the other two lines, and 50 uF > > across the input leads. > > > > Fitch > > In So. Cal. > > > > The FAQ for RCM is: http://w3.uwyo.edu/~metal > > Metal Web News at http://www.mindspring.com/~wgray1/ > > The "Drop Box" is at http://www.metalworking.com/ ======== Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking Subject: Re: Help! opening LOTS of cans From: Robert Bastow Date: Thu, 12 Aug 1999 11:38:43 -0400 -------- This USED to be my field...the automation of processes, assembly,disassembly, etc. (Before I finally realised that it was bottom of the food chain and became a Licensed Securities Broker!!) There is a world of difference between automated handling at 10/20pcs/min and 50/100 pcs a minute. Generally, above about 60pcs/min the process jumps from an INTERMITTENT to a CONTINUOUS process and the costs jump by an order of magnitude. I cannot design a machine for you..you are the "expert" in that you have direct experience of what works and what doesn't work. I can only help you design your own machine. ("Teach a man to fish"!!) Firstly, from your trial and error, determine which process works BEST, most RELIABLY, and (Lastly) the FASTEST for EACH STEP of the job. Then, understand that, to achieve your objective of one piece per second, these operations must be going one SIMULTANEOUSLY, and most probably on SEVERAL cans at a time. Special rotary "continuous processing" machine stations are available..but you don't even want to know how much a basic, untooled, station costs!! Your best bet is to use a linear, intermittent BATCH process. Best achieved by a pocketed conveyor with a geneva type drive or, cheaper, a linear push system that transfers a batch of say ten cans, progressively from station to station. Let us say that you have four operating stations. Open can, remove foil, remove spoon, dump contents. Let us imagine you have a ten second cycle. Each operation is being carried out on say ten cans at a time and a completed batch is coming off the end every six seconds. There you have 60 pcs/min BUT with TEN seconds to achieve EACH step of the process rather than ONE second to complete ALL FOUR!! I hope I am making sense so far! Your next step, is to go to a used, food or pharmaceutical machinery dealer and explain your problem, time line and BUDGET to him. I say "Used equipment" because you don't have a PRAYER of building this stuff yourself within any reasonable time or budget. Nor do you want to try and reinvent the wheel!! The dealer will be able to point you to a few possible alternatives..he is doing this stuff all day, every day remember..so use his experience. What you will probably be able to do, given the short term requirement and basic "cleanliness" of your operation, is to arrange a lease or "sell back" on the equipment. This of course, provided that you don't butcher it too much in adapting it to your needs. That is about the best I can do to help from a distance. However, If you would like to fly me out there and pay my professional fees (you understand if I ask for cash in advance!) I will be delighted to design and build the whole bloody issue!! ;^) Robert Bastow ======== Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking Subject: Re: Help! opening LOTS of cans From: Robert Bastow Date: Thu, 12 Aug 1999 11:55:42 -0400 -------- Let me rewrite this paragraph to eliminate the brain farts!! Let us imagine you have a ten can BATCH with a ten second cycle. Six times per minute you are completing ten cans = 60 cans/min. But now you have TEN seconds per operation, per can rather than trying to do ALL four operations one each can in one second. Robert Bastow wrote: > > Let us imagine you have a ten second cycle. Each > operation is being carried out on say ten cans at a time and a completed batch > is coming off the end every six seconds. There you have 60 pcs/min BUT with TEN > seconds to achieve EACH step of the process rather than ONE second to complete > ALL FOUR!! > > I hope I am making sense so far! ======== Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking Subject: Re: Small lathe source From: Robert Bastow Date: Thu, 12 Aug 1999 14:03:31 -0400 -------- Failing which...have it shipped to a friend or associate in the USA. If this is close to the border..go fetch it. If not, have them ship it to you. Maybe someone on the list can help...I would but I don't think you want to drive to..Or pay shipping charges from..Atlanta! Teenut Darcy Roberts wrote: > > Greetings all: > > I've noticed that the HF 7x10 lathe is currently > selling around $329. HF won't ship to Canada last > time I checked. Busy Bee has a similar lathe for > about CDN$899 (less when on sale). > > Are there any retail stores in upstate New York that > sell a similar lathe? (I am near the border south > of Ottawa). Even with exchange, it is still half > price in the US. > > Thanks, > Darcy Roberts. > H T Watt and Associates Ltd. > Contract Electronic Design & Development Services. ======== Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking Subject: Re: 3450 Rev/min converter motor From: Robert Bastow Date: Thu, 12 Aug 1999 22:44:25 -0400 -------- Ok, getting closer. Forgive me if I press the point..but we are dealing with line voltages here (I HATE electricity..I don't trust anything I can't SEE!!) I think I'm wi